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This will be my last build. As you can se up to this point it is a lot of work doing it this way But the end result is very nice looking tractor. I hope you enjoy the video.

Well guys I'm all packed up and the wheel horse cart, C-81 and suburban are stuffed in the box truck, ranger and 753 will be coming down Sunday on my second trip down. Oo and my kids + niece were spending there last days together for awhile so they posed with the tractors for a good bye picture!

Met a man at a gas station on my way home from a show. He was checking out my Horses and asked if I was interested in some engines. Never discussed a price but I was curious so I stopped by his house to night to see what he had. Turns out he had 2 K181's and some Briggs engines after I picked what I wanted he's said "enjoy" and wouldn't take any money. Tried arguing this fact but he would have nothing to do with it. All 4 engines turn over and are complete

Hey guys... Tonight was the night. I opened the fuel valve, sprayed a couple shots of starter fluid into the air intake, and turned the key. It fired right up. A couple more shots of starter fluid and it was running on its own. Pulled the throttle in and out a few times and it responded perfectly. I pushed the hydro lever into reverse to test the trans and I got nothing. Moved it forward and got nothin. I was just about to get upset that it wasn't working when I thought I better check the parking brake. Yep, it was engaged. What relief. Now to complete the final assembly and the finishing touches/touch ups.

I used a Gardner Spring #37083GS from McMaster-Carr. Their number is 9433K111. I actually ordered them for the PTO on my 500 Special and found that they are a close match for the clutch spring on my Suburban 400. Another plus for me is that they are stainless steel.

Could always take it to these guys... Seriously check the local car & motorcycle shops they may do stuff like that or more important knows some one that does in your area.

Used my Toro Wheelhorse 12-32XL to hide my Seadoos in the backyard in prep for storm HERMINE.

There is a new Wheel Horser on the way!

Welcome aboard . Perhaps you could mock up a piece of 1/4" flat plate using the existing hole for an anchor point & butt it up to the backside for when you're stopping . Looks like it's chewing the heck out of that rear pan . If it's for light duty only . Just a thought .

Wheel Horse # 1014 spring replaced by 83-2730 4.500" between hooks, .070" wire, .520" coil OD, .380 coil ID, 3.570" coil length, 52 + 2 half coils Garry

On line catalogs; desk top, lap top, I pad or Smart phone? That could be messy!

Ha, I know nothing!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but certain things I'm comfortable with. If it was 6000 lbs with someone working underneath it, get an engineer! But carrying 300 lbs at 7 mph, Duct tape and vice grips will hold that. LoL Don't worry too much about that brace, not that much structure to it unless you're carrying 600 lbs and bouncing full speed through some ruts for a 100 yards. It definitely has a purpose but it's made the easiest way, located in the easiest spot for manufacturing and it looks good there. Moving it a little will not compromise it's purpose IMO.

The early hydrostatic transmissions used "dynamic" braking. Neutral is your brake. It will have a parking brake that locks a gear inside the tranny.

9-1-1968 Clown College opens Clown College was the brainchild of Irvin Feld, the owner of Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus, and longtime Ringling clown and front man Bill Ballantine. In 1968, Ringling had only a handful of clowns in their alleys, most of them over fifty years of age. It was clear that these performers wouldn't be able to go on forever. But there was a dearth of suitable replacements at that time. So Feld decided to create a school to train a new generation in this ancient art form. Feld also saw the potential public relations opportunity in having a place that could become the Mecca of clowning in America. In addition, he wanted to use the school as another way of keeping his show more attractive to audiences than his competition, and have a place where he could guarantee getting an endless supply of new talent. In 1984, after Feld's death, Kenneth Feld, his son, took over production of Feld Entertainment and the Ringling shows. He continued to operate the school through the 1997 session, and then closed Clown College because the needs of the show had changed. The school was no longer profitable, nor necessary, as clowning had moved back into the mainstream of performing arts. Also, with nearly fifteen hundred graduates, many of whom were teaching others the lessons they had learned, and with a home videotape produced by Ringling and made at Clown College in 1986 titled "Be A Clown," which featured many of the techniques used in the school's training sessions, Ringling Bros and Barnum & Bailey Circus officially discontinued their Clown College just shy of its 30th year. Currently, clowns for the Ringling shows are hired based on standard auditions, much like any theatrical production. After 25 years the college moved from Venice, FL to Baraboo, Wisconsin, hometown of the Ringling Bros. After three years in Baraboo the college moved to Sarasota where it was based for two years, closing after the graduation of the 1997 class.

