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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/03/2015 in Posts
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6 pointsJust took some pictures on 12 year old digital camera and fumbled around till I got on the computor..... Bear with me please I may need some help.... By the way it is of my 520H with the new cab I installed yesterday......
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5 points
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4 pointsPut new tires on my 520H, so my HF tire changer paid for itself already. One new, one old: Both replaced:
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4 pointsHere's mine made out of a 3/8" rod and a shaft coupler.
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4 pointsThe cab in box shipping weight was 69 pounds. The brackets are stout, well made and fit as designed. The top is well formed and everything lines up so all the holes match and makes installation simple but time consuming. Cab material and windows were packed well and had no scratches or damage. i would recommend this cab to anyone who is considering buying a cab. This one fits great.
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4 pointsI've used my 704 for everything but a grocery getter. Here's my favorite glamour shot!
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4 points
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4 points
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3 pointsI thought i would share my little lawn ranger winter project with you guys i bought this little guy over the summer and haven't did much with it besides give it a good cleaning it ran when i got it but smoked a little and was had to start and the more i used it the worse it got i think it is a combination of things so the plan is to focus on the engine wont really know how bad it is till i tear into it i will keep you posted.
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3 pointsHi All, after tinkering around with my '64 704 for what seems like forever, I finally got it to the point that it is rideable and near completion. The original pull start motor had a sticking exhaust valve, so I replaced it with a later model k181 with the starter attached to it, converting it to electric start. Of course it had to be wired to make everything work, and I ended up using a motorcycle battery, since a standard garden tractor battery won't fit (starter encroaches into the battery box area). After searching this site, and discussing my options with other members, I decided to attach the regulator/rectifier via metal straps to right side of the frame above where the belt guard is (there are a couple of pre-drilled holes from the factory already there, so I bolted the straps there). I took it out yesterday for a shakedown run around my yard for about 25 mins with the only issue being the throttle will not lock in place. While working on it over this past year, It seemed like once I thought it was ready to go, something else would throw me a curve ball, (couldn't get it to rev past 1/2 throttle, governor not working, dead battery etc.) but it's all sorted now and running like a champ. It fires right up (after I figured out that full choke and about 1/4 throttle does the trick) and is reading a little over 14 volts when running, and the battery shows over 13 volts when I shut it off, so the charging system is functioning as designed. I can't tell you how elated I am that this 51 year old garden tractor is finally alive. This 704 is in it's original somewhat crusty patina, and I haven't decided if I should repaint it or not. I'm open to suggestions. Attached is a picture of it when I first got it in March or 2013, in the picture it has the original K161 motor with an aftermarket bolt on electric starter. Thanks to all that have provided suggestions in the past.
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3 points
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2 points
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2 pointsThroughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!
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2 pointsHey everyone, here is the article that we ran in LAGT, Volume 3, Issue 5. A lot of controversy about this. Very interesting story though. Enjoy!
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2 points
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2 pointsHello all, what a wonderful site you have here, I've been lurking around here for about 6 months, stopped by and took a picture of the serial number on what I think is a 1964 654 that I grew up on,, # 6712. I'm gonna be looking for a round hood to replace the one we lost about 30 years ago,, my Granddad and I replaced the 6hp motor with an 18 hp motor and the hood wouldn't fit so it got set aside and eventually lost. i left for the army and he passed on, the tractor was sold and hasn't run since, I bought it back for $185 yesterday, three tires are still holding air! anyway I was hopeful I could find out for sure what it is
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2 pointsTo Adjust the lift arms - start the engine and pull up on the lift lever until the lift arms are all the way up. Then tighten the nuts until the lift arms are tight against the footrest support. This is for all models - doesn't matter what attachment.
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2 pointsHere is part of my crew from last year. I bought my glass windshield (painted the outside red) from a JD dealer online for less than the amount quoted. In my opinion it stiffens the cab up as well as being nice. The only thing is the vinyl window can be shaken to clear but you need the wiper on the glass windshield. Later in the season last year I found a source for the motorized windshield wiper for less than $100.00 and it will be replacing the manual one this year. I've got a few more goodies to add for this year's version. The Ariens cab came from the same JD dealer for way less than MSRP as well. I got tired of looking like a snowman!
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2 pointsThe 5xi cab uses a bracket on the inside of the cab to replace the bracket that went to the mid-mount.
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2 pointsSometimes I feel like the member of the month of the famous red faced club !
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2 points
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2 pointsPoor Buckman, his supervisor didn't realize that he was just giving us something to talk about 53 years later.
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2 pointsMy hoobie-doobie is worn out from all the trips to the garage. Now I'm sitting here going through the old dealers manual and service notes and I may have hit on something. I know they are really drawings but it's very clear in the drawings that through 1962 the set screw was 90 degrees off the hub. From 1963 on the set screw is on the key. Not conclusive but pretty darn good evidence that Buckman was fired late in 62.
