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Had some wheel barrow work to do so I got the wheel barrow out. It is dirty and needs a good cleaning too. Marvin

Spray that valve now with some PB blaster, Kroil, etc because chances are if its never been opened it won't want to now!

Came home to find my $5.00 Chinese carb came today... finally, was able to get the little Techy to do more than just pop off. Now, we just need to get the choke/ throttle cables, and fuel tank set up... and this Special 500 will be back to doing some business.

Somebody here has been watching too many old black and white Andy Griffith Show reruns LOL

That beer would have come alot earlier for me! LOL, Glad you got it off without any other damage.

I think the really weird thing is that someone would pay 400 for it and not be a true WH junkie meaning not a member here??? Or maybe he is and just not goin to fess up that he had to pay that for an orginal? Where do you come up with them awesome pics and even awesomer tractors AMC??? You either got wayyyyy too much money or time on yer hands!!!

plow size is measured from the landside(the side that is up against the land when in a furrow) to the edge of the mouldboard(the big curvy bit) measuring across

I'm new to this forum and just recently got my first 300 series wheel horse 310-8 and I love it. Yours looks nice to me and you got a great deal! Good luck with it.

I buy my hose (1/4") from McMaster they have been sending Gates Brand made in USA. Should las as long as anything can. I buy a box of hose clamps (worm style) Size 04 (7/32-5/8") stainless steel. Also put in fuel filters and shut off valves near the filters.

If you send me your address in a PM, I will send you one for nothing. Fastenal has them, but you need to buy 25 for about $5. Up to you. It's in the mail, you should get it Monday.

You Won!!!!!

I'm sorry Van, but it just scares me when some bad ideas are sometimes presented. It's just like the Democrats vs the Republicans...if you say something enough it becomes true in the mind of those that do not know better. Sawdust would be better....I can't believe I just said that. Do it right the first time. That's the ticket.

Hey Paul, It appears your side extensions are not installed correctly. The leading short bend should be parallel to the sides of the blower housing. If you reverse them, the blower should cut through and feed the snow to the auger much more efficiently.

HAH!! boy these horses can have some stuck on pieces - steering wheel/hubs come to mind. I had a hub in a situation similar to yours - I had got to the point where I said (between a lot of *&%#&^) that I was gonna get that *&%*^$ piece of &^%** off if it killed me!! I had the slot cut in it like you and it still wouldnt budge, I ended up cutting a 45 degree chunk out and it finally came off -- dangest thing. Course axle was ruined too...

I have destroyed 4 pullers this past summer, So I feel your pain. As I restore my GT14, I am polishing every shaft and dosing with liberal amounts of anti-seize, Does not help those of us repairing or restoring now but should I ever need to pull pulleys, hubs or flywheels in the future or should someone else do so, it should make life a lot easier.

Very nice looking tractor! Nice find. On your s/g, after seeing mine on the inside I would recommend taking it apart and clean real good then determine if more is needed. It's easy to do and then you know what you have.

Augers can be tough to straighten but I straightened 2 last year with a good sized rose bud torch we have here at work with the blower assembled and on my tractor. It was nice that way because after it cooled I could turn the blower on to check how it ran. My suggestion would be to move the tall chute to the good blower housing with good auger. I picked up a tall chute blower last year without the chute so I ended up making myself 2 different chutes. Once I had the extra chute I decided to cut off my short chute and replace it. With a cutoff wheel on my grinder I cut the chute off and left about 1 inch on the bottom rotating piece, lined up the taller chute and marked the holes, drilled them out and mounted it. You might even be able to change over the gear rotation assembly but there is no need to if the original wire rotation is working properly. Here is a pic of the giant chute I made and used all year last year. Surprisingly I never took a photo of the short chute that I made a tall chute. I did pick up an actual tall chute at the end of this summer so I will probably do some chute rearranging again this year.

I have an 8 speed. I must say I have not seen to many myself either. My property is pretty hilly so I really don't ever run it. I have been tossing around the idea of letting it go to a new home.... maybe lol

Mine is the same year, engine and trans. Starts easy and runs like a top! I do like the sound of that twin. Even at idle, it sounds like a farm tractor One thing I had to do right away was install an electric fuel pump. The cam must be worn that operates the fuel pump lever so the engine would run itself out of gas quickly. For under $20 with the pump (ebay), fusable link (auto parts store), and a relay that i had from a mustang it works great!

OK I have just bitten the bullet, I have purchased the piston, lets hope I don't **** it up putting it all back together. If I had bought the kit complete from the begining I could have saved quite a considerable sum. Ain't hind site wonderful thing?

@HorseFixer That was really slick! Hope you make it to the big show, this would be amazing there as well!

This is the planned finished model:

Bob, that video was a joy to watch, and your choice of music was a perfect fit for the camaradrie evident there.

OK Steve, that post has been edited LOL I don't want to be banned from owning a Wheel Horse, that would be more than I could bear! Please don't take away my right to keep and bear Wheel Horses ! That is an amendment to the US Constitution isn't it?

I couldn't be there, but thanks to Stevasuarus, I got my "Indiana" on today.

Chris, is was great meeting you at Scott's. There has to be kind of a group photo floating around here somewhere.

