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Just took some pictures on 12 year old digital camera and fumbled around till I got on the computor..... Bear with me please I may need some help.... By the way it is of my 520H with the new cab I installed yesterday......

Alright! Alright! I admit, I'm a fan of 'em.

Put new tires on my 520H, so my HF tire changer paid for itself already. One new, one old: Both replaced:

Here's mine made out of a 3/8" rod and a shaft coupler.

The cab in box shipping weight was 69 pounds. The brackets are stout, well made and fit as designed. The top is well formed and everything lines up so all the holes match and makes installation simple but time consuming. Cab material and windows were packed well and had no scratches or damage. i would recommend this cab to anyone who is considering buying a cab. This one fits great.

I've used my 704 for everything but a grocery getter. Here's my favorite glamour shot!

Yeah, we had some heavy snows last year

We get real snow here in western NY

I thought i would share my little lawn ranger winter project with you guys i bought this little guy over the summer and haven't did much with it besides give it a good cleaning it ran when i got it but smoked a little and was had to start and the more i used it the worse it got i think it is a combination of things so the plan is to focus on the engine wont really know how bad it is till i tear into it i will keep you posted.

Hi All, after tinkering around with my '64 704 for what seems like forever, I finally got it to the point that it is rideable and near completion. The original pull start motor had a sticking exhaust valve, so I replaced it with a later model k181 with the starter attached to it, converting it to electric start. Of course it had to be wired to make everything work, and I ended up using a motorcycle battery, since a standard garden tractor battery won't fit (starter encroaches into the battery box area). After searching this site, and discussing my options with other members, I decided to attach the regulator/rectifier via metal straps to right side of the frame above where the belt guard is (there are a couple of pre-drilled holes from the factory already there, so I bolted the straps there). I took it out yesterday for a shakedown run around my yard for about 25 mins with the only issue being the throttle will not lock in place. While working on it over this past year, It seemed like once I thought it was ready to go, something else would throw me a curve ball, (couldn't get it to rev past 1/2 throttle, governor not working, dead battery etc.) but it's all sorted now and running like a champ. It fires right up (after I figured out that full choke and about 1/4 throttle does the trick) and is reading a little over 14 volts when running, and the battery shows over 13 volts when I shut it off, so the charging system is functioning as designed. I can't tell you how elated I am that this 51 year old garden tractor is finally alive. This 704 is in it's original somewhat crusty patina, and I haven't decided if I should repaint it or not. I'm open to suggestions. Attached is a picture of it when I first got it in March or 2013, in the picture it has the original K161 motor with an aftermarket bolt on electric starter. Thanks to all that have provided suggestions in the past.

Thank you Lord for bring this Wheel Horse into my life!

They are a work horse

CXn If you want some lake effect snow come to Western new York

Hey everyone, here is the article that we ran in LAGT, Volume 3, Issue 5. A lot of controversy about this. Very interesting story though. Enjoy!

Got my boy ready for working the drive...plan to burn all shovels...lol

I'm no mechanic, but they look fine to me. Are they ripping me off?

Throughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!

Compliments of my eleven year old granddaughter.

Hello all, what a wonderful site you have here, I've been lurking around here for about 6 months, stopped by and took a picture of the serial number on what I think is a 1964 654 that I grew up on,, # 6712. I'm gonna be looking for a round hood to replace the one we lost about 30 years ago,, my Granddad and I replaced the 6hp motor with an 18 hp motor and the hood wouldn't fit so it got set aside and eventually lost. i left for the army and he passed on, the tractor was sold and hasn't run since, I bought it back for $185 yesterday, three tires are still holding air! anyway I was hopeful I could find out for sure what it is

To Adjust the lift arms - start the engine and pull up on the lift lever until the lift arms are all the way up. Then tighten the nuts until the lift arms are tight against the footrest support. This is for all models - doesn't matter what attachment.

Here is part of my crew from last year. I bought my glass windshield (painted the outside red) from a JD dealer online for less than the amount quoted. In my opinion it stiffens the cab up as well as being nice. The only thing is the vinyl window can be shaken to clear but you need the wiper on the glass windshield. Later in the season last year I found a source for the motorized windshield wiper for less than $100.00 and it will be replacing the manual one this year. I've got a few more goodies to add for this year's version. The Ariens cab came from the same JD dealer for way less than MSRP as well. I got tired of looking like a snowman!

The 5xi cab uses a bracket on the inside of the cab to replace the bracket that went to the mid-mount.

