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Saw this on craiglist today. I copied the pics , i can not say i have ever seen this done. Mounting the loader backwards then fabbing a grapple with snow blades. Heres some of the pics.

Give this a try, I can do it with ease, explanation below. In elementary school I had a great deal of difficulty with reading and spelling, it was determined that I had dyslexia and alternative teaching methods proved successful. As a radarman in the US Navy I was able to use this shortcoming as an advantage. While on watch we were required to write backwards on a clear plexiglass status board so the officers could read updates on our position and any nearby contacts (other ships). Several others had difficulty writing backward, not me, been doing it all my life!

I'm no mechanic, but they look fine to me. Are they ripping me off?

That is quite the logging rig, I don't think I would want to spend too much time in the Hot Seat over the engine; gives a whole new meaning to nut roaster.

Believe it or not I have seen stuff like that more than once. Sometime from the same customer. Take it to Monro, They will replace the entire braking system except for that rotor!

Here is part of my crew from last year. I bought my glass windshield (painted the outside red) from a JD dealer online for less than the amount quoted. In my opinion it stiffens the cab up as well as being nice. The only thing is the vinyl window can be shaken to clear but you need the wiper on the glass windshield. Later in the season last year I found a source for the motorized windshield wiper for less than $100.00 and it will be replacing the manual one this year. I've got a few more goodies to add for this year's version. The Ariens cab came from the same JD dealer for way less than MSRP as well. I got tired of looking like a snowman!

hi men, going thru a wh tractor for a friend. i noticed that the drawbar pin had no snap rings or e-clips holding it in. UH-OH! boy was that pin stuck. penetrating oil and my oxy-acetylene torch would not help free it. in desperation i cut it as close as possible to the unidrive tranny case. using a thin cutoff wheel on an angle grinder i sanded it flush with the case. then i used my ball joint C-press kit with a 5/8 bolt that i cut the head off. it managed to push it out. what a relief! good tools are priceless. i mention this in hopes it helps one of you unstick one of those buggers. used lots of anti-sieze on the new one going back in. best regards to all mike in mass.

Throughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!

Nice RJ you have there. This is mine that I bought from Jdogcustoms about four years ago. As far as I know, fenders and tool boxes were optional equipment on the RJ-58's. Yours looks great just at it is sans fenders

Had no problem reading either one of those. probably because as many of you have noticed I cant spell to begin with.................

That's pretty cool Richard. OK, how many of you just tried to write backwards? I've seen those plexiglass boards and never even gave it a thought about writing backwards. I could print but my cursive wasn't very good. Here's another one to try. I'd argue about the great mind thing though. That there ain't not me. Now that I think of it my typing looks like this. Maybe I don't have to keep correcting my typos.

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For $400 I would buy it even if it didn't run...

Here is my recently refurbished 42" blower on my 312-8 with custom chute. Just finished my custom weight rack. Hoping I wont need chains but we will see.

Yeah that looks good keeps the brake pads vented and cooled Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Alright! Alright! I admit, I'm a fan of 'em.

Found a nice loader project on eBay and wound up high bidder, somehow, last week. It was a bit of a drive for me, but even with gas and tolls (12 hours round trip!!!) I'm into this for under $400. This particular kwikway loader originally came from an early 80's FF series Sears garden tractor. That was the big Sears tractor that went up against the Deere 420. The kwikways were all built the same, they just took a machine specific subframe. This one had the loader, the valve and the rams, no subframe or pump. Diagonal braces came with it and the valve and the hydraulic rams are all in good shape for their age. Thanks to doc724 and some others, I've got all the dimensions I need to build a subframe. A friend of mine is going to take my CAD drawing to a laser cutter vendor to cut out all the subframe components out of 1/4" plate. I'll weld up the front diagonal mounts, the pump bracket and the mid mount frame. Made some cardstock mock ups of the front mounts, and fine tuned them to fit . I've also picked up a control valve service manual and an oring kit to refurb the valve. The valve is all torn down now and all parts are in good shape. As soon as fall leaf cleanup is done, I'll be able to get some front mount patterns and measurements for the pump carrier and then I should be set to get an order in to the laser cutter. This will be a fun project. Hopefully it will be ready for mulch spreading duty come spring.

