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And frog legs, and catfish. I had the pleasure of meeting one of our Texas members today, oliver2-44. Jim and I met at Black Hammock and enjoyed some great conversation as we ate their sampler platter. Black Hammock is on the shore of Lake Jesup which has the densest gator population of any lake in Florida. I guess we could call this a Wheel Horse meet and greet Florida style. Jim, it was a true pleasure and if you're ever in the area again look me up.

I stopped at a yard sale today and asked the lady about the little red tractor. She said she thought it was a Wild Horse... It was repainted, no decals. She made a call and said it was a raider 10, old style hood modified to fit 10hp briggs engine that hasn`t been run for two years. 8 speed trans. Overall probably worth the $200 they were asking but I didn`t need another project....

May be a lift to make it easy to clean the inside of the deck after mowing. But now it's a 2 day job to check the engine oil level.

I ran across these photos, and I was wondering if someone could explain this. In addition, how well would it work?

Saw this little wheel horse, I don't know any thing about it, was sitting alone and no one around. Does any one ID it.

He is 'at rest' now.....It was pretty neat--the family used his GT14 to pull the flatbed trailer, with the casket resting peacefully, down the road to the cemetery. Middle of day--traffic stopped everywhere--everyone looking....Randolph's last ride on his 'favorite.... The first picture is his SIL, unloading it--and the next few are the tractor itself. ** For you 'die-hard' specialists--this was/is a 1969 GT14--first year made. He spent better than 8 years, I re-call working on it. Every piece sanded/blasted/painted several times==hung to dry for several years. Every seal/every bearing is NOS. every bolt is facing the same way. He did a lot of up-fits and improvements that actually made this one better than off the assembly line. I have posted a few pic's from the day, but you would really have to see this 'ride' in person. I think he had it @ one show, when I took him, if I remember right...I'll find some of the actual procession.... He wasn't flashy at all--but he sure knew he hit a 'home run' with this little tractor... glenn

Definite overkill on the hydraulics! I see a tiller on the back with hoses going in that direction and I suppose a blade or small bucket would go on the front. For sure he will have good down pressure!

Now Jay...that's not a valid excuse to not save a WILD MUSTANG.

Someone just wanted hydraulics on their 8 speed Wheel Horse. The 2nd valve may go to a mid (or rear) lift.

My head is saying SNOW plow....a small electric winch might have saved days of thought ... i just noticed............2 valves,, hmmmmm.

Jelly, I don't have a clue, you can see time and effort went into it. But I am by far no hydro / pneumatics expert. Drop the guy a line, see what he was thinking, or drinking, or smoking. That is currently for sale though Right? I just saw it within the past week I think. Glenn

Uh oh! Better get yer 's in the barn tonight.

You probably stuck your nose up at it cause it didn't have a FEL, horse horn or hood funky hood ornament!

Hey everyone. I don't know how many of you have a facebook.com account, but wanted to let you all know about this Facebook group called wheelhorse mancave I stumbled across. It doesn't have nearly the knowledge and information as we do here, but some interestingthings pop up from time to time.

That 'idler arm' should slide back and forth just a little to maintain tension on the belt. There should be TWO nuts on A and ONE on B. The spring should be between the two nuts on A. To set this right, do this: 1)take of the top nut and remove the spring. 2) adjust the nut on A and B so that the idler arm slides easily by hand, but not sloppy at all...slight drag is ok. 3) replace the spring and put the top nut back on. NOTE... don't oil or grease this apparatus...that is just a dirt magnet. Keep the belt covers on to prevent stick and debris. After you get the belt back on , pinch it by hand between the pulleys and you should see the idler arm move back and forth a little. If it doesn't, then it is too tight. Another thing...be sure you have the 4 nylon glides (the black thingys) on correctly....and that they aren't squashed or worn out of shape.

I'm with You with 953 , Looks to me he found a Northern catalog and just went over kill on a hydraulic system ! Mobile hydraulic unit for wood spliter , dump cart . Probably fan of Home Inprovment's Tool Time .

I don't have a clue what it all was for, but what ever he or she was building, they did a good job and must have put a lot of thought into it, plus money.

