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I like 'em but, they really don't help 'em run much better.

Craig, it may not make it run better, but the warm seat is wonderful.

Don, there is a long and a short answer to your question. The short answer...I do not have a stash of parts and I know of a few guys that have some parts that may be able to help me out. The long answer. Probably, all of the gears, the casting, the side plates and the axle cap seals are NLA from TORO. That doesn't mean that an old Wheel Horse dealership does not have something buried in the back on a shelf. Some of these gears are the same in the 2 piece transmissions...input shaft gear, 1/rev and 2/3 fork gears, splined pinion gear, cluster gear, and the pinion and reduction gears on the cluster gear shaft. The side plates can be made easily from scratch. I know of one member here who has made new axles from scratch (he made me 2). You can still buy all of the ball bearings, the needle bearing and the bronze bearings...and all of the seals (except the axle cap seal), and the roll pins. That leaves the casting, the reverse idler, the spline shaft, the large mushroom gear, the differential housing and the axle gears and differential pinions that are going to be hard to find and common only in the RJ and Suburban transmissions. The bad news...the teeth on the mushroom gear, the teeth on the bull gear, the teeth on the axle gears and the teeth on the pinions are really the weak areas of these transmissions. When the 3 piece transmissions quit working, you can bet it is going to be one or a combination of these things that failed. I happen to have a 2 piece transmission open and cleaned in the garage. I'll take some pictures of the gears together for comparison and some measurements. Maybe that link to Kamen, that Wayne gave us, may have something we can use. If so, that would be excellent. Picture of the gears that are common in the 3 piece and the 2 piece 3 speed transmissions. 3 piece tranny on the left. across the top...input gear and shaft, spine pinion *the shaft on the right is longer in the 2 piece tranny, the differential pinion *these are the same size...the one on the left #3531 has 12 teeth...the one on the right #4235 has 11 teeth. (they may work in both trannys). Next row...cluster gear, 1st/rev fork gear above and 2nd/3rd fork gear below. Bottom row...cluster shaft reduction pinion, cluster shaft reduction gear. Picture of the gears that are different between the 2 types of trannys. 3 piece tranny on the left. Mushroom gear and axle gears.

Greeting WHF, my name is Chris and I'm a long time listener first time caller. I own a '94 416-H with dual stage blower, grader blade, 48" snow blade, tiller, and mowing deck. The Onan has treated me well thus far. The previous owner had a [poor] auto mechanic do some work to the tractor and I've been ironing out some of those bugs since I've gotten the machine. I love it and can't wait to use it for the snow. I just purchased rear chains and 5-rib V61s from Miller Tire. I'm looking forward to getting to know this board better. I have been on many other forums for my other hobbies and I am always blown away by the wealth of knowledge on each board. Best regards, Chris

You guys are getting to where I want to go next. Remember the discussion about the Bendix gear in the high mount starters on the Kohler 10, 12 and 14 hsp engines. I think that Bendix came with either 8 or 11 teeth, and both worked on the same fly wheels?? I have a feeling that either spider gear (#3531 or #4235), as long as you use 4 of the same, will work in either the 3 piece transmission differentials and in the 2 piece 3 speed transmission differentials. I took both kinds of spiders today and they roll around and mesh nicely on either kind of axle gear. My plan is to put a differential together with the spider gears from the opposite differential and see if the axle gears will turn smoothly with the axles in place. This would be huge if it works, since it would open up a whole new area to replace parts. It sure is nice to have some different transmissions open at the same time.

Yesterday was spray day! Yep the panels finally got their nice smooth shiny top coats... As we didn't have the correct thinners and the nearest place to get some is quite a long drive away we used petrol.. I think they came out alright The dyno-start went two tone.. To add a bit of detail and class...... Class on something called Horse Gut?? Nigel dug out his Beugler pin striping tool.. And that chaps is where were up to... Tomorrow we can start carefully bolting it all back together

Hi , im new to this forum. I have two wheel horses that im always fooling around with and joined to get more involved. I have a 520-h and a 310-8 my current project is making up a cat 0 three point hittch for the 520 i was wondering if anyone else has attempted to make one. its almost finished I just have to figure out a way to lift it. i made a linkage out of flat stock that goes to the lift cylender for the attachments I just have to make a shaft for the lift arms abd have to figure out lift links aby ideas?

