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I started talking about this in Stevebo's meet and greet thread, but decided to separate it out and not further hijack his thread, LOL. It's starting to look like I'll need some help at any rate. So I picked it up Sunday from the second owner who bought it nearly new around '66 and it had been sitting. I tried to start it but it had a hung valve. I put some ATF down the cylinder and lucked out, the valve unstuck by itself. I've gotten it to run a few seconds at a time on ether, but the fuel system is all gunked up, I've got the tank off to start cleaning it up, and there was a lot of gunk in the carb bowl. The pics aren't great, it's still in my covered stock trailer hiding from the other resident at my house. It's sometimes prudent to introduce new family members slowly. Here's the tractor: My first conundrum is the black "fur" in the gas tank. The pic below is of that same fur in the fuel strainer bowl. Is there an easy way to clean that? Will anything dissolve it? I scraped at it a little and it's soft for the most part. Thanks.

Well @ACcuz and his wife gave me a little gift last night . She runs a small business and she made me up this awesome travel mug to enjoy a nice hot/cold beverage . ACcuz says his cup has held ice for 24 hours + , and his coffee stays warm for hours and hours . Can't wait to try it out !

Lawn Mower Storage Mistakes Exposed! View this email in your browser Lawn Mower Storage Mistakes Exposed! Do you want your mower to start back up after several months in hibernation? Then properly preparing it for winter storage is crucial. Mistake #1: Not Draining Old Fuel Get that gas out! Drain the tank & fuel bowl, so the gas won't deteriorate, gum-up, and damage the fuel system & carburetor. See more Storage Mistakes to Avoid » Fuel Stabilizers Oil Oil/Fuel Extractor Storage Covers Share Tweet Forward Shop for Parts | Shop for Equipment | DIY | Ordering Information | Check Order Status | Find Us | DisclaimerCopyright © 2016 Jacks Small Engines, 1745 Jarrettsville Road, Jarrettsville, MD 21084, All rights reserved. You are receiving this email because you opted in at our website For order related questions please contact our customer support team at orders@jackssmallengines.com. Please do not reply to this e-mail.Thank You! unsubscribe from this list update preferences F.Y.I. This is a free monthly newsletter, with very timely suggestions (just click: 'Storage Mistakes to Avoid >>' to open the entire newsletter), it is full of informative and interesting articles each month, almost like a magazine. If you have ordered from Jacks in the past, you may already be getting it, otherwise, just eMail and ask to be put on their mailing, you will only get this newsletter, no other junk mailings. Their forum responses are also very interesting, I'm always getting lots of new ideas from this. Glen This is a really great newsletter, for all brands, great timely tips & suggestions, plus viewers comments –– not a heavy 'buy our products' thing; you may already get it if you have ordered from them, or just contact and ask to be added. Their site is packed with ideas & info.

Hey guys, I've started the restoration of my 1968 Raider 10. I originally found that they didn't make a Raider 10 in 1968 but through discussion with the experts here, we determined that my tractor was a 1968 that was badged a Raider 10 with the 10 HP Tecumseh. Here's the starting point picture. It was in better shape a few years ago but it was a slight casualty to hurricane Sandy. Nothing is rusted through, thankfully. It's unfortunate that it happened and I never expected it to get wet where it was. We were at least a 1/4 mile from the water -- probably more -- but, I came to work (where it was stored) the following day and we had a garbage dumpster from the business across the street and a boat dock in out parking lot...It was insane and very unexpected. Anyway, I've disassembled a bunch of it and will e-tank the crap out of everything.

The best thing to do is drop it off on Saturday AM in my barn and never come back.... we will take real good care of her... lol

Ok, im new to Wheel Horses and I'm in love - I picked up a D-200 a few months ago for super cheap ($150) and sold it a week later when someone offered me a pile of cash. I regret selling it but after some research I found a 520h for sale (pic attached). It has 800 hours, looks like it has been taken care of, and comes with a box blade and wheel weights and a 42 inch deck. I'm told that it overheats a bit after 30 minutes but I'm thinking there is a fix for that. My questions are what all attachments will this thing take and is it really the beast that I've heard that it is? I know its not a D-200 but I want to be able to hook up about anything and be able to work. I wouldn't be working it daily - mostly just weekend stuff on my 8 acres. A little bit of everything, plowing, discing, tilling, grading, and mowing - thanks in advance for the advice!

