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you just gotta...take a chance. Recent C/L offering...C-160 sitting outside, unused for the past year, flat front tires, dead battery, no spark, below freezing, so the trans was locked up. Seller helped me push it up the ramps, and into the truck...once back home...was running, driving, and mowing within the hour after unloading.

Now Bendy has a working rear hitch, I thought it's time I tested it with a plough. Yup, that works.... So does that here is the video

Hi folks. Formerly a John Deere owner, I recently purchased a 1976 C120 Wheel Horse tractor. I was looking for something more heavy duty. The JD was basically a lawn tractor. I tried plowing and snow blowing with it, but it just couldn't handle it. So I found someone with an older Wheel Horse. I went to see it and it was in really good shape for a 40 year old tractor. The best thing was that it came with a snow blower that looks like it was hardly used. It was like 5 degrees out when I went to look at it and the engine was stone cold. Choked it, turned the key and she fired right up. Sold ! I brought it home and checked it all out. it was all there and working great. So I decided to tear it down and restore it before I start using it for the season. It did not come with a mower deck but i was able to find one 2 hours away. I will be restoring that next. So it already had a new battery,fresh oil and new spark plug and wire. I stripped it down and cleaned, prepped and painted everything. I used Krylon Super Maxx Gloss Banner Red. Really good match. I also used gloss white for the rims and gloss black for a few things. I used Rustoleum high heat black on the head and exhaust. 4 new tires were installed. Hi Run WD1043 16x6.5-8 on the front and Carlisle Tru Power 23x8.5-12 on the rear. I found a new seat from Northern Tool which fit perfectly. It is a high back Kubota tractor seat model 53,000bk. $99.00. I mounted a winch that I bought at Harbor freight under the rear seat pan.There was a dummy plug in the dash already so install was easy.I made 2 diamond plate foot pieces. The aluminum rods were removed and polished also. I think it came out really good and now I have a great old tractor to snow blow in the winter and take care of my yard in the summer. Just thought I would share with all you Wheel Horse lovers. D

I had a therapy session this morning. I took some 0000 steel wool and WD-40 to the Lawn Ranger. Its like shinning your boondockers was in boot camp. No deep thinking, no mesmerizing the General Orders, just polish on / polish off / repeat. While working I realized that I'm not in any hurry to paint it, (except to stop rust) because I'm just like my tractor! After the barn makeup was removed it kinda looks as I do. I'm not shiny any more, I make funny noises on start up and shake a little at idle, and I've had parts replaced. I've always known I have an old soul, new things don't spark me like old things do and the more original the better. When I watch a hit-miss engine running or wander around antique farm equipment or putter with my two WH lawn tractors, its knowing that at the time they were built it was top of the line engineering and design with a sharp pencil and a slide rule, Men at lathes and mills, not CAD-CAM with CnC lathes and mills where one guy operates five machines. I know that's the world today, but to think of how some of our greatest accomplishments were done in the past before the computer still amazes me......

Hate the new non vented gas cans . You can fix almost any can with a EZ-pour kit . I've had six cans fixed and they work great . All you'll need is a 1/2" wood paddle drill bit fo the vent cap . Don't use a regular twist bit on plastic as it catches on twist and makes erregular hole . I found mine at TSC but you go to ezpourspout.com order direct or use the store locator . They also sell replacement parts . The high flow kit makes filling easy . I hope this will make some of your chores go faster .

Due to the condition of my 854 I have had to replace or repair almost every part literally. Some I have had to make and some were purchased. I have done all the work myself with the exception of the motor. My son helped me tear it down and prep it for a rebuild kit. It will by no means be what I would call a restore but it is a total rebuild. The important thing is I have saved a from the scrap yard and I have had a lot of fun doing it. Have fun and do what you want.