HAPPY SEPTEMBER EVERYONE.

I think we`ve got a few graduates on this site....

This is the pathway current would need to follow to get from the hood support to the engine and then the starter. paint over any one of the connections between the body panels and you lose ground to your block

I'll take a stab at it .... A T-Rex eating a prawn .

Besides driving the tractor on the highway, the most useful and enjoyable thing a party hardy red neck can do is get the ironing board that we all have stored in the closet behind the 12 gauge double barrel shotgun out and get it ready for the holidays....... no turkey emoticons??? Here are just a few ideas....... I always ask the relatives to bring their own ironing boards and beer and sleeping bags, bed roll or cot as well. The out house is always fully stocked with Sears and JC Penney catalogs. And if the indians set the telephone poles on fire, get ready for a great old time!!! Bring the camera!

Looking at your photo The red wires go to the 2 terminals farthest apart at the top for the starter circuit There are 2 black wires going to each terminal that are closest together in the bottom row for the ignition circuit Garry Adding This 105303 connector fits this switch and still available from Toro https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/parts/105303/

Don't think it's going to make any difference but it will change the RPMs a bit. My factory pump is lined up with the inner pulley with all the factory brackets. MISTAKE --- My factory pump is on the outer pulley too. Backhoe pump on the inner pulley. Still don't think it matters much especially if you need the room.

As oldredrider said the transmission performs the braking function; on the right side down low you have a parking brake but chances are it has failed to function years ago (not the best engineering) I use the bucket of the FEL as my parking brake.

Don't worry Bob...sounds like 'fish knows a thing or two about structural Or does he?? 'Sides when you are challenged in the art of joining metals via electricity a project such as this can be difficult...ask me how I know!

Thanks Walt. I already explained my thoughts and differences between the hoarding vs. collecting, and I believe I'm a collector although it doesn't appear that way from the pictures! A. I should have a second barn, however it's not due to wanting more tractors. It's for my sleeping arrangements if I find myself buying another tractor. At least that's what she's threatening anyhow. B. No worries about the scarceness of Wheel Horse's or parts, as I'm not planning on starting a collection of Wheel Horse's anytime soon. If I do however, I will give you guys plenty of notice before hand! C. If you are wanting to invest, then put all your money on Tallmans Ag. Paint, as they are the only paint manufacturer that I'll use. Be sure to put 50% in the John Deere Green shade and the other 50% in the John Deere Yellow shade.

Shamu sticking his tounge out.

Good lord man! Lyme can present in SO many ways! We've had dogs with it so I know it's around. Even thought I had it once but the test was negative. Got bit twice this spring but no further issues... Hope you get rid if it and all the symptoms! Very scary disease!

Here's a quick drawing, No welding necessary. The brace should probably be slotted to adjust belt tension. main pump plate 3/16 or 1/4" flat bar. Might not have to be as wide if you drill pump mount holes vertical instead of horizontal

Bring in the clowns.

Welcome to the Machine Thought I would post up some recent modifications to The Machine prior to up coming plow season. After a good season of plowing last year it was time for some upgrades, not because what I had did not work, just wanted try to make it better. So I started with some new Firestone 16-6.5-8 tri ribs, and 23-10.5-12 23 degree bar tires, added an 1054 hy pump, with new seals and spring, welded cylinder rebuild with new hyd lines and lift cable and adjustable tie rods from @wheelhorseman1000. Also ordered up a 12" shear and moleboard from Brinly, and to hold the front end found an old cub that needed to be squashed for the weight on the from to hold all them ponies down. 5th( don't know how it moved it was 1st) picture is last years, all others are with modifications. Bring on plowing season.