Found this and just thought I'd share.. might be something a guy knows already but I thought it was interesting read...... Kohler made five different cylinder heads for the 10hp, 12hp and 14hp K-series and Magnum engines through the years - The First Generation Head - This cylinder head was manufactured by Kohler from the early 1960s until 1971 and was available only on engine model K241 (10hp) before engine serial number 3184999. It has a heart-shaped and wedge-contoured combustion chamber and is now known as the high compression, "LP head." The spark plug is centered in the combustion chamber. This particular head was originally made for and came on the very early K241 (10hp) engines. It'll also work on the Magnum engine model M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp) engines and the early K321/M14 (14hp) engines with a 1-1/8" exhaust valve. But being the later 14hp engines have a larger exhaust valve (1-3/8"), the exhaust area in the head would need to be machined out for use with the bigger exhaust valve. And because of its high compression ratios, if this head is used on a 12 or 14hp engine, Premium, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels must be used, or the engine will overheat and wear out too soon. The compression ratio is 7:1 when used on a 10hp and 8.6:1 when used on a 12hp. If this head was used on a 14hp, it would yield a 9:1 compression ratio. And LP heads did not come on nor will they fit the 16hp (K341) engines. This head requires 2-1/2" long bolts. And due to early technology and design of the combustion chamber, the majority of the expanding gases or combustion pressure is placed over the valves instead of the piston, resulting in lower engine performance. The number embossed on this head is 235461. Cub Cadet part # is IH-385303-R1. It is no longer available from Kohler or new from any other source. NOTE: This particular head was originally designed many years ago ONLY for the 10hp (K-241) engine because these engines have low compression due to their small bore and short stroke. The only reason anyone would put one of these heads on a bigger engine today is to attempt to get more power out of it. Also, people found that the LP head worked better than a newer low compression head on an engine burning liquefied petroleum (propane) gas. LP gas is a high octane fuel (about 110-115 octane). Therefore, it burns more thoroughly and produces more power in a high compression engine. That's why these heads are known today as the "LP head." Also, the LP head, when used on any size engine including the 10hp, have been known to cause detonation (pinging) nowadays even with 93 octane Premium gas. That's why Kohler stopped making them. They replaced them with the "dished" head. Ê However, high octane race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels can be safely used with the LP head. If you want to use an LP head on your engine, the genuine OEM Kohler LP head is no longer available from Kohler or any other source. They haven't been made since the early 1960s. They were discontinued when the 12hp engine came into production, because this engine require a lower compression head. So if you need an LP head, remember, they came only on the very early 10hp engines equipped with the starter/generator and no indention on the side of the block for the upper mount gear starter. But if you can't find an LP head at all or for a reasonable price, what you could do is cast an aluminum head just like the LP head. An LP head can be CNC-machined from billet aluminum, but if you prefer a head that's close to the genuine product, first, you'll need a good LP head to use as a mold or pattern. The Second Generation Head - The second type of head manufactured by Kohler has a heart-shaped and a depression area in the combustion chamber. It has improved technology over the earlier LP head. Kohler engineers made the depression area for a special reason and it helps engines to produce more torque and horsepower than the LP head at any RPM. This head was installed on Kohler's 10hp and 12hp engines, before the 14hp engine went into production. It's a good head. It flows good and with increased compression. The "hump" directs the incoming air/fuel toward the piston at higher RPM. Unlike the sought-after, but misunderstood LP head, the depression area places the majority of the expanding gases or combustion pressure over the piston instead over of the valves, which produces more engine power and torque. The spark plug is centered in the combustion chamber. It was lowered in compression and was made for both the 10hp and 12hp engines, but would not work on the 14hp engine because of its' larger exhaust valve (it was manufactured before the 14hp engine appeared) unless reduce the size of the exhaust valve on a 14hp to a 1.125" (same as a 10 & 12hp) This can be accomplished by installing a valve seat insert in the block for the smaller valve. By the way - this type of head is not officially a "high compression head" because it has a depression in the combustion chamber. It is however, 'slightly higher' in compression than the newer style heads, but it's not a "high compression" or even an "LP head," but the next best to it. The compression ratio is 5.4:1 when used on a 10hp and 6.6:1 when used on a 12hp. If this head was used on a14hp (the exhaust circumference area would need to be machined larger), it would yield a 7:1 compression ratio. By the way - Kohler no longer makes this type of head either. These early heads require 2-1/2" long bolts (OEM Kohler part # 236546-S; number embossed on head is 235461, but not an LP head), and the later ones require 1-1/2" long bolts (OEM Kohler part # 236675-S). Also, the reason Kohler redesigned the head with the low bosses for shorter head bolts is so more air flow can past over the head bolts to better efficiently cool the other parts of the head.

