Leaderboard

finished my front end loader

With this project going so slow I usually search the title of this thread to bring it back up. The search hasn't worked well. I just discovered why. Look at the typo in the title. SuRburban Can one of the men in blue fix that? Anyways, here she is. Among many small changes from original is the kill button on the dash. It was the one on the motor when I got it. If you remember the PO spun the rod and installed a different crankshaft with a tapered shaft and welded a pulley on the taper. That had to go. He gave me the original crank so I had it turned .010 and reinstalled it with a new rod. The exhaust port wasn't tapped so I tapped it 1/2" NPT, ran a nipple in then a 1/2" to 3/4" street elbow. There's s few little things to do such as a fuel line, exhaust heat shield, a flanged bushing for the steering column a new starter rope handle and I'm sure I'll find other things. Next up, the 500 Special.

I thought you were a better welder than that!! Mike....

Hello All !! Here is a rant with a few pics explaining why POS junk riding lawn tractors are made and sold... because of people like this... So I have this parts tractor that has been laying in my bone yard for awhile.... I had to go out and get a few parts for a project I'm working on.... Picture one is of some idoits idea of a good way to repair a spun hub... Pic 2 is the absolute height of lazy... Okay--I'll give the guy credit for greasing the machine... but once again--ARE YOU KIDDING ME? There wasn't a rag available to wipe off the extra?? Pic 3 is what somebody considers proper maintenance in the "keep engine fins clean " department... Okay that's it... let the comments fly.... I'll admit it I love these little tractors maybe a little too much and seeing stuff like this gets me fired up. Tony

Saw these two little horses on a front porch this morning. No one home and no phone #. I just checked again and the Mrs. was home but she said he works second shift and she doesn't know anything about his tractors. I'll try again tomorrow. Sorry about the double post. When I first posted, I got " something went wrong, try again". So I posted again and now I have two pair of 8s.

Ok guys I just couldn't help myself. I freed up the stuck valve in the k91t and the seats looked good and the cylinder wall looked perfect! So I put it back together, changed the oil and added a bit of Lucas to it. It had good spark and I got all the out of the carburetor. I put the engine back on the tractor and put gas in the tank (after I cleaned it out) and believe it or not the tractor fired up on the second pull!! Smoked a little at first and then nothing! Ran it around for an hour or so until the spark plug that was in it fouled. Put a new one in and kept going! Next I need to fix the recoil but overall it worked great!

I took the herd out for some sun. It's such a nice day in York, PA.

so ive been in construction for more than 30 years,mostly a stone mason slash concrete installer,its hard work and long hours,the last employer I workrd for we averaged 70 hours a week,that includes the winter when you just cant work that many hours,it was a lot for someone my age,im not that old but I'm not a spring chicken either as I was born in the mid sixties,we had some time off this winter and a caretaker job pops up just around the corner from me,i talk to the wife and she agrees that its been just too much,cant even have a social life unalone hobbies or take care of my property,well I go for the job which is on a magnificent estate,200 acres,rivers,ponds,its an old mill as a matter of fact,it is right up my alley,taking care of pretty much the entire estate excluding gardening and housekeeping,neither of which I care to do anyway,got enough gardens at home,but they have every piece of equipment an estate would need,backhoe,which I have many years experience,woodshippers,stumpgrinders,etc,so today they call me and give me the job,yeha,but the only downfall is they have 3 johndeere tractors,2 garden and the zero turn is a big deere,well I guess I'm gonna half to get used to wrenching and riding a deere,but I get off every day at 4 and home by 4.10 so ill have lots of time to work on my horses,and the honey do list as well

Shhhhh... that was before I got "sub certified"

It's a "closed" crankcase ..... no vent to outside like on older motors. The hose directs fumes and vapors from the crankcase to the intake to be burned. Put the air filter back on and you won't see it.

