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My brother David and I raided our neighbor to the north yesterday. We headed out at 6 am Northwest Indiana time (Chicago time ). 13 trip to Michigan yesterday to pick up a 1961 Wheel Horse 701 I bought from Denny Hodges (DHodges on Red Square) with a short frame snowplow, a second 48 inch later model Toro plow down the road ten miles from Denny's (just happended to see it on Craigslist) and a great visit with another Red Square member Jeff (ACman) in Stockbridge, Michigan ! We had a new front tire with a valve leak on the way up and had to change a tire in the Meier parking lot in Battle Creek. Denny has been downsizing some of his hear but he still has a Lexington, KY barn full! We really enjoyed talking and looking at his super neat and organized shop. His new Lincoln Welder was the newest piece of equipment and what a machine! It is a Lincoln Welder meets Smart Phone machine! We stayed an hour talking and trading " fish stories and a great -one of a kind -deer hunting story too" and then loaded up the 701 and took the snowplow off the frame to get it loaded too. Jeff had called and asked me to try and visit him on the way back to Indiana. It was an hour south and going same basic direction we were headed so I said yes and we arrived about 3:45 pm. David and I really enjoyed meeting with Jeff and his son Kyle. He has a very nice place and Chevy trucks galore (David was happy and even started telling Jeff and Kyle what Chevy 4x4 parts he had to trade which I did not even know he still had). We visited over an hour and then it was back to Indiana. Jeff has a very nice RJ he bought from another Red Square member and two RJ project tractors along with a 702 tractor he is redoing. He wants to make a Rat Rod out of one of the RJ's and rebuild the other. I told Jeff not to worry and told him he does need to come to Mentone, Indiana for the Swap Meet on April 30th in Mentone, Indiana. We were back to my parents house by 8 PM and sat down to a great dinner of meat and parsley potatoes!

Hello red square new member here, I would like to share my very first tractor with you all. A 1958 rj58 that I picked up the other day. This past Friday I left work a half hour early to make it to the bank to only travel 10 mins down the road from my job to purchase a rj. So I took it home and enjoyed my weekend staring at it! Can't play yet with it... Have some searching and work to do XD

Hood and gas tank came out pretty good. Front bearings ordered and should be in on Friday. Next week I should have a roller.

Picked up at suburban finally!! (350)found one nearby it's all taken apart cause the guy was going too restore but he decided to sell it instead. Says everything is there I was wondering if someone could help me find a parts diagram for it , even the tranny is all apart .cause he said it needed new seals.

It was a great day , I learned of Lane coming to Mi. When I talked to DHodge the night before . I left a pm for Lane and told him I'm not that far out off the way and if he wanted to stop I'd be here all day . It's cool to see people go out of there way just to talk and meet a fellow member . It was nice to talk horse face to face . Hope to see more of you guys in Mentone . Thanks again for the visit .

Got some ground ready the other day so my onions are in. To to help inspire me I had a look at some pictures from last year, happy growing everyone. Anyone else have pics to spur us on for the new season?

Yea I had a 1968 ford 120 garden tractor, I got that 857, runs great now with no smoke or noises, every gear works great and he put new battery in it for me. But I also picked up another toy too...

With the forcast of a cold noreaster this weekend I had committed to getting my new to me 312a parts machine.I was told that this machine would not roll without power so it needed to be winched onto the trailer.Mount the winch on the 16' Hudson equipment trailer(I know over kill but its all I got) and head out into the Sunday morning drizzle.On and off rain until we get to the owners place.We are in luck no rain.Meet the owner and get the tractor to the ramps.Hook up the winch and go to look at a parts deck he wants to get rid of.Check the deck and decide it's mine and we carry it to the truck.While doing this my wife of 37+yrs had winched the tractor into postion and had it cross chained.There was nothing for me to do but snap on the binders,say goodbye and pull out of the drive. Promised her lunch so we went to are favorite chain and the whole time we came and went through the parking lot no rain.Get in the truck and on and off rain during 100 mile final drive.I did not get wet all day until I got home.She needed her truck first thing in the morning so I unhooked in the rain.All in all a good day. I will get some pictures posted as soon as it stops raining.JAinVA

What a great day to meet new friends Lane. Thanks for the pictures and Thanks for sharing.

