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My daughter Shanna loves John Deere's. I threatened to cut off her inheritance if she continues to disgrace this family with her green tractor. I keep telling her we are a Wheel Horse family, and there is no room for green here. So we decided love conquers all and met in the middle as a good Father and Daughter should. Here's what we came up with. LOL

I got the 701 out for a little exercise today and my daughter wanted to drive it. The goofball came down without shoes but I let her drive it anyway. Of course, in the video, as you will see, she wanted to know if it would go faster. She had a blast. IMG_3704.MOV IMG_3705.MOV

I was looking for a couple parts for my 73, and decided to check craigslist. The funny part is when I started dialing the number for the ad it happened to pull up the guys name from my contacts.... So I scored a heck of a deal by trading a couple things that I was no longer using. Both tractors need rebuilding, but the majority of the pieces are there plus they are both 8 speeds. There is only one good deck between them, but the one that is rusted out at least has a bunch of good parts still. The spindles still spin freely. The 417-8 was in use until June, and only has a knock that sounds like a wrist pin. The 310-8 smokes so it will need punched out, the carb is toast so it will need replaced. My plan is to fix up the 417 and keep it as a worker with my blade on it, and move trailers around. Eventually I want to put a loader on it. I don't figure for about $200 (what I valued my trade as) it wasn't a bad deal. Now to get the wife to see the value in them since all she sees in "junk" that will clutter up the yard.

I'm really glad you guys got a good laugh out of our Sunday afternoon of being goofy. I wanted to share that time with you. Shanna is back in Nursing school going for her RN this time. I sure am proud of her.

10-2-1948 Checkered flag waves at first postwar U.S. road race in Watkins Glen, New York On this day in 1948, the first American road race since World War II takes place in Watkins Glen, a tiny town near the Finger Lakes in New York. In 1961, the Watkins Glen event was added to the Formula One Grand Prix schedule and for the next 20 years it was a destination for the world’s best drivers. Compared to Monte Carlo and other sophisticated stops on the Formula One circuit, Watkins Glen was scarcely even on the map (Sports Illustrated poked fun at its “courage and cornpone, sophistication with straw in its teeth”), but the race was named the best Grand Prix of the season more than once. Road racing–that is, racing sleek sports cars on real roads instead of custom-built tracks–had fizzled out in the United States during World War II, but was revived in Watkins Glen by an enterprising young law student named Cameron Argetsinger. Argetsinger was a fan of European road racing in particular and fast driving in general and he was convinced that the village’s twisting, scenic lanes and byways would be perfect for a Grand-Prix–style event. (He was motivated by more than civic boosterism, however: as he once explained to a reporter, “I had an MG-TC and didn’t have a place to race it.”) Argetsinger spent months planning the race–he plotted its course by arranging and rearranging magazines on his living room floor–and finally settled on a 6.6-mile, mostly paved route around the town’s perimeter. Before the race could happen, Argetsinger needed to get permission from nine different state agencies and the New York Central railroad, which agreed to suspend train service through Watkins Glen for the afternoon so that the drivers could cross the tracks safely. (As a result, some people refer to October 2 as “the day the trains stopped.”) Twenty-three cars participated in that first race; Argetsinger and his MG finished ninth. By the end of the decade, the event was drawing 100,000 spectators each year and in 1956, after a couple of race-day accidents on the public roads, the town built a brand-new course especially for its Grand Prix. In 1961, the Watkins Glen race became the only American stop on the Formula One tour (“A biscuit,” one reporter wrote, “reincarnated as a brioche”). In 1981, citing financial difficulties, Formula One dropped the race from its schedule. Since then, there have been U.S. Grand Prix races in cities from coast to coast–in Long Beach, Las Vegas, Detroit, Dallas, Phoenix and Indianapolis–but none as successful or celebrated as the ones at Watkins Glen.

It turned out to be a great day at Scott's. I think the rain kept the crowd down a little, but we had a very nice variety of horses there. It was good to see old friends again as we head into winter.