Hi friends it has been a while since I have been around sorry about that. Last weekend I spent some time chasing down a lead on a new horse for the stable. Well I got it the tractor followed me home Sunday and I'm already loving it. The new machine is a 310-8 with a new battery it roared back to life and purrs like a kitten it has a 37 inch SD deck witch I'm very excited to try out never owned on before take a look at it tell me what you think I paid 300$ just the way it sits Sorry only one pic here's another

3-8-1950 VW bus, icon of counterculture movement, goes into production Volkswagen, maker of the Beetle automobile, expands its product offerings to include a microbus, which goes into production on this day in 1950. Known officially as the Volkswagen Type 2 (the Beetle was the Type 1) or the Transporter, the bus was a favorite mode of transportation for hippies in the U.S. during the 1960s and became an icon of the American counterculture movement. The VW bus was reportedly the brainchild of Dutch businessman Ben Pon, an importer of Beetles to the Netherlands, who saw a market for a small bus and in 1947 sketched out his concept. Volkswagen engineers further developed the idea and in March 1950, the vehicle, with its boxy, utilitarian shape and rear engine, went into production. The bus eventually collected a number of nicknames, including the “Combi” (for combined-use vehicle) and the “Splittie” (for its split windshield); in Germany it was known as the “Bulli.” In the U.S., it was referred to by some as a hippie van or bus because it was used to transport groups of young people and their camping gear and other supplies to concerts and anti-war rallies. Some owners painted colorful murals on their buses and replaced the VW logo on the front with a peace symbol. According to “Bug” by Phil Patton, when Grateful Dead musician Jerry Garcia died in 1995, Volkswagen ran an ad featuring a drawing of the front of a bus with a tear streaming down it. The bus was only the second product offering for Volkswagen, a company whose history dates back to the 1930s Germany. In 1933, Adolf Hitler became chancellor of Germany and announced he wanted to build new roads and affordable cars for the German people. At that time, Austrian-born engineer Ferdinand Porsche (1875-1951) was already working on creating a small car for the masses. Hitler and Porsche later met and the engineer was charged with designing the inexpensive, mass-produced Volkswagen, or “people’s car.” In 1938, work began on the Volkswagen factory, located in present-day Wolfsburg, Germany; however, full-scale vehicle production didn’t begin until after World War II. In the 1950s, the Volkswagen arrived in the U.S., where the initial reception was tepid, due in part to the car’s historic Nazi connection as well as its small size and unusual rounded shape (which later led to it being dubbed the “Beetle”). In 1959, the advertising agency Doyle Dane Bernbach launched a groundbreaking campaign that promoted the car’s diminutive size as a distinct advantage to consumers, and over the next several years VW became the top-selling auto import in the U.S. In 1972, the VW Beetle passed the iconic Ford Model T as the world’s best-selling car, with over 15 million vehicles produced.

If I am thinking right...that is a pollution control valve Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV). Those were on cars from back in the 60's & 70's. If I'm right, you should just need to replace the valve. The head gasket is OK................IF I am right. Should be able to pick one up at any small engine repair shop...maybe even AutoZone. If I am right...it is the 3rd time this year.

I keep staring at the hub, axle and 5 pounds of used welding rod. I'll think of something clever to say, soon, sometime, maybe,,,

Had a neighbor come over last spring and ask me if I wanted there old lawn tractor (TSC Brand) she said it leaked oil and gas I knew it was only about 10 years old used only to mow about every other week so I said sure why not at the least I can get a few parts off of it. Well I pressure washed it off and got it into my shop the fuel line was extremely rotted (AKA fuel leak) then I let it run a while to find the oil leak she had put to much oil in it and it was coming out the over flow spout on the engine fixed a few things and sold it for $250.00 she spent $1,500 on a new one a little routine maintenance would have saved her $1,475

This is a throw away generation. Hove you noticed how many people who have tractors have no basic tools/??