9-23-1908 Controversial call gives Cubs the pennant On September 23, 1908, a game between the New York Giants and Chicago Cubs ends in 1-1 tie, after a controversial call at second base. The officials ruled that Giants first baseman Fred Merkle was out because he failed to touch second base, a call that has been disputed ever since. On September 21, 1908, the Chicago Cubs headed to the Polo Grounds in upper Manhattan to play the New York Giants, who held a slim lead over the Windy City team for the National League pennant. The Cubs, however, were able to prevail in the first two games of the series due in large part to the fine play of pitching ace Mordecai “Three Finger” Brown. On September 23, the Giants sent their own pitching star, Christy Matthewson, to the mound. Matthewson held the powerful Cubs lineup in check all day, but the Giants were unable to score. Finally, in the fifth inning, Giants outfielder “Turkey” Mike Donlin misplayed a double by Cub star Joe Tinker to give the Cubs their lone run. However, Donlin redeemed himself in the sixth by hitting a home run to tie the game at 1-1. The score remained tied into the ninth, and with Giant Moose McCormick on first base after a fielder’s choice and two outs, Fred Merkle hit a single that sent McCormick to third. With men on first and third and afternoon turning to evening, shortstop Al Bridwell hit a single to center, scoring McCormick. Unfortunately for John McGraw’s Giants, Merkle never ran and touched second, he instead ran off the field after watching McCormick score. Cub manager Frank Chance instructed his team to throw the ball to second base and touch the bag. Giant pitcher Joe McGinnity had noticed Merkle’s blunder as well, however, and, with fans crowding the field in celebration, he threw the ball into the stands. Chance somehow obtained a ball, apparently not the game ball, and when he threw the ball to second base, Merkle was called out. Umpire Hank O’Day then called the game a tie due to impending darkness. Because the game could not end in a tie, it was replayed on October 8, 1908. In the makeup game the Cubs beat their rivals to secure the National League pennant and went on to beat the Detroit Tigers for their third consecutive World Series. Merkle stayed with the Giants until 1916, and although he went on to have a solid 19-year career in the majors, he continued to blame himself—both privately and publicly—for the Giants’ failure to win the 1908 National League pennant. In 1912, Merkle was involved in another unfortunate incident when he, Matthewson and Giant catcher Chief Myers let a pop fly in foul territory fall between them during the World Series. The batter, Red Sox outfielder Tris Speaker, then singled, and the Red Sox rallied to beat the Giants 3-2 for their second World Series championship.

One very important thing not mentioned when pushing snow, especially if you are pushing LOTS of it is that you need some SPEED and or MOMENTUM. In my 520 video I don't think it was the fact that it had a 20 hp Onan on it that allowed it to push so much snow. I'm sure it helped some but the one thing that stands out the most is the speed I was going. If I was a gentle Ginger I would have had a very hard time pushing that much snow.. Here is another video to prove my point... Notice how far I back up into the street to get a good head of steam and how easily the tires first spin each time I do that. No weights, no chains, just a lot of speed and momentum. This was pretty wet heavy snow..

Not mine, and not a Wheel Horse, but an owner's review of Terragrips after the first winter of usel

This tractor started out as a 1056, swapped the 10hp for a 16hp, the 3 speed for an eight speed, modified the dash tower, added lawn ranger fenders, replaced the hood, slammed on about 280lbs of rear wheel weights, 30lbs of front wheel weights, and a custom 50lb weight out front. It's sporting firestone flotations in the rear and firestone tri ribs up front, a NOS 1054 hy pump, and a custom shortie hi/low shifter to fit the pump on. A special thaks to @wheelhorseman1000 for the briny clevis hitch, lift cable, hydraulic cylinder rebuild, and custom hydraulic lines. Here it is a 1056 modified so hard the only original peices are the frame and front axle. Now all I need is for the crops to come out so I can go plowing Sorry phone doesn't rotate pics

Brandon, good eye but this has been discussed before. The wheels are on correctly. I'm not sure why they are like that though.

Obviously when my little C-85 spins it's got HP just no more traction. I lust for more HP like most but through the years I've decided that most of the HP of the larger HP machines just goes unused other than to burn more gas, unless those extra HP are being used for blowing snow or maybe some for tilling. In most cases I just don't think the extra HP can be transferred through the tires. Extra HP to me is a feature that seldom has a benefit. I'm sure some "pullers" will say otherwise but I don't seem to be able to.

