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A couple weeks back I picked up this nice, original 551. Since then I just gave it a quick bath and swapped the rims and tires with an extra set of Cubs that were sitting in my shed. This is the first electric-start Burb I've ever had and I'm really digging the turn-key. No plans to restore. It's just a nice driver with the right patina.

I posted some pics on his previous thread but don't know how many would see it . Thanks @857 horse for the tee . She had a blast today riding around today on the tractors . can't wait for next years show !

Gotta have your priorities straight....sounds like you do. Get the truck, get a job, save a few bucks each week until you have enough for the WH you desire and that's that. ( Just don't get a girlfriend...that'll foul up any WH collecting you wanna do !) Mike.....

Nice. And the tires and rims really make it look even better. The patina on that one is similar to the patina on my 551, though my 551 doesn't look that nice.

Welcome to I'm not to far from you. I have a 312-H I would sale you with deck and hub caps think it has 700ish hours on it runs good and mowes good. And is priced couple hundred dollars cheaper than the 312-8 your looking at. Private message me if ur interested.

Dennis, Dennis, Dennis. You're thinking out loud again! You want us to talk you out of something you want, not need. You came to the wrong place! We are all addicts and enablers here. I'll be the first to say: Get it! Worry about the details later. We'll help you through this.

9-6-1915 First tank produced On this day in 1915, a prototype tank nicknamed Little Willie rolls off the assembly line in England. Little Willie was far from an overnight success. It weighed 14 tons, got stuck in trenches and crawled over rough terrain at only two miles per hour. However, improvements were made to the original prototype and tanks eventually transformed military battlefields. The British developed the tank in response to the trench warfare of World War I. In 1914, a British army colonel named Ernest Swinton and William Hankey, secretary of the Committee for Imperial Defence, championed the idea of an armored vehicle with conveyor-belt-like tracks over its wheels that could break through enemy lines and traverse difficult territory. The men appealed to British navy minister Winston Churchill, who believed in the concept of a “land boat” and organized a Landships Committee to begin developing a prototype. To keep the project secret from enemies, production workers were reportedly told the vehicles they were building would be used to carry water on the battlefield (alternate theories suggest the shells of the new vehicles resembled water tanks). Either way, the new vehicles were shipped in crates labeled “tank” and the name stuck. The first tank prototype, Little Willie, was unveiled in September 1915. Following its underwhelming performance–it was slow, became overheated and couldn’t cross trenches–a second prototype, known as “Big Willie,” was produced. By 1916, this armored vehicle was deemed ready for battle and made its debut at the First Battle of the Somme near Courcelette, France, on September 15 of that year. Known as the Mark I, this first batch of tanks was hot, noisy and unwieldy and suffered mechanical malfunctions on the battlefield; nevertheless, people realized the tank’s potential. Further design improvements were made and at the Battle of Cambrai in November 1917, 400 Mark IV’s proved much more successful than the Mark I, capturing 8,000 enemy troops and 100 guns. Tanks rapidly became an important military weapon. During World War II, they played a prominent role across numerous battlefields. More recently, tanks have been essential for desert combat during the conflicts in the Persian Gulf.

It has been reported that MALWARE exists somewhere within the pages of my external website rmaynard.com. This is the location of the links to PayPal shopping carts for my brake linings and 9-pin connectors. This report was generated by GOOGLE. I believe it to be erroneous. I have taken down the website and had it thoroughly tested for Malware and Viruses. None were found, and the site has been put back up. If you click on the link and get a warning notice, GOOGLE has not removed their warning. I have requested that the site be tested by them again and the warnings removed. I can assure you that the links are safe, but if you are still wary and would like to order something, you can either get them on eBay, or contact me directly via PM or email rmaynard@qis.net

Anyone have one of these?