From the looks of things those of us in the South Central states will get the worst of it. Today I went to Wallyworld a bit after noon, it was overcast but no precipitation, came out about an hour later and it had snowed 3". Our house is half way up a mountain side with a rather steep driveway and here I was with a buggy full of groceries and other stuff. to the rescue! My barn is down near the road so I just drove over there and put the purchases in a cart, hooked it up to the and up the mountain we went. The snow has stopped for now, but the Friday forecast is for freezing rain followed by 8" to 12" of snow. That may not sound like much to folks in the North East but that will mean 3 or 4 days before we will see a snow plow out our way.

Hate to say it but it isn't the ACR, it is only reducing the compression, not eliminating it, though I'm sure you know that by now. So long as the rod didn't knock out the side of the crank case it isn't too bad a job to replace the rod and piston. Chances are that if it wasn't burning oil and ran strong all you will need is the standard rebuild kit.

That is what I was thinking as I pulled it back to the garage!

Now that there needs to be posted in the "Why do you guys have so many Wheel Horses" thread. Hope it's simple too.

Very cool Steve. I was thinking about that but assumed that it wouldn’t work because surely the axle gears had a different number of teeth. I just now counted them and they both have 25 if I counted right. I had to count the 3530 from your picture but I think I got it right. You may be on to something

For the price of a catalytic converter, i would think about adding some additional exhaust piping to route it such that it does not bother you...... I continue to ponder a rear exhaust system for mine.

Could be Jay, but I wouldn't want one on any of my horses.

Said Mrs. K yesterday. Sure, If I can pick up some tractor batteries at TSC. First stop was the 10:30 AM movie @ the Regency Cinema to see The Reverent . Those recliner seats are great. Next stop....lunch @ the Olive Garden ...good Lasagna. Then shopping @ TSC, Gander Mt., and Wallmart ...got my batteries. Then drove 40 Minutes West to watch two Grandsons play in two basketball games. Last stop @ McDonalds for sundaes. Me thinks I'm getting tooo old for these 10 hour dates.

When the "gettin' some" on your date is referring to new batteries? Then, it's no wonder you've become old and cranky.

Ed , these young kids don't know about old age. I don't know about you but "my Dates " are dates on calendar for Doctor's appointments.

C'mon Man When you haven't been asked for a date in 50 years, you don't ask too many questions. Anyway....ol folks gotta go in the morning so they don't fall asleep and waste the 20 bucks.

I know this is not WH related, but if I could please ask the mods to leave this up for at least 24hrs before pulling this, Thank you If I could Please ask everyone to take 5 min of your time to sign up and vote for my son in this contest, he is trying to win a sponsorship from Champion, it will help a lot in the building of his new race car.It only takes a few min. and you will not get a bunch of spam or junk mail, I did it and have not received any, and if you do sign up, please remember to vote once a day everyday till Feb 2, the more votes he gets the better chance of him winning. his Name is Ryan Hollister, just type that in the search box on the site linked in the post and it will bring him up, then click vote, very simple I have a post in the Gen talk section, but I know not everyone goes there, so here is a link to that post Every vote counts Thank you for your time

Rod. Even with the comp release stuck you still would get drag from the piston on the cly. walls.

Sorry to hear the bad news. The interesting story made me want to click the LIKE button, but it seemed inappropriate considering you horses heart just blew up I'll keep hoping for the best that is something simple.

There is a very obvious solution to this problem. Another horse! All kidding aside, very good point, weights might be cheaper initially but if you have to remove - dump or store - the ballast every year that would get old quick.

Steve: I did some Wheel Horse manual checking today reflecting the RJ and suburban differential spider gears. I found the #3531 spider gear was used in RJ, and the 400, 550, 551 and surprisingly the 701 (5007) transmissions. However, the # 3530 axle gear was only used on RJ and 400 and 550 transmissions.

Thanks guys, Okay, I should be able to add a few pictures now... Here's a pic I have handy at the moment. I had just put the chains on for a test fit. They have since been adjusted properly. I am also guilty of the WH bug as I couldn't pass up a 520-H that was available locally. The 520 was from the original owner and has sat for the past few years due to a charging issue. So, now I have to decide to make one really nice tractor between the two and have a spare motor or the more likely scenario of bringing the 520 back to life. I like the stance of the 520 a bit better, and all of the wiring seems original which is pleasing because I've been ironing out the wiring issues with the 416 since I purchased it. Decisions decisions... Chris Thanks 953, I also have family in Shirley. I live about 30 minutes east out on the North Fork. It's a great community with farming roots. There seems to be a big Cub following here, but there was a local WH dealer years back so every now and then one pops up.

Like buying gifts for my wife. I just go to Lowes and buy her tools!

Brian, You are very helpful. My 520H does have the swept forward axle. My old C 160 8-speed was manual lift and the blade originally had a chain link to the lift bar. I wanted more DOWN for cutting dirt so I got the solid link for the lift. Manually, I lifted the front wheels of the tractor when pushing dirt. Turned out that wasn't such a good idea because the bolts came loose in the Unidrive bull gear. One bolt broke off and the piece caught in the bull gear teeth, breaking a piece out of the Unidrive housing casting. ....then...I traded for the C 175A. Used the blade on it with the solid lift link. but the hydrostat transmission has held up well. Sadly the KT-17 engine on the C 175A has no positive lube system, so rings burnt out. Had the engine rebuilt but before I re-installed it, I came across the 520H. Since I already have a full set of attachments, I got the 520H. Just hoping to get the snow blade working on it soon B4 too much snow. Now....you know.....the rest of the story. I'm a newbie here, but bought the C 160 8-speed in 1975. Like much the Wheel Horse system and attachments, etc. Too Bad that Toro had to screw it up. Checking your photo, it looks like the blade angling lever has an offset that mine does not have. Since the frame extension will push the blade ~6" forward, it makes sense that the lever will need an offset to the rear so I can reach it from the seat. Is that true? So....after boring you with my "Horsing" pains, Would you be willing to part with that extension kit? or maybe direct me to where I can find one? Thanx BuKu, Vic

We can hope so, and many more to you Russ..

I would post my forecaster but you would not like it. He is sixty ish , skinny and is almost bald , but he has a great comb over

I work in the ag repair business, and in our work, a dragging starter is one with worn bushings where the rotating armature is contacting the outer windings. A good starter repair shop could often fix it, or it could just be replaced. As stated, those Tecumseh starters are not that expensive. The bigger problem with those engines is the Solid State ignition units. They are known to die and are expensive to replace. Make sure it has spark before buying it. My HH160 lost spark and I was able to fix the module, but most of the time you're looking for a replacement.

Yes, but if you can remove the rust and paint in one easy step, why not?

Here's my weather forecaster. Cheap and always accurate...

Like I always say guys. ..wanna know what the weather is stick your head out the door! Ain't nothin we can do about it anyway cept keep our horses ready!

heres a pic of my set up,works really good and I run it with a normal cheap charger,it seems to remove all the paint when ive used it,but if the parts are going in the tank then they are rusty also,but ive never uysed it in the winter,it would freeze solid in no time,but e tanks work great

Wayne...thanks. That is just the kind of thinking I would like to see in this thread. How can I say this?? I think we are getting to a point where we need to figure out how to fix what we have left...that wagon load of transmissions is getting hard to find, and you know... you never know what waits inside. Would you still weld it and then have it turned?? Let me say this...I took a casting for some welding a few years ago...DClark now has that tranny...and as far as I know...it is still OK. This guy was at a radiator shop and told me that this older cast iron is excellent stuff and, unlike the newer cast, is not hard to weld and it holds. All of the casting things that are broke here is why I titled the thread like I did. Hardest part might be finding the right welder. The thing is, if these castings can be fixed...the price of RJ's and Suburbans will come down. This is not just about welding. Can we fix teeth on gears?? Can we repair pitting on gears?? Can we do it cost effective?? I would think most if not all members on Red Square are not really looking to fix an RJ 58/59 or Suburban to go out in the field all day, but pulling a cart or wagon for hayrides...driving around at shows...and maybe even mowing a lawn like mine (you could cut it with a pair of scissors)...getting around the "Cap Seal" for the axles. This is what this thread is about. I just kind of refuse to accept getting 3 transmissions like this, and it is going to be tough to get 1 transmission back out of those 3. I already know I can make 2...I am looking to make 3.

All these years I thought she was talking about ice cream. Sometimes I need a picture drawn for me.

What! No pics of the most important part of the day! BATTERIES!

A 10 hour date I would have ended up in the hospital. A date is" do you want fries with that order ,I am on my way home now".

I think you should just try the washing soda first and see how it works for you. This is in a 2 gallon pail. Parts are hanging by the "C" clamps. The anode is a piece of black pipe. As you can see, things are bubbling very nicely...parts cleaned in a day. Using 10 volt charger.

Here's hoping... any snow is a no show.

I first became fond of Wheel horses in 1995 when I took a pocket money job at a small country estate, there there was a C141 that the boss had purchased in 1978, the year of my birth. This in fact was the first vehicle I had driven and I soon learned to reverse a trailer with it too. I'm now in charge of estate maintenance at that estate and I still run the C141 pretty much every day, whatever is required of it it manages, from raking driveways to scarifying to aerating lawns to hauling mowers around the grounds on a trailer to hauling many tonnes of wood from the woodland to the yard. She is very well worked and the engine shows wear in the bore and notably where the governor spindle exits the crankcase, you can wobble this about like a knitting needle in a bucket! Over the years it has been suggested several times that she be replaced but I won't have it and if she ever has failed myself or my Dad (sadly no longer with us) will spend a little time in the shed rectifying the problem and off she goes to work again. A few years back after realising our modern Kubota didn't like cutting the long grass areas I used two scrap tractors I sourced to build one good one and this is now used solely for long grass cutting and sports a sixteen horse engine. Here are my two flanked by the ever trusty C141 and the 16BHP mongrel. The wood you see behind them plus many hundreds more tonnes have all been hauled here from the woodland by the little C141 I've had the plough some time now, it's just placed behind for the photo but brackets have been in the nearly finished state of fabrication now for around two years! The weight is a lovely thing and quite rare I believe, but, unless you have an implement on the back it's awful on the steering, I much prefer the wheel weights on the Raider.

well once its done i plan to solder up a steel tank to take up any extra room back there I know i will sacrifice a little less storage I thought about using the mount for the lower arms off a GT 14, but I wanted a reciever hitch just below the trans

13

For the most part, yes. There's lots of talk about that but I've done it for years. Sometimes the original paint puts up a fight but it makes it easier to scrape, sand, wire wheel, etc. off.

His name was Bubba, he was from Texas ... And he needed a loan, So... He walked into a bank in New York City and asked for the loan Officer. He told the loan officer that he was going to Paris for an International Redneck Festival for two weeks and needed to borrow $5,000, and that he was not a depositor of the bank. The bank officer told him that the bank would need some form of security for the loan, so the Redneck handed over the keys to a new Ferrari. The car was parked on the street in front of the bank. The Redneck produced the title and everything checked out. The loan officer agreed to hold the car as collateral for the loan and apologized for having to charge 12% interest. Later, the bank's president and its officers all enjoyed a good laugh at the Redneck from the Texas for using a $250,000 Ferrari as collateral for a $5,000 loan. An employee of the bank then drove the Ferrari into the bank's private underground garage and parked it. Two weeks later, the Redneck returned, repaid the $5,000 and the interest of 23.07. The loan officer said, "Sir, we are very happy to have had your business, and this transaction has worked out very nicely, but we are a little puzzled. While you were away, we checked you out on Dunn & Bradstreet and found that you are a distinguished alumni from Texas A & M, a highly sophisticated investor and multi-millionaire with real estate and financial interests all over the world. Your investments include a large number of wind turbines around Sweetwater, Texas. What puzzles us is, why would you bother to borrow $5,000?" The good 'ole boy replied, "Where else in New York City can I park my car for two weeks for only $23.07 and expect it to be there when I return?"

If you are looking for a LOT of weight, then filled tires are the way to go. I have not had rust issues. I got mine filled at a rimguard dealer, so I didn't have to buy a fill valve, and cost per pound is way less than steel weights. I haven't had any leaks (on ags), and I didn't notice any difference in tire firmness. On the bad side, they are harder to get on and off, and you can't just unbolt the weights when you are ready to spend the summer on the lawn.

I hear and appreciate your point. counterpoint (from a guy who values time more than money) $27 / 200CCA = 13 cents per CCA - it will die at an inconvenient time $50 / 420CCA = 12 cents per CCA -it will also die the same inconvenient death - just at a later date. So if we factor out the cost and both will die the same type of death, we are left with "inconvenience factor". This is fully within the operator's (your) control. Load test the battery before winter. Keep the tractor in good running condition so you don't have to crank the engine for several minutes until the battery depletes. Winter is here. Just watch as the electrical section fills up with with slow crank, no start, clickety clickety solenoid, ignition connector wiring and dirty points issues. I view batteries like I view snow tires. I'm not looking to squeeze the last drop of life out of either one. I monitor their condition and performance and proactively replace them before they put the operator in an inconvenient or dangerous situation. and if you don't see the charge rate decreasing over the hours, the battery is not absorbing the charge current and chemically converting it to stored charge. the battery is probably getting very warm as the charger current is being dissipated as heat. heated electrolyte evaporates, killing the battery even further. never leave an "old school" type charger connected to a battery for more than 10 -12 hours.

An inexpensive multi-meter may will have difficulty giving a precise reading in the under 1 ohm range. The meter leads themselves can sometimes contribute a significant error into the final reading. To best read true stator winding DC resistance, first eliminate the effect of multi-meter lead resistance from the measurement. The resistance of the meter leads plus the connectors which plug into the meter jacks can add significant error into the measurement of the stator winding resistance. To view the meter lead contribution, first connect meter leads together, preferably using strong alligator clips instead of test probes. Allow the meter to settle to a final reading. Let's say you read 00.20 ohms. Note this reading for future use. Next, check the stator for gross electrical defects by measuring resistance from each stator lead to the metal stator core. This will check for defective windings in the stator which may in contact (shorted) to the stator core. Both stator wires should show infinite high resistance in this test. Finally, measure resistance between both stator wires - 00.69 ohms as seen below. Subtract the first reading noted from the multi meter leads shorted together (00.20) from the wire to wire ohms reading (00.69). The result is the best approximation of stator resistance you will be able to obtain with an inexpensive multi-meter.

Okay, I'm going to be the old wet blanket. Here is the drawback as I see it. A similar idea was floated a couple years ago to have repair seminars and fix it/build it challenges. Though it sounded good, it never got traction. Mainly because there are only so many hours that you can spend at the show. I personally like to participate in or watch the parades, walk around taking pictures, looking, buying, selling, and talking with friends without having to be engaged in a time consuming project. I do not want to spend my time building a tractor. I do that 6 months out of the year before the show so that I can relax at the show. Just my 2 cents worth.