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I've noticed when ever some one starts talking about the BIG SHOW,,,,my left foot starts rapping the floor like an old dog with an itch... Is it just me??? Something in the water??? something in Bieglersville??,,,, in the Pie?? or parhaps that space on the inside of the first turn where i park my reds....and a few lawn chairs ?? Any wayyyy ,,,, im ready to pack !!!!!!

Last years show I was offered $80 for my very old showerhead muffler and when I said "Are you crazy" -the guy offered my $100. I did not sell but even yours is worth some big money! I have one of each of my RJ's!

Ready to Pack? You're way behind me Howard! All I have left to do is buy the pie!

I am in total agreement Dave. I got pretty busy this week but I am going to add the WH CC MEMBER LOGO TO ALL THE DESIGNS SOON.

Terry, I am also a WHCC member. Quite honestly, every RedSquare support member who is attending the Big Show should be a WHCC member. If not, they should be. This is a tremendous event that the WHCC hosts.

So I've posted a few times already and been given great advice...figured I would start my own rebuild thread... engine is is strong so hoping to mess with it as little as possible. Goal is to wire wheel everything, paint, put together and get this tractor back to work. Late the last night got my wheel off, only took an hour....today pulled my tool box, which is welded to the gas tank stand as a whole piece. Frankly at this point I'm feeling intimidated lol. I'll be needing fresh wires, fuel line, and choke and throttle cables if anyone wants to recommend me on that stuff.

I will be glad for the Big Show to get here. Clothes are packed in plastic bag ( From Lowes) and all I need to pack is the suitcase full of old man pills. What kind of pie?

This would worry me that the sharp front edge of the drawbar might crack the tranny housing from the impact if the weight would bounce. I don't have my weights mounted this way, but if I did, I would add a plate between the drawbar and the case to spread out the load. The plate could be tapped for a couple small bolts and fender washers that could clamp it to the bar to keep it in place.

Well, It's pretty easy. If the gears are shifting OK, there might be a simple disconnect in the drive train. The first check is with the tractor running and the transmission in gear, check both axles to see if one is turning inside the hub. If one is turning, the key is sheared and must be replaced. If neither axle is turning, then remove the belt guard and check to see if the transmission input shaft turns when you turn the pulley. If it doesn't turn the shaft, the key is sheared or lost. If the input shaft is turning and neither axle is turning with the transmission in gear, you have a broken gear or shifter fork inside the transmission and will have to replace or rebuild the transmission. Do a search for " transmission repair" and you will find excellent instructions by member stevasaurus on these rebuilds.

Better toss Stevbo's wooden nickel right out. If he does win, the're may be a riot!

Thanks sparky I will be getting it in one week!

Will be my first show. Is it time yet????

1st trip will be this year can't come soon enough. Oh I almost forgot need to get that 1045 done.

I would think a piece of PVC pipe (1 1/4" diameter) longer than the axle and cut very straight would work to "drive" the new seal into place. Just my idea......

I often thought about adding extra weight this way myself,, and thought a good way to cushion the draw bar against the trans case was to put a either bicycle or motorcycle grip from like a motor cross bike on the drawbar so it is cusioned against the trans,, because of the width of it they seem to fit tight enought they wont move and should provide adiquit protection,, just a thought,, or maybe a piece of minning belt , or simular hard rubber.

sure sounds like the shifter fork,it sounds like its(high low )is stuch in middle of stroke,

Well as the title suggests, my Grandfather had a truck. as a young kid I rode in the truck with him as we would get break fast from a Pancake house early in the morning as we visited them in Pennsylvania in the summer. That truck was one of the most exciting things to see when we would visit. 8 Years ago they moved to a retirement center and sold the Truck to a neighbors brother who owned a Garage for truck repair for $1000. Now just last week we called the neighbor, called the garage, and found the owner the garage sold the truck to...for $2000. So we called the current owner who used it as a work truck off the road in a little backwoods nursery. Anyways, I bought it for $1000. 500 from me, 200 from my parents, and 300 from my grandparents. Needless to say i was very happy. 1988 F250 HD 2WD Open Diff. 4.9L/300CI Inline 6 C6 auto (3 speed) Reg. Cab LB Dual 19 Gal. Tanks Embossed "F O R D" Logo on TailGate est. 160,000 miles Factory working A/C, and questionable radio manual and smokers windows

This has been discussed here before but I would say 300 pounds no problem

If you have time, I would soak the set screws with PB Blaster for a week, then try to remove them with the correct size allen socket that is new or ground sharp on the bottom. Tap the socket into the set screw before attempting to turn it. There are also tapered (easy out type) allen tools available that can be driven into the head of a damaged set screw. You could also try heat with these same tools. If you can't get it out, you should be able to drill it out with a carbide drill bit .The jack shaft should slide out if you unbolt and remove the bearings at both ends and remove the drive pulley.

Mid May will be fine Hank All images need to be posted by May31st.

Well, I have started making up some parts for the blade angling. Bracket will bolt to the frame and has been fitted. Frame has also been drilled and a guide fitted for the release cable to pass through. Angling rod will be 2 piece with a joiner for fine tuning turn handle position. Pipes have been bent, larger pipe to be cut down and welded to bracket. Smaller pipe will have handle and turn bar welded to it. Small piece of pipe with several holes is to connect release cable to blade lock pin. I will keep updating as parts get finished.

I have a piece of 1" black pipe with chicken wire rolled up and jammed in. Works well for a while. Was plowing yesterday and shot a chunk out......Time to re-pack!

Happy 17th birthday!

Well you could be like the real show dogs and run the hotdog or a pepper pot for everyday use then switch to the shower for show!?!?

If the back is good I can fix them if you decide to fix it or or sell it please send me a PM Brian

Yeah definitely rare these days that kids my age are into this. To bad he didn't have a wheel horse, next week while getting his truck I just found, I'm picking up my grandfather cub cadet 100 he bought new in 64. In Pennsylvania where the truck was driven the roads weren't really salted so the truck has just about zero rust problems. The worst is bubbling over the rear wheel wells. Also more pictures will come next week.

Seems the shower head is probably too thin to be saved on the outlet side. Perhaps the top of a pepper pot could be attached to the cone shaped base of the shower head.

I would buy the pepper pot style and use it,then u have time to get the original repaired and put it away so u have it but wear out the cheap imitation,just my 2 cents

The Magnum has a different starter,and flywheel than the K series.The throttle and choke are connected differently than the K series,at least the the ones I have are different. Internally I have read that the crank counter weights are lighter requiring the balance weights be used.Because the Magnum series doesn't use points the normal K ignition switch will not shut off the engine.The ignition has to go to ground as opposed to switched to open.The Magnum is a good choice to replace a K if you know what needs to be addressed to make it run and shut off.Engine swaps are what keep these old girls running.I have a 16 K in place of the 220 Onan that came in my 520h so if the price on the Magnum is reasonable and it is in good shape go for it.Luck,JAinVA

I thought you said old... My daily driver is a 98 with a 147,000. Newest vehicle I`ve ever owned. Glad you got Pap`s truck. It will last a long time..

I'm in this year, can't wait 'til June. Thank you Terry for all you do.

Here ya go Jay.

here are the pics here the wheel horse c-120 with the golden wisconsin engine wheel horse 416-8 wheel horse c-111 wheel horse 1257 wheel horse c-81 wheel horse 417 A with a 18 hp kohler engine wheel horse commando 7 more pics from the other horses comes later

Jim.....bring your lawn chair Oh yeah....the pie.....Squonk has the list,,,,,,,,,,i have a cooler full of ice.....ice tea,,,,water,,,,and space for a pie,,,,,,,,yeah gottah bring a fork !!

only a couple of inches up here,up north a few hours they are getting hammered,nothing here,very strange year,not one big snow fall,whats next snow in july

larger sized torx bits can sometimes work great at removing stripped allen headed bolts. Pound it in as far as possible and keep pressure on your ratchet while attempting to turn and break free the stripped bolt.

Drive up and over to mount and dismount. Yes they are a bear to move around. I had one and sold it just because of the having to deal with it when not on the tractor. I will say this though, it did a nice job of mowing. One other thing I did notice was it was very hard on the tractor. Caused more wear and tear then other decks. I could always look at a 520 and tell if it was used with a 60" deck on it. From what I have seen of the front mower carriers a 60 is just not feasible to put on there.

Yes Tankman that is exactly how i set it up. The 4" stroke of this actuator is a touch long but not enough to be a major issue, i think 3.75" would be ideal. I thought about the 45 degree angle a bit and its not making sense in my head but its obviously working for JB. Those warner actuators are a good product but in the 3-400 dollar range was way out of budget for this experiment. I would have to think you could do it with hydraulics in that price range.

What is it??? I have a GT 14 and it doesn't look familiar to me. We may need more pics of this to identify it if you don't know what it is.

Hey John, I like that chain breaker! I bought a more elaborate one for $14, works OK, but I was looking for something simpler, kind of like my bicycle chain breaker but more robust. BTW, the bicycle chain breaker cost $29-but cyclists are willing to pay more usually

Congrats, You can't beat those old trucks.

Thanks. I'll fix the gasket problem and recheck. No valve seat problem on the side I have apart. I'm also going to adjust the valves while I'm at it if I can ever get the exhaust off.

I would also give it a good wire brushing and a little patch job and you will be on ur way

All set, now onto the 400 hood!

Put in for a dozen if you find these new somewhere. They don't make the shower head design.

I seam to remember from my younger days when we had snowmobiles the lever on the needle #32 should be flush with the carb body Brian

Ignition switch gone south...? ? After all, it's only been in svc for 45 years or so.

Being it's fabricated in the UK... a wrap in the Union Jack might be kinda cool.

30 wt oil will become thick as molasses in freezing temps. It will NOT thoroughly lubricate your splash lubricated engine until it warms up. So basically, it's like running your engine without oil for a while when used in freezing temperatures. Try pouring some out of a bottle when it's frozen and you will definitely notice how thick it becomes and then imagine trying to splash it with a stick. That is what's going on inside your engine, unless your engine is equipped with an oil pump. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLeXpF1kzDU