It came with a deck, snow thrower, a rear blade (I think that's what it is - no numbers) and here are the pics. The deck is in really good shape -- no rust through anywhere and it's very solid. All of the wheels are there and work. The snowblower/thrower is in great shape as well. A little bit of surface rust but that's it. The cable is there and properly installed so the chute works great. The blade is a rear blade, I think. There are no numbers on it so I can't really tell. Any ideas? Just a really small front blade? I think I'm missing the mount for it. It looks like it is a manual angle adjustment type of thing. Thanks! Sounds good! I'll be sure to record this resto as best I can. I'm going to clean it up and see what the deck looks like. I think I probably will, though. I'm going to be using the electrolysis tank on the rear fender this week. I'll have before and after pics.

30 inch snow day last year 520 with front and rear wheel weights and rubber chains kept going and going

I retired early in 2013. My boss sold the car dealership to a company that didn't want any old people. I said goodbye, good luck and don't bother to call me and try and hire me back when the young guys you hire for peanuts with no experience can't fix anything....... They called and I hung up on them! Enjoy retirement! I sure am!

I have nothing but awe for the beautifully restored or maintained machine.However they aren't in my price range so I drag home WHs that cost $500.00 or less.That price range keeps me out of the doghouse with the missus.This is the newest companion to the big ugly and hoodless 520. The seller said it ran and he got it started.No smoke or knocks but badly surging and it wouldn't stay running unless hooked to his truck battery. We dropped the deck and winched it onto my truck,tied it down and then loaded on the deck.Oh well I love the challenge.JAinVA

There is a way . I did a post in July 2015 , I think it was called Rear hitch something , I used an electric actuator on the rear and it works great. There are pictures included and comment from others.

Hi. I just bought (but haven't brought to my house yet) a 1999 314-8 with a 48" side discharge mower deck and 650 hours on it. I've been to the files section and downloaded lots of manuals. This is a great site and helped educate me the last few days when making my purchasing decision. I look forward to contributing throughout my ownership! Rodd

I put a 14 Kohler on a 1142. It was however a K series which are easy for me to wire. The electric is my weak point. I didnt think the 10 Kohler Magnum had a regulator. I thought there were only diodes to control the voltage. My 87 was like that anyway. And it overcharged bad. The 10 will go right on that tractor with no mods. except wiring and throttle and choke routeing. Good Luck! And welcome to the forum!

If you want to put those hubcaps back on without scratching the rims, a trick I found is to remove the clips on the hubcaps and run a strip of plastic door edge protector around the sharp edge of the hubcap and then install. The door edge guard will hold it in place just fine and not scratch the wheels. The plastic door edge makes a nice tight fit.

The PTO parts are really part of the mower deck. 5-1422 5-1482 used this set up. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/185-mower-rotary-42in-sd-1969-5-1422-om-ipl-snpdf/

Not at all Glenn ...you know how we like pics! Lots of perfectly usable parts in there I see. Right on AC

Wow Glenn I just found this thread! Looks like you found a pretty good treasure trove! I don't think any of the prices you stated sound out of line. Want me to drive to jersey and give you some encouragement? I'd definitely take that commando 8 I love those 8hp short frames. Lawn Ranger's are nice to have if you can get the darn tecky's to run right (I don't have a lot of luck with that). I'm encouraging you to pick some of these out and give them a good home! Mike

Thanks for everyone's feedback !!! I'm going to keep my eyes open for a plow. Strange as it sounds, most of our snow seems to come over night. I'm an early morning riser, so I'm usually out shoveling around 5:30 - 6:00am. I enjoy the solitude of working before anyone else in the neighborhood wakes. The thought of having snow from a blower plastering my face at this hour worries me that it will change the pleasure of the experience. Since I don't have a problem with space to push the snow, the fact that I may find other uses for a plow, it has fewer moving parts to maintain, and that it will not "damage" the transmission of the tractor has me leaning this way. Looking around, it also appears that a plow is a little bit lighter on the pocketbook.