that some great advice I will.do that mate I build the loaders and sell them.im.fitting them to Bolens I have full.plans including part procurement and also for the rear hoe however this loader is my own design 60x40x5 for box for arms 80x80x5 for mounts and tanks and subframe 100x5 plates for joins ect cylinders are 60x50x30x500 stroke on arms cylinders are 60x50x30x150 for bucket pump is full hydo 20lpm 3000psi through my pto using 3/8 hoses and twin bank valve block im.building four for wheelhorses and one for a bolens i sell the loaders. On ebay i also make wheel weights for info on loaders , rear hoes and wheelweights myemail.is adrianrycroft@gmail.com.i can provide loader complete or as a kit to build yourself can provide at anystage of build

The white foam substance is condinsation,,, in the winter month almost all air cooled engines suffer from this,,,it is caused from the meatal engine changing temperatures so much faster than the air around them,, it is a natural phenomenom,, that unfortunatly we cant do anything about,, this is why it is so important to chamge your oil at the end of every season , winter to summer and vice versa, regardless of how many hours the oil has on it,, in example the cast iron block in a shed or small garage gets cold over night ,, then the sun comes up in the morning and because of the green house effect the air in the garage changes temperature rapidly while you engine block does not ,, hence causing condensation,,,hope this helps

Its been in the 60's past 2 days ground is real soft,, great for what im doing the dozer blade pushes the dirt right up,,, lots more to do yet,, and im enjoying every minute ,, as long as i can push something lol snow dirt it dont matter lol

That looks great!

Couldn't believe my eyes!!! Don't bother the gentleman he still has the Deere but the goodies are gone!!!!

In case anyone is interested

I think if it was a head gasket one would see it blowing residue out between block and head. This almost seems like maybe oil is maybe contaminated with gas. Hard to see on the dipstick, I have dealt with issues like this multiple times when a carb leaks and a portion will end up in the crankcase overfilling it. Get blown out the crankcase vent which in this case is the hose to air filter. I think I would drain the crankcase just to prove to myself whether or no to much liquid in there. I have gotten three quarts out of a crankcase that is to have one and half quarts. That thing will smoke for fifteen minutes until exhaust has the residue burnt out of it.

ztnoo, If you can't find the key you need get the 1/2" keys from McMaster Carr and send me one.In ten minutes I can make it 1/4" and it will only cost you shipping.I don't make this offer lightly.I have gained much more from this site than anyone can imagine.Give it a thought.Luck,JAinVA

They may have been "on" a but they sure don't look like any type of mounting I have ever seen. Looks like a bit of back yard fabrication took place.

You know, if you want to really brainstorm...maybe a few pictures of what we are looking at...maybe a video of it running. It is going to be really hard for anyone to guess what you have going on by the 3 sentences you posted at the start of this thread. Maybe you did not mean anything by it, but I feel a little put off by your response when I was just trying to help with what little information was given.

Thanks guys. Yes Richie, I'm proud of it. It's not to the level of what many of the guys do here but I did my best and I'm happy. Thanks to your great welding the hood came out better than I ever thought it would. Aldon, I'm looking forward to meeting you at the big show with your K341 in my truck.

Yes I did just change the oil. It was right on the money before I changed it, so it wasn't using oil and the same afterwards. I checked it for two days before I ran it. That's what's so strange. It's just my luck, I could fall in a bucket breasts and come up sucking my thumb. I'll get it fixed and everything will be fine. If you missed an earlier post it was smoking like I was using 2 cycle gas this morning. Brought it home and sat it in the garage doorway and started looking thing over. Took the filter off and saw a fair emount of white oily film on the inside of the filter gasket. Started it up and saw a lot of vapor coming out the tube coming from the valve cover.

I think he meant 80mm x 80mm x 5mm wall

So, just maybe...I might be on to something...even without the PCV. The hose going into the valve cover says it all...that is what it does. I don't play the lotto either...and I am your age. You can keep what you would give to contestants...I'm done playing. BTW...if you have somebody you trust, why post your question here?? No harm, no foul.