I would like to share this idea to help take some of the weight which the snowblower/thrower adds to the front, and add it to the rear. While also making the blower easier to lift. I know some of you use the spring to help with lifting, but most of its tension is when the blower is in the down position. I ran the cable directly through the cable tube and not using the rock shaft. Ran it it through a pulley (NOS idler I had) which is connected to the "attach-o-matic" and back to the bottom hole in the lift arm. While the flag is in the upper hole of the lift arm, the weight that is in the rear, is connected to he bottom hole giving the added weight a little better mechanical advantage. So the weight in the back is actually helping to lift the weight in the front.

I told the Dino's they could swim..

Storage space is not an issue. Convincing the wife I need a dozen Wheel Horse tractors is where I may run into a problem!

All of us Jim...all of us ...we have an eye for them! Damn dog!!!

I could read it all as well .... many times I wished we had a spell checker here what worse i am all thumbs on a keyboard, had more interest in girls than typing class in high school.....

Seriously, more like at least another $1K for the 5xi market. Be careful when adjusting the motion control and and make sure it is solid on the wheel stands. That is a lot of weight to come down.

Thatsit I neffer crect mi spelin agin.

I can read it with no problem at all. Not sure I could write backwards though.

So wait. I'm confused. Glenn, are you saying this is a good tractor and he should buy it?

Rotors are slick as glass, almost transparent even.

You need to patronize the Jiffy Lube my wife was going to. When our Mountaineer had about 35K on it they told her it would need brakes soon, pads were down to 20 percent; with 41K they said it had 45 percent left. At that rate we would have new brakes on it by the time we got to 60K. I told her from then on I would take it to a private family owned garage with trustworthy employees. Had the car inspected the other day at 75K and have about 30 percent left.

another good tip that i just used on two of mine that were stuck is a pipe wrench. soak it first of course ,grab a 2 footer, the jaws seem to fit just right and get a nice tight grab on it. best of all didnt waste the pin.

Flasher!!

They probably kept re-setting the wear indicator.

If they come in flavors it might catch on with wives for their husbands...or vice versa...

Mowing lawns is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you're gonna hit...

http://struckcorp.com/contact-us/location-how-to-order

@953 nut that is a good site for rubber (baby buggy) bumpers! Lots of options.

Retail from Original Tractor Cab cab 885 glass window 180 electric wiper 199 work lights 79 safety light 99 mirror 44 loaded cab 1471 + shipping

OK. Here's what we learned today. When l started in on the tractor, I started working from the front. Points gap was fine. Pulled off the air filter cover to find it was soaked with fuel, along with the filter. Pulled the carb, drained it, pulled the bowl. While it was upside down to check the float adjustment, I noticed that float was laying on the carb body and needle valve was doing nothing, come to find out the new needle valve is 1/32 shorter then my old one (I keep everything). I took my stock clip off of the new needle valve and used the one provided in the kit. Had to make a minor float adjusment because of the different needle valve clip. Put back together, and runs like a champ. Turns over once and fires right up. I chaulk this up to being in a hurry, thinking the all new parts were apples to apples. So no safety interlocks issues. Coil is good, also it has a internal resister with a resistive value of 3.2 to 3.5. Keeping just below the 9.6v that I was concerned about. I didn't want to burn my points up. Stevasaurus, you were spot on. Thank you all though for your responses and guidance. Ty

Works great, have done it, and they chuck apples real well

Here is what is will look like. I love mine!!

My 42" blower with custom made chute and weight rack is ready for snow! I have one concern that maybe some could answer: The right side of the blower doesn't quite touch the ground (1/8") if the lift assist spring is attached but sits level across without lift spring attached. Left side if sitting on tractor (chain side) touches no problem. Any ideas as too why? The only thing I can think of is too much tension on spring, do I need a longer eye bolt?