The "Empire State" will become horseless if this rustling isn't stopped!

Adjust the carburetor until you are running a bit more rich. Running lean as Richard said can cause the engine to run too hot.

JaY better get his sleep.........we're rustlin a Horse Saturday mornintg !!!!!! In the land Of Pace Picanti Sause....But not near NEUW Yok CIT^Y !!!! or is it just a Big Apple?? and Jay,,,,,,I wasnt gonna say a single word about your funky hood orniment,,,,,,Hey.....it dont eat alot.....did i say Hay..??? lolololo

My old butt is only rated to minus 5F so that would be fine for me, LOL...

I would change the pipe coming out of the block. I use a short nipple, then a 45 and then another about 4" piece of pipe. I don't think you are running too hot, your just too close to the hood with a single walled pipe.

Bob, I am envious...good food and great conversation. Really cool...thanks for the pictures. I've talked with Jim a few times on the phone..nice to see who I was talking with. Those look like Shirley Temples.

I did! I used some brake clean and steel wool that was sitting just a couple feet away...no excuses! They were pretty clean but there were areas that had some rust. Thanks!

She actually described it better than most other people who don't know diddly about tractors.

I believe the housing itself is 37" wide and the two extension wings make it 42". Garry

Not sure either, but he definitely knows more about hydraulics than I do....

The 75 C-120 has the Sundstrand power unit and here is a schematic of it for future use. Your tow valve is item 46 in the pump schematic. Once up and running, I'd urge you to change the oil (or ATF) and filter. Do this CAREFULLY and in a clean area. Do you have the hydraulic lift with it? If not, I can get you there. Its the same as on my C-160 and I'd not be without it. MOTOR 90-1136, 37, 40.xlsx PUMP 90-1136, 37, 40.xlsx

Got a 520-H? Just kidding. I have my sights set on what I wanted in the first place, a 753! After going to the Mid-Mo M&G last Saturday, drooling over Larry's 753s has me wanting one again. A member here who is just a few miles down the road from me has one that he's agreed to trade me his 753 for my recently acquired 701 (from wh500special) and some cash. Problem is, the more and more I look at the 701.......

Begin with a quick check of the oil to see if it is at the proper level and looks and smells like oil. A few shots of PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil should free up the tow valve. My 46 year old Sunstrand works great.

Still available from Kohler. Have a local dealer? https://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/parts/48-755-10-s/ Garry

Kind of a scary looking mascot!! Wonder how many kids that thing freaked out.

Bttatro I will check it out. Thanks.

If the engine has points and no visible coil, the coil that it has is under the flywheel. The coil is no longer available, because it is part of the stator assembly and the whole assembly would have to be replaced. A lawnmower tech who has worked on and converted many of them told me that the conversion consists of changing the ignition switch, adding a coil and + feed to the coil, and putting on the proper condenser.because the one the tractor comes with is not the proper value for the [converted] machine.. Of course you should clip off the wires from the old coil. that lives under the flywheel If your Horse has no solenoid, you will see the big battery cable going right to the switch and another large cable coming out of the switch. That's a lot of "juice" running through a small switch area, but others on this forum have advised me that the switches are built for it. BTW, my mechanic told me that I could leave the old switch installed, but I would need to install a secondary switch to feed the coil. Just make sure that the switch is lighted so I will not forget to turn it off when shutting down the tractor I have one that i will convert this winter because there is no spark. It is very difficult to see that horse quietly sitting there all cleaned up with no place to go, but work and life get in the way. Aftermarket coils are available that have the proper resistor included.the automotive coils from car parts places are not likely to have that resistor..Here is one such supplier who has some interesting items and upgrades.http://www.kirkengines.com/ Of course, there is no reason to convert your horse if it still works, but I thought I'd share the knowledge of an older repair mechanic I know in case someone has one of these machines not putting out spark

You have magneto ignition with points and condenser. Garry

looks MASSIVELY OVER-ENGINEERED for an attachment lift 10 hp should easily power the system. those poor front wheel spindles ! .