Things are going slow, I spend more time at the Veterans Hospital than I do at at home and they don't know a crescent wrench from a spatula. I ordered cast iron Dexter Hubs for a small trailer to replace the stock wheel bearing, 30.00 each delivered, and they allow as short as a 4-1/8" spindle. I went with the 12 inch rims as I am going with the 30x10-12's (another story) and installed the tires measure 21 inches tall which is about three inches taller than the 18x8.50-8 turf tire that was on there. Using the cast iron hubs with timken tapered bearings and taller tires will not only give me easier steering, but greater ground clearance for the garden work. I am keeping the lower part of the Onan powered D-160 dash as it has an electric clutch switch in it which I will use when I take off the manual clutch from this D-160 and install my electric clutch I have sitting on the shelf. BTW, ONLY the Onan powered D-160 had an electric clutch, all other D series, single and twin cylinders, were manual clutches. Bad news on the 30x10-12 tires, I received one, but not two tires, the unnamed company (CHAPA$%AL MOTOR SPORTS) refused to communicate with eBay about sending the second tire so eBay told me to send it back with a prepaid label they supplied and they would refund the entire amount this Monday or Tuesday. My communication with the hemp heads at the unnamed company ( CHAPA%$AL MOTOR SPORTS) was fruitless. Although they admitted that UPS had not picked up the other tire, they were supposed to pick it up, so I would have to wait until they settled the dispute with UPS, (who never had the second tire), before they would send me another. When I called the young man at the unnamed company (CHAPA%$AL MOTOR SPORTS) "doode" he hung up on me, I am going to send him a hurt feeling report so he can fill it out and make a complaint.

After going back and forth between searching for a front end loader and building my own, I've decided to give building my own a shot. If it goes badly, I may decide to buy one, LOL. But I think if I don't at least attempt to build mine, I will always wonder if I can. Since I love building things, I'm going to at least attempt it. Credit goes to those who went before me, and those who provided help to me and others in their build, I have learned a lot watching those projects. First was this topic: Then Andy built a mount for a Kwik-Way for his 522xi in this thread: There were other topics, but these are the two that stick in my mind Andy, and those who helped him have by extension, been an immense help to me. Without his excellent thread and those who helped him with measurements, etc., I probably would not have attempted this. Andy's dimensioned subframe drawing has been a huge help already. So, rather than hijack his topic, I will start my own here. To catch up on what I have done so far, mostly planning and questions, see the Picked up a Kwik-Way Loader for my 522xi topic above. Yesterday and today were the first real building activity. I cut and drilled the brackets to make the mid frame attachment to the tractor. These will be welded to the two 2"x2"x1/4" frame members that attach to the rear axle.

I purchased a very nice machine from SteveBo as my equipment needs are changing and so is my stable. I picked up a clean RJ58 and had to make it my own. I changed the Cliton engine base gasket, axle seals, found another set of rear wheels, got some tires and fabricated dual wheel adapters. I also fabricated a slot hitch adapter for towing misc and here's where I'm at...

3-6-1899 Bayer patents aspirin On this day in 1899, the Imperial Patent Office in Berlin registers Aspirin, the brand name for acetylsalicylic acid, on behalf of the German pharmaceutical company Friedrich Bayer & Co. Now the most common drug in household medicine cabinets, acetylsalicylic acid was originally made from a chemical found in the bark of willow trees. In its primitive form, the active ingredient, salicin, was used for centuries in folk medicine, beginning in ancient Greece when Hippocrates used it to relieve pain and fever. Known to doctors since the mid-19thcentury, it was used sparingly due to its unpleasant taste and tendency to damage the stomach. In 1897, Bayer employee Felix Hoffman found a way to create a stable form of the drug that was easier and more pleasant to take. (Some evidence shows that Hoffman’s work was really done by a Jewish chemist, Arthur Eichengrun, whose contributions were covered up during the Nazi era.) After obtaining the patent rights, Bayer began distributing aspirin in powder form to physicians to give to their patients one gram at a time. The brand name came from “a” for acetyl, “spir” from the spirea plant (a source of salicin) and the suffix “in,” commonly used for medications. It quickly became the number-one drug worldwide. Aspirin was made available in tablet form and without a prescription in 1915. Two years later, when Bayer’s patent expired during the First World War, the company lost the trademark rights to aspirin in various countries. After the United States entered the war against Germany in April 1917, the Alien Property Custodian, a government agency that administers foreign property, seized Bayer’s U.S. assets. Two years later, the Bayer company name and trademarks for the United States and Canada were auctioned off and purchased by Sterling Products Company, later Sterling Winthrop, for $5.3 million.

@nylyon-(Admin) This should work! A pygmy goat on a stump.

