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My friend Roger Parmely of Greencastle, Indiana completed his rebuild of a 4 wheel Wheel Horse wagon the other day . To celebrate the completion he hauled his Wheel Horse RJ in the four wheel wagon with his 1966 656 Wheel Horse! What Roger started with and decided to go whole hog and restore! New Sheet Metal panels made for all four sides! Just like the originals!

If she dont need a bath, then I give up. 625 hours short snoot snowblower, 60 inch deck, weights chains. No smoke, runs great original owner. Serviced once a year at the dealer where it was bought brand new. Plenty of paint off, no dents, no rust through holes. More info down the road. I took a picture of my finger trying to get the decal under the seat. lol Enjoy, Glenn

Although I rarely wear caps, I do collect them. Here are two that are still brand new, one from the 70's I think and the other from the 80's I think it was given to me when I bought the 310-8 in 1987. They are real puffy in the front . Who knows maybe I'll wear one.

This showed up at my house tonight thanks to @ACcuz ! He called and said do you want me to pick up a 312-A for $200 . I told him " I don't know ,can you " then I said " things need to be moved around to get it in the barn . It's rough needs key switch , headlights , chains and a snowblower ! Hey this time it wasn't me but I not going to turn down another horse for the stable either . pretty sure it's not original engine . On the pto side is the pan tapped ? Need to check that . I guess you buy em cheap and stack them deep !

Hose her off, then spray her with some cheap perfume.

Had the 1054 out tonight with the dozer/snow blade smoothing out a little top soil. Why use a rake when you have a Horse .

9-13-1814 Key pens Star-Spangled Banner On this day in 1814, Francis Scott Key pens a poem which is later set to music and in 1931 becomes America’s national anthem, “The Star-Spangled Banner.” The poem, originally titled “The Defense of Fort McHenry,” was written after Key witnessed the Maryland fort being bombarded by the British during the War of 1812. Key was inspired by the sight of a lone U.S. flag still flying over Fort McHenry at daybreak, as reflected in the now-famous words of the “Star-Spangled Banner”: “And the rocket’s red glare, the bombs bursting in air, Gave proof through the night that our flag was still there.” Francis Scott Key was born on August 1, 1779, at Terra Rubra, his family’s estate in Frederick County (now Carroll County), Maryland. He became a successful lawyer in Maryland and Washington, D.C., and was later appointed U.S. attorney for the District of Columbia. On June 18, 1812, America declared war on Great Britain after a series of trade disagreements. In August 1814, British troops invaded Washington, D.C., and burned the White House, Capitol Building and Library of Congress. Their next target was Baltimore. After one of Key’s friends, Dr. William Beanes, was taken prisoner by the British, Key went to Baltimore, located the ship where Beanes was being held and negotiated his release. However, Key and Beanes weren’t allowed to leave until after the British bombardment of Fort McHenry. Key watched the bombing campaign unfold from aboard a ship located about eight miles away. After a day, the British were unable to destroy the fort and gave up. Key was relieved to see the American flag still flying over Fort McHenry and quickly penned a few lines in tribute to what he had witnessed. The poem was printed in newspapers and eventually set to the music of a popular English drinking tune called “To Anacreon in Heaven” by composer John Stafford Smith. People began referring to the song as “The Star-Spangled Banner” and in 1916 President Woodrow Wilson announced that it should be played at all official events. It was adopted as the national anthem on March 3, 1931. Francis Scott Key died of pleurisy on January 11, 1843. Today, the flag that flew over Fort McHenry in 1914 is housed at the Smithsonian Institution’s Museum of American History in Washington, D.C.

Nice, I too like me some ol' hats.