Slammer,,john is driving out for the "ceremony" the secret handshake and words that go with it. Sorry ,, lips zipped from here. Gunga la,,la dung gala,,nuff said...shush,,,,,,,,, glenn

My cab was rigid in the front to back direction... there is a diagonal brace on each side, but mine had a lot of L to R movement , so much that the cab posts were rubbing on the hood. I added this small angle to lock the cab to the console on the left side and all side sway is gone. I also checked the charging system; At idle with nothing on' At idle with all tractor and cab lights and wiper on; At half throttle with all on; So it doesn't appear there will be any charging problems with this amount of equipment. Heaters, air cond. big screens....now that may take some aux. power. I was thinking about switching the windshields on my 520 and 312 cabs so the wiper was on my blower. But the 520 cab is totally different. The roof is actually 5" longer.

I bought it!! It has sum serious motion control issues as soon as you starts it takes off in reverse and it goes faster in reverse than forward and it almost comes to a stop when trying to turn because the auto slow down when turning but i will get it adjusted right Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk And it wouldn't fit in my little truck with the deck on I have to go back for the deck this weekend Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I have an old blower on my 520. Yes it works fine. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I've fallen and I can't get up.............

Their mouth wrote a check that their butt can't cash!

Thats the look they give you right after they fart..........Just before you smell it.................. "Me? No...It's that smoking, belching, nasty, smelly kohler you refuse to rebuild...It's stinking up the entire neighborhood and contributing to global climate change..."

Give this a look. http://www.steelerubber.com/bumpers

I hope so too...that is about the worst that can happen....take the bolts out by hand (not impact) and you should be OK. Drain it first, then put the trans in a vise with the input pulley side down. Take off the brake shaft side first. You may want to check for burrs on all the shaft ends first and file them down...makes it easier to take the side plates off. Take out the bolts on the input side while it is in the vise so you can loosen the casting from the input side. Take off the gear on top of the cluster gear shaft (you may nave to shift the casting a little to make this happen). Then take out the gear and spline shaft through the fork gears. AT this point, you may want to pop the trans into 2nd gear (lift up the lower fork one notch)...this will make it easy to lift out the cluster gear shaft. Move the fork gears out toward the center and remove the forked gears. What is left is the 11/44 tooth gear and the differential and the input gear it self. You have to take the casting and move it around to get it to bypass the brake shaft gear and the differential. Those little bolt thingys and the casting that hold the bolts for the seat are tight and that is what you have to maneuver around. Once you get the casting off, you can just lift out the differential and the brake shaft gear...and then the input gear it self. That is it. Pop off the seals on the axles and see what the bronze bearings look like...when new, they look uniform with about 1/16" of bronze all the way around. A worn one will not have much bronze on the top and bottom. You can look down the axles toward the differential housing to see if the bronze bearings there look like they should...they should look like about 1/16" of bronze all the way around. If they look bad, you have to tap out the roll pins in the pinions and remove, and then tap out the roll pins in the axles to take out the axles and the axle gears. Your side plates should be nothing but bearings now...see if they turn easy...sound good or need replacing. There should be 3 closed bearings and 4 what I call open bearings, unless you happen to have the needle bearing on one end of the brake shaft. Check and clean all gears, especially the axle gears. At this point, let's see what you find and go from there. Take some pictures of what you have in there...there are some different possibilities. Do not worry about labeling parts, there is only one of each and I can walk you through putting it back together. Really, it goes back together in reverse of how you take it part...if you do it the way I mention. Let see what you find and go from there. You will have to cut your own gaskets for the side plates...not hard. Gasket material is available at Auto Zone. Money...gasket material is about $6...bronze axle bearings $2.50 each...differential housing bronze bearings $3.24 each...open bearings (S8K) $13.84 each... the closed bearings should be OK...brake shaft seal and input seal are around $4+ each...the axle seals are only available from Toro about $18/19 each. We may have to look for any gears that may be bad...not a big deal and not expensive for used. Judging by what you are telling me about your trans, I would figure somewhere between $60 and 100 to make like new and get another 50/60 years service...definitely worth it. Did not want to scare you, but I thought you may want to know what you are getting into. money wise. Also, no special tools are needed...although a good set of punches for the roll pins help a lot...$10/15. I also recommend a bottle of Rock&Rye on hand...when things get a little rough...have a sip. I guarantee you will be able to do this, and enjoy it and feel like a million bucks when you take her out for that first ride. The Rock&Rye is very important. :bow-blue: