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My 1964 /604. Still trying to find the correct seat,and steering wheel. I'll find one someday I'm sure. And my 1964 lawn ranger that haden't ran in yrs but she's running like new now!

The 857 was my Dad's and I think it was his go to horse. I like that the hood lifts up, unlike the Round Hoods that use the thumb screws. The 8 hsp Kohler will start just by looking at it and will run all day on a tank of gas. Cornering is hard to beat...almost zero turn. This tractor has not been OSHA'd yet...easy wiring and electrical maintenance, and no fuses everywhere. I really like the rear discharge 36" mower decks for these horses...gear driven. And I pick up more chicks riding around the block with this horse, and any of the others that I have...it is a chick magnet.

I alluded to this tractor in my other project tractor thread but figured it should have it's own to for future reference. What I started with was a D200 that I was told had a locked up rear end and no engine. Turns out the parking brake had been set and there was enough play in the motion control lever to allow it back into the forward/reverse space. Undid the parking brake and there is no more grinding noises from the rear end. I'm calling this a win. Ag rear tires 3 point rear PTO Spring assisted seat Seat with arm rests and slider to accommodate different size drivers without unbolting anything. Looked like this when I picked it up: The steering was worn out to say the least. The front axle was also missing many bushings so that is why the front tires look like they have so much camber. I decided that I didn't want to rebuild or reuse the ross steering column or wheel horse front end. From my experience with my D160 is it takes a parking lot to turn it around in. I wanted something tighter and a bit more nimble on the steering front. Enter John Deere and Cub Cadet parts. Picked up a cub cadet super steer front axle. These have a 3/4" front mounting hole where the wheel horse one is 1". Leaves a few options: 1. Bore out cub axle to 1" for wheel horse front axle pin. 2. Make the wheel horse axle pin 3/4" on the lathe 3. Combination of the two which is what I did. I turned the wheel horse pin down enough to ensure it was round and I opened the cub cadet axle up to match what I made the wheel horse pin. I believe it was 15/16". If one wanted you could easily just bore/drill the cub axle out to 1" and stuff the wheel horse front pin in place. The cub axle is also a bit narrower so a spacer was required to prevent the axle from sliding front to back. I used washers as a temporary solution until I determine exactly where I want the front axle to sit. Wheel horse wheels on a cub cadet front axle is a no go. Different length spindles. Opted for some new high speed 1" spindles/bearings and trailer wheels with lawn tires mounted on them. This cub cadet front axle is also designed for power steering. I figured as long as I was doing this, might as well go for broke so to say. Picked up a 5 port John Deere power steering column and steering cylinder. Mounted the steering column as many others have. Decided to put the power steering cylinder on the left side (by the clutch pedal). I'll get pictures of this and the mount once I finalize engine placement. I removed it all to avoid unintentionally damaging it moving the engine and such around. Which brings us to an engine and where this project currently sits. I searched for a kohler single cylinder or a twin of some sort. Couldn't find anything I was willing to pay for. Things that needed rebuilds were more then a new Harbor Freight 22hp twin or the same price with low hours. People have been having good luck with these HF twins in the John Deere world so figured I'd give it a try. Test fitting a few things here to see where they need to be lined up at Adapter from SmallEngineWarehouse for a Honda GX630/660/690 to Kohler flywheel adapter. For the electric PTO I used a clutch from kohler twin with dual pulleys. I had to use a sleeve adapter to get from the 1" shaft on the predator to the 1 1/8" on pulley. For the pump (mine had no splines and already had a key and key way cut into it) coupler, what I had originally planned was to use a stub shaft from a kohler engine mated to a jaw coupling. However, that won't work now that I slid the engine back farther to the rear to line up both of the PTO pulleys. So, I'm going to have another piece added onto the SEW adapter that is a piece of 1" round stock with a key way cut into it. Probably won't get to that this evening but hopefully soon. That's as far as we have things.

Way to go Koen... showing the big boys how gets it done.

