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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/25/2016 in Posts
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12 pointsFound some ag tires and rims at a old gas tractor show. I blasted and painted the rims and mounted them on this little guy. I kinda like the look. I'm gonna need a new place to house it though because she will no longer fit through the shed door.
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11 points
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6 pointsSaw this at a new job today. It needs a hug... I may end up trying to buy it before I leave... I think I saw a deck in the weeds, and possibly a rear blade.
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6 pointsGuys, I finally was fortunate enough to meet and spend time with19Richie66. He is an all around terrific guy and I encourage everyone here to introduce yourselves to him at the Big Show next year if you have not already met him. Richie is hoping to attend his first Big Show, and I sure hope he can make it happen. We did some horse trading and with the help of Richie's Son, hauled stuff off of Richie's trailer and into my shop and Wheel Horse rolling chassis storage building. Then hauled stuff out of my storage building and Wheel Horse Barn and into his trailer. Richie ended up with a complete rear end and hydro pump and tach and vacuum gauge from a 520H roller I had. Also my old 417Hydro rolling chassis that was in the storage building, and the KT17 series 2 engine that was being stored in the Wheel Horse barn. And maybe some other stuff that I can't remember at this time. I happily ended up with a 1989 312-8 that has a fine running Magnum 12. The tractor needs a fender pan, seat, clutch return spring, and some TLC to be a usable working tractor. Buts that's no problem as I should have everything needed right here in stock. The tractor came with a set of Firestone AG's which I've already removed to put on John Robert (my K powered 416-8). The bonus to this 312-8 is it has a stack exhaust complete with a rain cap. Next cool thing I got from Richie was a complete running 10hp K engine mounted on a shaker plate. This engine has a little stack muffler with a rain cap that I may put on the 701. That should make it look even more like a miniature farm tractor. I have a Blackhood roller that needs a shaker plate engine. Then a complete but at the present time nonworking 8 speed transmission that can be repaired or used for parts. We had to part company much too soon, but Richie had to get back home to Florida. Here is a few pics of the things I ended up with.
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5 pointsFirst time I have had the stable out for some exercise and a photo shoot.They may not be to pretty but they sure work hard. Hope this satisfies the cries for more pictures.JAinVA
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5 pointsWell, I made enough progress to warrant a few pic. I cut the bends off the 105 rocker plate to make a solid engine mounting plate for the 321. I had to shim the plate up 1/2" to get the dropped pan to clear the steering rod extension tube. Got the steering geometry worked out and the engine installed. And got some painting finished. Still have to work out the clutch and throttle linkage. and a lot of body work on the hood and seat/fender pan. Got the snow movers ready and snapped a pic for size reference.
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5 points
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5 points1980-1984 C-165 Automatic and C-145 Automatic are the only tractors that fit those specific requirements. However, if you are willing to look at the Kohler Magnums which were essentially the same as a K series but had a magneto ignition. That opens up your scope to include 1990 and newer 312-H and 314-H but some feel these engines are a BIT under powered running a Hydro with a big mower deck or snow blower. Also there are koher twins if you dont want to go Onan, like the C-175 Auto, 417-A, 418-A, 418-C. But in reality, the Onans are just fine for many people (and lots of people LOVE them!) They sound really cool, are VERY smooth running and have quite a bit of power. That will expand your search to all the newer 416-H's and 520-H's as well (of which there are very many of these around!) I don't know if you have a specific reason to be going hydro, but most attachments are not unreasonable to use a hand-lift with (and some are even preferred, like mid-mount grader blade). The 8 speeds are just about bullet proof and for ground engaging work cant be beat. The hydros are smoother for cutting grass and (for me) plowing snow especially when converted to foot pedal control. That will expand your search immensely!
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5 pointsI don't know what kind of cast iron the Kohlers on those old 953's are made of but 953Nut recently brought one home that looked like it had been salvaged from the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean. He put a battery and gas in it and the thing started right up! Amazing
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4 pointsThere are 2 bolts in the top of the trans that hold the lift cable tube on. Take one of those out and it will vent there.