Sometimes I feel like the member of the month of the famous red faced club !

Give this a look. http://www.steelerubber.com/bumpers

Poor Buckman, his supervisor didn't realize that he was just giving us something to talk about 53 years later.

My hoobie-doobie is worn out from all the trips to the garage. Now I'm sitting here going through the old dealers manual and service notes and I may have hit on something. I know they are really drawings but it's very clear in the drawings that through 1962 the set screw was 90 degrees off the hub. From 1963 on the set screw is on the key. Not conclusive but pretty darn good evidence that Buckman was fired late in 62.

Bob, you are starting to sound like you know what you are talking about...how flat is your hoodie-doobie?? I would speculate that the #3574 hubs were ordered by the hundreds and keyed and drilled out at the factory. So, maybe all 3 hole hubs are #3574 and some where, along the way, a wily supervisor came up behind some guy and said..."Buckman, what the hell are you doing? "" Buckman..."drilling out the #3574 hubs Sir!" Supervisor..."Buckman, like an idiot, you are drilling the set screw hole in the wrong place...it is supposed to be on the key way!" "Now you look at this engineered drawing and fix what you are doing wrong." "I'll be back at 1100 hundred hours and you had better have this squared away...do you know what time 1100 hundred hours is Buckman? " Buckman..."It's 1 hour past 1000 hundred hours Sir."

I ended up using a Teflon dry lube on all the linkage that didn't already have zerks. It works really well right now. We will see how it holds up over time... Have you ever had a time on one of your tractors, whether new or old, where something didn't seem right and you feared the worst? Maybe it is a noise, a strange vibration, or something isn't operating like it should. So, you dive neck deep into trouble shooting only to find out it is something simple! That is such a relief because it makes up for the times when there is a major parts breakage! Such is is the case with my D! Ever since I bought it, it made a distinct pinging sound at idle. The more I heard it, the more worried I became that it was something major. It was very metallic sounding and came from the flywheel side of the motor. I finally took it to a mechanic friend of mine. He listened to it for about 30 seconds and said that it sounded like something loose externally. I went home pulled off the covers and began to study every nut, bolt, and connection from the PTO back. I didn't get too far before I noticed that the heact bracket which holds the muffler to front of the engine via a frame tab was missing both bolts! The bracket moved very little but enough at idle and just above to create tha very annoying "pinging" sound! Two bolts and it is gone and I'm happy.

Retail from Original Tractor Cab cab 885 glass window 180 electric wiper 199 work lights 79 safety light 99 mirror 44 loaded cab 1471 + shipping

OK. Here's what we learned today. When l started in on the tractor, I started working from the front. Points gap was fine. Pulled off the air filter cover to find it was soaked with fuel, along with the filter. Pulled the carb, drained it, pulled the bowl. While it was upside down to check the float adjustment, I noticed that float was laying on the carb body and needle valve was doing nothing, come to find out the new needle valve is 1/32 shorter then my old one (I keep everything). I took my stock clip off of the new needle valve and used the one provided in the kit. Had to make a minor float adjusment because of the different needle valve clip. Put back together, and runs like a champ. Turns over once and fires right up. I chaulk this up to being in a hurry, thinking the all new parts were apples to apples. So no safety interlocks issues. Coil is good, also it has a internal resister with a resistive value of 3.2 to 3.5. Keeping just below the 9.6v that I was concerned about. I didn't want to burn my points up. Stevasaurus, you were spot on. Thank you all though for your responses and guidance. Ty

Do you feel lucky....punk!

I'm afraid if I drive it to the store, the Amish might steal it!

ok Ncholson.........you did it perfect glenn

Blowing with the 520, pushing with the C165. I haven't fixed the tail light, because hopefully I am going to tear down the 520 over the winter and fix anything I find, clean it up, paint it, and drop the NOS engine in it.

Beautiful setup, and tractor.

The only rational reason for the set screw not having been placed over the key would be that it is the thinnest, and therefor the weakest point on the casting. You may want to drill a shallow hole in the axle under the set screw too.

What world you liven in Craig?? Oh never mind.. I'm typing this on a smart phone. ..

Great looking ... and once you're in there, you're going to love that cab.

You might be suprised... by the work these little guys can do.

It sure does sound like the coil. The problem may be...now that you have fixed the issue...you may have created another one by rebuilding the carb, etc. I think I would take a good look at the carb again at this point.