I saw that recently, isn't that for sale currently? Some home made hydraulic rig.. don't know how it would work, but it's interesting, good ol American ingenuity. Glenn

i know I said this before but you will need a tool. I prefer a D/A polisher because its hard to screw up and i wont burn the paint, but you can use a regular polisher like 953 mentioned if you wish. I too saw the swirl marks and I know that there is a DEEP shine hiding there waiting to come out and surprise you. Go pick up a polisher

WARNING. This post was written by a sleep deprived engineer. Proceed at your own risk. The answer is both. In an ideal scenario the limiting factor is HP, but in most people's case they dont have enough traction to make HP the limiting factor. I think the 20hp will outperform the 8hp when you get enough traction. MOST of the time the traction is the limiting factor, but when you get enough weight and enough bite, 18 extra horsepower WILL push a lot more snow. (All other factors like tire width, tread type, ground type excluded for comparison sake) However I think there is a balance when you are talking pushing snow. I think that you could not physically weight down a 520 enough to take advantage of ALL of that horsepower without breaking something. I think it would not take a whole lot of weight (comparatively) to weight down an 8hp machine enough to stall when pushing snow. So somewhere in the middle is the balance of enough horsepower vs enough weight to be the ultimate pushing machine. I don't know if that's clear, let me try an example: Case 1: I take my 854, and put 220lbs (front and rear wheel weights), plus 175 of me, 400 of tractor = 795lb GVW, I would consider that tractor to be pushing the limits of what it can handle safely and reliably. Add chains and I will bet I can stall it in second gear pushing 8" of wet snow on my first straight pass out the drive. Case 2: I take my 522xi and put 500lbs of weight on it (front, rear wheel weights, loaded tires, + suitcase weights) plus 175 of me, 1050 of tractor = 1,725lb GVW, I would consider that also pushing the safe, reliable limits. I would bet that it would dig a hole in my concrete driveway while pushing 18" of wet snow before it stalled. Case 3: I take my old C-145 and put 120lbs on it to give it the same GVW as the 854. Add chains and I know it would be able to push the same 8" of wet snow in second gear that stalled the 854, making the horsepower no longer be the limiting factor, while not having to rack up 500lbs of weights every season that would be on the 522 tank. So all that to say that horsepower will make a difference on a properly equipped tractor but I think there is probably a balance to be found between enough horsepower vs not putting a stupid amount of weight on to use the horsepower. I would guess that with a reasonable amount of weights that you would see 12-14HP as the most you would reasonably need to push snow around, but it all depends on how well your tractor is equipped. Note: This ONLY applies to pushing snow. If you are talking snowblowers more HP is more better, every time.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/65468-m12-verses-the-k301/?page=2#comment-616498 Rubber chains were recently discussed in this post.

While I was finishing Street Rods as a side line I only shot lacquer; Primer, color and clear. One reason was the fact that it is harder than canalized enamel and the other is that it is workable within a couple of hours. Many times I wet sanded and polished parts within a couple of hours. Also, I used a low speed buffer with a liberal application of polishing compound being sure to keep the pad moving to prevent burning. The swirl marks seen on the recoil tell me you need to spend more time with polishing compound, hard to get a real good shine without a polisher. Be sure to attach your part to something solid so the polisher won;t send it into orbit! Calendar shot!

to I believe that your questions about the C-120 have already been answered. But I can tell you that they are a nice tractor. . I have a 1977 with a 42" deck.

Ok here I go. I'm in the snow plowing business and have an F-350 diesel with an 8' plow so when I get done with my route and finally get to my driveway I park out in the road and walk in. Nieghbors must think I'm crazy. But then depending the depth I bust out the 417-A with 2-stage blower, cab glass front with wiper,lights,and heat. If not too deep it's the C-165 with 48" blade. To scrape up ice off the blacktop it's the GT-1800 with 50" mid-mount grader blade. Then I clean up with the C-141 8 Speed with cab and Sweepster 48" broom. If stacking snow it's the C-141 with FEL. I'm with Dennis, I can't imagine changing all these attachments which explains why we need all these tractors. Wait I think I my need some counseling, is this rediculous?