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4 pointsSundstrands all very durable and garden tractor manufacturers started using them over 50 years ago. Most are still in original condition. They are very strong units. The Magnums were starting to be phased out in the late 80s and early 90s. Most manufacturers have already started using the Kohler Command by that time. Toro was a bit behind in putting the Commands in their tractors. Nothing wrong with either the Magnum or the Command as both are Kohler's commercial grade engines. Onan is also a commercial grade engine and are built to last. Parts, though are a bit pricey.
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4 pointsThe brake will slow it down but all of mine will turn if nothing is attached. It will stop when you attach the deck
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3 pointsFuses are a good thing, lots of older didn't have them and should have. Presuming you have a battery ignition system with points and a coil the following simple diagram should be helpful. The wire sizes are not Gospel, if you want to use a larger size (smaller number wire gauge) that is fine. The second and third are for reference for other systems.
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3 points
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3 pointsYes it was very nice to meet finally. You are a good man! Always nice to put a face with a name. Too bad I could only stay so long. I would have talked tractors and stuff all day. Glad you got the 312 fired up and was satisfied with it. I hope to get the 417 washed down and put back together here soon. As for the firewater, I didn't get to witness it's existence but did hear tales of it's power. Maybe I will witness that next year. The boom sprayer sounds like a good idea. Here is a picture of my load going home. Who says the beverly hillbillies are dead?
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3 pointsAt least in my environment, near the Canadian border, both blade AND blower are required for snow removal! Blade will handle light storms and blade will cleanup after the blower moves the heavy snows. Point is that I most always use the blade for final cleanup! Wouldn't be without it! Otherwise the little bit that the blower leaves builds up, partially melts and refreezes and later turns into ice and causes me to fall and brake my ankle... really! So up here I like to try to scrape the drive clean and hope some sun comes through to "burn" off the remainder so I can start with a completely bare driveway again! I'm so serious about this (broken ankle!) that I also intend to add a Sweepster! But blower and blade is a very nice combo until then! Thanks for sharing!
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2 pointsPicked up this 58 RJ today! It has the shower head and the original heat shield and reel mower belt guard. Came with a deck, a tub cart, and a snowplow. Will get better pics later!
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2 pointsI mounted this loader on one of my 520H's, it's a Sears Smipson made in Canada. They are a very good loader. I will post more pics later on how I hooked it up. The rims are altered , made extra wide.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsThanks ACman, I'm glad to have helped get you started into a great hobby. My shop also serves as my hideout, my get away. I get a lot of satisfaction out of being able to do so many different things right here at home. It's also pretty amazing what a guy can teach himself to do with the right tools at hand. Maybe I will posts in the new thread one day with a few pics of the shop.
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2 points
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2 pointsWhile I am glad to see a C-105 Black Hood gave it's life for a fellow WH, very typical of the breed I might add, my C-105 grieves for it's lost cousin... VERY nice build, by the way...
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsHeh Guys -- Be careful with the HCl (hydrochloric acid) -- Besides being corrosive/burning, HCl like all of those other acids is generating hydrogen gas (which is explosive in the presence of an ignition source) when they remove the rust -- With the slow rust removal (i.e. vinegar, phosphoric acid) the hydrogen is getting time to disperse into the air -- With the HCl and a closed up tank you could build up a significant amount of gas which would explode with a spark/fire (i.e. you are making a bomb) -- So the biggest watch out would be to use the HCl in the absence of ignition sources and vent the tank often (or don't close the tank) when using HCl
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2 pointsAny engine, old or new, can backfire if not properly idled down for a minute or so after hard use. I get on my wife and kids for that all the time.