I might as well throw the wrench in this. The guys above are correct...but if you want a really easy starting, better gas efficiency and sharper turning...with all of the above and about a 4" shorter frame...you want a short frame. square hood. 1965, 1966, 1967. My B-100 is sitting out the winter in the garage while my 876 and 857 are doing snow duty this winter. The 8 hsp Kohler has plenty of power to tackle any chore. If there is a down side, they do not have the 8 speed transmission, but the hydro solves that issue. Of course...there is no issue when you have one of each.

Tillers work front or rear.....buy one or build one.

We all love to watch other people work!

Will anyone have an RJ-58 or an RJ-59 for sale at the Big wheel horse show in Arendtsville, PA this year? If so let me know, I'd be interested. And if you have any other wheel horse stuff you're bringing down to the show to sell or trade, any wheel horse stuff, post what you will have for sale in the comments with the price! thanks

Just got in from the first round of plowing. It was about three inches with a total forecast for maybe six inches in areas. Now the forecast is revised for up to eight inches. An hour later and it doesn't even look like I did anything! I have a feeling that I will be making one more trip to my four neighbors and my driveway. The bad part is that it will move to freezing rain tonight as it warms. Up to 1/4" for that part of Olympia so tomorrow might be dicier than today. The new Kenda K502 Terra Trac tires worked great even without the wheel weights but with the four suitcase weights on the back., It walked right up one neighbor's steep driveway. There are photos from todayof the tires' tracks in the snow to show how aggressive these tires are in my original tire install posting. I am pleased with the UHMW edge as well.

Love the 12 hp, 14 hp's and the 16 hp Kohlers. All easy to service and rarely need it much. Great garden tractors.

Pretty much what Dennis said is what I was going to say. But if you are looking for something simple to service, powerful enough to cut grass, push snow, and other chores, and is a good looking rig, you can't beat the 1976 or 1977 B-100 or C-120 8-speeds. And it is all metal!

so i figured since i see all kinds of people with projects so since i'm in the process of restoring am a-100 i thought you guys it like to the progress. ill get some pictures of it later today to post.

Let's see some snow removal pics from this snow storm Olympia ! We did not have much here in Greencastle, Indiana yesterday but it snowed from about 12:30 to 5:00 PM. We received about four inches of snow but I did get out about 5:30 and cleared the drive. I used the 314 Wheel Horse ! Let's see some more photos of your equipment!

Didnt know how else to post these pics of my tractor so im trying it here.. Except the seat which im getting a new one in spring these seem to always rip.. A cloth one this time, but anyway this is my baby !! The cloth in front of the engine is a heating pad to keep the engine warm,, it is 3 degrees right now so have to keep her warm and snuggly !!

Here are a few more pictures. I made a few modifications to the engine mount square tube to make it easier to access the hardware on the inside. Power steering stuffs Brake pedal isn't attached with a roll pin. It's just sitting on there with a cotter pin to make sure nothing is going to hit each other. I have another piece made up to go from the top front of the steering column to the cross piece for the rear of the hydro pump. I'm thinking that I'll end up replacing the hard lines with some soft ones to make it easier to get the column in/out if I ever need to. I don't know if I have any more ability/skills then others do. I am very fortunate that I own (cnc plasma table, bridgeport vertical mill, lathe, some welders and a warm place to work) and have access to some useful tools thanks to some of my friends professions. I didn't go to school for any of this stuff, just something I started doing because I thought it was fun.

I just got done with the snowblower. we got about 2 1/2 inches. The minute I started the snow changed to sleet. thats ok. wasnt deep enough and with the new bearings the snowblower sings. did a great job. sorry. I only got a couple night pictures. Its will turn to rain later. but at least had some fun. she did the wheel horse job. like its supposed to. Glenn

This is for single stage blowers: This year, I bought one for $250. It needed $130 in repairs/parts to put it into good reliable working condition. Last year I bought one for $400 (with tire chains). It needed a bearing for $30. So you have a range; $380 to $430 after repairs, about the same as the numbers Tim told. These are prices in MA/NH. Also, any blower you find must have the lift spring, lift tube, crank, and flag. If is missing those, deduct at least $75. A word of advise, even a good looking unit may not have been properly maintained. Belts, chains, bearings, idler and drive sprockets rarely get replaced until after they are failing. Racking up $100 in parts is pretty easy to do.