The GT-14 has the Sundstrand Hydro Gear model 90-2062 (if original). The symptoms you described are typical of a worn-out hydro pump. It works great until it reaches operating temp, then fades....correct? The only solution is to rebuild the hyd pump and I have done such a number of times...successfully. This not so daunting a task. I am a retired bean-counter and if I can do it...successfully....most anyone who knows what a box-end wrench is, can do the same. I can provide TONS of pics of the rebuild process, and refer you to a source for some parts, though not all parts are available anymore. There are 9 pistons in a cylinder block that have brass surface SLIPPERS and these get scarred or scratched, allowing hot oil to bypass thru those imperfections, resulting in loss of pressure. There are a few other components needing service..Charge Pump Housing, Gerotor set, Thrust Plate. These are steel and MAY require a machinist's flat grinder. Don't remove too much material from any part....just enough to eliminate the gouges or scratches. Some REALLY DEEP gouges may not come out...get most of them though. You'd be will advised to install 3 new oil seals in the pump housing too... Essentially what needs doin' is to resurface the BRASS components of the pump...meticulously...by hand. Depending on how deep the gouges are, use the infamous "WAX ON....WAX OFF... technique to resurface the parts. Use a machinist's SURFACE PLATE or THICK SHEET OF GLASS. I start with 280 grit, then 400 grit, and finish with 600 grit with a drop of oil on the sand paper. Don't make a mirror finish....just to a buff. Try to keep pistons in their original cylinder bore as the sidewalls have mated over time. NOTE.... here are a couple pics for reference. There MAY ALSO BE other components that have failed...or broken and these my be addressed too. Valves, springs, O-rings and the like...not directly related to the components of the hyd pump.

i got to meet glen pettit, and quickly discovered 3 things. he is a very nice man, he has a great selection of high quality parts, and he was very happy to take my money! all kidding aside , what a great guy, he is an asset to the hobby. he gave me a great deal on a pile of parts.

I drill them and install brass bushings in both shaft installation points. The upper one gets drilled to allow for grease to flow in from fitting. Cleat

Van, that thing is an abomination. You do realize that you have permanently soiled that hood don't you?

OH...the horror! Poor Elmer & Cecil... must be rolling over in the grave.

I have a pic of what got picked up today . Thanks @ol550 for the A-81 and @biggin for the snow thrower . My son wished that 867 would've jumped on the trailer ! Can't forget about @Jake Kuhn for the k91 block.

Hey guys, new to the site, going to kill two birds with one thread and combine my build into an intro also. Tony from MA, picked up a few wheel horses last season, an RJ and a 502, sold the 502 and am now finding time to start a little resto/mod on my RJ. I started disassembling it yesterday and have a few questions maybe you all could help out with. My plans are not to give it a full factory restoration because of time/funds and overall shape of the unit as it stands. So i have a few motors to chose from laying around the shop and some other parts i am going to be using. so the first and most important question is transmission seals and bearings. Is there a source i can buy a kit or any one place i can itemize and order all the bearings and seals I need? also whats the best fitting off the shelf style replacement fuel tank? Here are some pictures, When i first opened the case i was a little disappointed but i knew it was not going to be pretty from the water i drained out of it. but luckily But a quick wipe down revealed that they gears and case were pretty well protected by a layer of grease before the water intrusion so off to the hot tank for everything. So these are the bearings and seals i am looking to replace. I will also be needing a set of front wheels. stay tuned this project is hopefully going to make ground quickly.

If the women keep loving to drive the us guys better watch out they will take over the snow blowing, mowing and the fun of us just driving them. .

are we there yet?...are we there yet?...are we there yet?...are we there yet?...are we there yet.?..are we there yet?...are we there yet?...are we there yet?...are we there yet?...are we there yet? At least that hood will out last that tractor.

Paul brings up a good point. In the old days, one often did a "shade tree" overhaul if funds were not available for a true rebuild. These sorts of overhaul were only done when there was no evidence of significant wear on the crank and cam. As he pointed out, you could get a gasket kit and a standard ring set (if it has never been bored). You then dismantled the engine, cleaned up any ridge at the top of the bore, removed the piston, then de-glazed the bore with a hone. Best hone to use is the "berry" type, leaving a nice 45 degree cross-hatch pattern. One must make sure to remove as little metal as possible, yet get a good pattern. To improve compression, you then lap in the valves with valve grinding compound. Again, lap only to a clean up. Of course, you clean up the engine parts thoroughly both before, and after the work. Assemble the engine, adjust the valves, and there you are. If wear isn't very bad on the bore, crank, etc., you can sometimes get upwards of 50-60% more life from the motor, perhaps more. Shade tree overhauls are not a bad option if money is tight, you have a basically decent engine to work with, and you do not plan on thrashing the motor afterwards.

If the smoke bothers you you could pull the piston hone the cylinder to deglaze it and put in some new aftermarket rings. May stop/reduce smoke and wouldn't cost much.