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2 pointsSince this is turning into a study of tractors, I thought that I would add a few things. I have never owned a Sundstrand (yet!) but have a few Hydro tractors. Eaton only manufactured the transmission which was then installed on the three different transaxles made by Wheel Horse/Toro. Tractors with an -A (but not all) normally used the 700 series transaxle with a manual lift. Onan and Kohler engines were used. Tractors with a -H did use the 1100 series transaxle with hydraulic lift capability. Onan and Kohler engines were used. These can be plumbed to eliminate the lift if necessary. It would be best to take a chassis with a manual lift and install the 1100 if a manual lift was desired. The 5xi series all used the Eaton 11 with a re-designed 1100 transaxle. Kohler, Kawasaki, and Daihatsu engines were used. This transaxle added Hi/Lo gears as well as a neutral position along with hydraulic lift and hydraulic power steering on three of the five models. Regarding the 520-H gathering grass clippings while mowing, my 523Dxi with the water-cooled Daihatsu diesel does the same thing. But there are the three screens below the dash plus a removable fine mesh screen (last photo) in front of the radiator. My Kohler-engined 5xi don't have the same problem due to moving less air for cooling.
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2 pointsI'm curious as to why you think this is a problem? On these tractors the hydro is not like a pressure washer, when you are idling in neutral they are running the fluid through the hoses and filter at a fairly low pressure (30-90psi). The fan keeps the motor/pump cool and everything is just circulating unimpeded. They are designed to work or idle all day long, so you should be good to go, don't worry about letting a hydrostat idle.
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2 pointsI had quite a collection of different models, over 30, and started selling them a year or so ago. I sold most of what I had collected except a couple RL's, a couple suburban's, c-120, 520-H, 856 and a 418-A. Know I have my complete workshop back and don't have to move anything to work on a project. I miss some of them, but it sure is nice to work on something without doing a bunch of extra work to get at a tool.
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2 pointsGot the power washer together this weekend and was able to clean up the 520h moderately. Can definitely see the engine and frame better. Was able to get a better look at the engine. Unfortunately when I was taking off the RH side shroud the bolts were brittle and I broke them off in the cylinder head. Contacted Boomer again. Hes sending a Head and the bokts along with a small gasket kit for the heads, intake and exhaust manifolds. Also got the oil filter air seal which I didnt have, a new (used) tested stator and newer starter drice kit in the mail from Boomer as well and he was even kind enough to send the starter repair manual with it. Got that installed in the starter after cleaning it all up. Brushed armature and all. Photos.
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2 pointsOh yes! I uploaded some a year or so ago and Richard/953Nut commented but then I couldn't find them recently so I uploaded more in the Stevebo Meet and & Greet thread. Rough, sad and only a true Wheel Horse follower could appreciate her finer qualities. Alas I let her go to a better life, I'm afraid only her organs will be brought to life again... If only I had known her many years ago...
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2 points
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2 pointsUsed to do 2 2.2 turbos a day along with countless head gaskets, cams, wristpins. We had 2 big binders chuck full with all the service bulletins just with the ones trying to get the Horizon's to run smoothly cold! The absolute best were the 2.6 Mitsujunki's. You had to install a heat shield under the carb to keep it from vapor locking in the summer month's and then remove it when it got cold to keep the carb from icing! You haven't lived until you worked on Renaults though. People say "Why don't you work on cars anymore" and I answer "RENAULT!"
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1 pointTwo years of Wheel Horse fun ... chasing parts ... chasing horses ... obsessively checking CL for implements ... watching YouTube video's ... The, day, has, arrived. Presenting, (drum roll please) my first furrow. I now own a garden tractor instead of a garden lawn mower. Don't laugh! Practice will make perfect one day!
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1 pointThe bellcrank angle should look about like this one if the proper belt is installed and the roll pin is intact.
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1 pointBigger hammer? Oxy/Acet torch? Just get after it with your hammer and chisel and spread the split area. You mean to remove it, repaint and reinstall? I've missed something?
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1 point10-25-1960 First mass produced electronic wristwatch Bulova's Accutron goes on sale ACCUTRON stands for “ACCUracy through ElecTRONic”. The world’s first electronic watch functions with a tuning fork; a small fork-shaped piece that until then had only been used in music. Engineer Max Hetzel developed its transistor movement, which was able to achieve an unprecedented precision of a minute per month. This model brought fame and success to Bulova and the piece was even worn by American astronauts when they travelled to the Moon.
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1 pointYes sir. I paid $23 shipped for mine. Slapped it on after it was done drying off. Thanks for mentioning it though.