Chris, It was a real pleasure getting a chance to meet you and I am very honored that you would take the time and resources to spend the day with us. Our conversations were great and I am glad you stopped by on Friday so that we could have a chance to chat a bit. I am glad you made it home safely and are even considering coming back next year, we would love to have you. That 400 you picked up traveled a bunch of miles in a few short days. It started in the back of a truck in Missouri, headed to our show up in Northern Indiana, and then hopped in your truck and made it all the way back down in Florida!!!! I had a great time with everyone and am thankful for the folks that want to spend the day with us.........Year #7 has to be good weather right????? :)

John Burly, in the past, has had them reproduced. He's offered them in two versions, cast iron, and aluminum. Both versions come with, or without handles...and I don't think either of 'em started at $150...just sayin.

I got my Wheel Horse No Name 10 a cpl. months ago. It came with 62 lb. home made wheel weights. I took them off, cleaned all the rust, painted them and made some decals. I used 1/8" pinstripe tape and ran a pinstripe around the outside then clear-coated them. Not too bad.

Me too!! Nice job Craig

These little things will surprise you! http://www.harborfreight.com/gravity-feed-blaster-gun-93221.html They can consume some CFMs but if you have a large tank even a small compressor will power it enough to be of some help. Now I'm not suggesting that this is the right tool to blast a whole blower but for small spots you can't get to or those pits you mentioned they can be a godsend.

I met Bowtieguy/Frank today in Springfield and he brought me this C-175 auto its in pretty good shape no knocks or smoke i know the series 1 kt17 can be a time bomb but this one seems good it ran kinda ruff at first but it ended up being pretty much out of gas after that it ran good the steering is stiff but the trans is very strong and the deck works well and i added a metal seat pan i think i might see if my brother wants it so i can get my 314H back.

I don't think that Raider 10 was made after 1972, but if it is a 1970, 71, or 72, take a look here. http://www.redoyourhorse.com/1970-71-72-raider-sets/ Oh, and

Steve, Just a bad joke!

move the plow over to the right(hitch it in the left hole) set the tractor and plow on level ground. when the plow point is touching the ground the back of the plow should be about an inch off the ground. don't know if you can rotate the plow by loosening two bolts, if you can, put left rear wheel up about 6inches(use a piece of wood or something) loosen the bolts and level the plow. now fasten everything again and you should be good to go this is how you'd want it to look like(sort of)

Congrats on winning that battle Gary! So I gotta ask....why did it HAVE TO come off? Mike........

I'm really liking that bright pump on the black frame (and the black frame in general) I can't wait to see how this one turns out!

I finally got the weights mounted. I had to do alot of grinding and had to cut the little alignment studs off. The weights fit inside the rim much better and don't have so much overhang. Thats what I wanted to achieve so I wont get hung up on things and it's less stress on the bolts holding them on.

Do you want to use it or show it? Do you want to spend much money? Taking it to a sandblaster service will cost you time & money, time you could spend sanding it off yourself. I used a 80 grit 4.5 in. flapper disc on my 4.5 in angle grinder. A grinding wheel will leave scratches to show in your paint. I used Petro Flo paint conditioner as a primer and Rustoleum Sunrise Red spray cans, covers great and dries fast. The petro flo goes on with a brush and takes a day to dry. I made a new bottom scrapper blade , cut the old one out and welded in the one I made , the previous owner ran into something and bent the whole unit back over one inch.. My blower should have gone into the garbage but I saw it as mocking challenge.

That was great, thanks!

Take it to your local industrial sandblaster place. mike

TDF5G , way to go . I wish you more good luck Rick

Just thought I would post some semi final pictures of the barn as it stands today. Over the past few weeks since the meet and greet I was able to stain the wood and paint the windows. The last thing I need to do is to install the snow retention system on the front of the roof eave and then decide if I want to install panels over the front door or maybe go with a wood shake with dark stain? Not sure yet.

Here is the location of the PUSH VALVE on an earlier 16hp Auto....same location for the C-160 and C-121 etc...but tuffer to get to...

Nice find! Just got my first automatic and its been a lot of fun. Greg

Maybe I could come and show you how to roll it onto my trailer. Marvin

Here is what happens.. Some guy really wanted it and his PayPal account had the dough in it, probably from small stuff he sold that he really didn't care about so he stepped up. I have no issue with that. Here's the problem, now every clown out there thinks that is what they are now worth. Doubt that, at the end of the day its just a giant paper weight.

Based on that picture.... I think those spindles would be fine with bearings. The Bearings will run on the outer most edge (doesn't look worn there) and about 1 inch inward of the inner flange. You might save yourself some cash and try bearings before buying more spindles??? If the worn spot is still an issue, I'd even try some liquid metal and filing before replacing. Using those oiled brass bushings for spindle bearings was a terrible idea by WH. I'll get some pictures of my setup tonight after work for you. Edit-Adding pictures of my setup. I double checked and my brass spacers are 3/8" thick cut from the original oil brass bushings. Just used a bench vise and hacksaw/sawzall.

I added the snow plow to it and its pretty sweet with hydro lift Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I have been helped by folks I never knew several times.