Just for grins , I did a bit of a comparison recently.... Had a buddy over who brought a guy from work with him. Had both the '73 16 Auto and the Deere LA145 sitting out after a bath , the '73 has been resprayed/decals and looks pretty good . I asked , out of the two , which the guy would buy used .... He said the Deere , based on reputation and horsepower (22hp Briggs) . Then , I asked him about quality/weight/design ... He says , well , the Deere is a lot of plastic , but at least it has the horsepower to pull that big deck . Hmm.... I said "well, there is a huge difference in torque , that old Kohler will pull the 48" deck just as well as the Deere's 22hp Briggs" . He looked at me like I was nuts and asked if he could try them out . After two passes each through some pretty tall grass at a faster than usual clip , he asked if he could buy the Wheel Horse . " It's not for sale" was my reply . I asked why he'd prefer the old Horse to a newer machine - he says " it doesn't feel so cheap, like it's about to fall apart" . He's been hunting CL now for a Horse of his . I wasn't aware buy my buddy later told me he's been buying a new lawn tractor about every 4-5yrs and is pretty reasonable about taking care of them , mows about 3/4 of an acre , pulls a small cart around and a sweeper . Every single one of them has had a transmission failure of the cast aluminum type . It was the cast iron beef he liked most in the old Horse and the way it rode due to larger tires and an extra 300lbs of weight vs the Deere . My point is until they understand the quality difference , they buy according to looks , hp numbers and price - it's an uneducated mass that wasn't taught enough about all things mechanical like many of us - or are at least willing to learn . There is a small group of older guys and even a couple pretty young rebuilding old garden tractors around here and putting them up for sale . Unless one is priced crazy - they disappear in just a few days . Illinois is a brutal place to live with swings in temperature/snow and grass duties . Cheap junk doesn't last , some are actually starting to learn .... I'm also working on a D180 lately and rebuilding it's 56" blade - getting tired of people stopping here and wanting to buy it despite the faded paint , rust and general ugliness that only the nose of a D can generate . It's a huge chunk of iron and has a certain appeal of being in charge of something brutal , I guess.... Sarge

43 miles due south of me. I get on the road that passes by my house and never have to turn off of it. This is a cool little village with a beautiful gorge in the state park which is right smack dab in the middle of down town. If your into vintage race cars visit during the Annual Grand Prix Festival after labor day. If you come make sure your car has NEW BRAKES. The hill around this village are unbelievable!

Well now, seems I was in the middle of this rustle rampage between VA and NY (York, PA). I'm going to have check out my sheds in the morning and take a roll call of all my horses. I've rustled some of mine out of MD and MA into PA, so I not only have to keep an eye out for the "authorities" but also those out of PA state rustlers.

UPDATE :::::::: Ok, this bad boy is paid for, now it's mine. On to phase 2, getting it home to me. Working out a deal with uship. I saw a few members used them, you know what I like, they pick it up and drop it off, right at your door, non of the pallet bs either, and bring it to them. Now, when it gets home to me, and it's a wreck, I will change this post. Lol Glenn

Get out the Carhartts and woolly hats. It's time for Scott's M & G! Will the weather hold for the final show? Only The Shadow knows! Safe travels to all and don't forget!:

They do make them. I have seen them in various medical settings. Problem will be getting the guys on Red Square to agree on what "shade" of red or brand will constitute the official and acceptable Wheel Horse "Red"... May have to post a new thread on that issue alone!

Message member Jake Kuhn here... http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/profile/4240-jake-kuhn/ offers complete kits to redo all the seals and bearing inside your trans.

The engine should get good airflow! does it run?

I have an m16 with over 1200 hours on it. Runs good but uses about a quart of 30w every 8 to 10 hours.It is down on power as compared to a K series 16hp I have but the 341 has very few hours on it.I have no intentions of a rebuild of the m16 at this time.No serious smoke except at start up.The block would need to be bored.Somewhere over a $100 in my area.New piston and rings,plus gaskets $150.00 and then maybe valve guides,new or reground valves.Around here regrind on the crank is $75.00 If you farm this work out maybe $500 or $600 for parts and labor in my area.You would still have to break the engine down and reassemble it.JMHO,JAinVA

Don't worry about it. I just grabbed the C175 out of Virginia. Lol kind of like *** for tat. In a manner of speaking. Glenn Let's start a new rule, we (the members) can only cross state lines for wheel horses every third Tuesday of the month. Can you see us all zig zaging and horn tooting to one another on the interstates. I am laughing just typing this. Glenn Glenn

That is a 1973 model....only year they were named that way on the decal

Hey AC! Nice buddy! Where in the world are you stashing all of this great stuff? Not that I might make a midnight run up from VA or anything. Hopefully I'll be here a little more now that Dad is doing better. He's finally able to drive again and feels great to be out and about again. Keep an eye out for us ole VA horse rustlers!

