Leaderboard

I like gauges too - so a couple of years back I replaced the voltmeter and added a tacho to my 316-8. It meant fabbing a new dash panel but I think it was well worth the effort. Some say you don't need a tacho but I find it useful and...... I like the look. Andy

Says it all.....

How about an 8 ball from an Apollo capsule for all the guys with hills. "We keep getting close to gimbal lock Jack! "

Here's my what's in my mirror last night (had to take it from outside the truck otherwise you wouldn't see it) Barn find c160 with ark 550 loader

This tractor was my first round hood that I purchased back in 2008 (maybe 2007) from VinsRJ. I restored it for my son and it was his first wheel horse he rode. At the time I knew that white was the correct color for the 58 wheels but liked the look of the red. Anyhow I finally decided to change the color to Antique White Rusto. Paint is drying now. I mounted a NOS set of diamond tread Bridgestones I recently picked up on a set of rims. Not sure if they are going on the RJ or if I am going to repaint the red rears and keep the original Silverton ags on it. Tomorrow I will mount them up and decide then.

I really like this one, lol

Well you could always go nuts with gauges like I did on my C165 during it's refresh. In addition to the ammeter, I custom made a dash panel out of diamond plate to house a tach, hour meter, and gas gauge. The lower portion has a digital voltmeter with a USB and cigarette lighter. If a K341 had full pressure lube, I would definitely be installing an oil pressure gauge!

20 minutes North of Grand Rapids. Seems like I always have"Government Jobs" coming in the Welding booth....lol I don't know.....as you can see from the picture, I'm not a very good welder.... That's TIG on an Aluminum mold for a engineering change.

Well I seen this the other day but figured it'd be gone before I had time to go get it... Well I decided to try tonight... Got home late but my try was successfull even if my kids had to sleep in the truck! Lol it has a sweet rear discharge deck on it and it badly needs a degrease and hand wash... Maybe wd40 bath also... But big problem is that something is broke in the engine... Won't have time til this weekend to get to it between work and my son having surgery Thursday... But I guess I will eventually see what the problem is...

With or without a wall involved? Sorry - had to ask...

How bout something from 40-50"s GM?.. chevy for instance:

An example of today's "Government Work"..... Weld a skag back on an out drive for a friend in the shop. He has to grind it down yet and repaint it.

Prolly some sweet go go boots too.

Hi to all! After a long time I remembered I published this post. I reread this old post and I have a few more photos to show you how the final restoration result:

Hello, I am TIGman or better known as Tom. I am a Welder/ Boring Mill operator in a Tool & Die shop. Welding now for 19 years. TIG, MIG, Arc, Oxy-Acet. and Laser Welding. Have been in Tool & Die since late 70's

I'm sure @mower intended to say he wants to buy his wife one!

So here are the pics: Asyou can see, is a little 'farm fresh'. I might a caught the bug a little. My wife compares this to her cloth diaper addiction. She is on forums and Facebook talking about diapers all the time. I've never joined a forum before, but this seems like a great community. And I love taking stuff apart to see how it works, so it's hard to beat a tractor like this. Stupid question: what, where, when, who, is this "big show"everyone is talking about? Is this a general tractor show, or a wheel horse only thing? Oh, and thanks '953 nut', I had found manuals on the Toro website, but not those. Those circuit diagrams will definitely come in handy. Thanks again for all the good info so far.

I think that this is really important both for the longevity of the show and for our safety. 2 years ago while videoing the parade, I exited John's beautiful 4 wheel wagon, and 10 seconds later it was hit by a dual rear wheel machine, thankfully I was already out because I don't think I could handle much more head trauma. with this year being customs, I hope that the macho display of power is kept to a reasonable and safe level.

I'm in Oklahoma and these little tractors can be hard to find around here too but hang in there they can be found if you look hard enough ...just be forewarned they don't like being lonely and have a tendency to multiply I got my first one and within a couple months two more had jumped on the trailer and followed me home. You are definitely in the right place for any questions you may have.