Great build ! looks like factory.

Dang Bob, that is beautiful! It turned out really good. You should be very proud of that one!

I had checked the throttle shaft for play when I had the carb off.It had little to no play.When I put the carb back on.I used a new mounting gasket.A bought one.Not a homemade one.Today I had it running and sprayed carb cleaner around the intake manifold gaskets.No increase in speed indicating no leaks there.Still shrugging my shoulders.

Great job! Nice and beefy too! I hope mine turns out as well as yours. What thickness steel did you use for the bucket?

Good looking too.

Thank you for all the great replies and advice. Tankman I will tell you the story on this one. It started last summer when the wife decided she would like to help me mowing the lawn and get some sun and I was excited thinking watch the wife mow in a bikini and get a wheel horse for her to use. That is when she told me she wounldnt use a wheel horse so we ended up with a MTD junk special. Well after one summer ofLove that mtd she decided she wanted a horse. That is how i got the 310

just finished building my loader

Sucking air... check around throttle shaft and carb gasket.

I had the same problem with my C125. Turned out the point had opened two wide. Reset the point to .16 and that took care of the problem. The book said set at .20 but that was two wide. I even put on a new carb before checking the points. I did not need the new carb but left in on there anyway. My engine is a K301 12hp.

Have the voltage regulator mounted on the tractor as the body of it needs to be grounded. Turn the key to the RUN position with the engine NOT running. Check the voltage across the battery terminals. Now move the red test lead to the DC+ terminal on the regulator. You should have the same battery voltage reading. If not fix that. Now move the black lead to the body of the regulator. You should have the same battery voltage reading. If not fix the regulator ground to the battery. Don't go away and leave the key ON. Garry

Send John a black one and you guys can go as twins!

I didn`t see them either and I just got new glasses...

You can see my 310-8 in my avatar and if ya wanna see what they can do , look at the post i just put up today called " Got to play in the dirt today" ,,, cleared all that land with nothing more than a chainsaw and a rope and my trusty 310-8 ,,, and when my wife and i built this house,, 18 years ago , i cleared all my land and back filled my foundation and landscaped it all with that awesome machine !!! They can do anything you ask them to do !! Great buy !! Dont habe the chains on ot anymore i have AG tires front and back no need for chains,,

Its a tie for me...... Hobart 175 mig welder and Miller 375 X-treme plasma cutter. I love cutting things and welding them back together.

Hopefully this will save some wear & tear on my body! Need to make it a little wider for the tractors, but that is do-able.