Another party at the Dino truck! Almost didn't recognize Steve with out the Carhartt! Bang! Waitin for Jake to start a beard! Was hoping Lane would have one of his classic hats!

Progress has been slow for the last week.... the axle is mounted but I cannot steer. The tie rod ends I just bought are left hand threads and there is no tap avaliable for it so I'm waiting for new ones to arrive. It sure does sit up much higher! Once she is leveled out, I think I'll be higher than the C195 I had earlier this year! .. At the very least, the front tires don't stick out farther than the rears!

Waiting for raffle so here are some pics real quick:

Just look for the giant blowup of @stevasaurus holding his cup on top of the grain elevator , waving in the wind . It's the beacon for all RED SQUARE members to join us for the M&G .

D.J. Harrison of Coatesville, Indiana took this nice video yesterday of me operating the CBR-32 front cutter bar on the 1958 Wheel Horse RJ. This was across the street from Scott Mehlberg's Meet and Greet, You don't get to see these in opearationmuch so I am posting it for Red Sqaure members to view. https://www.facebook.com/dewayne.j.harrison/videos/1221926974496866/

Wifey was scrolling though the classifieds and tripped over this little guy for $100. 1991 520-H with rear discharge 42" deck. 40 miles round trip, but I could not get out there fast enough. Previous owner says he is not mechanically inclined. It tossed a belt and he then let the battery sit dead over the winter. He installed a new battery this year but no start ~ thus the sale. I bought a deck belt from the toro dealer this morning, I still need to source a drive belt. It needs lots of cleaning but over all it looks to be in good shape (Seat is clean / no rips). Came with original sales brochure and owners / service manual. Wifey was reading about them BAJA testing the WHeelhorse mowers 500 miles ~ to advertise that they were Baja tough. Funny cause I don't recall seeing many lawns out in Baja back country. ~ I picked up a late 80's 38" Wheel Horse back in 2008 for Wifey's aunt. It has been a solid performer. Here is Wifey's find ~ still in the back of the truck. It needs some cleaning and TLC. I'm hoping to find all of the tricks to make it back to a prized possession worthy of a place in Grandad's garage.

most of my small engines smoke at start up,i wouldn't worry if it doesn't smoke aftrer that,ive had kohlers that have 3000 hours and still goin,and I have a 312-h that had 300 and smoked so bad I coyuldn't drive it till I rebuilt it,keep the oil clean and full and she will run along time

As someone who used to paint for a living, I would not strip them down. Just leave them till spring and block them out and put more paint over the clear. You would want to try a small part first to make sure it not going to lift or anything, but I see no reason to strip your parts back down. Randy

Buy her some RED scrubs when she graduates - not them light GREEN things everyone wears....

That time of year again .A good cleaning & inspection then it's off to FPP in Ellicotville for a look at the engine noise & a dyno tune .So far (My) to-do list : 1) Rear wheel-bearings2) TTI arm bearings Read more: http://tri-state-atv-riders.freeforums.net/thread/53/time-again?page=1#ixzz4LxVrPXWP

Two observations... The Wheel Horse hood is of course covering the weaker JD components from the elements etc. as they obviously need such help to last a bit longer... and, the duct tape is on the JD seat... just sayin...

Van, you need a bit more red in there. Lol At least there was a compromise. Glenn

See if this helps...