Picked up an old beat up plow blade frame last year for this "back burner" project but since there is no way I could finish the current project I was working on in time for the show, this one got moved up front. It will stay a rat since the frame was already cut hacked and welded in a few places. Plus there will be no time for paint which is not my thing anyway. Maybe some parts purchases at the show will change that because the original plan was to do it much nicer with a much larger engine. Anyway, this will be the custom I'm bringing to the big show this year. Still have quite a bit to do but here it is partially mocked up. The springer front end probably won't be operational because of time but the future plan is to have it working. Trying to fit as many original Wheel Horse parts that will work on it like the handle bars, plow springs, brake drum, hubs, ect and all the little brackets and bars.

By now I hope you know two things: 1. It's not a factory paint job, and 2. We have way too much time on our hands...

You'll need a cape, tights, and a magic lasso to operate that thing.

If Fred can do you can too He is driving the rj 1 made in 1 A.D

When I bought my GT-14 with a front end loader my wife was sure I had lost my mind, more money than I had paid for the previous six combined and 800+ miles away. Now that she can see how much fun I have with it she sort of understands. Besides, it cost way less than what we paid for a couple of her favorite sewing machines (each). Some times my wife accuses me of "coming up with make work jobs" just so I can use the loader; guess she knows me pretty well!

Ha yea!!! Now that I have one she needs one for me to ride around on.

Famous last words around here... till the wife finds out....

@19richie66 that gave me a good idea for a cool rat ! ( Wish I could still do this myself so just thinking out loud) . Build an smaller version of a Browning (Ma Deuce) .50cal machine gun for a new muffler , crosshairs for my hood ornament , an old Sun tach on the dash , raccoon tail hanging from my lift handle, AMERICAN FLAG sticking up from my hitch ,and since the mice chewed on my steering wheel, a perforated braided on steering wheel cover. Still wanting ideas for hood ornament.

A nice Budweiser tapper would look good next to Bud Man sticker

Now that's cool... Wait that's the hot faucet!

I would like a disc plow but I am not sure how to raise and lower it. I think I am going to buy a snow plow from him next weekend. I am going to ask if he has the linkage for raising and lowering implements in the rear. I have not had mine long and have been eyeballing a couple. I almost got one in Oklahoma the other weekend but it was a little too far for me to drive. I want another one for sure!!!

I got up early this morning before work and put the rear wheels on. I think I like it... (Sorry for the misdirected pics). Having issues using Iphone to take and save pics.

Great topic. I had that talk with my son about safe driving at the show. If anyone sees my boy driving his "hot rod" fast or goofing off with it, feel free to stop him and pull him off of it. Then have him come tell me what happened. The show is so big it is hard to keep an eye on him all the time. Good to have a few friends watching him as well

That's sound like the easiest way to fix my need for symmetry. I have to say however that a tach is impressive. That's very impressive. I used to build instrument panels for F4s when I served in the USAF. I still like gauges.

We are not your ordinary addicts we are just nuts about tractors that are over 50 years old and still going strong. Word of advise you just can not have just one. I joined in July 2015 with two that worked and one that needed a motor. I now have 4 running and the one still needs a motor. They are like rabbits they keep multiplying .

You are in the right spot - these guys know everything about but be forewarned - They are gonna want pics!!! Ask away - you will get answers! If you become a RedSquare supporter you can post unlimited pics and believe me, when you have questions you will get way more than your money's worth!!! I became a supporter right away and it has more than paid off... Directions below...

Will have both of these at the show for sale 401 and rj58 ( comes with mower deck and original front wheels ) $300 obo for the 401 and $500 obo for the rj 58 if interested just pm PRICE CHANGE

Welcome mower! I am just north of Dallas and horses are hard to find, but keep watching Craigs. I am driving to Missouri next week to pick up an RJ and a blade (for dirt, not snow) (We don't shovel heat!) I had an 89 I bought from a neighbor in 04. Until this year. The addiction caught me and now I have a 58, 66, 79, and 89. and still on the prowl (gotta fill in those gaps!). There is a guy south of Little Rock that has a treasure trove of any part you might want. I bought the 66 and a disc plow from him. Real nice guy! PM me and I will give you his info. He is on here, but not too often according to him.