So now that you've brought up the B-100 which I know is your favorite WheelHorse, what is the difference between a B-100-8 speed and a C-101-8 speed of the same years? Other than the obvious that yours is immaculate and mine is less than stellar!

Here's my neighbor on his horse as I post this. We got about 3 to 6 inches here in northern Indiana.

Here's a few pics Serial number is 3114k802. 20497 The guy I bought it from was selling it for his father. He said his dad bought it new in 77 or 78. Just don't think it's that old. Anyway of finding out

I drove (hand on the throttle) my D160 in the rear of my 1996 Dodge van, here's pictures

It's silly and fun. I'm sure as kids we all dreamed about being a super hero or something.

just picked up my first wheelhorse. its a 414-8.. not familiar with them at all until recently. ran across one local and thought what a neat little tractor. bought it for yard work and small food plots etc on my hunting land. original one owner , ill get pics up asap..looking for a tiller if someone ccan point me in the right direction

If that's all the exhaust you'll be running, it's going to be one loud machine!

For my K341 in the old Ford I had, setting the point gap with the feeler gauges was just a preliminary. You then hook up a timing light and looking through a hole in the blower cover with the engine running, fine tune the adjustment until the timing marks line up. This sets the timing exactly and the engine will run at it's best.

My choice would be a Black Hood. What the heck, just go big!

Here is an update on the K502 tires. I feel that they are a nice compromise to a turf with chains and ag with chains in the snow. A bit more aggressive in spacing between the blocks for snow but able to bite on ice as well.

My experience is that the reproduction heat shield are just as good if not better than the originals. Less pitted rust marks in most cases. Several being made by Red Square members. The original belt guards are hard to find unless still with the RJ. However, I have seen reproduction belt guards that fit better and when the drive belt ran thru it were less noisy etc. The originals usasully have a lot of wear ! I have also used a Harley Davidson Soft tail chrome heat shield on my 1958 RJ when going to some shows -as it adds a little bling to the tractor and fits perfectly (just slightly smaller than original RJ heat shield)

All our Horses get some snow pushin' duty. One grandson loves the 416-8, another the Work Horse, I prefer the '90 520-8 but would rather pick bananas in Key West.