You got me thinking about all the cans I have missing the yellow plugs: Search eBay for " Gas Can Jug Vent Cap Blitz Wedco " I found: 10 Yellow Fuel Gas Can Jug Vent Caps Shipped for $7. Just the vent cap assemblies: This listing is for TEN Gas Can Vents. It will fit Plastic and Metal Fuel Jugs such as Blitz, Wedco, Scepter, Essence, Midwest, Eagle, Chilton, Briggs & Stratton, Rotopax, Gott, Rubbermaid, Sears Craftsman, Anchor and Koplin. You will have to drill a 31/64" hole into the can, then push the vent into the hole. These caps can be installed on any fuel can in order to provide a vent and allow faster flowing fuel.

The battle of the steering wheel is over. A little drilling, soaking, and about three pumps after contact with my homemade steering wheel press.

Think I may bring the fast tractor I bought from John while back to the show . Getting it back to whole again belts etc .

Photos are limited. Ability to to upload photos is a significant perk granted Supporters. And thanks for helping out others!

Hopefully, just initially. Can't wait to see a coupon for that in Harbor Freight.

The vise is called a Wilton I think, I rescued it from the salvage, I was dumping a load of junk metal when I saw it on the pile, boy did they look at me funny going out only 5 pounds lighter than I came in and this vise out of sight. Its old, but I think it works pretty good, my last vise broke in half when I was trying to bend some 1/8 inch flat stock, a big chunk of the vise hit me in the chest and stuck between two ribs. I got the super glue out and ready before I yanked it out.. The pipe its mounted on goes into a 8 inch I beam in the ceiling and about 4 foot below the floor

Your answer is in the title of this thread.

Sure beats the golf tees I use in the vent hole of my cans.

The phrase I think I hear most is "Restored to original condition". I tend to take that as meaning that it would be very difficult to distinguish it from a new one. But on the other hand, I suppose if someone had a Frankin' Horse and managed to located and replace all the "Frankin" parts with originals they too might say that it is now "Original" and I suppose they restored it to that condition. Perhaps "Restored to like new original condition" would be less vague.

restore play verb re·store \ri-ˈstȯr\ Popularity: Top 30% of words Simple Definition of restore : to give back (someone or something that was lost or taken) : to return (someone or something) : to put or bring (something) back into existence or use : to return (something) to an earlier or original condition by repairing it, cleaning it, etc. Even Merriam-Webster leaves this open to individual interpretation. As long as you are pleased with the results, that is what is important.

This is just awesome

Everyone has their own definition of a restoration. I've seen people spray paint over the decals,steering wheel and tires and say its restored. In my eyes a restored horse is when someone takes the time to make something look proper ie. put effort into the project.

Running and driving. The footrests are so beyond rusted on there and because I can't just get a new set probably just going to leave them until I find a back up set. I think the dash came out real nice amp gauge is from tsc. Push button and key switch napa, and dash plate thanks glen. This makes #9 ...hi my name is Matt and I'm addicted to wheelhorse lol

My brand new 87 312-8 probably after the first mowing. Gosh, look at that mint seat. Never did have a good Camera back then.

Thanks . I don't have time now . I'll get to it tomorrow . I want to post pictures of my 2 stage snow blower on my 523DXI that I motorized the shoot and deflector . So far no snow this year !

I am now a supporter .