I'm thinking wonder woman or captain america...

No problem at all Richie.

Use the feet god gave you and hope you don't need the soles yof your shoes anymore

You'll have more luck finding chicken titts than you will finding that lens...and chicken titts are even more rare than hens teeth, just to give you some perspective.

A plate bolted to the frame with a notch for the axel and spacers with bolts through the weight.

Good eye on that one achto.

Great score! Hope all goes well with the surgery

First off Second off forget about the finnish mower we'll work on that later.... let's get the tractor going 1st. More info is needed here assuming it's got a Onan P220? Not mincing any words if it was running crappie years ago and not at all now you got your work cutout for you. Motor is more than likely going to be completely gone thru and without knowing more you are looking at a labor of love more than anything. On your separate note This fantastic comunity exists because we LOVE these tractors because they just don't make them like this anymore. More to follow

I don't see $700+ in that tool. I works great but what a bone head. If he had used an impact socket instead of a chrome one the gun wouldn't have had to work as hard and the expensive tire tool wouldn't get beat up as quick.

Only 2 weeks from the long drive to the BIG SHOW and I am busy getting ready. Banners are printing and many other projects to finish in time to leave. The support members have set a new record. I have 55 requests for personalized banners for those attending. I few members who were planning to go have had issues come up that will prevent you from attending so when I get home I will contact you and arrange to send your banner to you. Very sorry that you will be unable to attend. For all those who are coming please do not forget to come by our booth as soon as possible we will be set up Thursday morning in the first barn. Hope someone brings a wide angle lens for the RS picture this year! See you all soon and have a safe trip. Terry Lola & Buddy