Me and scarlet(753) took another trip to store, she gets VIP parking lol

Having a fairly steep hill in my backyard growing up with a Wheel Horse, I would highly advise that you not back down a hill EVER if at all possible. Go forward and always have a plan b of a down hill location to steer if you were to loose traction. I have experienced this fairly often on bone stock wheel horses. As Richard mentioned, if you loose traction on one wheel, then the brakes are almost completely useless as the differential will allow it to "runaway from you". I have mostly seen this happen on low traction surfaces (wet grass, smooth metal, etc). Its rare to happen on regular surfaces unless the hill is very steep. There are some very effective solutions to this problem: Have good tread on your tires (get good tires) Keep it slow and don't change gears on a hill (if you forget to change gears as you start down a hill, throttle down the engine before you start to slip and it will help) WEIGHT, WEIGHT, WEIGHT - get wheel weights or fill the tires (or both!) and it will help plant the back end Chains - some people run chains year round. If you have enough traction the brakes work well Brakes - Be sure there is enough brake pad material and they are adjusted correctly. See @rmaynard if you need new brake shoes ALWAYS GO STRAIGHT UP/DOWN A HILL - If you unload the weight from one wheel going sideways you are in trouble! All the warnings aside, I don't want to scare you, Wheel Horses are incredibly capable tractors. If you do one or more of the list above, the tractor will feel planted and be very stable. As with everything else, when you take proper precautions you and your tractor will have a great and long life together!

Unfortunately the brakes on a Uni-drive Trans-axle are on the transmission, not the wheels. Since the force of the breaks is transferred through the differential when you apply the brakes the wheel with the least traction will feel the most breaking action. The only safe way to manage hills and ramps is to never let it build up speed. Whatever you do, do not let it roll back and try to stop by letting out the clutch, you will do a back flip!

i apologize for the wonkey camera angle and the sound quality

Happy Birthday to one of the coolest guys you'll ever meet! Have a great one Lane!

They don't come up for sale often. Prices vary drastically! The time to buy something like that is when you see it, as long as you can afford it. @WHX7 Jim... you'll wish you bought that one you saw for 900 if you are waiting on mine! You know how much I always say sentimental value is a wildcard? Gonna be a long time before anyone ponies up to get mine... you know... on my estate sale.

Excellent pictures and workmanship!! In the picture where the mushroom gear teeth are hitting the bearing...that bearing needs to be flush with the seat. It looks to be up a little. That will help, but it may not take care of all of it. Sometimes, there is a thrust washer under the bearing that the mushroom gear sits in. It is not thick, about the thickness of the gasket or less. It basically holds that bearing from being below flush and the mushroom gear teeth do not hit that other bearing. Know that these are very fine adjustments...too much thrust washer, and the side plates will pinch the mushroom gear and it will not turn. The gasket is 1/32" the thrust washer may be 1/32" or 1/64". If you did not have one in there, which is possible, I think I saw some at TSC. If you can't find one, and think you need one...I may have one and can mail it to you. As far as the axles...yes...you always have to hone them out to fit the axles. The axles should slip into the side plates with no binding whatsoever. The right way would be to drill with a 1" bit...but I have been successful using Emory cloth in combination with a hone used for brake cylinders. A 1" grinder bit in a drill helps also. It does not take much to make the axles fit. Do a little and check the fit. Try to sand where it is tight until it goes in nice. I will tell you that if you make it too snug, the transmission will bind when you tighten the side bolts and you will have to take it all apart and sand some more. Hope that helps. Make sure every thing works easily by hand as and when you put it together and before you mount it on the frame. Ask me how I know that. Troy, what axle seals are you planning on using. Show me a picture of the inside end of your axle tube please. Picture of the thrust washer. This picture shows an early RJ side plate. Notice the indentation in the tube. The bronze bearing would go down flush with the bottom of that indent. A SKF 9815 seal would go in the indent. As the bronze wore that seal would start to leak. Wheel Horse went to a cap seal then that fit over the end of the axle tube...TORO #83-2840. The TORO seal is what you want to use, or you could use both. Cap Seal

Looks spooky with empty headlight buckets 👽 ! Mike....

New to the site but have used it for many issues. I have my dad's 1968 raider 9 that I grew up with. It is all original including the paint. I'm in the process of rebuilding the 1967 RL426 mowing deck that came with it. Just got done putting new bearings and seals in the towers. I need to weld some patches in and I'm looking into using a ceramic abrasion resistant product made by belzona on the underside of the deck. I'll keep you all posted as I make my way through.

Feeling like a kid again I see . Instead of you pushing a small tractor in the dirt , you're riding a real tractor moving dirt !