Woodruff key update: I took daveoman1966's advice and fully supported the axle I was to work on, the right side axle. Since I had absolutely no luck moving the key after days of mapp gas torch heat cycles, liberal applications of Kroil, a variety of different punches, several hammers, I finally threw in the towel and decided my only hope of getting the woodruff key off the axle was to try center cutting the key lengthwise and attempt to collapse the sides until the key came out. I actually started the cutting yesterday afternoon and was very cautious and deliberate in my cutting, trying to avoid damaging the key slot and the area of the axle surrounding the slot. It is tedious work and I tired of it late in the afternoon and started back up this morning. On occasion, several times as I deepened the cut, I would stop and attempt to punch the sides of the key toward the center of the cut, gradually opening up on both sides. I repeated heat and Kroil cycles a few more times and each time cutting a little deeper and continually making depth calculations using the good left axle woodruff key as a gauge compared with the depth on the cutting disc. Finally after cutting a little more and flat punching both sides of the key, the key began to rotate upward in the slot on the side closest to the axle housing. I was then able to actually wiggle it with my fingers and it came out! Eureka! Time for a celebratory Bacardi! I have somewhere between 4-5 hours from start to success removal in the cutting and punching operation. Interestingly enough, all my heat/Kroil cycles reveal NO PENETRATING effect in the lower half and bottom of the woodruff key. Dry as a bone. This sucker was definitely "rust welded" to the axle. I then started the tractor and put the tranny in forward to spin the axles. I dressed them with #220 wet paper with WD40, the progressed to #320 wet paper with WD40 applied to remove traces of corrosion discoloration and lightly dress the axle, not unlike what you would do on a lathe. Granted the axle doesn't turn particularly quickly, but the fact they rotated allow me to evenly dress each one. I also ran a second flapper disc I had of the same type I had used earlier to hone the hubs lightly, once again. Remarkably, both hubs now slide easily onto each respective axle. Looks like progress to me. It's about friggin' time! The right axle key slot near the top of of the slot needed some very light filing to dress the edge which had been dented slightly inward. I filed until the good woodruff key would slide about half way into the slot. I decided to stop that procedure until I actually located and have in my possession the appropriate, new woodruff keys for installation, and alter the slot as need to fit easily. So, it's time to clean things up a bit. Then drain the tranny and remove and replace the axle seals. I'm hoping that goes smoothly because I believe I've had more than my fair share of problems between removing the hubs and dealing with the obstinate woodruff key. The workplace: The cutting tools: Comparative examples: Good used woodruff key vs. shot split key There has to be a supplier or two or three that has these large woodruff keys out there in the world of industrial suppliers. These keys weren't made special for Wheel Horse. They had to have been picked from regular industrial stock and inventory. What reinforces that theory in my mind is the woodruff keys aren't shown at all in the parts illustrations and parts listings..........probably because they aren't/weren't proprietary parts.......they're a generic part that was/is available. Maybe not at the local hardware store, but still accessible and available in general terms. Aldon theorizes, and I think reasonably so, that it's highly like any Wheel Horse tractor with 1 1/8" axles likely had the same size woodruff keys to secure the hubs. How about you D Series owners out there??? What do your woodruff axle keys look like??? If I can just bump into the right supplier(s) who will sell in modest quantities......I don't need lots of 25 or 50. I might go for 10, if necessary. The jargon used with the key sizing left me scratching my head a bit. Finally I figured out the 2 3/4" spec referred to the diameter from which the key is machined. Depending on the supplier, they may describe the key by the diameter from which it is cut, or another supplier may describe it by the key's actual length. On the surface you would assume they are two different keys when in fact it can be the same key......it isn't just readily apparent. Who among us deals with woodruff keys and their sizing on a daily basis. Almost NO ONE. I got out my dad's old drafting tools and swung a 1 3/8" radius to draw a complete circle of 2 3/4". My good key fits perfectly to that drawn radius. 1/4" (W) x .58" (H) x 2" (L) on a 2 3/4" diameter, full radius This is like a Star Trek voyage with Captain Kirk and Dr. Spock........into the unknown world of woodruff keys.......... C'est la vie, Steve

thankyou elcamo I cant take all the credit asi have a full time welder and tank tester and a full Time engineer operating the drills and saws as well as making me all my new hydraulic hoses. I put them together and fit them to the tractors or pallet them and ship them however quality control and sales are on my toes as well as my sales rep Steve again his number can be found on my website keep your eyes on this page for my 4 wheel tipper trailer

Looks good, do yourself a favor and get a cutting edge on that bucket. You have done such a nice job I would hate to see you mess it up.

So, it looks like it's probably a component issue then? Where should I look? Like I said when I tried the spare rectifier both wires from the stator got hot pretty quickly so I'm thinking the stator is working fine. I'm assuming the spare rectifier is probably bad judging by the heat issue and it still didn't charge. How would I check the rectifier and could it be a switch issue? Thanks for the help - like I said, I'm electrically challenged but I'm learning from you guys!

Once i get my brinly plow from elcamino on april the 8th im gonna cultivate it all then run the tiller and plant some grass back there ,, and who knows maybe some corn for the hell of it across the back for the deer that sleep in the woods behind my house lol,,,