Hey Jesse, good to see you're back at the 518 issue. You are getting like me, everything takes two years anymore. Some random thoughts for you on the twenty minute run issue. I'm sure your head is swimming in all the help and opinions being offered on "what to replace next". You know from working with me before I do not suggest random replacement of parts on a "guess" and I treat other peoples' money as if it were my own. So, a few comments and then my suggestion for moving forward in the correct fashion on this fix. Harley Coil there are at least 3 different types of coils out on the market. For our purpose we will call them the 5 ohm coil, the 3 ohm coil and the 0.5 or "half ohm" coil. We can immediately take the "half-ohm" coil off the list of usable coils. These sub 1 ohm coils are STRICTLY for use in high energy electronically controlled automotive environments. Yes, the ignition module on the Onans are electronically controlled, but the ignition module in the Onan does not come close to the same level of design refinement seen in the automotive world. Measure the primary resistance of your Harley and Onan coils. They should be in the 3 to 5 ohm range. Stator / Regulator Do not pursue any further troubleshooting or parts replacement in the charging system. These parts only serve to keep the battery charged. A properly functioning battery should keep the 520 running for at least 1 hour even if the charge system were disconnected. I have read about your volt gauge reading being maxed out. Going forward, replacement of the voltmeter is a good idea. We need to keep an eye on the function of the regulator to assure the charge voltage doesn't skyrocket to over 16 volts. Excessive charge voltage not only will damage the battery, but can easily contribute to over stressing the ignition module. Higher voltage to the ignition module means more heat generated by the ignition module. And speaking oh heat ... Ignition Module Insulator Get one !! The last one I bought was less than $5. The addition of the insulator could very well resolve -or at least help - your problem. As a simple test, if you have access to hi temp gasket material sold at automotive stores, a homemade insulator one or two layers thick may give us some insight if heat is the root cause of your issue. Use the asbestos style compressed material for exhaust systems, not paper, rubber or Silicone. The gasket material must be rigid so it does not compress under tightening of the mounting bolts on the ignition module. 9 PIN Connector/ Jumper wires / Safety Switches. I never saw anyone mention to run a separate GROUND wire directly from the engine block back to the battery negative terminal. Bypassing the 12 volt pin in the connector by jumping the coil + to the battery + was mentioned several times but never the ground wire also located in the 9 pin connector. The ignition module needs both. Hopefully the block is grounded thru the negative battery cable, but you have to ask yourself why the Onan also has a ground wire thru the 9 pin also. Definitely worth a try. Any additional effort to bypass safety switches is just leading you in circles. The jumper from the battery to the ignition coil positive post eliminated all the wiring, ign switch. and safety switch concerns. Regulator black pigtail wire many engines that use this style of regulator mount the regulator into a plastic (un-grounded) engine shroud. The pigtail allows the metal regulator case to be grounded to the engine block by connecting this pigtail to a metal area of the engine block. It is not a bad idea to use this pigtail even on a metal shrouded engine. The ground to the regulator then does not depend on good contact between several metal shrouds to establish a good charging system ground to the regulator case. Trigger Ring Magnets Magnets tend not to lose and then regain their magnetism in 20 minutes. Think hard, when have your magnetized screwdrivers ever lost then regained their power. Weak or marginal magnets installed in black trigger rings during manufacturing - fine - that is believable. Losing and gaining magnetism - not sure anyone has seen that happen. My thoughts on how to proceed Place one jumper wire from the engine block to the battery NEGATIVE post. Grab your INCANDESCENT bulb test light. LED based testers will not work for this test. Start the tractor, run at idle. Connect the alligator clip of the test light to the POSITIVE - repeat POSITIVE battery terminal . Touch the test light to the coil NEGATIVE post and watch the lamp flash. The lamp will only flash ON briefly when the ignition coil grounds out the ignition coil. Run the engine throttle up and down and get very comfortable with the "look" of the flashing test light. This will set your visual baseline for a properly operating ignition module. While the engine is still running well, switch the alligator lead on the test light to the NEGATIVE battery lead. With the test lead wire going to the negative terminal, THE TEST LAMP WILL FLICKER OFF BRIEFLY on the ignition module grounding the coil. Choose which configuration you are more comfortable with. Hopefully you will be good with the testor wire lead connected to the POSITIVE battery lead, Some testers are quicker to respond than others due to various brands of bulbs used, so chose which method allows you to detect the flickering most clearing. Again, become very comfortable with the "look" of a properly running engine on the flickering tester. When the engine dies, hookup the tester to in the same configuration you feel most comfortable with and crank overt he engine while monitoring the coil negative post. Do not worry about the ignition coil POSITIVE terminal as any change in brightness there while cranking only shows how much your battery voltage is varying as the battery strains against the starter current - not a helpful observation. NO FLICKERING = bad ignition module FLICKERING just like when the engine was running OK = ignition module is still functioning. I would say I'm betting you will find the ignition module will be the cause of your issue., but let's check it out first and leave guessing for those with fatter wallets! I don't get much time anymore to do much online troubleshooting but I will stick with you on this one Jesse. BTW below is a slide showing the internal function of the ignition module. It is over simplified but shows the "guts" of the module are really nothing more than a magnetically controlled on and off switch that grounds the negative lead of the ignition coil. When one magnet in the trigger ring passes the nose of the module, the switch is turned on , whe the OPPOSITE pole magnet passes the nose, the internal switch is turned off and the coil fires a spark. Very simple - just like the mechanical points on the K series engines. Instead of a mechanical cam lobe, this circuit uses opposite polarity magnets to alternately turn on and then off a switch to power the ignition coil. For those of you playing at home and are more electronically inclined, the autopsy I performed years back on one of these modules reveled a Darlington pair BJT switch driver fed by a latched hall effect sensor mounted in the "nose" - about $2 worth of components just begging for someone to home-brew a replacement.

Thanks for the compliments guys! Since I don't have the talent to produce the beautiful stuff like you do Bob, I try to make up for that with creativity and resourcefulness.