X-2 ^ . My 4x4 is really in there

Thanks for the hospitality. I have learned a lot the past month by reading different topics in the forum. Here are a couple of before and after pictures. I just did a garage restore, but it turned out pretty decent. I did pick up a 48" blade for it this week. Will post more pics with the blade attached later. Thanks again for the support!!!

Another one here

he does have a back up camera...

I can only guess from the picture you're asking about...is that "sleeve" what's left of the old shaft seal? It's been a while, but I don't recall a sleeve of any sorts being in there. Pretty sure the bearings and seals get pressed directly into the casted holes. Could it be the outer race of an old needle bearing you're looking at? (I don't think so, but just throwing it out there for you.) BTW...you're doing a great complete job for sure. Take your time with no apologies.

That's interesting bean but probably not original to the 854. They had 5 lugs. Knowing that most all of the cast parts back then has numbers I just now took a scrub brush to the 3 lug hubs that I said didn't have a number. Sure enough, I was able to make out the number. Another pair of 3574 hubs. So there you have it. Two pairs of hubs marked 3574, one with the set screw on the key way, one with it about 90 off. More Wheel Horse inconsistency. This really didn't surprise me. Over the years I've seen many parts that were designed different but had the same number on them. Often the difference was more than just a set screw hole relocated. The second set of 3574's were on one of the tractors recently given to me. The other had 5 lug hubs. The tractors are a 657 and a 500 Special. According to the original parts list both should have 5 lug hubs Obviously switched out.