I started reading Red Square in late May early June looking for info on mounting the dozer / snow blade a neighbor gave me last year. Then I found myself reading on other issues or repairs our members were posting about since I was reading forums daily figured I should join up. By late August the wealth of information obtainable here and the knowledge I gained made me feel I need to become a supporter. Yesterday I came to a stand still on my snow thrower modification, Waiting on a part form Wheelhorseman1000, a woodruff key seat cutter from Production tool and needed to pickup correct length belt. So I decided to use the knowledge I acquired and do some maintenance on my mule drive since the v-pulley wasn't spinning as freely as the flat pulley. I proceeded to setup a couple pieces of 1/4" plate steel i had in garage across bucket of grass seed so once free mule drive had cushioned place to land. Nut, guard and first spacer all came right off so with pulleys resting on plates and mule hanging I tried hitting it with a dead blow hammer and nothing. Liberally soaked it down with break away tapping on pulleys and spacer to help penetration and called it a day. This morning after watching news and drinking my coffee figured I better get back on the mule drive since lift flag should be here today. I have to say I am one of the lucky ones first hit with the dead blow and shaft started to push through the pulleys. Once I got it all disassembled I found the v-pulley had all kinds of crap on the out side of the bearing knowing that it's a sealed bearing I was hoping that it was friction from debris causing this issue. I cleaned it up best I could and it did to seem to turn better but not as free spinning as the flat pulley there are not catches in it as you spin it just doesn't spin free as it should. As I was cleaning it my son in-law seeing my garage was open walked across the street to see if I needed any help today. I explained what I had found and he asked if I needed to replace it? I told him what I had learned here reading a post on drilling the spot welds out and replacing just the bearing and bolting the 2 halves of pulley back together. I told him that I thought it would be ok for now and may need to do that in spring or some time next season and would let him know so he could learn how to use more of my tools. For reassembly I had thought about coating shaft with never seize since that stuff sticks to every thing and doesn't wash off easy then it hit me I LPS 3 in my chemicals cabinet. When I was working as a stamping and forging press machinist we used that product on parts that were stored outside so for years it goes on in liquid form and cures to a waxy film. I cleaned the shaft the inside of bearings and spacers and used it to see how it works to keep the surface rust that causes the mule drive pulley to be a issue to remove. I will try to remember to take pictures when time come to replace the v-pulleys bearing to show how it worked. On Thursday I was able to get the idler sprockets installed on the snow thrower and ran out to Motion ind. for a 10' length of chain that leaves me extra to make replacement when needed. The lift flag came just before lunch I had to weld a heavy washer since it appears the lift tube is few inches shorter than the correct one would be but it lifts easy enough shouldn't need the lift assist spring. Should be able to get access to use of the mill in a friends gun smithing shop in next couple of weeks to cut the keyway. All that will remain to do this year is to weld the sprocket to the drive shaft since I have already decided to wait till next year to draw up prints for the chain guards that I'll need a sheet metal shop to cut for me assemble. I want to design one for inside that will slip up around auger shaft to keep the maximum amount of snow away from chain.

Those newer models are growing on me. I don't even have the one you sold me home yet and thinking about more! This hobby is addicting!!!! Randy

Currently here, at #28... the Mrs Rules has finally learned... to just stop asking.

The best or most versatile imop would be either the GT14 or the C195 of WHs larger tractors. Once i picked up a 195 the 160 was put into storage, while its a great all around unit it was to small for my needs. I would not pick any of the Ds, they have to many issues and parts are specific and getting hard to come by. Although the GT14 and the 195 have their own issues the C195's would be easiest to overcome. Most of the parts and attachments are inter-changeable with the smaller C's and 3-500 series and the engine can be swapped easy enough. I had loaders on both and both handle one well, the 3pts on both work well. I do like my XI tractor but parts and attachments are not as plentiful.

You mean to say you didn't stop and give him a ride!

Whoever decided to place lower cost LAWN Tractors in the box stores struck gold for the manufacturers but not for the consumer. People think they are buying a very hi quality machine for the money, it looks good , has a so called hi HP strong motor but at the end of the day, regardless of the brand name, they are disposable and in many cases NON fixable . This era of corporate "executive" planning closed the door on the garden tractors. I am sure we all know someone who spent good money, not cheap, for a box store lawn tractor and within a few short years they had to replace it. Just look around as we are driving each day, the yards are full of them parked with flat tires and tall grass around them. They are worth only their weight in metal. nobody cares, they bought it on credit and made small monthly payments to a 20% credit card over 5 or 6 years ! They are not even paying attention. Maybe I'm crazy, maybe I'm too old, but when I came home with a new Wheel Horse ( 1975 and 1987) and even the two I recently purchased , I felt like a kid in the candy store, I was excited, proud to own them. They are not lawn mowers to me, far from it, they have significance,they represent an era of USA manufacturing and design that has left the planet. I guess the generations today would indeed think I am senile for being excited about owning a "lawn mower". Truth be known, I could care less if I ever cut grass with any of them ! When I look at them I am brought back to my childhood when I first saw a neighbor plowing snow with one probably around 1960. thats what I see.

Don't forget the proliferation of the ZTR to help kill the GT market. I think the three factors that saw the end of the GT tractor as we know and like it are: the ZTR the SCUT Throw-away mentality society