11-8-1895 German scientist discovers X-rays On this day in 1895, physicist Wilhelm Conrad Rontgen (1845-1923) becomes the first person to observe X-rays, a significant scientific advancement that would ultimately benefit a variety of fields, most of all medicine, by making the invisible visible. Rontgen’s discovery occurred accidentally in his Wurzburg, Germany, lab, where he was testing whether cathode rays could pass through glass when he noticed a glow coming from a nearby chemically coated screen. He dubbed the rays that caused this glow X-rays because of their unknown nature. X-rays are electromagnetic energy waves that act similarly to light rays, but at wavelengths approximately 1,000 times shorter than those of light. Rontgen holed up in his lab and conducted a series of experiments to better understand his discovery. He learned that X-rays penetrate human flesh but not higher-density substances such as bone or lead and that they can be photographed. Rontgen’s discovery was labeled a medical miracle and X-rays soon became an important diagnostic tool in medicine, allowing doctors to see inside the human body for the first time without surgery. In 1897, X-rays were first used on a military battlefield, during the Balkan War, to find bullets and broken bones inside patients. Scientists were quick to realize the benefits of X-rays, but slower to comprehend the harmful effects of radiation. Initially, it was believed X-rays passed through flesh as harmlessly as light. However, within several years, researchers began to report cases of burns and skin damage after exposure to X-rays, and in 1904, Thomas Edison’s assistant, Clarence Dally, who had worked extensively with X-rays, died of skin cancer. Dally’s death caused some scientists to begin taking the risks of radiation more seriously, but they still weren’t fully understood. During the 1930s, 40s and 50s, in fact, many American shoe stores featured shoe-fitting fluoroscopes that used to X-rays to enable customers to see the bones in their feet; it wasn’t until the 1950s that this practice was determined to be risky business. Wilhelm Rontgen received numerous accolades for his work, including the first Nobel Prize in physics in 1901, yet he remained modest and never tried to patent his discovery. Today, X-ray technology is widely used in medicine, material analysis and devices such as airport security scanners.

Congrats to you!! I am still in my early 40's so I have to get to 57 and I can retire. I feel my age catching up to me now in my 40's I hope when I am ready to retire I still have the energy to do everything I want to do. Enjoy it and good luck finding a c160

The steering shaft looks like it was slightly extended. May have been a big boy on that baby to fit behind the wheel.

Tough to pick one or the other. I have a plow on one tractor and a blower on a second one. The plow will work most of the time but if we really get dumped on, I need them both to get the snow back off the drive.

Now my you have 2 so basically you have answered your own question get a plow for your 10hp and a tall chute snow thrower(single stage) or blower(2stage)for the 16hp then you have the best of both worlds, this year I have 3 520s 1 with a 2stage and cab and yes a cab is a blessing when running a snow thrower/blower ,1 will have the tall chute single and the other will wear the plow, then break downs and such won't matter ,grab another finish the job then fix the problem afterwards,Jeff

Is ACcuz going to become a vendor? Could probably sell out at the Big Show.

Predator 22hp in member's Bowtieguy's C-175.

Mine is still working great Predator 22 hp in a C-175

I look at it like that saying about jeeps. "It's a wheelhorse thing, you wouldnt understand"

So I just bought a 97 520-H with 235 original hours. The fuel gauge doesn't work on its own. If you pick the sender up with a magnet, it works. But falls back down again. Is there anything that could be missing to help hold the float up? Any help would be great. Thanks

Since the show this year i decided i was going to slowly get out of this Hobbie, even sold off most of what i had,then this happens, O' well i tried picked up a few more today with another load to pick up in two weeks. Two B-80's. 854 and a 754. Three wagons, k-91 two midgrader blades. In two week will be bring home a gt-14 with 3 point hitch, lawn ranger, 704 and 3 snow plows one for a rj The 854 has inside wheel weights front and rear, would they be wheel horse Thanks

Picked up 3 blades this weekend, 1 good 48 in. snow / dirt blade, 1 42 in. blade cut up frame made for something? and a nice center grader blade for one of my 520H's.