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1 point
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1 pointMy 1951 Case VAC does the same thing if I shut her down after right after I finish mowing. Let her idle for a couple of minutes or drive slowly back to the barn no problem.
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1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointNow there there is one cool Good Ole Boy. We learned a funny thing when we took our Lemon Beagle Emma out on our boat few yrs. ago. My son was getting into the tube to be pulled around and Emma started hootin and hollerin as only a Beagle can do. We were all like what the heck is her problem? When she wouldn't stop I just picked her up and tossed her in the tube with my son and it all stopped. you could see the smile on her face. We learned that day that she loves to go tubin and she likes to go fast... She's a Good Ole Girl...
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1 pointI am not sure on the wiring of any of the other model of Wheel Horse tractors, but on the C175, and I am pretty sure this is true of the smaller C-series of the same vintage, ALL of the voltage from the battery runs through a single wire through the ammeter to the switch. The only circuit outside of the battery-ammeter-switch is the starter circuit (actually it is in circuit, but in another leg). In point of fact, pretty much all vehicle electrical circuits that employ an ammeter use similar wiring. The reason has to do with what an ammeter does, versus a voltmeter. A voltmeter only measures electrical "pressure", while an ammeter measures electrical "volume". To better understand electricity and current flow, think of electricity as water. In water you have the pressure that moves it (pounds per square inch), and the volume, or how much water is going past a given point in time (gallons per minute). In electricity, voltage is the driving force that propels the individual electrons along, and is much like PSI, but is measured in volts. The number, or quantity of electrons moving past a given point in time, commonly called current, is measured in amperes (amps). One amp is equal to 6.2X10 to the 18th power of electrons flowing per second. That is a lot of the little buggers. To recap then, voltmeters measure pressure, or volts, and ammeters measure current in amps, or the quantity of electron flow. Simple. To accurately measure the flow of current in a circuit with an ammeter, you need to have all of that current flow through the ammeter first. You don't have this restriction with a voltmeter, as you can place the voltmeter anywhere in the circuit that allows it to measure the voltage of the battery. Of the two meters, the ammeter is the most useful. Not only can you tell immediately if your charging system is working or not, you can also get a good idea of what circuit is at fault if you have a short. Example: Tractor starts fine, and the current draw looks normal. If when the the starter is released the meter goes into, or stays in the negative (to the left of zero), you immediately know you are not charging. If it charges OK, but drops to the negative when the headlights are turned on, then you know you have a dead short somewhere in the light circuit. With a voltmeter, if you are not charging, it will take some time before the meter registers the drop in voltage as the battery is becoming depleted. Dead shorts will look the same way, and there isn't any way to determine where the short is, other than tracing the circuit with a multimeter. As we are all aware, voltmeters are used on all the newer tractors, while ammeters were employed with the older models. The reason is that voltmeters are the cheaper of the two to make. What this has to do with Glenn's sudden dead tractor problem, is that on tractors with an ammeter like his, the first thing to check is if there is voltage coming out of the ammeter to the switch. If there is, then you should probably look at the ignition switch, then all those miserable little safety interlock switches. I had the same issue with my C175 last week. Suddenly went dead. Found that the posts on the ammeter were corroded and not making good contact. A side problem was the corrosion had built up sufficiently that current was occasionally arcing from the posts to the meter mounting strap, thus blowing the 25 amp inline fuse. I posted this long missive so that others who have issues with their electrical system will have a little better understanding of how they are wired, and work. Once you have the basics, troubleshooting these tractors is really pretty easy, and do not take very long at all. Glad you found your problem Glenn, and you are making excellent progress. That machine is really looking fine now.
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1 pointYes you did, and it was down and locked as it has been while starting it all week. I guess that last lock down she finally went that millimeter where the safety wouldn't work. Will check that tomorrow. On a better note, cleaned the connections on the ammeter, now she's working. Got to like an easy solve. Lol, all kinds of one after the next surprises on the pig. Glenn
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1 point
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1 pointRecently refurbished after 25 years+ rotting in an old outbuilding (UK)- Redsquare Calender image from July 2011- And a frame taken from old Super 8 Cine Film of the Tractor the day it was delivered on 21 June1972-