Last Saturday the wife and I went up to my Dads camp in Linesville to mow the grass and this was beside the road along with some vehicles for sale. I stopped and talked to the guy and found out his M.I.L. had passed and it was hers. Asking 950. We headed home then. Dummy me forgot to get his number. The wife and I decided to take a ride this morning and see if He would deal if it was still there. It was. I asked him bottom dollar and He said 500. He is a JD guy and wanted it gone. I hope I did alright. I dont no anything about these hydro's or the Onans. 1997 Some parts there Im not sure about. Looks like some rear lift stuff. Gave it a quick bath when I got it home. Pro's Very clean No rust on Tractor Runs and Idles smooth Cast Iron weights Quiet running deck All manuals Con's Holes in deck Tranny has a leak somewhere Weak battery as usual

I have been servicing and cleaning the 520 I got this past Saturday and hit a wall tonight. The PO has stripped out the 1/4 hex hole and it gave me fits. My xtractor kept bottoming out so I kept grinding some off of the bottom till I got it to bite. Took a 12'' cresent to break it loose. I put an external square drive back in it. Wow! What a chore.

This forum and the descriptions of Wheel Horse tractors has gotten me interested. I live in Kansas City, and it doesn't seem like many wheel horse tractors were sold this far west. I recently found a running Toro Wheel Horse in my price range ($800?). Does this Toro built Wheel Horse have the advantages of the originals?

I wish mine was battery powered; it has a hand crank.

I work for a small company presently that builds high-end CNC rotary tables and pallet systems. When I get on the universal cylindrical grinder, my usual tolerances are in the neighborhood of +/- 5 microns. Tables we make are accurate to around 3 arc seconds. Machines in the Shop are all ones my family collected over the course of 70 years. Grandfather and his partner opened in 1946. No digital readouts here folks, so you best know about backlash to get anything accurate. Most of the stuff is cone-pulley/flat belt. They still do good work though, as long as you know how to run them. Problem is, most everyone under the age of 55 hasn't a clue. No green "Cycle Start" buttons.

Here is the before and after of an old gearbox. Surprisingly the gears cleaned up well. Must be a good grade of steel in these old boxes....low grade steel would be pitted or just a pile of rust

I have all kinds of room, except that it is chock full of machine tools.

Craigs shed reminds me of the circus. 25 clowns would crawl out of a mini Car! I was wondering if he had a 3 level basement under that shed.

867

https://youtu.be/DgkSAMEOVVo Got the tractors all ready, so I thought I'd give you a short ride on the Lawn Ranger. . The link at the top works!! Thanks!! For your help AMC.

Happy Birthday, we are glad you were born.

I am rebuilding a 50 inch Sickle Bar Mower which I have had in my basement for about 7 years. I had some of the parts repainted years ago and I had purchased new bolts, oil seals and needed one bearing and a replacement for the yok pin which was lost. This rebuild is very picture heavy! I bought a ball bearing to use on my Wheel Horse 7-1312 50 inch Sickle Bar Mower rebuild project today. NAPA auto parts helped me order a bearing that I could use on the end of the wobble box for the shaft assembly. The original build on this wobble box used a brass bushing and a needle bearing on the end with two snap rings and an oil seal. If you look at the Sickle Bar Mower Manual it will list these as (Oil Seal 1482, Ball Bearing 5596, and brass sleeve bearing) . Somewhere along the line of previous ownership (This Sickle Bar Mower was made from 1969 through 1972) someone installed a sealed ball bearing. I do not think it was used but was placed on the shaft assembly to replace the bushing , bearing and oil seal. So I went looking for a replacement to try the same thing again. The old bearing had a number on the race of the bearing but was very difficult to read. It looked like 3303, 3203, 5303 or 6203. We settled on 6203 and ordered a 6203 J which showed it was sealed on one side. When it arrived (four hours later from Indianapolis by delivery truck) it was not sealed. So I indicated it had to be sealed. After a few more checks on the computer the NAPA counterman went back in the stockroom and brought out aa 6203 RSJ bearing . Just the right size and a seal on one side. I also went to the D and E Machine Shop north of Greencastle to have the new replacement Yoke Pin (Part # 2691) made for the wobble box. It is not going to be cheap but it is essential for the wobble box to function properly. The 28th and 29th photos show the Yoke that the Yoke Pin will ride in and that also goes thru the assembly shaft in the center of the wobble box. The 22nd and 31st photo shows the shaft assembly. One of the photos shows the wobble box with the shaft assembly turned around the wrong way. The drive pulley and the drive shaft assembly hole where the drive pin sets were turned around for some reason on the wobble box. I may have done this 7 years ago but I sure did not remeber this. I did notice when gettign ready to reassble though and decided I should make sure all the oil seals , bearings and parts where in good order. Made a gasket for the wobble box top and I have two new belts for the mower. Can't wait to get this one done and running! This sickle bar mower will fit on the 6 3/4 inch frame tractors.