I found this old trailer for 100.00 and it needed a couple of tires (40.00) and I had a wiring kit, lights, and tongue jack, so before I put the lights and jack on, I thought I would paint it. Its a tilt dump trailer with a 3500 lb axle

Guys, I found this WH near my house and am interested in your opinion - how much is it worth and what type of market exists for the 60th Anniversary Classic GT? I grew up with a WH and would love to continue the tradition. This is a 2007 (checking on hours, if there's a meter). The gentleman selling it bought it new from the dealer and used it to mow grass and plow light snow. It comes with a 42" mower deck, WH wagon, WH plow blade, and chains. Thanks!

Well I got my beloved ford 120 sold and have been planning on using the money towards moving expenses (and maybe tinting the windows on my wheel horse hauler) but a really nice original 857 popped up for a decent price, it would look great next to my 856.. I want opinions on if I should buy it or not.. I would still have some dough left over so that's good. P.S I want it bad lol

Hi all, hopefully I'm OK here. My current tractor is a New Holland GT-22, which was actually built by Toro - it's the same as a 522xi, except for some minor sheet metal differences. Back when I was (somewhere around) 10, I helped my mom pick out a Toro 314-H for my dad, and since mowing was usually my chore, I ended up using it a lot. My dad's turned into quite the collector, and he's helped me keep a tractor in my garage when I needed one. I first picked up a GT-22 back in '07, when I moved onto a small farm. That burned up in a fire, and at that point I replaced it with a SCUT. I also found an old Electro 12 (I think) that I originally picked up for my dad, but decided to keep - it was better for fine mowing than the rear-PTO mower on the SCUT. Then back in '11 I moved onto a little city lot where even the Electro 12 was oversized. This spring my wife finally got tired of not having horses, so we moved back onto a few acres in July. I managed to find another GT-22, this one with the 2-stage snowblower, for a ridiculous price on Craigslist. The sheet metal was in poor cosmetic shape, but not actually rotting out. I have over 400' of driveway, so the blower was a must-have. I still have a compact tractor - this time an ancient Ford tractor - but right now all it does is moving hay bales. The GT-22 gets the majority of the work, so my wife was miffed when I tore down all the sheet metal to get it painted once it was clear the snow was mostly past.

Got out my small collection of Wheel Horses and got them cleaned up a little but then got them dirty again playing in the dirt. I added some new ones to the collection and sold one. The first one is a C-120 Auto that I picked up yesterday with a snow plow. The second is my first wheel horse ever a C-120 8-speed that I have way to much money in, but is is very reliable now. Third is a Raider 12 that I bought this winter, it had a 12 hp Tecumseh that burned oil like crazy and I had a Kohler 18hp laying around so I put that thing in there, its got more power then you would ever need, but with the snowblower on there works real good and I just bought the 1 bottom plow for the rear. Finally an RJ-58 that I restored last summer and is now in the process of a engine rebuild.

Mine tolerates Emory's and my interest in mechanical stuff. She grew up with a dad and brother who were always messing with mechanical stuff. Father in law once started a 6 cylinder flathead Chrystler in the basement. Said he ran it just long enough to smoke up the house

Sounds like you brought two keepers home today.

Hi there, I'm new to the forum. I come from a family of tractor enthusiasts, but I am currently just looking for a dependable mower. I know very little about wheel horses, other than I was impressed by one I used when I was a teenager. I am hoping to get advice about a 520h in my area. I checked it out tonight in the dark. It is very clean, and appears to have been maintained by a careful old man (RIP). The son in law started it after I struggled with the choke. It was chilly out, and I thought I heard a little tick in the onan 20hp. I took it for a short ride. Everything works. Hydro deck lift, pto, gauges, lights all seem good. The 48" deck sounded different than I expected, but keep in mind I haven't used a riding mower for years. After the ride I idled it down and she purred without the tick I heard upon starting. I did a final walk around and noticed a little grease shining from the left transaxle. Right side looked clean and dry. I don't have a trailer, so I left it there until Thursday. I am a little concerned about the engine tick, the left transaxle grease, and the general reliability of all this hydro. I am not shopping for a collection piece, so I would rather go simple if the hydraulics are prone to problems. We agreed on $1,000 final price. Am I worrying too much about the (very quiet) engine tick and the transaxle grease? Thank you

As promised, pictures of the new 312-A and my helper.