How much actually went on the tractor Bob...

Thanks guys! You are all awesome!! Almost to Cleveland now..

For got to post this pic of dueling steam engines doing a spark show. The one on the left is a Nichols & Shepard, the one on the right is a 2/3 scale Case.

Lots of great vintage tin there! You done Good.

Richard!

I'm never that lucky but would you mind if others (who shall remain nameless) might use parts of that same story. I mean it could help explain a few new wheel horse purchases if you know what I mean... Thanks in advance

The top view of your transaxle tells me it is the early Sundstrand 3100077 found on the 10/1277, not the 90-2046 found on '68 and later. The 90-2046 has the tow valve on the top,yours does not. I guess it could have been a 10/1276 also, who cares, it is still a great worker.

That only works if you put the chair on top of the board! It doesn't work the other way around!

hi all, here's a link to a slide show i got from a guy i play videogames and talk tractors with he apologizes for the few blurry photos http://s1346.photobucket.com/g00//user/Jakalth/slideshow/pioneer power show

Thats a good deal for 700 maybe you could offer him 600. The engine is a great engine, they go forever and parts and attachments are everywhere for it. Thanks, dave

Good evening, I write as a new member from England. I have several hydrostatic Wheelhorses, two 418C's and a 417A. The transmission drive belt from the Eaton hydrostatic to the Kohler Magnum 18hp engine is clearly shown as a 108501 on Toro Partsviewer. I also have a pretty immaculate 1980 C125 8 speed ( Model 01-12K801 ) but the transmission drive belt lists several different ones. The front runner is 7473 but the above 108501 is also listed along with 106496 and 107939. The 108501 is 81" long, the 7473 is 82". Any of you specialist guys know which is best as I don't want it be too tight but also not flop about either? The C125 also eats it's mower drive belts from PTO pulley to deck. ( using 108834 but PartsViewer for the model shows 108334 - a misprint I think as all other 42" Rear discharge decks seem to use the same PTO to deck number 108834 ). The front idler pulleys and pto bearings all seem fine but looking from above from the front the belt it seems pulled over slightly towards the engine. The belts wear their sides then break. I suspect engine mounts as the Kohler 301 does vibrate a bit, particularly at idle. My local garden machine expert has also mentioned the clutch bearings getting too hot and ruining the belts. Anyone had the problem please? Any ideas? It seems from both the above Wheelhorse were clever with their original design in that the distance from the pulley of whatever Kohler engine is fitted to transmission drive pulley is fitted is the same regardless of engine model. Also all belts feeding the rear discharge 42" deck seem to be the same regardless of engine model. Greetings from Brexit and am in awe of the knowledge on your site! Bill

I just got done wrestling off a drive pulley, fly wheel. Ordinary pullers did fine. Then I spent two days fighting with GT14 hubs. Once again the hydraulic puller has risen to one of the best purchases I've made this past year. It took all 10 tons of muscle as well as heat and Kroil along with my own stubbornness but the hubs lost the fight again.