Glad you brought it home, Glenn. The 520-8 is a special tractor. Certainly not an easy one to find. I think the story of why they made them is similar to that of the c-195...dealer feedback suggested they'd sell, but consumers voted otherwise when making their choice. They seem to to be found in clusters. I think certain dealers pushed them harder than others. Our local wh dealer on the north side of the St. Louis metro said he sold around 20 of them. 10% of their production trickled through his little shop. Amazing. Nice tractor. One every wh nut needs to have. And I just so happen to know where another one is...right here in river city 😎 Steve

You need a dog point set screw. The point enters the hole in the shifter donut and provides the pivot point. A 1/4" nut is added to the outside and snugged up when the set screw is adjusted for a smooth shift. This locks the set screw in place. Once done the shifter boot is placed over the screw/nut and it holds it down. Garry

Boy if you think she's dirty now, wait til you get her wet, then she'll be muddy NICE SCORE!

Jason, I wish you the best of health but If I wait long enough I just might get to own your wagon before I croak too.

Here ya go. You do still use that tab to hold the cable Steve. It was the later round hoods that used the tool box.

I told you were going to need a big barn for storage . are like potato chips you just can not have just one. Another nice score.

Thanks , @TDF5G I'll ask ACcuz if he likes the name Skulley and for Halloween get some red lights set inside for a spooky look .

I would kill for one of those wagons...or my wife would kill me for what they get for them... Nice job Roger and how did you get the horse to jump in the wagon??? Calendar shot right here for sure!

Looking great Troy. Those axle bushings gave me fits when I was reassembling my 5010. I addressed it in a thread 'Suburban 400 find in Florida'. Steve and I also had a lot of Skype time talking about it. I could slip both axles in their respective tubes and they turned great. I could assemble everything and it was still good. The second I torqued the side plate it was bind city. Because the axles spun freely when inserted individually that couldn't be the problem, right? Nope. I tore the transmission apart probably a dozen times searching for the culprit. I figured something was getting pinched. Then I assembled it leaving the differential out and it turned freely. Then I assembled it with only the differential in it. Bingo! As soon as I torqued the side plate bolts it bound up. Loosen them and it was free. After making certain I wasn't pinching the differential housing I decided to hone the bushings a bit more. I used a brake cylinder hone with some open mesh emery wrapped around it. It didn't take much more and all was good. Apparently the axle tubes weren't 100% parallel to each other and as soon as I torqued the bolts it put enough of a bind on the axles to cause the issue. I would suggest using a good thread sealer on the side plate bolts, at least on the lower four. Oil sits on them constantly and I had a little seepage until I sealed them.

And here is another "voice of experience" as I have a very steep hill my back yard which I have lost traction on many times. First off I believe you are much safer going down your hill in one of your forward gears if you can get turned around at all. First gear is a lower speed than reverse. I can think of only one time that I have had a run away Wheelhorse in reverse on my back yard hill and it ended badly (I did my best emulation of Bob Maynard and his upside down tractor, BUT I had the deck running with a faulty seat kill switch; fortunately I escaped unharmed). When and if you ever experience a "run away" on your hill, my experiences say the best way to recover is to keep your foot OFF the brake and let the engine/wheels slow you down. You will gain traction faster this way than when standing on the brake.

thanks Steve here is the same tractor restored

@stevasaurus transmission problems !!! I repeat the Elfman needs your ! I do believe that you need to hone out the bushings to fit the axels . You can always go back to Steves thread ( so you want to rebuild that three piece transmission ) but the master should chime in soon .

Lane, Happy Birthday!!! Welcome to the land of Medicare!

ACman Nice pick up I had one of those at 1 time. Keep an eye on those safety switches. they can be a pain.

A friend with ... is a friend indeed.

Stuck oil control rings most likely. But it's also possible the crankcase breather is stuck open/clogged up. Easy check is looking at the air filter and it's housing to see if oil is present. If dry run engine with air cleaner/filter cover off and see if any blowby is coming out the breather tube. Blowby means stuck oil rings. Under $100 for a set of STD rings, head gaskets and oil pan gasket. No reason to part out a nice tractor due to a stuck oil ring. Might get lucky and it's just the breather that's gunked up.

1960 Suburban 400 Rat Rod

You will appreciate having a dozer blade AND a snow blower both ready for winter duty! I'd make the 14 horse my blower. While I try to do better if it has no issues it is worth $500. Then you just got to find another for the tiller!