Buying one in good condition from forum member with good rep is an excellent way to start in this hobby.

Buy it! I've got two, one with a home made 3 point - but then it did have the rocker and draw bar. the trans split pretty easy, I had to replace a few bearings in mine when it arrived. I think my GT14 thread covered it mark

, what I could with all those machinists tools (before the accident) , that is my dream shop . Oh how I miss the days of running my Unison O.D. grinder holding +or-.0005 . What that sucked but I sure learned a lot . Made tooling for Snap-On, Eaton , Ford , A.C. Delco spark plugs , Federal Screw Works , and many others .

What do they say Don, "the proof is in the pudding". I'm not sure what that means, but the proof is in the owners manual.

Took a few pictures, these haven't been posted yet. Almost as quiet as a wind turbine. Interesting mod no matter what color. Nice old binders . Multi function Cub, Ready when the time is right.

Lots of you know me by WheelHorseKid1843, but that's changed. I've been advertising that I'm looking for a wheel horse and lots of you have been helping me out and giving me great offers. The truth is I really can't buy one, I need to save for a truck and I don't have the room for one anymore. It's my fault and I apologize. I hope I haven't come off as a tire kicker buyer or anything like that because I've put off quite a few offers. I've changed my name because I'm no longer gonna be like that and I hope I haven't made anyone mad or frustrated. On a side note I may be getting two of my grandfathers wheel horses to keep at his house,one is a lawn ranger and I can't recall the other one, probably won't happen until next summer though.

Jack, hey there Mr. Lucky. What a score. Clean rig at a super price. Think about Matts pedal kit. Boy or boy, a nice cab and a snow eating 2 stage, your set. Best of luck. Makes me wish I never sold mine. Glenn

If you like "ancient", it would be right up your alley. There are 4 lathes, three mills, a surface grinder, 2 shapers, three drill presses, a die filer, two upright, and one horizontal saws, two hydraulic presses, one Bliss punch press, couple wire feed welders, a TIG, and a very ancient Hobart "bomb" welder from 1937 (still use it on occasion). Other stuff too, such as sanders, scales, etc. Even have an aluminum casting room for green sand molding, although I didn't set it back up after I moved the Shop in 1998. All the stuff is there though. The machines are all American made, and date from around 1895 (one of the shapers) to 1978 when we got our last new lathe, a Rockwell. The "H" frame press in the center of the photo I picked up in the mid 1990s. Almost everything is under power, and in operation, although I rarely use some things. The Bliss punch press hasn't been turned on since 1998, and the Westinghouse wire feed welder, one of the first made, hasn't been ran since the early 90s. When I closed the doors in '98, didn't have the heart to scrap it. So I built a building and moved everything in. Wired most stuff up, installed a phase converter, hung lights, then locked the doors and moved. Didn't go back for about 9 years. Fortunately, my neighbors watched the place, and nobody messed with it. Began going out occasionally on the weekends a few years ago, and started to clean up and oil. Was out last weekend and mowed waist high weeds with the 312-8. Since the temperatures have moderated somewhat, will start going back regularly to get the property cleared of brush, wood cut, and get some of the things fixed that need attending to. Been rebuilding fluorescent lamps (many are from the 50s, and you just can't get that quality anymore, so I install new ballasts, strip, and paint them up), stringing more conduit, and try to get the molding room back in operation.

Nothing like old school. Wayne

All shined up and no place to go.Next to start on the patching of the deck. I have 1 more thing to do to the first and that is set the toe-in. It is out and you can tell it.

Almost complete now. Just need to order decals and paint the wheel horse lettering on front of hood.

This operator manual shows basically the same diagram for the model 1-0402 Charger 12. Uses the same engine and breakerless magneto ignition. Garry

UPDATE - Today I picked up some new hoses and a couple of o-rings. Denny Clarke gave me a bag of large o-rings in case I needed to rebuild any of the cylinders (thanks Denny), but I needed four one inch o-rings which act as oil seals around the 1" shafts. I knew that one of the cylinders was bad, but I didn't know which one, so I rebuilt all of them. Not hard, just time consuming. So six hours and 16 o-rings later, all the cylinders are rebuilt and back on. So, the moment of truth...does it work? Stay tuned for the rest of the story.