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2 pointsBob, you are starting to sound like you know what you are talking about...how flat is your hoodie-doobie?? I would speculate that the #3574 hubs were ordered by the hundreds and keyed and drilled out at the factory. So, maybe all 3 hole hubs are #3574 and some where, along the way, a wily supervisor came up behind some guy and said..."Buckman, what the hell are you doing? "" Buckman..."drilling out the #3574 hubs Sir!" Supervisor..."Buckman, like an idiot, you are drilling the set screw hole in the wrong place...it is supposed to be on the key way!" "Now you look at this engineered drawing and fix what you are doing wrong." "I'll be back at 1100 hundred hours and you had better have this squared away...do you know what time 1100 hundred hours is Buckman? " Buckman..."It's 1 hour past 1000 hundred hours Sir."
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2 pointsI ended up using a Teflon dry lube on all the linkage that didn't already have zerks. It works really well right now. We will see how it holds up over time... Have you ever had a time on one of your tractors, whether new or old, where something didn't seem right and you feared the worst? Maybe it is a noise, a strange vibration, or something isn't operating like it should. So, you dive neck deep into trouble shooting only to find out it is something simple! That is such a relief because it makes up for the times when there is a major parts breakage! Such is is the case with my D! Ever since I bought it, it made a distinct pinging sound at idle. The more I heard it, the more worried I became that it was something major. It was very metallic sounding and came from the flywheel side of the motor. I finally took it to a mechanic friend of mine. He listened to it for about 30 seconds and said that it sounded like something loose externally. I went home pulled off the covers and began to study every nut, bolt, and connection from the PTO back. I didn't get too far before I noticed that the heact bracket which holds the muffler to front of the engine via a frame tab was missing both bolts! The bracket moved very little but enough at idle and just above to create tha very annoying "pinging" sound! Two bolts and it is gone and I'm happy.
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2 pointsRetail from Original Tractor Cab cab 885 glass window 180 electric wiper 199 work lights 79 safety light 99 mirror 44 loaded cab 1471 + shipping
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2 pointsOK. Here's what we learned today. When l started in on the tractor, I started working from the front. Points gap was fine. Pulled off the air filter cover to find it was soaked with fuel, along with the filter. Pulled the carb, drained it, pulled the bowl. While it was upside down to check the float adjustment, I noticed that float was laying on the carb body and needle valve was doing nothing, come to find out the new needle valve is 1/32 shorter then my old one (I keep everything). I took my stock clip off of the new needle valve and used the one provided in the kit. Had to make a minor float adjusment because of the different needle valve clip. Put back together, and runs like a champ. Turns over once and fires right up. I chaulk this up to being in a hurry, thinking the all new parts were apples to apples. So no safety interlocks issues. Coil is good, also it has a internal resister with a resistive value of 3.2 to 3.5. Keeping just below the 9.6v that I was concerned about. I didn't want to burn my points up. Stevasaurus, you were spot on. Thank you all though for your responses and guidance. Ty
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsBlowing with the 520, pushing with the C165. I haven't fixed the tail light, because hopefully I am going to tear down the 520 over the winter and fix anything I find, clean it up, paint it, and drop the NOS engine in it.
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2 points
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2 pointsThe only rational reason for the set screw not having been placed over the key would be that it is the thinnest, and therefor the weakest point on the casting. You may want to drill a shallow hole in the axle under the set screw too.
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2 points
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2 pointsGreat looking ... and once you're in there, you're going to love that cab.
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2 points
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2 pointsIt sure does sound like the coil. The problem may be...now that you have fixed the issue...you may have created another one by rebuilding the carb, etc. I think I would take a good look at the carb again at this point.
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2 points
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2 pointsThanks for the hospitality. I have learned a lot the past month by reading different topics in the forum. Here are a couple of before and after pictures. I just did a garage restore, but it turned out pretty decent. I did pick up a 48" blade for it this week. Will post more pics with the blade attached later. Thanks again for the support!!!
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1 pointHoly schmidt on the price....have to take out a mortage for that... still nice and I suppose cheaper than a plow for a truck. Does a guy really need the lights or are the one on the 520 ok? I would guess the more the better. Also how easy does it come on & off for summer duty?
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointAdmit it AMC you want them ags on the front...you NEED them ags on the front...think I stole that from a movie....would be sharp tho...
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1 point
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1 pointYeah me too!. I'm not sure what kinda of technology is out there these days but don't you wish there was some type of sensor that could determine that there is human activity on your property and that it could have woke the Duke up. The situation could get a little dangerous but wouldn't it be nice to see that punk turn around and have to face the Duke..
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1 pointI was just blowing out the mouse nest I found in the JD I rescued. I stuffed a clean rag in the carb, and then put the filter on over that, so I didn't get any in the carb. Finished up, and couldn't figure out why it would barely run. Ran better after I took the rag out!
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1 pointpicked this up at jacktown tractor show Saturday still has the original muffler and steering support also has wheel weights and 701 blade