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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/04/2015 in Posts
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5 pointsSaw this on craiglist today. I copied the pics , i can not say i have ever seen this done. Mounting the loader backwards then fabbing a grapple with snow blades. Heres some of the pics.
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4 pointsGive this a try, I can do it with ease, explanation below. In elementary school I had a great deal of difficulty with reading and spelling, it was determined that I had dyslexia and alternative teaching methods proved successful. As a radarman in the US Navy I was able to use this shortcoming as an advantage. While on watch we were required to write backwards on a clear plexiglass status board so the officers could read updates on our position and any nearby contacts (other ships). Several others had difficulty writing backward, not me, been doing it all my life!
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4 points
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4 pointsThat is quite the logging rig, I don't think I would want to spend too much time in the Hot Seat over the engine; gives a whole new meaning to nut roaster.
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4 pointsBelieve it or not I have seen stuff like that more than once. Sometime from the same customer. Take it to Monro, They will replace the entire braking system except for that rotor!
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4 pointsHere is part of my crew from last year. I bought my glass windshield (painted the outside red) from a JD dealer online for less than the amount quoted. In my opinion it stiffens the cab up as well as being nice. The only thing is the vinyl window can be shaken to clear but you need the wiper on the glass windshield. Later in the season last year I found a source for the motorized windshield wiper for less than $100.00 and it will be replacing the manual one this year. I've got a few more goodies to add for this year's version. The Ariens cab came from the same JD dealer for way less than MSRP as well. I got tired of looking like a snowman!
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3 pointshi men, going thru a wh tractor for a friend. i noticed that the drawbar pin had no snap rings or e-clips holding it in. UH-OH! boy was that pin stuck. penetrating oil and my oxy-acetylene torch would not help free it. in desperation i cut it as close as possible to the unidrive tranny case. using a thin cutoff wheel on an angle grinder i sanded it flush with the case. then i used my ball joint C-press kit with a 5/8 bolt that i cut the head off. it managed to push it out. what a relief! good tools are priceless. i mention this in hopes it helps one of you unstick one of those buggers. used lots of anti-sieze on the new one going back in. best regards to all mike in mass.
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3 pointsThroughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!
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3 pointsNice RJ you have there. This is mine that I bought from Jdogcustoms about four years ago. As far as I know, fenders and tool boxes were optional equipment on the RJ-58's. Yours looks great just at it is sans fenders
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3 pointsHad no problem reading either one of those. probably because as many of you have noticed I cant spell to begin with.................
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3 pointsThat's pretty cool Richard. OK, how many of you just tried to write backwards? I've seen those plexiglass boards and never even gave it a thought about writing backwards. I could print but my cursive wasn't very good. Here's another one to try. I'd argue about the great mind thing though. That there ain't not me. Now that I think of it my typing looks like this. Maybe I don't have to keep correcting my typos.
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsHere is my recently refurbished 42" blower on my 312-8 with custom chute. Just finished my custom weight rack. Hoping I wont need chains but we will see.
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3 pointsYeah that looks good keeps the brake pads vented and cooled Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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3 points
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3 points
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2 pointsFound a nice loader project on eBay and wound up high bidder, somehow, last week. It was a bit of a drive for me, but even with gas and tolls (12 hours round trip!!!) I'm into this for under $400. This particular kwikway loader originally came from an early 80's FF series Sears garden tractor. That was the big Sears tractor that went up against the Deere 420. The kwikways were all built the same, they just took a machine specific subframe. This one had the loader, the valve and the rams, no subframe or pump. Diagonal braces came with it and the valve and the hydraulic rams are all in good shape for their age. Thanks to doc724 and some others, I've got all the dimensions I need to build a subframe. A friend of mine is going to take my CAD drawing to a laser cutter vendor to cut out all the subframe components out of 1/4" plate. I'll weld up the front diagonal mounts, the pump bracket and the mid mount frame. Made some cardstock mock ups of the front mounts, and fine tuned them to fit . I've also picked up a control valve service manual and an oring kit to refurb the valve. The valve is all torn down now and all parts are in good shape. As soon as fall leaf cleanup is done, I'll be able to get some front mount patterns and measurements for the pump carrier and then I should be set to get an order in to the laser cutter. This will be a fun project. Hopefully it will be ready for mulch spreading duty come spring.
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2 pointsI would like to share this idea to help take some of the weight which the snowblower/thrower adds to the front, and add it to the rear. While also making the blower easier to lift. I know some of you use the spring to help with lifting, but most of its tension is when the blower is in the down position. I ran the cable directly through the cable tube and not using the rock shaft. Ran it it through a pulley (NOS idler I had) which is connected to the "attach-o-matic" and back to the bottom hole in the lift arm. While the flag is in the upper hole of the lift arm, the weight that is in the rear, is connected to he bottom hole giving the added weight a little better mechanical advantage. So the weight in the back is actually helping to lift the weight in the front.
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2 points
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2 pointsStorage space is not an issue. Convincing the wife I need a dozen Wheel Horse tractors is where I may run into a problem!
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2 points
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2 pointsI could read it all as well .... many times I wished we had a spell checker here what worse i am all thumbs on a keyboard, had more interest in girls than typing class in high school.....
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2 pointsSeriously, more like at least another $1K for the 5xi market. Be careful when adjusting the motion control and and make sure it is solid on the wheel stands. That is a lot of weight to come down.
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2 points
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2 pointsYou need to patronize the Jiffy Lube my wife was going to. When our Mountaineer had about 35K on it they told her it would need brakes soon, pads were down to 20 percent; with 41K they said it had 45 percent left. At that rate we would have new brakes on it by the time we got to 60K. I told her from then on I would take it to a private family owned garage with trustworthy employees. Had the car inspected the other day at 75K and have about 30 percent left.
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2 pointsanother good tip that i just used on two of mine that were stuck is a pipe wrench. soak it first of course ,grab a 2 footer, the jaws seem to fit just right and get a nice tight grab on it. best of all didnt waste the pin.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsIf they come in flavors it might catch on with wives for their husbands...or vice versa...
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2 pointsMowing lawns is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you're gonna hit...
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2 pointshttp://struckcorp.com/contact-us/location-how-to-order
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2 points
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2 pointsRetail from Original Tractor Cab cab 885 glass window 180 electric wiper 199 work lights 79 safety light 99 mirror 44 loaded cab 1471 + shipping
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2 pointsOK. Here's what we learned today. When l started in on the tractor, I started working from the front. Points gap was fine. Pulled off the air filter cover to find it was soaked with fuel, along with the filter. Pulled the carb, drained it, pulled the bowl. While it was upside down to check the float adjustment, I noticed that float was laying on the carb body and needle valve was doing nothing, come to find out the new needle valve is 1/32 shorter then my old one (I keep everything). I took my stock clip off of the new needle valve and used the one provided in the kit. Had to make a minor float adjusment because of the different needle valve clip. Put back together, and runs like a champ. Turns over once and fires right up. I chaulk this up to being in a hurry, thinking the all new parts were apples to apples. So no safety interlocks issues. Coil is good, also it has a internal resister with a resistive value of 3.2 to 3.5. Keeping just below the 9.6v that I was concerned about. I didn't want to burn my points up. Stevasaurus, you were spot on. Thank you all though for your responses and guidance. Ty
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2 points
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2 points
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1 pointI thought i would share my little lawn ranger winter project with you guys i bought this little guy over the summer and haven't did much with it besides give it a good cleaning it ran when i got it but smoked a little and was had to start and the more i used it the worse it got i think it is a combination of things so the plan is to focus on the engine wont really know how bad it is till i tear into it i will keep you posted.
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1 pointI'm with Ed on this one as well. The Briggs Vanguard replacement engine you had on the 520 is still just under 1600 dollars new. You can't find them used and used Onan's are expensive too plus you have no idea what your getting. If the Eaton transmission is also losing power once it's warmed up, your best bet is to forgo that tractor. If you use ground contact attachments like garden plows, the hydro transmissions are not recommended. I would look for a 12 to 18 horsepower Wheelhorse with the 8 speed manual transmission. (hi/lo Range). As Ed mentioned, the 300 and 400 series tractors use the same attachments as your 520 with just a few exceptions. You could easily use a single cylinder Kohler 12 or 14 horse tractor to do everything you did with your 520 and save yourself a lot of money plus you will have less headaches with a simpler Kohler single. Look for the newer 312 8 Speed and 314 8 speed and the older C Series tractors with the Kohler 12 or 14HP engine. Just make sure what you get has a horizontal shaft engine with the "classic" PTO on the side like your 520 has. If you still want to stay with an automatic, do NOT look at a 312-A, a 516 H or a 518 H. These have the Eaton 700 hydro rears and are not at all for use with ground engagement attachments. Again, most of us will recommend the manuals verses the hydros for garden plowing and tilling, etc. You can sell your old 520H for parts here in our classified section and list it on your local CraigsList. Just keep the attachments that you used with the 520 for use with another WH tractor! You should let us know where you live under location and also list it in the add you place for the parts tractor. The classified add has to show a price so you can tell us what you want for it and then state "or best offer". You would be surprised how close you might live to a Redsquare member. We make house calls too and other than some donuts and coffee, it's free! Oh and Welcome to the Forum! We're glad you found us!
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1 pointI've seen many of these tests on facebook and have always been able to read them easily. The mind really does see the word as a whole as long as the first and last letter are correct. Even upside down.
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1 point$ 400, you stole it! A 12 hour round trip is well worth it for a nice loader. The loader will come in handy this winter moving snow around. Now you need to look around for another to mow with, once you have the loader mounted you won't want to be without it.
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1 point
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1 pointHere is your service manual http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/5212-snowthrower-walking-toro-power-shift-sm-snpdf/ Garry
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1 pointYes, that is even harder to find than the one pictured above. Just curious if any of the members have the one that mounts underneath? Yep... I have that one too.
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1 pointOk, how many of you realized that that was a Wheel Horse tractor in the photo?
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1 point... the early Fall weather, that is... nearly perfect weather for late September. I could take this all year long. We have not too much rain here in south, central PA recently, but the lawn is still green and growing like crazy. So, after mowing the lawn yesterday, I let my three work horses out to graze. My1995 model 314-8, 1967 model 857, and 1990 520-H are so happy, they went into doing a little rodeo dance as the sun was setting.
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1 pointSUBURBANS & RJ 58/59 TRANSMISSION CROSS OVER CHART FOR WH #5003 and #5010 TRANSMISSIONS DESCRIPTION..............................................................WH #......................VENDOR..........QUANTITY...........SIZE BRONZE BEARING (AXLE)..........................................1503.......................CB-1618-12..........2..................1" X 1 1/8" X 1 1/2" BRONZE BEARING (DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING)..........1517.......................CB-2224-14..........2..................1 3/8" X 1 1/2" X 1 7/16" INPUT SHAFT & OUT END OF BRAKE SHAFT.............1519........................S8K ground..........4..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 5/16" CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT & 11/44 GEAR BASE............1502........................NICE 412-35........3..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 3/8" INPUT GEAR NEEDLE BEARING.................................1518........................B-108...................1..................5/8" X 15/16" X 1/2" BRONZE BEARINGS (CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT............1504.......................EP-1214-12..........2..................3/4" X 7/8" X 3/4" BRAKE SHAFT (NEEDLE) IF YOU HAVE THIS............1508.......................B-1212.................1..................3/4" X 1" X 3/4" SEALS AXLE (FROM TORO ONLY)..(CAP)...................1257.......................83-2840...............2 SEALS INPUT SHAFT & BRAKE SHAFT (BALL BRNG)..1234......................741643 timken......2 SEAL BRAKE SHAFT (IF NEEDLE BRNG).....................1303......................7410 skf................1 Gasket material: Karropak 1/32 thick comes in a roll 12" x 36" tan in color...$ 6.00 at Auto Zone You can get all this from Motion Industries. I would say, yes, you are going into it. Did you try the block thing I mentioned above?? I am curious to see if it made a difference. If you need to just change out the bronze bearings, they are cheap. Keep us informed, I will be here to help in any way I can. :)
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