The seats are steel rings pressed into the aluminum block. The different amounts of thermal expansion can cause them to loosen. Once loose, the block wears away and may become damaged beyond repair. That's why you don't want to continue operation. This valve seat problem seems to be the worst problem with the otherwise good Onan engines. There are .010" oversize seats available and there is a company that makes seats that are much larger. Either will require machining to install. Some have even welded the block in severe cases. Some automotive machine shops are good at doing the repair, others not so much. If you are very, very lucky, a simple valve grind will be your fix. To prevent future valve seat failures, you should insure that the oil filter mount is not weeping oil and causing dirt buildup. Keep the cylinder fins clean. There should be a rubber grommet, (often missing) around the oil filter to prevent cooling air loss there.

Got a chance to buy a 1970 GT14. Appears complete but no 3 point linkage at all, which does concern me. Also needs the rear axle bearings replaced. I really need yet another project that I can't possibly get to! How long to replace those bearings on a GT14? And am I right in thinking that since I hardly ever see a GT14 for sale around here that I'll NEVER see the 3 point parts either? I really don't need a GT14, but what the heck does that have to do with anything? My only small 3 point tractor is my PK. Then again I don't have any small 3 point implements either! Only big ones for the TC-35. Why would I even want another tractor for implements I don't have or need. Insidious disease! Oh well, please tell me that the GT14 axle bearings are impossible to replace or that it's just not worth it. Thanks!

There are some files that basically summarize the models, and the wheel horse book covers it pretty well, also. You can't go wrong with this group of folks on the forum. A great deal of info, and folks that can help. The 312 H (hydro) and 312-8 (manual) are great tractors, and will do most everything. The later ones with a few exceptions were basically the same WH models, but had TORO added, due to the purchase. Many attachments fit a wide variety of model, within the common group. There should be a serial number on the left side of the fender, under the seat. I agree, the H is better, especially if already worked on by a good guy. (consider the matt hydro foot pedal kit ) Who knows about the rental. Their price seems high. Condition is key, since some of the parts can get expensive. Deck spindles can run $125 each, so the better condition, and completeness to start, the better. Some parts are still available from TORO, but getting fewer and more expensive each year. Many folks have parts, so if you need something, you can usually find it. Some areas have lots of horses, and others very few. This greatly affects pricing, and availability. They are very sturdy, and well built.

This deal sounds better........

Stuck oil control rings most likely. But it's also possible the crankcase breather is stuck open/clogged up. Easy check is looking at the air filter and it's housing to see if oil is present. If dry run engine with air cleaner/filter cover off and see if any blowby is coming out the breather tube. Blowby means stuck oil rings. Under $100 for a set of STD rings, head gaskets and oil pan gasket. No reason to part out a nice tractor due to a stuck oil ring. Might get lucky and it's just the breather that's gunked up.

You can't mow grass, or work on a Horse. without ample "snake bite" medicine.

I've not changed the bearings. But it would be same as the other Sundstrands so you will likely find more info if you broaden your search. @953 nut showed that it's fairly straightforward modification to make other Sundstrands work in GT14. if it's just the seals then that's easy. As for 3 points, you don't see them often and when you do they are ~ 300 and almost never have the draw bar to use common lift cylinder. A couple people are reproducing them. Lowell, vendor @wheelhorseman1000that sells cables and stuff is planning to reproduce them. He is already reproducing selling the draw bar. Did you pick this one up in my neck of the woods?

https://youtu.be/DgkSAMEOVVo Got it this time AMC

@N3PUY Lend your neighbor an anvil , maybe it will be in one piece when you get it back. I don't understand people who abuse equipment .

Getting a little assistance from the grandcritter.

I wonder if the guy who bought the tiller is still trying to figure out how to mount it.

Hi All I am almost done with this project there are a few details left. I just order the PTO knob and new throttle and choke handles and I need to figure out how to clamp the end of my throttle cable correctly. The engine started well but the governor is running at to high of RPMs maybe just a adjustment?. Here are the latest Pics.

Decals came today for motor.