Leaderboard

Almost everyone is familiar with the 7416 Escutcheon Plate found on the front of many models of the mid to late 70's horses. My 1977 B-100's have them. They are still available from Toro, and are always available at the big WHCC show. But how many of you have ever seen a 9799 found on some 1971 and 72's? This New Old Stock plate is one of those NO LONGER AVAILABLE items, and rarely are they found in this condition. Just thought you might be interested in seeing a perfect condition one.

We did the mid year service to the Wifes tractor this evening. Got a bath and new oil and greased. Deck got power washed and sharp blades. This ought to keep her working for the rest of the grass season. Lol. Just passed 1900 hours this week.

As many of you know , this hobby can be real addicting . Heck I can't even ride or work on them . It's hard to own just one , as I was warned by my fellow horseoholics . Now my barn is filling up with tractors (running and projects) and parts . Even though I don't need anyone projects , I did purchase a 65 Simplicity Broadmoor for cheap (got to have at least one orange one) and hopefully an A111 that may just get turned into a power wheel chair . I can't pick them up till next weekend. This brings me to why I'm writing this post . I find myself scouring the websites every day searching for that elusive deal . Last night I was trolling through CL from Iowa to Maine and Michigan to Florida . I've come across some rare items (a Sububan with front mount sicklebar project for one) RJ's , Sububan's , round hoods , short frames , long frames , and the list goes on . Some smoking deals and others leaving me wondering what their smoking ! If I run across something I know someone is looking for , I try to let them know about it (I hope I don't offend anyone doing this) . So is this just me , or do you find yourself doing the same things ? What's your thoughts ? How do you satisfied your addiction ? Oh , the life of a WHEEL HORSE junky ! Mods feel free to move post if not in appropriate spot .

Been a long time since I posted, been busy with the grandcritter, and other things. Wrote about getting this very nice 1985 312-8 back in 2014. Really didn't have to do all that much, other than a good cleaning, and basic maintenance, then replace all the little things that break over time with usage. Seat was replaced with an OEM-looking one I got from the 2014 Wheel Horse Show in Pennsylvania. Exactly like the original, sans the horse logo. Photo was taken yesterday after I gave the tractor a bath. Mow with it every week. Motor smokes slightly, and has some blowby. As far as I can tell, it has never been overhauled. Will try to do that this winter. Original plan was to do an overhaul last winter, but the thing just continues to run good. As I wrote in another post, I just smile whenever I hop on to do the lawn. Never knew a machine/tractor could give so much enjoyment.

My 3 520H's, a 520HC, a 210-5, and a 111-6 were very dusty so they all got a wash. They will dry in the sun then get put away for a while as my lawn is quite dry and not growing much right now.

Thank you, fellows, for this big feedbag of food for thought. I believe that efficiency, in mowing grass as in everything else, is the right balance between speed and quality. I'm trying to choose the right tool for the anticipated task--in this case, the maintenance of small to medium size residential lawns, to help me achieve that balance within a specific budget, and to make a reasonable profit. That, and a fact that I like older, simpler, well-built, American-made stuff. I drove a 1965 Chevrolet one-ton truck, with a 230 inline-six engine and a four-speed transmission, for twelve years, hauling stone for walls and patios, etc., and gravel and granite dust, full time. When I bought that truck I was told by pretty much everyone that it was too old, that the motor would be too weak, that I needed a metal dump bed.The truck turned out to be a tool well matched to the task, at a minimal expense, since it was simple enough mechanically that I could do all of the maintenance and most of the repairs on it myself. I loved driving it. So, a Wheel Horse is still a consideration. Again, thanks for your comments.

1960 suburban 400

This is my powered bagger on my 520HC. It is on a 48" deck but will also work on a 42" deck. Blower is powered by a double pulley on the right hand spindle. Works great for grass and also grinds up leaves nicely in the fall.