Terry, that's the one with the red Engine? Pull start electric start Combo? Just a fwiw, I haven't been back there yet. Biding my time. I have to run out by Scranton, PA. And pick up my xi 2 stage and cab. Just putting that trip together is a nightmare, I do note, everyone has picked out something in that little barn herd. Glenn

and like Paul mentioned too, check it out first. Might as well pull it off and have a good look as that's what you'll need to do anyway if changing it. Not being sure what that "moan" is, could it be the starter just spinning and not engaging the bendix gear into the flywheel ring gear? A broken spring will cause that and probably much cheaper than a new starter is. Probably best to investigate best you can first but to answer your question, yes a new starter is plug and play.

Here ya go Mike ...these are pretty popular now, can get them over the 'net but a lot of folks makes them.. I guess they are easy to make with any picture you have. Not a nice travel mug like AC man's but what the heck!

The one in the link isn't like the first picture. That's a special 953/1054 thing.... which is it's own animal. As for the first picture....It doesn't really have it's own name, it was just the belt tensioner for late 60s tractors. If anything, I'd call it the cam belt tensioner, because parts of it are the "cam roller bushing", "cam plate" and "cam arm assembly". Pretty sure I've got a spare deck with one on it if you get going on the project.

Take one cylinder apart first and take it with you to ensure you get the correct o-rings. I have no idea on the history of mine so they may have been turned or not be the exact same sizes as yours. I'd locate the snap ring pliers first...so you can stop and get another set if you can't find them

or use clothes pins

I just like gauges, switches, lights and levers

LOL, Glenn I've got an empty garage here I'll rent you. Then your Wheel Horse collection will be "Nationwide" !

I forgot the amount of effort I put into this a few years ago. I bought a cheap $15 chinese tacho and made a new scale and re-calibrated it. Maybe I should go into business

They all look good, it's the beauty underneath. Glenn

Eric, Yes that is an engine off of a Sears SS16 garden tractor.It is a BF which is the 3 1/8" bore engine.You have a good eye.As I stated in a previous post the machine had a dead battery and once taken off the jumper battery would not stay running.It could be the stator or the regulator but the wiring is butchered so who knows.The engine will not stay on this 520.I have a 16 Kohler engine I use to test the transaxle and hydraulics.If this engine is any good it will be used on another WH.I plan on putting a fresh P220 Onan on this beast.

is that a BFMS onan. if so I believe it's only 16 hp. motor looks like it came off a sears. I traded for a 416-H that had a motor like that on. prblem with mine was that it was never set up right to charge correctly. I eventually swapped it out for a P216. I used the tractor for years before upgrading to a 520. wish i wouldn't have sold it, it was a good tractor. good luck with it eric j

if you can only have one its the plow all the way,as stated you cant use the blower for anything but snow,but the blade can and does get many other uses,

love rubber tire chains not one traction works for everyone

I couldn't find any so made my own, they connect to the stator and then mount nicely on the dash. i did a thread somewhere

JA..."save a Horse of course" great score ! ...even my wife commented on how my 520H would look with just a little work . My jaw hit the floor ! Usually it's just. witch leads to then I have to get her something to make things all better ...

Sounds like you need help. You have an addiction. Best cure is to bring these up to Missouri, where we all know is where recovery starts. You can get help for your addiction. Rehab here is free of charge, but you have to relinquish those items you posted about.

Rustoleum is good. I used Krylon on my 500 Special. I like the way it sprays a bit better. I went with white on this one. You may want to use a beige or ivory.

:dunno: I got more pics today!! And to answer some ?'s It will be hydraulic cylinders powered by the axle pump. I am going to use 12V hydraulic control valves and momentary switches to control the blade. More on this later on. As for the welds, most look great, but some don't. I should take my time more, but that's nice about steel, I can grind out the bird turds and redo it wright! I try to make them nice where they are seen. Ok for the pics This is the mount for the blade after finishing up the fab work. And with some paint on it Hydraulic cylinders installed, and cutting (wear) plates. And a tip I got from Nick's v blade about sidewalk cracks, the nose has a ramp to prevent me from kissing my XXX's on the wheel when I hit a crack or raised piece of cement. The springs installed I couldn't resist to install it on the tractor to see what it looked like Know I'm waiting for a shipment of fittings and hoses from surplus center. Should be here Wed. or Thur I hope! The next fun part is getting to the return line for the lift valve on the 417A. I need to tie into it for the 2 new valves, and run a new line to the filter. The hoses will have disconnects and a on-off switch under the hood so the valves will not operate when the blade is off. Trying to see what other implements I can make that could use the hydraulic ports that will be up front. Still more to come............