Sounds like a fair price,at least in my area of the world.While the decision is yours you know you can't have to many.Right now I have the 416-8 with 42" side discharge setup for leaf harvesting.The c101 has the tiller mounted.The 416H has the single stage blower mounted since I got a new flag from Wheelhorseman.The big ugly 520h is set aside for moving fire wood.What is really nice is that if one is down for maintenance or repair the others can step in to take the load.JMHO,JAinVA

Congrats Glenn...looks really good. Nothing a long bath, and a little detailing can't fix.

Saw one on flea bag for 9 big ones Mike...I'll just hold out till @CasualObserver sells me his.....

Holy Cow , one month it would have taken me a month to figure where to start and where to hide the cart from the Chief Financial Officer.

Just to note as I had the similar issue - hand made wiring and old rusted components cause running death after they overheated. Little can be trusted. Maybe we should just get the solenoid power supply wire to the right terminal on the key switch through a fuse, the ignition wire straight to the coil and the start wire to the solenoid - just to get it running. If the ignition switch is good, he can mow all day and address all the safeties at a later date. Coil and solenoid are good so, almost there! For me, intermittent PTO switch, overheating ammeter and ignition switch, bad regulator. The only thing still original IS the solenoid. Good luck!

I don't have a picture of that for you, but I believe the longer bolt goes toward the front with that metal clip holding the lift tube. Both bolts will be exposed in the tool box. Do not use too long of a bolt in those holes if you don't have the old ones. You could hit the differential inside. Here is a pic from the gallery without the tool box and fenders. I'm not sure, but I think you may not use that metal clip when you have the tool box and fenders. The tool box holds the lift tube in place. ????? Skeeter, you big chicken. Just make sure you take off the brake shaft side if you just want to take a look.

I was going to pull my transmission apart today to have a look inside. But jeez you guys got me worried now!

I know threads exist here concerning that spring and making new ones. A search will bring them up and they are worth taking a look at. Here is a video of me rebuilding a 10 pinion differential...also worth watching as you can see that the pinions actually "float" in this style of differential, and I give you a good look at the spring and what it does. I think Wheel Horse really liked the idea of Limited slip, and when working, it was excellent for garden tractor needs. They used it from 1967 to 1973 in 16 of the kinds of horses built during those years...usually the Raiders, but also the 867, 1067, 1267...and a couple of "no-names" in 1973.

I have a limited slip going in my 854, but I have no experience yet. From what I hear on the forum, but limited slip worked extremely well when it worked. There are quite a few people that prefer them for snow removal tasks. The down side is that it wore out and stopped working. Some say they are a bit weaker then the 8 pinions in heavy ground engagement, but should be fine for most activites. There is an internal spring that softens or wears out over time, but it looks simple enough to manufacturer? I know @wheelhorseman1000 got the 1533 bearings back into production, maybe he has a connection?

Go to the manual section, enter 31-16K804 in the search area. I did that and it brought up your manual.

Thank to all of you and I appreciate the whole Red Square community! Yes medicare -first bill was for four months with a September birthday! Having a good steak today and going to get my RJ rebuild done if possible !

Great deal, you saved another one.

Woodsman, All you need is the correct switch! The "M" terminal goes to ground inside the switch. There's no need for that on a tractor with points and coil. Unless you want to start a fire! Get the switch for points ignition. So the old switch was for magneto ignition .... you don't have magneto ignition. Just forget you ever saw that switch. Get a switch with B, S, I, A, and R. Simply put..... a wire from the battery "+" terminal to the "B" on the switch, a wire from the "S" term on the sw to the small term on the solenoid, a wire from the "I" term on the sw to the "+" on the ign coil, a wire from the "A" term on the sw to the light switch, a wire from the "R" term on the sw to the "B+" term on the regulator. Turn the key and off you go! You might want to add a few safety switches and fuses. Here's a pic of the 2 switches. Look at that... the switch on the left for magneto ignition has a terminal stamped "M" where the "G" terminal should be. And the stamp on the terminal in the "M" position has a "G" stamped into it. I guess you can't go by terminal markings! BUT you do need a switch with an "I" terminal.

Thanks guys... Gonna work on it some more today! And yes the kids help with the wheel borrow and tonka truck! Lol Forgot to share this picture