Now for assembly this is all explained in step by step in the manual. I might do things In a little different order but it's the way I do it, like measuring the ring end gap and lapping the valves they are out of the way and these parts are ready for later. I also should mention i have washed all the reused parts 1 day before assembly, this is so they don't rust in the two weeks they sat in my garage waiting for the block. You can wash the parts off in a parts washer , i have even washed them down with brake cleaner and rags. I am using a home made engine stand, but for this part you might need to lay the block on its side Install the pto side crankshaft bearing this will be a tight or snug fit you might want to put the bearing in the freezer for a few minutes before install. I just use a hammer and a brass drift to walk it in. First install the govenor shaft that sticks out of the brass nut on the side of the engine. I lube up the end that sticks into the block and the tab that pushes against the govenor. Then I install the govenor gear itself, don't forget the shim that you hopefully wired to the govenor gear so you didn't lose it Next slide the throttle govenor ring into the brass nut don't forget the choke cable holder. When you tighten the brass nut the throttle ring should spin freely if not you have something out of order or too much paint on something. Install the screw that keeps the govenor from walking off the shaft, don't forget the small copper washer that sits under the Phillips head Lube up the valve tappet shafts and slide them into the block. Some motors can have different height tappets like an exhaust and intake . Then lube the faces of the tappets where the camshaft lobes will be riding. Lube the camshaft rod and slide it in from the flywheel side of the block, through the camshaft and the shim on the pto side that you remembered to wire to the cam. On the flywheel side tap the camshaft rod so it is indented past the surface of the block. This was an earlier kohler so the timing marks are a little different than a newer k series small blck. There was a small dot on the camshaft gear that is now closest to the block I took a paint pen and marked the groove that the dot was located at by highlighting the teeth on each side of the groove. I then took my paint pen and marked the timing mark on the crankshaft. When you install the crank these marks must line up otherwise you engine won't run or run well. It can be a little tricky to understand at first but you'll get it. This is what you want to see Now that the crankshaft is installed properly, the bearing plate is next. Install the bearing into the plate if it isn't already stuck in it. It can be difficult to do this bearing plate shim part but I have found if you take two bolts 1/4-20 size and cut off the heads they make great alignment pins. The thick gray gasket always goes on first. Make sure you take your time to make sure the orientation is correct. The kohler manual says to add two to three of the other shims then measure. I always add three if not put them all in right away either way it's your decision, in the end you just need to stay within specs . I installed 3 and took a measurement and was within spec a little on the tighter side but still in spec, that is okay. So once you have installed your shims put two of the bearing plate bolts in and torque to spec to compress the shims. You then need to measure the gap betwwen the crankshaft and the crank bearings. If the gap is split between both crank bearings you can give a GENTLE persuasion with a soft deadblow hammer to the crankshaft (careful on the threaded end and use caution) I measured the maximum no fit, and the minimum it fit. So it is good to go. Remove the two locating pins you made and install the other bearing plate bolts and tighten to spec. If you do not have enough space or too much you must add or remove the manilla shims accordingly . Then install the crankshaft seals you can buy special drivers for this or if you are comfortable and patient you can walk them in by gently tapping them with a small punch or brass drift. The key is to have them square in the bore when you are finished. The kohler manual tells you proper depth for the seals. I will have to finish writing the rest of this tomorrow.

So yesterday I got a chance to build my k161. I got it back from the machine shop the cost to rebore the cylinder and regrind the valves/seats was $70. The first thing to a quality rebuild is and I cannot stress this enough, USE A CLEAN WORKSPACE! I cleaned the top of my stand with brake clean, anything to remove dirt and debris. If you don't have a metal top to use, try a clean peice of cardboard, something. You just spent money to do this right Don't skip on the clean work bench. Here is the most of my parts I am putting in. I am building this with an aftermarket ebay kit these are not kohler oem parts. I know there are always debates about this but I have built many k series kohlers with great results if you think you need to add your about this do it else where this is a how to thread. You will notice in the background of the parts I have shown two things I like to use but in no way do you have to use them One is high tack Gasket sealant (helps hold the gaskets in place during assembly along with helping resist oil over time) and an assembly grease (you can use SAE 30 oil and still have great results). Here is a shot of the valve seats and cylinder walls, I have a great local machine shop and they do quality work. First I install each piston ring (minus the wavy oil ring spacer) one at a time. I then use the new piston to push it into the cylinder and square it up to the bore. I use one of the cutouts in the piston as a depth gage. Using the chart in my kohler manual I look up the end gap spec for my motor and measure the gap with a feeler gage. I measure for the biggest and smallest accepted gap from the book in this case it was .007" to .017" so I find these two feeler gages and check I want the smallest to fit (then there is enough room for expansion when hot ) and I don't want the biggest to fit otherwise the piston will be sloppy (not to worry about because if your machine shop did a quality job you will be closer to the smaller number). You can find out specifically what each gap is but it is indifferent if you are between the specs. Next I lap the valves. Yes the machine shop did just clean up the surfaces to match but lapping creates a microscopic "fluff" ring that will allow the valve to fully seal against the seat. Once again these two items only cost a couple dollars and can be bought at almost any automotive store. Get a small engine size lapping tool because one for doing chevy 350 valves won't be friendly because the suction cup will be too big. When it comes to the lapping compound there is water or oil based. Personally I prefer oil because it "sticks" to the surfaces better water just seems runny, just my opinion. I apply a small amount of compound to the valve face with my finger. Then suction the lapping tool to the top of the valve. Place the tool in between your hands and roll it back and forth with light pressure and some rapid back and forth speed. This is a sound and feel thing for those who haven't done it before, at first it will grind like sand this is a good thing. As you roll the tool back and forth it will become quieter ( the compound has pushed out of the seat) I lift the lapping tool up which should pick up the valve a little set it back down and keep rolling in my hands. each valve should only that 30 sec to 1 min it is not a lengthy process. Wipe out the seat and the valve with a clean rag (don't want that grit in the motor later) here is what the valve faces should look like. Notice how each valve has a dull light gray ring on its face (this is the "fluff" we just created) notice how uniform it is all around the valve. This shows good contact between the valve and the seat.

Nice find, probably got a real good buy considering the circumstances.

I work 1 Sunday and see what happens?

Here's a NOS Raider 14. My Dad bought a Raider 12 new and it had strips. I think unresolved mystery was the right way to put it.

I changed my other D to a 5.30-10 trailer tire with the same cast iron 4 bolt hub The D160 with the 27.9.50-15 rear tires will be my mower

EZPOURSPOUT.COM

My "restoration" doesn't amount to "like new." Of course, fluids, fuel lines, lots more including sanding, paint and Terry's decals. SS hardware and Never-Seez. Added the dial-a-height adjust, needed that for snow plowin'. Fine machines, working Horses! Save the show Stallions for the artists! Some of the show machines are super! Thanks for saving the Horses!

My breakfast menu for the past 20 years 81mg aspirin blueberries and strawberries whole grain cheerios Except Sundays....today it's Ham, eggs, and home fries

My 60 gal Campbell Hausfeld air compressor

I like your thinking 953 Nut. I would however say this about definitions given by a dictionary. While the dictionary can accurately define words, it doesn't consider the paradigm in which the word exists in the real world, because that isn't the job of defining a word. A definition of a word is just part of its meaning which also includes the paradigm in which the word lives and understanding that meaning is done by the acceptance of the framework by a group. Merriam-Webster may define the word "blowout" as an easy one sided victory among other definitions, but that one word doesn't really define or explain the game or the feeling. But you are correct, "as long as you are pleased with the results, that is what is important".

Steve, I have loved watching this thread developed over the last couple of years & I am delighted for you at how awesome your Chevy has turned out, here's now looking forward to seeing Some summery pics of the ole girl cruising the highways. I have a few pics of my little English version of the Chevy , my 1968 morris minor pickup.

To me a full restoration means just that "Full" ,,, meaning engine refresh , trans, all mechanical parts and pieces ,, paint , nuts and bolts,, to me anything less is a "Refresh" touch up paint ,, replacing missing items ,, replacing some parts to warn for proper opperation.. Just my 2 cents worth..

I love some of the posting on CL 1) Contact by Phone , no phone number 2) X for sale X is surrounded by everything from A - Z 3. Listing is for C 141 but picture is a C 145 4. No one ever calls you back. 5. Item is sold , "I remove it today" , Week later its still there Worked on Taxes all day it make anyone cranky

This was our family's store from the 1980's through early 1990's.

Not my favorite tool to have to use but my IR air hammer has gotten me out of more jams than I can shake a stick at!

Agreed,looks nice! and how fast? We might need a video to see how fast.

Yeah, but... when you least expect it, that tape adhesive jumps off the seat, and onto your pants.

I get it....now I wasn't aware there was a fan base for vises, I thought this one was junk. I also found a horizontal band saw at the same scrap place, just needed two wire nuts inside the junction box. I was driving to the VA the other day and stopped by a roadside swap and shop and found a couple of scrap plows. I only bought them because they were only 10 bucks. I'm a cheap SOB

I truly enjoyed that post Petes I feel the same way, amazing what they built back then with pride and integrity. Built to last and built to serve. That's why we love

If someone could put a link to their website to make it easier I don't how . They have videos , parts list , can list ,to make things easy . The long high flow spout makes filling those tricky spots a breeze (generators , boats ,ect). I too bought extra vents to fix some older cans and keep some on hand for later use . Some of these new cans are just junk ( B&S to name one ) , the spouts are garbage .

Pulled apart another starter generator and rebuilt it today, have been painting the engine block all week. Going to order engine parts this week then off to the machine shop. Need to do some more painting soon to finish it up, then some assembly required.