You have traveled down the slippery slope, when are you going to pick up the next one. Nice find

Thanks! definitely well put together webpage. Lol I think I have the itch, sold my go kart right after so I'll have the room for when a 401 or 551 comes along I've even got my old man into them, he wouldn't mind having one for himself now XD

Great thread here ladies and gentlemen. (Do we have any lady Wheel Horse owners on Red Square?) I'm beginning to discover what are rare, at least in my area. Let's keep in my mind that rare means hard to find, not always desirable and expensive.

Aldon, I am more interested in no rust.I just pulled the screen off my 301 and it is .050 . It came off easily as I replaced the iron phillips heads with stainless button head hex drive.I use these stainless screws to replace all the phillip head screws on all my WHs.I get them from different vendors on E-bay. At $6.50 for 25 of the 1/4" screws delivered it was a no brainer.These screws are great when used to hold the engine shrouds in place.No problem with aluminum corrosion and broken screws.Luck,JAinVA JimAnderson Goucester,Va

Outstanding Bob...one more step done to making these 3 piece transmissions virtually indestructible. Jim, the real issue here is to be able to use the axle gear from a 2 piece transmission in the #5003/5010 transmissions. The axles from a 3 piece transmission are really no problem, as they can be made on a lathe. It is the axle gears for the 3 piece transmissions that are becoming rare.

Thanks Jim. I was looking at the plethora of options they have, Any idea what guage the stock version is? I can probably guestimate the perforated hole diameter. I can definitely source a used one. I am hoping to get one in very good shape or make one new with fresh perforated material. all the older ones I see the mounting holes are wallowed out and the metal is in poorer condition. I may yet decide to go with recycle and sand blast and fresh paint. Just trying to see what my options are. There is definitely something wrong with me as I am fighting the urge to buy stainless and polish it...I know CRAZY. I am like a musk rat. Like shiney stuff.

like Bob said....if the tab is worn a drop of brazing rod or weld on it wil fix it.

There's a tab at the front of the belt guard. If it's like an 854 it's at the bottom. Make sure it's adjusted close enough to the belt. Just recently a friend with an 854 had the same problem. I looked at the tab and it was about 1/2" away. I simply pushed it up so there was just a fuzz of clearance and the issue was gone.

Thanks for sharing! Great day but, you have to trade in the pickup truck. You're definitely going to need an eight foot bed, crew cab if you're planning more trips!

You're in the right place, need partners in crime? All Horse hustlers in these forums. When do we mount up?

13 hours to, in and back from Michigan! Three Wheel Horse stops and two great visits with two great Red Square members! Denny ( DHodge) and Jeff (ACman)!

Yes it is! Thanks! If I have any questions about it I will be sure to come here

Well it's been fun building my rat rod. Didn't seem right at first to disassemble a whole tractor and not break out the sand blaster & spray gun. Was still a fun project though. . OK, so I did spray a little paint. I do like the look of white walls & red rims on rat rods though. Had to add some wheelie bars. I got a close up view of my gas cap after letting the clutch out one too many times. I'm still looking for the right item to hang on the front for weight. I like the idea of an aluminum tank like they used on gasser cars, just haven't found the right one yet. I don't think I will ever be completely done with this project. I'm always pondering different ideas, but for now it's pretty close to done.

Hic, hic, wha, what's that you say? Just enjoying my evening treat - wheel horse of course! Go buy you another round! Lots more fun without the after effects

Hello RedSquare, I found this wheel horse on Craigslist and would like to know if it is a good deal or not. The seller says it has not run in a few years but it looks great and comes with a snowblower and blade. It has an 8hp Kohler by the looks of it. Cant figure out how to post pictures but here is the link....

not sure it's worth a lot more now as an anniversary addition at this point in time. but there was only so many built, i forget the exact number built. I would like to add one to my stable someday and i have a buddy that bought one and only drove it around at shows so it looks like brand new with less then 20 hrs on it and it was signed by Cecile Pond. he had it for sale at shows asking about what he paid for it new and so far nobody has taken him up on it. with some luck it could be worth more in years to come if it is taken care of and not used and abused, but it is still a gamble. i say don't buy it for the value a lone but buy it and take care of it and it may just pay you back in the long run eric j

Is this what your hunting?

Here's one...

Our old Ravens aluminum trailer was ready to go yesterday to Michigan guys -it just wasn't that big a raid on Wheel Horse stock!

Welcome , I think if the Gt 22 is the same as a 522xi paint it red and put the correct decals on it.

Here is the 702 I have been working on this winter. I plan on using it for pulling a single bottom plow hence the duals in one side. It was covered in black paint, I managed to salvage most of the original paint. The hood was missing so I put on this one I bought at a swap meet last spring. Couldn't bring myself to clean off the algae/moss growing on it so I coated over it with linseed oil. This is a patina you cannot recreate and I thought I'd share it and see what you guys think.

Aldon, I would place an ad in the classifieds section, you'll probably get a response there.

Yup! I carry so much junk with me that I have a crew cab, camper top, and trailer

Aldon, McMaster Carr has perforated screen material.It is in the steel listing.They have a large selection of thicknesses and hole sizes.The smallest panel is 2'x2' and at something like $36.00.Thats kinda pricey but you may find something that suits your needs.Years ago I made a disc to rivet over the shroud opening.I punched a hole pattern in this disc.This worked to keep something from contacting the fins but I didn't realize the holes were too large(I wanted to ensure air flow). Grass clippings built up that I didn't see and thats how my C120 wound up in flames.Oh well lesson learned! Luck,JAinVA JimAnderson Gloucester,Va

Definitely true on both counts Jim. Here's another shot of the axles and you can see the wear on the original axle where it rides on the outer bushing. Simply a new bushing and it would be fine for a long time. I would still flip it just because but it wouldn't have to be done. Although I would think that roughness would wear the new bushing faster.

3-21-1980 President Carter calls for Olympic boycott President Jimmy Carter informs a group of U.S. athletes that, in response to the December 1979 Soviet incursion into Afghanistan, the United States will boycott the 1980 Olympics in Moscow. It marked the first and only time that the United States has boycotted the Olympics. After the Soviet Union intervened in Afghanistan in December 1979 to prop up an unstable pro-Soviet government, the United States reacted quickly and sharply. It suspended arms negotiations with the Soviets, condemned the Russian action in the United Nations, and threatened to boycott the Olympics to be held in Moscow in 1980. When the Soviets refused to withdraw their troops from Afghanistan, President Carter finalized his decision to boycott the games. On March 21, 1980, he met with approximately 150 U.S. athletes and coaches to explain his decision. He told the crowd, “I understand how you feel,” and recognized their intense disappointment. However, Carter defended his action, stating, “What we are doing is preserving the principles and the quality of the Olympics, not destroying it.” Many of the athletes were devastated by the news. As one stated, “As citizens, it is an easy decision to make—support the president. As athletes, it is a difficult decision.” Others declared that the president was politicizing the Olympics. Most of the athletes only reluctantly supported Carter’s decision. The U.S. decision to boycott the 1980 Olympic games had no impact on Soviet policy in Afghanistan (Russian troops did not withdraw until nearly a decade later), but it did tarnish the prestige of the games in Moscow.

Hi I am new to this site I also live in Berkshire UK and have a D-200 with cutting deck in my garage (I will get round to registering it and posting pics one day) I have owned it for about 20 years but I am thinking of selling it.soon I have managed to obtain spares, but not always easy My biggest challenge to date was sourcing parts for rebuilding the PTO clutch Pearsons Mailorder stock (and can obtain) Wheelhorse spares (watering.co.uk, email at anyname@watering.co.uk) they even have an online enquiry form for wheel horse parts https://www.watering.co.uk/services/toro-and-wheel-horse-spares-enquiry-form.html but you need to know the part numbers first. I find the following sites useful for identifying part numbers: https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro (where 01-20KS00 is the D-200) also http://torotractorspares.co.uk/part-lists/ Hope this helps

Had a good vist from lane ranger today . My son wanted to see what the 702 would look like with duals and the grader blade hooked up . Now if I could actually get him to get it running . Come to find out the two tires are Wheel Horse brand .

I know that the reason why the engines in all of the older tractors have no parts available is primarily because of emissions but my thought is how are the new ones better if they use as much or more fuel than the old ones over the years I haven't seen any great improvement with the ohv engine. Besides where are you going to find a new 8hp engine powered tractor that will match say a 308 or one of the older horses with 5 or 6 hp that could use ground engaging tools. Thats why we keep working on them.

Is this it? 150

Wow things have gotten busy here at home but I have managed to find some more time to finish writing this thread. Next install the rings on the piston starting with the wavy oil ring then the two thin oil rings one above and below the wavy ring. These rings are easier to put on the piston, you have to take your time and walk them into the groove. Once you have them installed offset the ring gaps of the oil rings. I place the wavy ring gap above the piston wrist pin hole, and one of the thin rings to the left and the other to the right about 1/2" from the wavy ring gap. It is hard to see in this picture but I will show it in a later picrure. Now walk on the 2nd ring and the top ring. Use the diagram that comes with your piston for directional install of the rings. Most all of the rings have some sort of notch in them like the one below. Place the connecting rod in a vise wrapped in a towel, mark the orientation of the rod and cap with a marker. After you have marked the cap remove it, and slide the wrist pin through the piston and the connecting rod and install the two clips that retain the wrist pin into the piston. I measure valve lash next, small block kohlers use solid tappets so the valve lash must be set by grinding off material from the valve stems. I first check to see what lash I do have and then take the valve to the grinding wheel. When I have the gap close to spec I hand sand them in my tile with 600 grit sand paper. Then re check your lash with the camshaft lobe on the base circle of the cam this means that the tappet is in its lowest position. For those who don't feel comfortable doing this you can pay the machine shop to set this lash for you (they do have better grinders). So here is a picture showing the orientation of the ring end gaps for reference the piston wrist pin holes are in the 12 and 6 o'clock potions in the picture. This spacing of the rings makes it that much harder for the oil to "blow by". Heavily coat the cylinder wall connecting rod and crankshaft journal with clean SAE 30 oil. I usually use my fingers to apply it, then pour clean oil on the piston and the rings apply some oil to your ring compressor and squeeze the rings down on your piston You need to have the compressor tight enough to get the rings into the cylinder but loose enough for it to slide out of the compressor into the bore. Once again this style works just fine I have built enough engines that I have invested in a nicer ring compressor set. Line up your piston in the bore, note the orientation of the mark you made with the rod and the cap this will need to line up in a little bit. The other crucial thing is the location of the hole in the rod cap. THE HOLE MUST FACE THE CAMSHAFT SIDE OF THE BLOCK! if you do not do this your rod will fail. This is because of the rotation of the crankshaft and oil lubricating the crank journal. I turn the crankshaft so the rod journal is at its lowest point so the connecting rod doesn't smack into it in the next step. Using the handle of a deadblow or a wooden handled hammer make one firm and swift downward tap to put the piston into the block. If you don't get it in the first time make sure everything is lubricated and in the right positionand try again. You want to get it in one tap otherwise you run the chance of breaking a ring. Note the hole in the rod cap and it's relationship to the camshaft side of the block. Tighten the rod cap down to the spec in the kohler manual. There are two specs stated for some of the rods the first is a cap style which I used and looks like regular bolts holding the cap on, the other is posi-locked studs which the connecting rod has two studs sticking out of it and you The internals are pretty much done at this point. Install the valves you need your springs, valve keepers and retainer rings. Feed the spring and retainer into the block spring first the push it up toward the valve guide and over the tappet. Slide your valve into the seat, and using your valve spring compressor, compress the valve spring and retainer together When you have enough room, place the keepers on the stem. TIP: a small telescoping magnet, patience and a little axle grease goes a long way. When you have both valves installed properly turn the crank over by hand, so each valve has opened once or twice, you now know that the engine turns, and if the keepers arent on all the way they usually have fallen off by now and you will know. Install one of your breather gaskets (I apply gasket sealant on these gaskets) and then the breather plate and reed. NOTE the oil drain back hole is at the bottom. Place the rubber spacer, then the other gasket and the final cover with the nut, snug it down if you over tighten the nut you will bend the outer breather cover and oil will seep out. Lube up the points rod and place it in the block hole. Add your points (most all kits come with new points) Set the gap at .20" when the points rod is in the block the farthest it will go in during a hand rotation of the crankshaft. Bolt on your points cover, don't forget your gasket, and grommet, this can wait till the engine is on the tractor and wired, but mine will sit in the shelf for a couple weeks. Put on your head gasket, and head, torque to spec using a torque wrench, and install your spark plug. I personally do not use the spark plug that comes with the kit, I throw it out and buy a quality Champion spark plug, in the case of a small block kohler a J8C. Bolt on your engine tins and your almost done I still need to clean and rebuild the carb, after I do this tomorrow I will attach the govenor arm and set the governor.