Ok John I thought about that last night and did some more research this morning! It looks like if all that happened it will go to some kind of GLORIOUS COMMITEE VOTE! This copied from some site! this whole thing would be a real cluster F#@K This article was written on Oct 20th By Luke Zimmerman SB Nation. From what I read here its almost certain That Ohio will go. ~Duke Humor me for a second. I think if Ohio State and Michigan had played two weeks ago, the Wolverines would've won going away. This past weekend? Well, I'm more inclined to think if everything's in a vacuum, the Buckeyes would've had a much better chance of coming away victorious. As the season progresses, particularly if the Buckeyes are able to find consistency at quarterback and a stable identity offensively, the more talented team should take it. But what if they don't? As is known to happen in the storied rivalry, first-year head coaches tend to punch above their weight. Basically, in the modern era, if you aren't named John Cooper (sorry, not-interim-but-seriously-interim Luke Fickell) or Rich Rodriguez, you've got a pretty darn good shot at winning your first. To say nothing of the advanced stats, which put OSU's odds of winning at just 29%. Clearly no Ohio State fan wants to fathom the detriment to their well-being an offseason of condensed Michigan smugness would surely inflict, but let's say for argument's sake that Michigan does beat Ohio State in Ann Arbor the Saturday after Thanksgiving. And also for the purposes of this hypothetical, the Buckeyes handle their business a week prior at home on Senior Day against Sparty (which, FWIW, the same advanced metrics peg OSU's probability of victory at 75%). If all three teams win out, which team lays claim to the Big Ten East divisional championship, and who heads to Indianapolis to play who will almost certainly be Iowa? Let's start with making sense of the Big Ten's divisional tiebreakers: The following procedure will determine the representative from each division in the event of a tie: (a) If two teams are tied, the winner of the game between the two tied teams shall be the representative. (b) If three or more teams are tied, steps 1 through 7 will be followed until a determination is made. If only two teams remain tied after any step, the winner of the game between the two tied teams shall be the representative. 1. The records of the three tied teams will be compared against each other. 2. The records of the three tied teams will be compared within their division. 3. The records of the three teams will be compared against the next highest placed teams in their division in order of finish (4, 5, 6, and 7). 4. The records of the three teams will be compared against all common conference opponents. 5. The highest ranked team in the first College Football Playoff poll following the completion of Big Ten regular season conference play shall be the representative in the Big Ten Championship Game, unless the two highest ranked tied teams are ranked within one spot of each other in the College Football Playoff poll. In this case, the head-to-head results of the top two ranked tied teams shall determine the representative in the Big Ten Championship Game. 6. The team with the best overall winning percentage [excluding exempted games] shall be the representative. 7. The representative will be chosen by random draw. So, again, assuming Ohio State and Michigan State are 11-1 (7-1) and the Wolverines are 10-2 (7-1), how do these play out? Tiebreaker 1. The records of the 3 tied teams compared against each other. There was some debate among our staff as to what exactly this constituted. Historically, "the record" refers to conference play standings, as overall record shouldn't factor in until late in the process (particularly given the Big Ten recent emphasis on encouraging stronger out-of-conference scheduling). Another staff member argued it meant all games played. We reached out to the Big Ten's league office, which clarified it referred, very literally, to the three team's records against one another. That would mean: Ohio State 1-1 Michigan State 1-1 Michigan 1-1 On to the next one. Tiebreaker 2. The records of the 3 tied teams compared within their division. This is, for all intents and purposes, their divisional records. Since again in our hypothetical scenario, none of the three teams lose again otherwise, we're looking at another draw. Ohio State 5-1 Michigan State 5-1 Michigan 5-1 To No. 3: Tiebreaker 3. The records of the 3 teams will be compared against the next highest placed teams in their division in order of finish (4, 5, 6, and 7). This one proves to be a bit redundant. Since for our example's purposes, all three of the Big Ten East's "Big 3" win out, they're not going to have a team that holds a win over any of them that can be used to break this tie. We're also less inclined to have a tie in the first place unless all three lose another, and that seems like the most unlikely of scenarios. Tiebreaker 4. The records of the 3 teams will be compared against all common conference opponents. This one proves to be pretty short. The only common intradivisional opponents any of the three schools share is Minnesota, whom both Ohio State and Michigan face. Assuming a win for both, we're on to Tiebreaker 5. Tiebreaker 5. The highest ranked team in the first College Football Playoff poll following the completion of Big Ten regular season conference play shall be the representative in the Big Ten Championship Game, unless the two highest ranked tied teams are ranked within one spot of each other in the College Football Playoff poll. In this case, the head-to-head results of the top two ranked tied teams shall determine the representative in the Big Ten Championship Game. This is where we should finally start to see some separation between our three. While the Wolverines are having a renaissance season for the ages, their two aggregate losses puts them behind the eight ball here. While the committee could reward a one-loss Alabama over an undefeated team playing uneven football against a weaker schedule (see, Florida State last year) for seeding purposes, it's unlikely to favor a two-loss team over a one-loss one, especially when you factor in one of those two losses would have come head-to-head against Michigan State. Even if Michigan reverts to the same form it displayed against Northwestern, Maryland, and BYU as though the State game ending never happened, and somehow Ohio State and Michigan State win out (sans those two games) and look underwhelming doing so, the committee outright dismissing the MSU-UM game's outcome still seems like a stretch. So what about Ohio State vs. Michigan State? Again, in our hypothetical, the Buckeyes would win that one outright. How we get there aside, and given Michigan's two overall loses, the Buckeyes would be the team I'd wager most likely to benefit from the committee determining the Big Ten East's Big Ten Championship Game representative. But the playoff committee's deliberation picking a winner raises all kinds of logistical questions. As things currently stand, the committee won't release its penultimate rankings until Tuesday, Dec. 1 at 7 p.m. ET. That's a full 72 hours plus after the Ohio State-Michigan game. Would as many as two (if not three) teams have to prepare as though they were heading to Indianapolis without knowing for sure until Tuesday night? And what about fans looking to secure tickets and shore up travel logistics? With the committee usually not even flying to Dallas to deliberate until that Monday, expedited rankings might not be feasible or realistic. But what if somehow the two highest ranked of Ohio State, Michigan State, and Michigan are within one of one another in that week's College Football Playoff rankings? What then? Well, we'd go back to the head-to-head between those two teams and the representative would be determined. Sadly, we're spared from Tiebreaker 6 (overall winning percentage), which would smile favorably on hypothetical Ohio State and Michigan State but not Michigan, and to the late Bo Schembechler's delight, Tiebreaker 7 (random draw). * * * So if any one of the three remaining teams loses a game it isn't expected to, all this goes out the window. But if college football plays out how we expect it might, we're looking at a tiny bit of college football in 2008 redux. Whether it's Ohio State, Michigan State, or Michigan in Indianapolis, if everyone's 7-1 in conference play, somebody's going to have a beef about being left out.

I personally have never used slime..never will. To me it's a poor substitute for doing it right. Like a can of tune up when yer valve guides are shot. Your HF changer sounds like it helped tho. You plan on blowing or pushing with your 520? Now let's talk about getting that busted tail light fixed...chain

Hmmmm, that's interesting and will now take a look at all my hubs.

Nice job Doug!! Looks great. I was wondering how you were progressing. Now I know. You should have got the extension with the hardware kit.