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Saw this on craiglist today. I copied the pics , i can not say i have ever seen this done. Mounting the loader backwards then fabbing a grapple with snow blades. Heres some of the pics.

Give this a try, I can do it with ease, explanation below. In elementary school I had a great deal of difficulty with reading and spelling, it was determined that I had dyslexia and alternative teaching methods proved successful. As a radarman in the US Navy I was able to use this shortcoming as an advantage. While on watch we were required to write backwards on a clear plexiglass status board so the officers could read updates on our position and any nearby contacts (other ships). Several others had difficulty writing backward, not me, been doing it all my life!

I'm no mechanic, but they look fine to me. Are they ripping me off?

That is quite the logging rig, I don't think I would want to spend too much time in the Hot Seat over the engine; gives a whole new meaning to nut roaster.

Believe it or not I have seen stuff like that more than once. Sometime from the same customer. Take it to Monro, They will replace the entire braking system except for that rotor!

Here is part of my crew from last year. I bought my glass windshield (painted the outside red) from a JD dealer online for less than the amount quoted. In my opinion it stiffens the cab up as well as being nice. The only thing is the vinyl window can be shaken to clear but you need the wiper on the glass windshield. Later in the season last year I found a source for the motorized windshield wiper for less than $100.00 and it will be replacing the manual one this year. I've got a few more goodies to add for this year's version. The Ariens cab came from the same JD dealer for way less than MSRP as well. I got tired of looking like a snowman!

hi men, going thru a wh tractor for a friend. i noticed that the drawbar pin had no snap rings or e-clips holding it in. UH-OH! boy was that pin stuck. penetrating oil and my oxy-acetylene torch would not help free it. in desperation i cut it as close as possible to the unidrive tranny case. using a thin cutoff wheel on an angle grinder i sanded it flush with the case. then i used my ball joint C-press kit with a 5/8 bolt that i cut the head off. it managed to push it out. what a relief! good tools are priceless. i mention this in hopes it helps one of you unstick one of those buggers. used lots of anti-sieze on the new one going back in. best regards to all mike in mass.

Throughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!

Nice RJ you have there. This is mine that I bought from Jdogcustoms about four years ago. As far as I know, fenders and tool boxes were optional equipment on the RJ-58's. Yours looks great just at it is sans fenders

Had no problem reading either one of those. probably because as many of you have noticed I cant spell to begin with.................

That's pretty cool Richard. OK, how many of you just tried to write backwards? I've seen those plexiglass boards and never even gave it a thought about writing backwards. I could print but my cursive wasn't very good. Here's another one to try. I'd argue about the great mind thing though. That there ain't not me. Now that I think of it my typing looks like this. Maybe I don't have to keep correcting my typos.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

For $400 I would buy it even if it didn't run...

Here is my recently refurbished 42" blower on my 312-8 with custom chute. Just finished my custom weight rack. Hoping I wont need chains but we will see.

Yeah that looks good keeps the brake pads vented and cooled Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Alright! Alright! I admit, I'm a fan of 'em.

Found a nice loader project on eBay and wound up high bidder, somehow, last week. It was a bit of a drive for me, but even with gas and tolls (12 hours round trip!!!) I'm into this for under $400. This particular kwikway loader originally came from an early 80's FF series Sears garden tractor. That was the big Sears tractor that went up against the Deere 420. The kwikways were all built the same, they just took a machine specific subframe. This one had the loader, the valve and the rams, no subframe or pump. Diagonal braces came with it and the valve and the hydraulic rams are all in good shape for their age. Thanks to doc724 and some others, I've got all the dimensions I need to build a subframe. A friend of mine is going to take my CAD drawing to a laser cutter vendor to cut out all the subframe components out of 1/4" plate. I'll weld up the front diagonal mounts, the pump bracket and the mid mount frame. Made some cardstock mock ups of the front mounts, and fine tuned them to fit . I've also picked up a control valve service manual and an oring kit to refurb the valve. The valve is all torn down now and all parts are in good shape. As soon as fall leaf cleanup is done, I'll be able to get some front mount patterns and measurements for the pump carrier and then I should be set to get an order in to the laser cutter. This will be a fun project. Hopefully it will be ready for mulch spreading duty come spring.

I would like to share this idea to help take some of the weight which the snowblower/thrower adds to the front, and add it to the rear. While also making the blower easier to lift. I know some of you use the spring to help with lifting, but most of its tension is when the blower is in the down position. I ran the cable directly through the cable tube and not using the rock shaft. Ran it it through a pulley (NOS idler I had) which is connected to the "attach-o-matic" and back to the bottom hole in the lift arm. While the flag is in the upper hole of the lift arm, the weight that is in the rear, is connected to he bottom hole giving the added weight a little better mechanical advantage. So the weight in the back is actually helping to lift the weight in the front.

I told the Dino's they could swim..

Storage space is not an issue. Convincing the wife I need a dozen Wheel Horse tractors is where I may run into a problem!

All of us Jim...all of us ...we have an eye for them! Damn dog!!!

I could read it all as well .... many times I wished we had a spell checker here what worse i am all thumbs on a keyboard, had more interest in girls than typing class in high school.....

Seriously, more like at least another $1K for the 5xi market. Be careful when adjusting the motion control and and make sure it is solid on the wheel stands. That is a lot of weight to come down.

Thatsit I neffer crect mi spelin agin.

I can read it with no problem at all. Not sure I could write backwards though.

So wait. I'm confused. Glenn, are you saying this is a good tractor and he should buy it?

Rotors are slick as glass, almost transparent even.

You need to patronize the Jiffy Lube my wife was going to. When our Mountaineer had about 35K on it they told her it would need brakes soon, pads were down to 20 percent; with 41K they said it had 45 percent left. At that rate we would have new brakes on it by the time we got to 60K. I told her from then on I would take it to a private family owned garage with trustworthy employees. Had the car inspected the other day at 75K and have about 30 percent left.

another good tip that i just used on two of mine that were stuck is a pipe wrench. soak it first of course ,grab a 2 footer, the jaws seem to fit just right and get a nice tight grab on it. best of all didnt waste the pin.

Flasher!!

They probably kept re-setting the wear indicator.

If they come in flavors it might catch on with wives for their husbands...or vice versa...

Mowing lawns is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you're gonna hit...

http://struckcorp.com/contact-us/location-how-to-order

@953 nut that is a good site for rubber (baby buggy) bumpers! Lots of options.

Retail from Original Tractor Cab cab 885 glass window 180 electric wiper 199 work lights 79 safety light 99 mirror 44 loaded cab 1471 + shipping

OK. Here's what we learned today. When l started in on the tractor, I started working from the front. Points gap was fine. Pulled off the air filter cover to find it was soaked with fuel, along with the filter. Pulled the carb, drained it, pulled the bowl. While it was upside down to check the float adjustment, I noticed that float was laying on the carb body and needle valve was doing nothing, come to find out the new needle valve is 1/32 shorter then my old one (I keep everything). I took my stock clip off of the new needle valve and used the one provided in the kit. Had to make a minor float adjusment because of the different needle valve clip. Put back together, and runs like a champ. Turns over once and fires right up. I chaulk this up to being in a hurry, thinking the all new parts were apples to apples. So no safety interlocks issues. Coil is good, also it has a internal resister with a resistive value of 3.2 to 3.5. Keeping just below the 9.6v that I was concerned about. I didn't want to burn my points up. Stevasaurus, you were spot on. Thank you all though for your responses and guidance. Ty

Works great, have done it, and they chuck apples real well

Here is what is will look like. I love mine!!

Hi All, after tinkering around with my '64 704 for what seems like forever, I finally got it to the point that it is rideable and near completion. The original pull start motor had a sticking exhaust valve, so I replaced it with a later model k181 with the starter attached to it, converting it to electric start. Of course it had to be wired to make everything work, and I ended up using a motorcycle battery, since a standard garden tractor battery won't fit (starter encroaches into the battery box area). After searching this site, and discussing my options with other members, I decided to attach the regulator/rectifier via metal straps to right side of the frame above where the belt guard is (there are a couple of pre-drilled holes from the factory already there, so I bolted the straps there). I took it out yesterday for a shakedown run around my yard for about 25 mins with the only issue being the throttle will not lock in place. While working on it over this past year, It seemed like once I thought it was ready to go, something else would throw me a curve ball, (couldn't get it to rev past 1/2 throttle, governor not working, dead battery etc.) but it's all sorted now and running like a champ. It fires right up (after I figured out that full choke and about 1/4 throttle does the trick) and is reading a little over 14 volts when running, and the battery shows over 13 volts when I shut it off, so the charging system is functioning as designed. I can't tell you how elated I am that this 51 year old garden tractor is finally alive. This 704 is in it's original somewhat crusty patina, and I haven't decided if I should repaint it or not. I'm open to suggestions. Attached is a picture of it when I first got it in March or 2013, in the picture it has the original K161 motor with an aftermarket bolt on electric starter. Thanks to all that have provided suggestions in the past.

Just another thought. Does that tractor have a "Dial Height" adjustment knob? That is used for adjusting the mower deck height but if set to high, it will stop the lift handle from traveling it's full amount and not allow the blower to swivel down far enough. The blower needs to swivel down to follow the terrain.

I've seen many of these tests on facebook and have always been able to read them easily. The mind really does see the word as a whole as long as the first and last letter are correct. Even upside down.

Use this to get the motion control dialed in, and congrats on the buy!!!!

Digger, that was a cool, no pun intended, video. I grew up in the Syracuse area and in the winter of '71 I returned from a two week Florida vacation and found that the snow had drifted over the barn completely burying my pick up parked next to it, wish I had pictures to share.

Yes, that is even harder to find than the one pictured above. Just curious if any of the members have the one that mounts underneath? Yep... I have that one too.

Ok, how many of you realized that that was a Wheel Horse tractor in the photo?

My hat's off to you guys for working with that much snowfall!

I have (and love) a 1977 C-160 Auto with 10.5 wide shoes, 2-link chains, 75lb weights (2), and my 200lb bone bag, but still spin a lot on ice. Just one wheel spins and I know that is due to the 8-pinion differential. I have a complete 10-pinion LSD from a Raider 12 in mint condition and I want to swap that...in its entirety, into the C-160 gearbox. I know that will go a long way in reducing the ice-spin, but will it make an exact fit replacement of the original 8-pinion differential ? ? ? Here are pics of the 10- and 8-pinion differentials.... axles are both 1 1/8" dia. direct replies to: daveoman@windstream.net

SUBURBANS & RJ 58/59 TRANSMISSION CROSS OVER CHART FOR WH #5003 and #5010 TRANSMISSIONS DESCRIPTION..............................................................WH #......................VENDOR..........QUANTITY...........SIZE BRONZE BEARING (AXLE)..........................................1503.......................CB-1618-12..........2..................1" X 1 1/8" X 1 1/2" BRONZE BEARING (DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING)..........1517.......................CB-2224-14..........2..................1 3/8" X 1 1/2" X 1 7/16" INPUT SHAFT & OUT END OF BRAKE SHAFT.............1519........................S8K ground..........4..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 5/16" CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT & 11/44 GEAR BASE............1502........................NICE 412-35........3..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 3/8" INPUT GEAR NEEDLE BEARING.................................1518........................B-108...................1..................5/8" X 15/16" X 1/2" BRONZE BEARINGS (CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT............1504.......................EP-1214-12..........2..................3/4" X 7/8" X 3/4" BRAKE SHAFT (NEEDLE) IF YOU HAVE THIS............1508.......................B-1212.................1..................3/4" X 1" X 3/4" SEALS AXLE (FROM TORO ONLY)..(CAP)...................1257.......................83-2840...............2 SEALS INPUT SHAFT & BRAKE SHAFT (BALL BRNG)..1234......................741643 timken......2 SEAL BRAKE SHAFT (IF NEEDLE BRNG).....................1303......................7410 skf................1 Gasket material: Karropak 1/32 thick comes in a roll 12" x 36" tan in color...$ 6.00 at Auto Zone You can get all this from Motion Industries. I would say, yes, you are going into it. Did you try the block thing I mentioned above?? I am curious to see if it made a difference. If you need to just change out the bronze bearings, they are cheap. Keep us informed, I will be here to help in any way I can. :)