Thanks to Aldon's help and guidance, I finally found the rear axle seals for my GT 14. The original WH OEM part # 6449 (described as Seal, 1 1/8 I.D.), is no longer available. Fortunately there are modern conversion cross references which focuses on duplicating original seal dimensions. Its my understand almost all seals (and bearings as well) are standardized in sizing and dimension so they can be used for a multitude of different applications for long periods of time. I'm not sure when industry standards were established for common items like these, but thank goodness a standard was established, meaning modern replacement components can be utilized in most instances for mechanical and machine devices decades after the original item was manufactured. That's good for us WH folks restoring or simply trying to keep things running on tractors which may go back nearly 70 years. So here's the basic info to replace a 6449 Wheel Horse oil seal: Wheel Horse Part Number: 6449 Bore or Outside Diameter: 1.624 - Reference (1.625 = 1 5/8") Shaft or Inside Diameter Range: 1 1/8" Width: 0.256 - Reference (0.250 = 1/4") Construction Description: Dual Lip Spring Loaded Seal Lip Material: Nitrile Rubber Type of Product: Oil Seal Here are a few direct replacement oil seals I located. The common auto industry conversion number for this 6449 seal is 11124. My guess is any major auto parts chain supplier has this seal, and it may in fact be made by the same manufacturer. A common manufacturer seems to be SKF. In a search for the seal, individual suppliers may attach their own prefix code to 11124, but it will be the same seal. This is what I got from NAPA. http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NOS11124_0338963144?interchange=1 $8.29 EACH ______________________________________________________ Here's a couple of additional sources: https://www.motionindustries.com/productDetail.jsp?sku=01296558 $5.43 EACH Type of Product: Oil Seal - Inches Shaft or Inside Diameter Range: 1-1/8 in Bore or Outside Diameter: 1.624 in Width: 0.256 in Lip Material: Nitrile Rubber Construction Description: Dual Lip, Spring Loaded Without Inner Case Typical Application: Engines, Axles, Transmissions, Pumps, Motors, Speed Reducers, Many Other Industrial Uses. Continuous Temperature Range: -40 To 250°F Maximum Shaft Surface Speed: 2,000 FPM Misalignment Tolerance: Size Dependent "Refer To The 457010 Catalog" Synonym: Radial Lip Shaft Seal For Oil Or Grease; Barrier; Type / Style Construction: CRWA1 Weight Ea. (Lbs.): 0.030 Pressure Tolerance: 90 PSI @ 0 FPM Type Series: 1-1/8 in Catalog Feature 1: Nitrile _____________________________________________________ wheelhorsestables.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_68&product_id=69 $5.45 EACH Wheel Horse Stables also carries other oil seals applicable to Wheel Horse applications: wheelhorsestables.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=63_68 _____________________________________________________ I also located a helpful tip sheet for oil seal installations: http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/1358554pdf?$PDF$

Is this your doing? http://www.engadget.com/2016/02/08/world-s-fastest-mobility-scooter-hits-record-107-6-mph/

need some help identify what I have in the below pictures. From looking at other threads on the site I have it narrowed down to a 61 suburban 401 with a replacement tescumseh hs40 engine. Just want to see if I am correct or not. I just got the hs40 back to life, fits tractor quite well and would like to keep it on there, my issue is I have a 9 year old son that is getting more anxious by the day to get on this thing and drive, before that happens I need a belt guard, right now the transmission pulley to the engine measures around 9 1/4" and the clutch to the engine around 5 1/2", there are a couple advertised on ebay and just wondering if would be lucky enough to get one that would bolt on. I was hoping that once I confirmed it is a 61 401 someone could measure to see how close this set up is.

i had my first plowing competition last sunday. ended up in last because i had to plow with the big boys anyway here's some pics of the day the first one of the day: my try on a opening furrow then i had a little hickup with the engine suddenly shutting down on me, wouldn't restart at first but after a couple minutes it started back up and ran strong the rest of the day don't have much to say about this one, just looked nice and here's me plowing

back when i was a kid i was driving my dad's D200 down the driveway when the infamous pinon bolts snapped and came out through the bottom of the housing. now the tractor had the cast iron 50 lbs wheel weights and 180 lbs of calcium in each rear wheel. dad called his dealer and he came down and picked up that D200 and loaded it in the back of a Datsun pickup, when he pulled out of the drive the rear bumper was all but touching the ground, lucky for him he only had to go about 9 miles up the road. the 1 st three pictures are of the tractor the day i dug it out of it's 19 year storage and the last 2 were taken last year eric j

Boy! This is going to be fun and take a bit of time but others will chime in and help. Just a quick comment or two: For the longest time I thought the B series was just a smaller than the C series tractor. Nope! The early Bs, like the B-60 & B-80s were the same frame as the Cs but without some options. Later the Bs went to vertical engines, weaker trannies and were no longer really a garden tractor. Indeed the D's are big boy tractors but also keep a keen eye out for 953s, 1054s, GT-14s, C-195s and the newer 5XIs! The C, 300s, 400s and 500 (not the 5XIs!) are the same frame sizes and have plentiful choices of attachments, unlike the more limited D series and the 5XIs. If I had to limit myself to one WH I would cry, but then I might oddly enough look for one I don't even have! The GT-14s and C-195s have become very appealing to me! Oh my 5XIs are bigger and in several ways better, newer and more advanced but the larger wheels, more common attachments (though some are different!) and 3 pt hitches are really desirable! Realize that a big book would need to be written to fully address your short question!

