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Hey guys. Finally got all of our horses together at Dad's Sunday. Took some pics. Need to decide which one to get Terry to put on my banner. Emory has looked at the banners he has done for you guys and said he wanted us in it, so I guess I know which one it will have to be.

Went to look at mid grader blade for my son, I picked up the blade and a couple of horses jumped on the trailer, had no choice but to bring them home. 314 with 502 hrs, no deck but runs good and came with a 3000 watt genarator already mounted 551 one owner with the trailer they bought new from a wheel horse dealer in NC, the only thing that I see that is not origanal is the fuel tank but the straps are still on.

Getting in a little Beech firewood. Not Wheelhorse related, now. But the Wheelhorse part will be when I hook the trailer to the Wheelhorse and haul the wood to the pile. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PggJSU4GSiI

Got my wiring done and fired her up on sunday, only ran for a minute. Will do the 1 hour run on Thursday, then change out the fluids. Building my own HL 5 head light bracket, will get it painted this week. Used my other 1045 for a fitment model. I think they look good.

So I had some time to kill on my break at work today and stumbled upon this on Craigslist. I immediately contacted the guy and set up a time after work to go get it. Good thing I did, when I got there he said he already had six people calling him wanting it and a guy that loves 5 minutes away offering more money than the listing price if he let him come get it. Luckily the guy had integrity and told him I had dibs on it. Overall it's in really good shape but the inside could use some new paint and some new tires wouldn't hurt. P.S. Sorry for the blurry pic somethings funky going on with my phone.

Terry This is a great idea. Thanks for all you and Lola do for the club and our hobby. See you at the show this year. Did you get the key ring and other item I sent? Dave

Thanks guys. I just wanted to share. Both of the suburbans are actually Emory's. My mom bought him the 60 and she and I went together to buy him the 61. He still can't quite reach the clutch, but he is learning a little at a time as I put it in first gear and walk along with him. Now that she has passed, they are a wonderful reminder for both Emory and I of her and the love she had for him. Like all grandparents, she was extremely proud of her grandson!

dells68 I think the one Emory and you is priceless. That is something he will never for get by passing this great hobby to him and his kids. All very nice to have. Enjoy.

Hey Terry and Mrs. Redo! Got my herd together Sunday. I wanted all of our horses together for our pic, but Emory had a different idea. He wanted both of us to be in the picture, so we're going to go with the picture below (thanks for your help and generosity)!

Just picked this up and have been working on cleaning it up.

I thought I would try to make a step by step teardown, measurement and rebuild of a k161 the way I do it. I see a lot of people wondering if they can do it,and I thought this might help. I do use the kohler manual as it does give step by step instructions also. The only "special" tools I use for teardown and measurement are a set of telescoping gages, a dial or digital caliper that reads to .001" (I prefer digital it takes out some guess work), a valve spring compressor and a harmonic balancer puller (for the flywheel) all four of these items I use can be bought online or from HF and are relatively cheap and can be used for other projects. Tools needed for assembly are a ring compressor, shim gages, a valve lapping tool with compound, and a torque wrench (none of these tools have to be top of the line, I use a $30 in/lb torque wrench for the connecting rod and a $50 ft/lb torque wrench for the head gasket bolts. ( the last two can usually be borrowed from a friend if you don't have them.

Hello All... haven't had much interest in this tractor as the trans is wrecked real bad... then by luck I find out I have a trans-axle that's been laying around. So what is this thing... I was thinking a 1057 but that only had a four speed and now I'm being lead to believe its a 1267.... which would be cool. Anybody know just by looking at pic? I put the pic in the trans-axle section too but don't think it will get the attention "over there" Thanks Tony

I tried my hand at painting, I'm using regal red. I haven't painted for a while and it shows, the few parts I painted didn't turn out all to well. I'm going to try again and will update then.

Thanks. I definitely learned some important lessons, and there are things I would do differently if I had to do it again. I also wish I had started earlier, so I could have spent more time, I definitely had to work fast to get it finished for spring, so it isn't the prettiest job, but as long as it works, I can overlook ugly. My wife overlooks ugly every day, so I guess I can too.

The best thing about what your doing for us here Terry is the calendar shots that are coming out of the wood work!!!

Don't give up on finding a 7 or 8 horse Kohler so quickly. Show and swap meet season is open now... make sure to visit all the spring swaps and tractor show/swap meets you can. There's almost always a few engines or something with an engine on it that you can find... keep your eyes open for old air compressors, generators, tillers and such... sometimes even beat up old golf carts. But don't overpay either just because it has a little old Kohler.... you may end up swapping some parts to get it to fit up right. But also if it's like you said and it's just going to be a parade tractor... a repower engine is a reasonably cheap alternative.

I had no idea there was such a following of Snowco trailers. My grandfather, Ed Elstun started out as an accountant at Snowco, and became the owner until he closed the doors sometime in the late '80's and sold off the product line. Farmers hadn't been buying things for a several years and the implement side of the business was dead weight and the "lets sue for anything" faze began...actually had to settle a lawsuit with someone who drilled into a power line with a snowco auger and got electrocuted. He unfortunately passed away this January. I don't think he knew there were any of his old trailers still out there, let alone sought after...probably wouldn't have tossed out all those old manuals lol! Would love to see any other pictures anyone has!

Yes it is...I belong to several Internet forums for a variety of different things and RedSquare is by far the most friendly and helpful out of them all...this is the only forum that I have paid the support fee on without blinking an eye and will do so again in another six months. Love the friendly people here and all the super helpful advice.

Trying to figure it out

So here is the Kohler k161 motor from my 702. I believe it to be the original motor but I have no idea if it isn't. Truth be told I have never been worried about spec numbers, they have never made a difference to me a kohler is a kohler and ill make it run. The motor when I got it was missing the air cleaner assembly and I could not get a full rotation out of the crankshaft . I thought there was a stuck intake valve and I think I was right because I poured a little kroil penetrating oil down the carburetor a few weeks ago and this morning I turned it a full revolution no problems.. The first thing I do is take a few pictures of the overall engine and especially trotted cable linkages, and locations of hole used for the govenor ( note the govenor arm uses the lowest hole and the carb uses the farthest out hole)

Hate the new non vented gas cans . You can fix almost any can with a EZ-pour kit . I've had six cans fixed and they work great . All you'll need is a 1/2" wood paddle drill bit fo the vent cap . Don't use a regular twist bit on plastic as it catches on twist and makes erregular hole . I found mine at TSC but you go to ezpourspout.com order direct or use the store locator . They also sell replacement parts . The high flow kit makes filling easy . I hope this will make some of your chores go faster .

Hello all, We are thinking about going to The Big Show this year, what are the dates this time? Is there any good hotels close by or do we have to get them far out of town? Any advice you can give us, we would appreciate it, thanks in advance! We were thinking about a 2 day event, Friday and Saturday. Hammerhead

Um , where's the pics of the grader blade . That my friend is a score .

Emory was the apple of Mom's eye. She worried so much that he wouldn't remember her. I heard him sitting outside my classroom door after school singing a song about Nana being in Heaven. He doesn't say much, but he sure does miss her. I'm glad he will always have the tractor as that close tie with my mom. She's been gone just over 6 months and we all still grieve daily! She will never be forgotten!

Man, you're on a roll lately...

Trying something a little different but familiar with the rear end.

Be sure it is sand-able, also it is best to stay with the same brand you will be using for top coat.

If Beech Log Rolling is added to the 2020 Summer Olympic Games you could be the team captain!

So much for "for better or for worse, in sickness and in health"..... Maybe he had "dragon's breath".

You are having way too much fun. Great video.

That is turning out awesome, nice job!

Yah I don't recall them coming out of South Bend with chrome lug nuts!!! Still gotta like how ahead of it's time it was (for a G.T.) in '66

It did great! Drained the old gas out first and it ran like a charm! Even did great going up and down the little hills I have.

Forgot to mention that I found a used hood from a 518 on CL 15 minutes from my house. It's the same with the exception of the louvers on the top. It only had a couple minor dents which came right out. Only $30 and it saved me hours repairing the banged up one.

Starting to look a little more like a tractor again...got the dash panel put on and bolted the hood back on...its been off and laying in the front seat of the 66 Ford ever since I got it...I was afraid these high Oklahoma winds would blow it away. Also dug around amongst the mouse turds in the toolbox and found the battery hold in strap so put that on as well. If I could find an engine for this thing then progress could really start moving along.

I guess it's not an exact restore depending on how picky you are. My Raiders 12 was exact...this one has different front wheels and the speedo under the dash to fill the hole that was there, but I kind liked the look of this girl just the way she was...beefy

Stopped by SteveBo's house with the tractor to compare it's wiring with his 1990 520-8 to see if anything was wrong. Low and behold besides the piece of power cord everything else was correct. Checked the coil and was getting no power to the + side. Added a jumper from the positive battery to the positive coil and she fired right and actually ran and drove fine. Now I have to check out all the safety switches and see if one is stuck or if the ignition switch is faulty. At least I know that it does run and drives!

Nice trailer Matt. SnowCo trailers are kind of hard to come by. Seems most people who have them nowadays are collectors who don't want to let them go. Definitely different duty grades of trailer too depending on whether it's a snowmobile trailer or a garden tractor trailer. This one lived here for several years. I never got around to restoring it and sold it to another collector back in 2014. Built by SnowCo, but badged as Wheel Horse. This is the two place Snowmobile trailer (Wheel Horse model 9-0511 and SnowCo model 863) To date this is still the only two place Wheel Horse snowmobile trailer that has been found that I know of, and I spent several years looking for it before dumb luck brought it my way. I used it for several years to haul a tractor or two to some local shows.

I just ordered the rebuild kit yesterday morning looks like I should have the parts early next week then off to the machine shop, hopefully will be reassembling in 2 weeks but in my spare time I will post a few little things I like to do in the meantime to be ready for assembly. Keep checking in

Now I remove the old piston rings, if they break no big deal you don't need them any way. I make six measurement to figure out cylinder taper and out of round. I write them on a sheet of paper which I will post t a pic of. I measure what I call the thrust measurement ( the thrust direction of the piston) and the pin measurement ( runs parallel to the piston pin when bolted to the crank) I use the piston as a support for the telescoping gage to help in the accuracy of the measurement this can take some time and patients to get the hang of, you can leave a single ring on the piston for tension to hold it in place while doing this. I measure top, middle and bottom of the bore on both the thrust and pin sides of the bore. Use the t-gage to measure the bore and the caliper to measure the t-gage. I take one measurement at a time and write it down the move to the next measurement, sheet then looks like this With it written down I can figure taper and out of round. There should be little to no wear on the pin side so count on those three numbers being the same or darn close. The thrust side is where the cylinder wear is. Taper just subtract the lowest thrust number from the highset thrust number and in my case it's .006" for out of round you take the greatest difference between thrust and pin but they must be from the same level measurements, i.e the top thrust and the top pin not the top thrust and the middle pin. My max taper is .006" and the out of round is .006" Now comparing my measurements to the kohler manual You can see that I exceed th max out of round by .003" which is where most people think they can re ring and hone and keep going... not a good idea, you would be putting a circle in an oval good luck trying to keep it from burning oil. If you are following the picture real close you will see my measurements are smaller than the standard bore for a k161 this is because I have a k161 with a small bore, the small bore k161 is no longer available and i will need to go to a standard 8 hp piston, being tue same as a large bore k161. But if I were building say a k181 with the numbers I have and the condition of the cylinder walls I could bore it out to .010" and not have any issues but I like to air on the side of caution and would go to a +.020" piston because at .010 I would have .004" to clean up the cylinder walls (any scratches I don't see right now) it would only remove. 002" from each side of the wall. I also measured the crankshaft with the caliper in 2 spots Nevermind the numbers the pics are just for show. My actual numbers showed a .001" out of round nothing I'm concerned with and the connecting rod showd no signs of wear or scoring so it looks like a standard 8hp piston and a standard connecting rod kit with valves needs to be ordered, will try to get ordered in the next week or two to complete this thread. I will be using an aftermarket stens/rotary kit from ebay, I have used many of these kits never had an issue with quality and most builds have been in workers. Don't forget to remove your other crankshaft bearing and seal still in the block a brass drift and a hammer will work don't want to send these to the machine shop.

Time to get at those internals so next remove the oil pan, hopefully you drained it before you started. This is where this little home made engine stand comes In handy, but you can roll the block over on the table. Remove the four bolts that hold on the bearing plate and remove the plate if you cannot rock it off by hand a gentle tap from a deadblow can help. This connecting rod has the bendable nut retainers use a cold chisel and a ball peen to tap them back slightly to get a socket on the rod nuts. I rotate the piston to the top (head end) of the block and unbolt the rod cap this way I can rotate the connecting rod 180° and tap it out of the block with a deadblow hammer. Set the crank aside on a safe place so it doesn't roll off a table onto the floor. Look for the camshaft pin on the pto side of the block. Use a long punch to hammer out toward the bearing plate side. When the camshaft come out there will be a small shim washer on the pto side of th cam that you need to hold onto. I like to use a little mechanics wire and wire the shim to the end it came from so I remember in a week or two when I reassemble that's where it goes. I then pull out the tapets, I mark them with a paint pen or sharpie because they have "mated" with each cam lobe. I usually put each valve with its keepers, tapped and springs in a bag marked intake or exh. Now the govenor gear needs to come out remove the brass govenor retaining nut found here Before removing take a picture or at least note the orientation of the throttle cable holder and clock potion of th round disc. Best to take a picture. O ce you have removes the brass nut you will find a screw head hidden behind the disc. Remove the screw it retains the govenor gear inside the block from falling off its shaft. Take out the govenor gear from the shaft ( you can see at the bottom of the block.) CAUTION there is another shim washer between the block and the govenor gear on this shaft don't lose it. Use mechanics wire to tie it to the gear until reassembly. Reach inside the block an take out the govenor shaft that stuck out of the brass nut, it will remove from the inside.

Use the harmonic balancer puller to remove the flywheel. Next we need to remove the valves, thake, off the breather cover (note the drain hole that goes to the bottom, if this is toward the top the breather will film up with oil and puke out the breather. I use a valve spring compressor and a magnet, these can be bought anywhere once again not very expensive. Once the keepers are removed, release the spring compressor pull the valve out the top and pry the spring out with a flat head screwdriver. The intake valve (bigger one) I thought had a chip out of it, you can see in the picture. I thought this was from the marks in the top of the piston, the chip was just carbon that broke off, I verified this by cleaning up the valve head on the wire wheel. The end of the valve seems a bit rough I might take a chance on them for cleanup but I will probably replace. Most valves are reusable, unless they are bent, burnt, or pitted. When you take the block to th machine shop take the valves with and have them and the seats reground, if you are spending th money on a rebuild do it right. Why spend money to have the cylinder bored and then just lap the valves to have compression loss. The machine shop i use charges around $10 a valve to regrind them, trust me it's worth it.

That's a good idea but do these look like outside dogs?

It's original. I'll find another picture..... Edit: clipped from 1988 brochure

My wife and I bought a house and a year ago this time. She's wanted a garden even since she was little and we finally had the space to put one in. I've been working on this project all summer and completely forgot all about the gardening section on this forum. We'll start last fall, with this photo: It's a panoramic and shows the area on the far right that will eventually turn into a garden. Since we moved in so late in the year, we weren't sure what would have sun. It turns out this space has a good 7-8 hours of sun a day in the summer. Clearing all the extra crap that the previous owners tossed over there. Had to bust out the old 8N that my dad and I rebuilt last summer. He uses that on his hobby farm. I did this in phases over the summer. I started with the fence. Fence was stained, chicken wire was installed and that's how it sat for quite a while. I was trying to do this on a budget since we didn't need it done right now. Turns out waiting was a good thing. Leveling things out to get them closer to where they needed to be. Found a you haul and you can have as much as you want for the rock that is around all of the beds and the perimeter of the garden fence. Did that in the July heat to the tune of 4 loads of rock... Garden beds taking shape: The beds are made from cedar boards. I added bracing so they wouldn't bow when filled with dirt. I ended up adding a board across the top to sit on when weeding/picking whatever is planted. I talked to the neighbor who installed the sprinkler system at this house and we added automatic watering to the garden beds. Each bed has eight 1/4in lines that can be ran whenever within each bed for the plants that are there. Now that the garden is ready for the spring planting season, my mom and a few others are asking for garden beds to built. It only took me all summer to get this garden built. So that was my summer garden building project. Now lets just hope it'll produce some goodies next summer

Added a trellis over the weekend for the peas to grow on. Potatoes and peas are all planted outside. Tomato, peppers, spinach, and lettuce were started in the house a few months ago. So far we haven't had to run the sprinkler system, but we did test it out for fun. Should work out great

Hello all. Nice little update for you here! Ok so i wanted to get my front axle put back on so this morning before school did some prep work on this and by the end of the day the paint was cured etc. Picture is first coat. Guess whats cleaning in here (hint its not the above) If you guessed, grease nipples, bolts and washers then you were correct. Back in and looking good. (i may get some new ones at some point) but they work well and look alright so there isn't a need i suppose. Meanwhile this is great!! All back in! looking superb! Another pic Thats all for today Thanks James

Big John Burrrrlllyyy might be packing 4 Wheel Drive,,,,,3 or 4 cyl of Diesel... But I will be bringing 2 1/2 untamed H.P. with a Kung Foo grip !!!!!!!and its full of Hi Test !!!!! llolloloolol

Squonk this is a good idea, I have found in the other engines I have built that it can be hard to pre-measure the new gaskets because you have to compress them to read the crankshaft endplay. Well noted though I will give it a shot with the old gaskets still laying around. Yes good point buckrancher I would prefer to use higher quality measuring tools, i work as a mechanic and understand the importance of quality and accuracy. I guess I'm trying to show that it can be done with cheaper tools, and you dont need to spend $100 + on a dial caliper and micrometers for a one time deal, which puts you in the game better than a hone and re ring which doesn't work. I have been using these tools to build all my kohlers and have built many kohler engines that are working great.

We had to do the same thing with our roses, voles would eat the roots off during the winter, come spring we had nothing but a dead stump,