Well, to start with, this tractor is big and powerful and it is free. My only requirement is to mow a lot with it about three times a year. This could work out because this beastie could live at my farm that takes two hours to mow and is a nice motorcycle ride away. I figure that with 26 horsepower and a 56" cut, it is worthwhile to at least try to get it running. I tried to get a picture off the internet, but could not find much for the MTD [Huskee} 808K First, the spark coils are blitzed. That is what happens when you hook the hot wire to the ground on the solenoid. The ground wire to the coils melted, but I found two non-briggs coils for 36 bucks. So far so good. While waiting for the coils to arrive, I cleaned the carb. It looks like a bowl seal will do the job. The mower was a grimy mess, so I removed an engine killing mouse nest and applied penetrating oil to every fastener I could find. All the sheet metal came off so I could get at things and the mower looked reasonably simple with modular assemblies. Kerosine and a paintbrush followed with Murphy's oil soap and easy rinsing got the thing looking pretty good. this mower has sat in a damp if not wet floor outbuilding for most of its life, and the underside of the deck is pretty rusty as are the pulleys. I just made sense to remove the deck and get it down to the frame and engine. When I noticed how rusty the pulleys were, I figured that they would tear the belts up and a wire wheel and silicone grease would be needed to put them back in shape. the variable drive pulley was removed and the sheave freed up so the variable ratio drive would work. Not even in the same league as a WH tractor with gear or hydro drive, so I wonder how all that engine power could be used to pull anything, So really it is probably just strong enough to pull the tractor itself and the mower deck. You could tell that the Mower had a recent belt change, but the main belt that drives the transmission from the engine pulley had not. First, I got the electric clutch and mower pulley removed , and the operators manual stated that now I could change the transmission drive pulley located above it. Not a chance If it did not slide off easily, it was not coming off.. The frame is but a single stamping and included in that stamping is ears that point down and surround the drive pulley on three sides to keep the belt on the pulley. So these sadistic engineers made it impossible to change a drive belt without pulling the engine. I guess in their world, no pulley ever gets dirt or rust in the keyway and they just slide right off... . The drive pulley was already bent from someone else attempting to pry it off .It was only a fifteen minute job to get out the four engine bolts and manage the engine and drive belt through the frame of the tractor, but i bet that it would be an hour and a half of shop time. That is why these mowers get junked. At least I figured out that the engine had to be pulled to make things happen and it was possible to get at the mounting bolts with a ratchet. I tapped the bent spots on the pulley decent enough to use because the metal was pretty soft To make it possible for the next belt change, those fixed ears that surround the pulley on three sides will get removed with a cutting wheel and removable angle iron guards will be installed in their place to keep the belt from slipping off the pulley while the machine is idling. I will also add a front bumper of sorts to protect the fragile muffler mounted between the front wheels.The mower looks clean and would pass for a well cared for machine when I am done. Maybe I could trade it for a nice 10 or 12 HP old school Red machine? I was glad to have a ceiling hoist as putting the front of the tractor straight up in the air made it much easier to work on. I still think my 43 and 45 year old Horses will easily outlast the MTD, but having a big pasture mower might be OK to use in a pinch and not make me cry is someone steals it.

An 1 7/8" ball will work for a 2" coupler safely for low speed maneuvers and you can get a smaller shank. I move my 18' car hauler around my place with no issues.

My friends mean to say more.....but they type kinna slow....... We wish you both all the best.....my 4th grand child will be here about a week before christmas..... Anything on the right side of the map ,,should you need it.....just call,,,,we dont use storks anymore..... We have come of age....we have flip phones !!!!! with LARGE TYPE,,,,,,,,oN ANOTHER NOTE.....Hope the hub is behaving....Mine is still not on !!!! In any event...........stay safe.....keep smiling......and the best of luck with the BEST News we can ever hear..... Pals..and some,Grand Parents !!!!!! Howard 857 Horse. in Va

Thats what I am currently doing!! Thanks. Randy

Safe travels

Anyway you can get some from the side , of the whole tractor ? you'll find your answer here soon !

The 314-8 is an awesome tractor. I have one and it has become my go to tractor for almost everything. I have used a mold board plow with it in my garden, I cut my 2 acres of grass with it, this past winter I plowed my 200' long driveway with it. It doesn't bog down and uses very little fuel. I can get well over 2 and a half grass cuttings on one tank of gas (I don't run out but it gets pretty low). I bought mine about a year ago and really didn't have plans on it becoming my favorite but over time it has become my favorite. I think that $500-$600 is fair. snow blade=$150 Kohler 14 = $100 chains = $50 tractor = $200-$300