I've had three miniature ponies and two Llamas in the back of that van as well, piece of advice, don't go through the Dairy Queen drive through to get them a ice cone, or the girl at the window will run away and not come back.

Shoulda put the S-10 on the back of the D

Heres the process of tearing down a hydro pump from a D. I will do my best to describe everything in detail so that anyone can handle it. I must say with Paul Frederis help we tore it down, cleaned and rebuilt it in 4 hours including tearing it down a second time because of MAJOR rust issues causing binding of the pistons. I will do this in chronological order as best as I can Step #1 Here is the pump before tear down. You need to remove the four 12 point bolts using a 3/8 12 point socket wrench in order to seperate the aluminum housing from the cast steel valve body STEP # 2 shows the bolts out and the pump housings seperated. Be ready to struggle slightly if your pump was never opened. It was necessary for us to put the aluminum part in a vice and hit the steel end with a dead blow hammer and brass punch to get it to sperate from the gasket/adhesive. You must rest the pump on its side or you will lose slippers and other items if you do it in the upright position. Upon opening it a large quantity of rust was found inside formed on the steel end suggesting water infiltration. Step #3 In this photo you can see the rusty liquid on the slippers and the general shape of them. They were scratched but the corners were square and not rounded over, which is very important Step #4In this pic Paul is trying to clean the rust off of the oil pump housing. As you can tell it was pretty rough. The 4 bolts here are 12 point also, you need to use a 5/16 12 point socket socket to remove these. this is another pic of the pump housing and the rust and bolts. Also pay attention to the orientation of the small pin location on the oil pump housing. Its on the botton of the pic and must be that way for reassembly. It is very important for reassembly that this faces the same way. Step #5 Here is the oil pump gear in the housing. You must mark this on the housing and impeller before you take it apart. Every lobe only fits its mating surface 1 way. If you screw it up the pump will bind and not pump oil to feed the cylinder, slippers and swash plate. The o-rings are the same set up as the manifold with a square backer ring and a regular o-ring on top to seal. Step #6 In this step you need to remove the charge valves. They are 5/8 standard socket. It is an O.R.B.( O Ring Boss). These were pretty tight but did come loose. Here are some close ups of the charge valve. We made a legal notebook map so we could be sure it all went back together well. one side has a spring and a ball, the other side has a small tapered shaft and spring. Later models of this pump had balls and springs in both sides. One thing to note is that occasionally you will find shims between the spring and ORB fitting. These were installed when the pumps didnt make enough pressure during testing. The shim increased tension on the spring and therefore raises the oil pressure just like it would in an oil pump for an engine. Step #7Next pics are a close up of the housing showing the accelerator valve removed. There are 2 of these. 1 on each side. They are the large straight head screwdriver tip recessed into the block. They are ORB also but damn were they tight. We needed to use an impact driver to break them loose. All thats inside is a ball and spring. Step #7Next pic is of the push valve. Remove it and check to be sure there are no gouges in the tapered area. If there are, oil will leak by and cause speed to slow and pump to overheat eventually during use. Step #8This is the inside of the aluminum housing. It shows the direction control where the swash plate sits. The can be removed if needed by removing the spring clip on the shaft where it comes through the outside of the housing on the flush side, not the long side that the direction linkage attaches. You then pull the shaft out and the swash plate resting surface will clunk into the bottom of the housing for you to pull out. The only reason to do this would be to replace a bad bearing. Step #9 Here is a close up of the swash plate during polishing. I started with 800 grit, moved to 1200 and then to the crocus cloth as the final step. DO NOT use water to lubricate the crocus cloth. it causes the adhesive to melt and the cloth to become junk. Use oil only for lube. This is a before of the swash plate showing severe rusting from the water that was inside this pump. this is after the three step polishing sequence. As you can see its a mirror now Step #10Here is the brass direction control valve plate showing scratches and oxidation. This also goes throught the 3 step process of polishing. This is the same peice after polishing Step #11 is the polishing of the slippers themselves. We made a diagram so that we could install them back in the bores they came from. After all that work we ended up with my original cylinder too rusty to be used. The slippers bound up and we had to take the pump all apart again and use a different cylinder after we got it all back together and it wouldnt budge. Step #12 is the installation of the slippers back into the cylinder. Be sure to install the slipper retainer BEFORE you install the slippers. They wont fit if you dont. Step #13 is the installation of the swash plate back into the direction control section. This pic shows it cleaned This pic is right before installation of the cylinder and slippers. Use lots of oil on both sides of the swash plate so theres no galling on start up. It will suck to do all this work and wipe it out with a dry start. Step #13 Assemble with the unit on its side. If you dont, you will lose slippers from the cylinder bore as you slide it down over the shaft and then have to start over. Once the cylinder is installed on the shaft, then flip the housing to the vertical position. Step #14 is to reinstall the charge valves, accelerator valves, springs and shims where they came from. A little grease on the springs wont hurt. It will stop them from moving and going caddywhompus when you install them in the bore above the ball at the bottom Step #15 Shows the proper orientation of the oil pump impeller in the housing. Take notice to our marks to be sure we had it right. You then reinstall the pump assembly onto the housing using the four 5/16 12 point cap screws you removed at disassembly. Again be sure the pin is at the bottom when assembling. Step #16 shows the new gasket prior to assembling both halves . I made this one the same way as the motor housing in my original resto post. Using a hammer to cut the material. Step #17 its all back together and ready to go back in my 18 Auto.

I would just love to find an 8 speed Work Horse......THAT clean......i'd be one happy camper !!!!!!!

@Lane Ranger we only got around 1.5" yesterday. The temperature got up to 35*F today, so the streets were all clear as well as the drive when I got home from work. To be honest, it won't hurt my feelings if I don't have to plow any at all this winter! Damn, I must be getting old and/or depressed!

But 857 horse its my machine lmao !!!

I had a problem that sounds like this. The problem was the 4 bolts in the differential were loose. One actually broke. The gear on the diff was loose from the side plates and made play in the drive train. Things had to "catch up". Most noticeable going downhill.

Adjusting the governor would be a good start.

Rustoleum Regal Red ! Right now there Hanging like Christmas ornaments....I have been advised to leave them alone for a couple months while the Rustoleum Hardens. Then they will be VERY durable. Sorry the photos came out a little dark

Got my eBay GT 14 spare hubs on Wednesday and rounded up all the hardware to fab a puller and started on the right rear hub yesterday. Bought 1" x 6" and 1 x 8" bolts, and 3/8 bolts in 4" and 5" lengths, plus washers and nuts to adapt the eBay hub to my tractor mounted hub. Got everything mounted and hooked up and got started on the right side hub (the one that hadn't moved inward toward the housing). I was a matriculating hub pulling freshmen, and even with all I've read about this process and suggestions about how to best proceed, I will admit to being perplexed and worried about literally "pulling this off". I knew this was generally one of those "*****" type jobs that......as they say, can try a man's soul. And make his vocabulary more vocal and expansive, even objectionable. Since I had scoped out the axle seal replacement thing yesterday morning and located replacements, I was much less worried about applying heat as I continued. So what if I melted those suckers down to the floor, as long as I knew I could get new seals to replace the old critters. Got everything hooked up and started. Things were going real slow between alternating tightening the 1" bolt against the axle end and tightening the 3/8" bolts. I've been treating the hub with PB blaster for days and since I had located the proper replacement axle seals, I wasn't worried about heating the hubs up with a mapp gas torch several times. I've been told too much heat exposure renders seals to worse leakage, so great caution is called for if one doesn't intend to replace those seals. Aldon here on RS, who is doing the GT 14 resto-mod, is the one that convinced me to the replace the seals while I was in there working in the area. There has been evidence of leakage, but not horrific leakage, and they are likely the OEM originals. If so, I'd say 47 years is damn good service life! Alternating several times between heating, PB application (my Kroil order hasn't arrived yet), light tapping with a ball peen hammer at right angles to the axle shaft around the hub, and use of the puller, I was able to finally remove the hub from the axle. Its not anything a guy is going to hurry up very much. It has its own pace to do it safely and without damaging anything. I tried to do the bulk of the loading on the puller after thoroughly heating the hub. It took me a total of about three hours to get it off. One thing that would have been helpful would have been having 1" bolts with more threading. The 6" bolt only had 2 1/2" of threading, and the 8" bolt had only 3" of threading. What I found, because of the axle shaft length of the hubs are about 4 3/8" in length, the limited threading on the bolts limited its travel to "push away" from the axle end. I had to stop and insert sockets into the hub to increase the travel