My daughter Sofia and a 1964 854

8-5-1914 First electric traffic signal installed The world’s first electric traffic signal is put into place on the corner of Euclid Avenue and East 105th Street in Cleveland, Ohio, on this day in 1914. In the earliest days of the automobile, navigating America’s roads was a chaotic experience, with pedestrians, bicycles, horses and streetcars all competing with motor vehicles for right of way. The problem was alleviated somewhat with the gradual disappearance of horse-drawn carriages, but even before World War I it had become clear that a system of regulations was necessary to keep traffic moving and reduce the number of accidents on the roads. As Christopher Finch writes in his “Highways to Heaven: The AUTO Biography of America” (1992), the first traffic island was put into use in San Francisco, California in 1907; left-hand drive became standard in American cars in 1908; the first center painted dividing line appeared in 1911, in Michigan; and the first “No Left Turn” sign would debut in Buffalo, New York, in 1916. Various competing claims exist as to who was responsible for the world’s first traffic signal. A device installed in London in 1868 featured two semaphore arms that extended horizontally to signal “stop” and at a 45-degree angle to signal “caution.” In 1912, a Salt Lake City, Utah, police officer named Lester Wire mounted a handmade wooden box with colored red and green lights on a pole, with the wires attached to overhead trolley and light wires. Most prominently, the inventor Garrett Morgan has been given credit for having invented the traffic signal based on his T-shaped design, patented in 1923 and later reportedly sold to General Electric. Despite Morgan’s greater visibility, the system installed in Cleveland on August 5, 1914, is widely regarded as the first electric traffic signal. Based on a design by James Hoge, who received U.S. patent 1,251,666 for his “Municipal Traffic Control System” in 1918, it consisted of four pairs of red and green lights that served as stop-go indicators, each mounted on a corner post. Wired to a manually operated switch inside a control booth, the system was configured so that conflicting signals were impossible. According to an article in The Motorist, published by the Cleveland Automobile Club in August 1914: “This system is, perhaps, destined to revolutionize the handling of traffic in congested city streets and should be seriously considered by traffic committees for general adoption.”

That reminds me of that old wanted add: Looking for a good wife. Must have own tractor, fishing pole and gun. Send pictures of tractor, fishing gear and gun.

ACman I fit your description of a "Horseoholic". . And to tell you the truth I'm not looking for the cure either.

my dads 1962 502 wheel horse pulling the 64 or 65 round corner typer dump trailer.

Picked up a cultivator and a disk for 40 bucks a piece! Unsure of the brand of both but they are both still solid! Sorry for the side ways pic! Still learning haha

ACMan, I'm with ya...I find myself scouring all the usual places for deals -- and I find them often but I just don't have the space. I need a barn! My wife will come by my chair in the evening and if I have my iPad on me, she'll say, what are you looking at, tractors? She's aware of my addiction. I actually turned my brother-in-law on to Wheel Horses...When I see something that might work for him, I'll let him know. When he goes to get one, I'll go with him. It'll help me and him -- I get the 'fix' of buying another tractor without buying another tractor and he'll get the little bit of experience I have with them. It's a win-win! Lol

That's the same thing I have heard people say about my 66 F350 with the 352 and 4 speed that I use for hauling brush and firewood off of location on tree jobs...the old girl may be slow but she always starts right up and works hard until the job is done...and when repairs do need to be made...parts are relatively cheap and I can do the work myself.

Ok , I have two ideas with this A series mower but , I have to get it first (all I really need is the tub) . Here's a pic , but that's a whole new thread I'll start , If all goes planned . I guess , that's another way I feed my addiction . Just thinking of different costume builds I could do just with all the parts I have . Wondering if a 516H trans would fit behind a 953 frame . Also trying to learn all the different models and differences . It can be anything .

I am like you to. We are moving, I dont know where yet. So the question becomes what kind of storage space will I have. Until I know that, I have to control myself. lol Good post, good topic. Glenn

@GlenPettit, Hope you had a great birthday,

Thank you very much for the compliment guys. If you want to see what the tractor looked like when I got it, take a gander at my album. Thing was awful. Just goes to show what one can do with a little elbow grease and some love...

I have a lot of mowing, going all out, it takes me 4 hours to mow, trim and do a bit of string trimmer work. I use a 520H with a 60" deck. Last summer I hired a mowing service to take care of the yard while I was on vacation. Two workers, using zero turn mowers, unloaded, mowed, trimmed, string trimmed and were back on the road in 45 minutes. Bill was $85 per mowing. Only thing is, it looked like crap.

I tried to post these separate for voting purposes, but the system merged the posts together. These are 3 posts of the restoration of my 1983 GT-1142 I did this summer after my father passed away. I grew up on this tractor and now it looks like it did in 1983, minus the deck which rotted out a few years ago. More photos are in the galleries. My personal favorite is those close up of the left side and the way the light rays are.

This is my submission. Waiting on a new home, like we find them, like so many others we've found. 72 Charger 12.

My kids Lillian and ford in the wagon with Rosie (C-81) pulling. Next is lillian posing on her C-81 and last is Lillian on my 753

In order from Left to Right: 1966 1076, 1961 401, 1965 855, 1958 RJ 58, 1963 953

So I saw an XI on Craigslist that looked like it was in decent condition for a decent price, this week. It just so happens I was his first message of hundreds that day! As usual the ad pictures made it look MUCH nicer than it was, I was pretty disappointed. Poor thing was so neglected, but I didn't need another project. I was ready to walk and I told the guy as much. He said "make me an offer, I am buying a zero turn tomorrow" so I made a low offer (I cant totally walk, but I really didnt want another project!) and he declined. I was just about back to the car and he caved and sold it to me! The positives I saw was the that hours were not terribly high (840) and there was not an ounce of rust in any of the usual spots. The paint is faded but no rust. It ran very smooth. The negatives: steering was very loose, wouldnt lift the deck very much, the whole bottom side was covered in oil and grease from engine and transmission leaks, grill and bumper cover cracked... the list of minutia goes on... I finally got a chance to look at it tonight and I am excited. These things are BEASTS, those frame rails are awe inspiring for the size of tractor. One of the lift rings for the deck arm is broke clean off, thus it wouldn't lift the 60" deck with one ring. The pin holding the back end of the steering cylinder is totally missing (HOW was this thing still steering at all!?). I am going to give it a degreasing / pressure washing, figure out how bad it is to clean out the tins, and maybe some color sanding/polishing. To all the XI owners: What would be your recommended things to check/change besides the usual fluids/filters and tins? I know I read I have to pull the engine to clean the engine shroud, right? How bad is it? Thanks for stopping by!

At 1st my wife really never said anything about my WH addiction and I brought home what I wanted and when I wanted, no problem. Well, now she has her own GT (Gilson) and is complaining that the barn is too full for her tractor to safely be in there, so she wants ME to thin MY herd!

Just buy em and I'll "store them" for a few years until you're settled.

Yes , it always pays to have a partner in crime . Me and the cuz share the stable , and we definitely feed each other's purchases .

Sounds like your getting quite a collection. It can be addicting. I have to refrain myself because of storage. I do have an xi on the way though supposedly. Good Luck!

That tractor is a LOOKER for sure Jack! I bet your wife just loves to use it!

My grand daughter want a lawn skiff. lol Wayne

You can hang the wheels pretty much anyway you want. I've done both, through the valve stem and around the wheel like a tube would be. As far as getting into all of the little spaces, it's just like painting. It all depends on the prep work, how much powder is sprayed and where. Comes down to who is doing the work.

You keep it looking like that and you might get another 1900 out of her... the tractor not the wife!! Goes to show you what happens when you take are of stuff!

HorseSense Based on your comments that you intend to concentrate on small to medium size residential lawns, I'd recommend the following: 1. Small zero turn, 42"-54" with bagger unit if you think you need to ride (which you won't) or, 2. Walk behind with bagger unit and stand-on sulky 36"-54". And with either choice a self propelled walk behind with bagger for smaller yards or tight spaces i.e. Narrow gated yards, traffic islands etc, gas string trimmer, edger and back pac blower. Don't buy the cheap brands for the small equipment. Look at Toro, Stihl etc. You may not need a bagger for every lawn but those that get a lot of fertilizer and water will need it. Or if the home owner is picky about their lawn like I am. Otherwise you'll be double cutting which adds time to the job and will increase the thatch layer. The bagger will also assist you in spring and fall cleanups. Especially when it comes time to remove leaves. If your your doing this part-time you could consider a residential z but a commercial model from one of the major manufacturers would be a better investment. Same for the walk behind. My first choice would be the walk behind if your lawns are going to be less than an acre in size. If they are on the small size you won't use the sulky but on larger lawns you have the option to use it. If the majority of lawns are larger than 1 acre, like large estate size or large commercial them I'd go zero turn. As stated before, you will reduce you time in half using a z-turn or walk behind vs a tractor. Regarding the small equipment. A string trimmer, stick edger and blower will help put the finishing touch to all your hard work and keep you clients happy. I selected a back pack blower over a handheld blower for several reasons. Because it moves a lot more air then the handheld it will disperse clumps of grass better and quicker so if you get a lawn that has areas that clump up you can just blow the clumps around and disperse them. It's also quicker for cleaning hard surface areas such as driveways walkways and paver surfaces and if you're getting into fall cleanup it's faster for leaf removal then the handheld blower and it's less fatigue on your arm and hand. My opinions are based on my experience. I operated my own lawn care business for several years on the side back in the early 80s. I tried the small tractors with bagging units but found I spent a lot of time turning around and they were slower than a z or walk behind which cost me money. I spent 30 years of my professional career operating and maintaining parks and athletic fields. At the end of my career we used zero turn mower's exclusively. Pm me if you have any questions. Dave

Be careful with that thing. I see it has so much power it jerked your drive way apart.

Our neighbor has mowed our yard a couple times with his Toro Zero-Turn after the engine blew on my 1277. While he was able to mow it in about half the time, it looked nowhere near as good as when I mowed it...and my tractor is just shy of 50 yrs old. My boss even told me the other day he wished I would hurry and get my tractor back together, it did so much better of a job than his neighbors new Husqvarna does. If you do decide to buy a Horse for your lawn service my suggestion would be to buy one that is Hydrostatic drive. When I got my 1277 I wasn't sure about the Hydro but after mowing with it a few times I wouldn't trade it for anything. I've mowed once or twice with the wife's little Commando V8 (3 spd) and it was so much slower if you have anything to mow around or a bunch of corners to turn. Whatever decision you make good luck and keep us updated. Oh and

Sure, rub it in, I have one and you don`t...... Nice find. I didn`t know there was a difference. Thanks for sharing..

Exactly. The're not there to make your lawn look like a Better Homes and Gardens magazine cover, the're there to get it done and move on to the next job. That $85 mowing job would be $200 if you wanted it nice

My former powder coater used to stick a sturdy wire through the hole for the air valve. Always seemed to work on mine, and he usually got good coverage everywhere.

I'm not an expert, Dave...But I believe my guy "hung" the rims with wire around the inside where the tube and tire would be. He also mentioned that If he "charged" the piece correctly, the powder would pretty much go and cover anywhere. Don't know if this helps ..?

My Dad had his own Lawn Care business back in the 70's. He had 4 Wheel Horses...502, 702, 857, and a Raider 10 (1972). He did not just mow lawns though. He plowed and tilled gardens, dragged new yards, moved snow with a blade and a blower. He did quite well in the business, but that was the 70's. No problem getting parts, no zero turns, but there were not any places like Red Square and garden tractors did not show up at collector shows. There may actually be more support now then there was then. Don't forget about rolling yards also...easy money there.

I have a friend in Wisconsin who has a lawn service. He uses zero-turn for mowing, and has a WH for hauling, grading, etc. Says he will never go back to a tractor for mowing. Can get twice as much grass cut in the same time as using a tractor to mow.

Don't forget solder! Well, the old time autobody guys would refer to it as "lead", but solder is great for filling pits if whatever you are working on can stand the heat, and solder doesn't need much heat. Lots of folks think you have to braze or weld, and if strength is an issue then perhaps you must, but for rust pits or a no longer needed small holes most can be fixed very nicely with a little propane torch and solder! Larger holes will need a filler, maybe a washer or stamp-out to fill the hole and a little more skill, but most anybody can fill a pit with minimal soldering skills. And while it won't completely restore the strength it is a heck of a lot stronger then most (all?) other fillers that don't require heat. For those who haven't soldered, many fail because they try to solder rust or otherwise dirty metal. Clean metal, some flux and just enough heat will make solder flow like mercury and remind you of the Terminator II!

Just my . Has anyone thought of making a calendar that uses members and their horses to recreate the covers of old Wheel Horse sales brochures?

rj 58

From left to right: 1957 RJ35, 1956 RJ35, 1961 401 1957 RJ35

Put some drag slicks on and add a canopy over that sunken bucket seat and get ready to do a burn out with that custom top fuel dragster!!! And