distance of each bolt. The bolt that worked best for me was the 8" bolt. If it had even a 4" threaded section, it would have made a difference. A 1" bolt with about 5" of threading would have been perfect for my application with these GT 14 hubs and completely eliminated having to use anything for a spacer to increase the travel of the bolt. I don't know if threading like that is available on 1" bolts, but it would have made it a one step operation......I wouldn't have had to back everything off to inset a socket. Another factor was I discovered something akin to the old carpenter's theory of if you can't move something with one hammer, you get a bigger hammer. The force required to pull these hubs, even using a like hub as a puller, as I found out, is considerable. I found I got to a point where I couldn't exert enough leverage with what I was using (a larger pipe wrench) to turn the 1" bolt. Solution: create a longer lever (i.e. a bigger hammer). I had a piece of heavy walled steel tubing which would slide over the pipe wrench handle extending its length to about 3 1/2'. Definitely a longer lever. It allowed me to continue turning that bolt inward, but still at some significant muscular effort. Not a cakewalk, for sure. What was interesting examining the right side axle after hub removal was there were places no penetrating oil had seeped, even after using all that heat on the hub. These areas were essentially dry, but had a red oxide coloration which was evidence of water infiltration over time. There was lots of evidence of water infiltration in the area of the keyway slot in the hub for the woodruff key on the axle. If I ever get the hubs back on after a serious clean up on the mating surfaces of the axle and the hub, I think I'll seal the open areas of the keyway with a dab of clear silicone to inhibit moisture infiltration. My tractor has been garaged the entire time of my ownership (35 years) with the exception of maybe five nights being left outside during mowing season for a problem that occurred that required being left in place until the next day. I can't imagine trying to pull hubs on something left outside for years, either covered or uncovered. Today I'm going to move around to the left side and start on that hub. This is the one the has slid inward about 1 1/8" from the end of the axle, where it originally was located. I think this hub will be tougher to get off, but that's conjecture on my part and we'll see how is goes. I now "get it" how pulling hubs can make a man lose his religion or start drinking earlier in the day. I may need to stock up for the next axle. Regards, Steve

Got it in the shed with the 310-8 and my kids tractors. I was happy the plow fit in the door!

I pretty much quit working on it this summer. It's just too hot and humid. Last winter I had far too many other projects going to spend much time on the 400. Besides working out there I was having gloss paint dry dull. The wheels gave me fits. All I can think of is the heat and humidity was messing with the paint. We had a couple better days and I was finally able to finish them and get her back on all fours. The hood shouldn't take a whole lot more body work. The motor runs fine but the PO put a tapered crankshaft in it and welded the pulley. I'll be grinding that off and installing the right crankshaft. I'll go ahead and rebuild the carb while I have it apart and I'll also tap the exhaust port. This WILL get finished this winter and then it's on to a 500 Special.

There are several how to threads on Sundstrands http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/37051-d-series-hydro-motor-reassemble-vid-part1/ http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/32936-rebuilding-a-hydro-pump-from-a-d/ What are you looking to do??