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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/01/2015 in Posts
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17 pointsDad helped me out big time by running and grabbing this beauty for me. I have been unable to get away as preparation for the meet and greet is in full swing. I really don't want anymore, but when it is on your bucket list, you go for it. Looks to be in pretty good shape, minus the hole in the deck. I am really only going after the low production number models or ultra collectibles at this point. This will fit nicely in to the collection!
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6 pointsI met Bowtieguy/Frank today in Springfield and he brought me this C-175 auto its in pretty good shape no knocks or smoke i know the series 1 kt17 can be a time bomb but this one seems good it ran kinda ruff at first but it ended up being pretty much out of gas after that it ran good the steering is stiff but the trans is very strong and the deck works well and i added a metal seat pan i think i might see if my brother wants it so i can get my 314H back.
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6 pointsSo another horse followed me home tonight. This time a 1966 wheel horse 1076. This is my first wheel a matic tractor and I must say, it is pretty nice. It also came with a deck, push blade, and wagon. Wagon is pretty rusty, but he did throw in some extra parts. I even had the trailer I hauled it on thrown in on the deal and just had to pay title transfer. It was a good day lol!
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6 pointsour mother asked us if we could come up with a faster method for peeling apples so we came up with this one spade drillbit a tub and a peeler. and a drillpress on low speed
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3 pointsThere are 2 reasons for the regulator terminal to see battery voltage. First is the regulator is powered by DC voltage so it needs to be turned on to control the current it passes to the battery. Second is if the DC terminal does not see battery voltage it means it is not connected to the battery so it can charge it. Best way to cover all models and wiring systems is to turn the key on but the engine not running. See if you have battery voltage at the DC terminal. Garry
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3 pointsRacinbob said: Steve, my vote goes for taking them out, win or lose. Bob, don't take this seriously. I seem to have lost my partner in crime. I set out with Steve to stir the pot and get some excitement going in here and he was going to help with that but he must be otherwise occupied. I think Chris hid all his Rock and Rye awhile back and he must have found it. It could be weeks before we hear from him again. Lighten up fellas, nobody's going anywhere.
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3 pointsMakes sense. The 180A 220v model is $150 more, plus another hundred for the 220 line, and it is basically the same welder, just puts out 40A more. If I need something welded over 1/4" thick, I'll pay someone. The big benefit you will derive is a better duty cycle, the lower price welders are going to require a 45 minute nap after 15 minutes of work. Come to think of it I guess I have a twenty five percent duty cycle too!
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3 pointsIt was just a pile of straps until you put them in hue-sequence (ROYGBIV) color-coded order... THAT'S when it became a problem--i mean-- collection...
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3 pointsI have actually used JB weld as filler 3 different times now and its worked great! It goes on just like bondo and actually sands off pretty easily with an orbital sander. I did a thread a few months ago of a deck repair I did for a co worker and referenced how I used JB weld as filler. Hes been using it this whole season and as far as I know its holding up just fine. As far as fixing them or leaving them I say fix them! If you are putting in the time to make it look nice once again the dents may bug you, and if you do indeed miss the dents once youre done you could always just whack it with a hammer and put them back . I fixed up and painted a 312 of mine a few years ago and fixed a big dent in the front of the hood but didn't realize there were 4 minor ones on the top of the hood. They didn't get filled and they bug me to this day. I have tried to work them out but with no success im worried I will mess up the paint or make more dents and essentially make it look worse.
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3 pointsNo, but I do have a 1972 Honda SL100 in my Van cave with a teddy bear sitting on the seat LOL (sorry no pic of that)
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3 pointsI'm no expert but that looks like a strap collection to me.
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2 points" i know the series 1 kt17 can be a time bomb". Only if you use it on steep inclines or let it run out of oil. Otherwise they are as rock solid as any of the others. CAUTION: Do not operate engine continuously at an angle exceeding 20° in any direction, or for more than 5 minute intervals at angles up to 30° in any direction-as engine damage may result from lack of sufficient lubrication. The C-175 is a beast. That one is a beauty and would get a stall in my barn.
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2 pointsHydro pedal peg welded onto frame, front welds beefed up, prepped, primed. Also have 1st coat of finish paint on it. So barring bumps in road, should have a rolling chassis this weekend as planned.
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2 pointsA wire wheel is not enough, you have to acid prep rust to kill it. Then prime it. A guy at work suggested using old fashioned lead for filler...
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2 pointsThe wife says I cant have them all , but if I can get them home before she see them its all good right ?
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2 pointsThanks Thor27. Nice of you to notice Seriously, I was gonna wait until I had the Cam straightened out but I have a lot of time it getting this thing cleaned up, primed, painted and axles polished. I spent close to an hour with steel brush, brass brush and emory wheel to polish the axle shafts. They were less than appealing and one side required the 10 ton puller to break the hub free, I plan on having this tractor until I no longer am around and want to be able to get the hubs off without the same struggle in future. So Polished them and when hubs go on, so will anti-seize. As I am not trying to win a show with mine, I am doing my GT14 with black frame and Hydro with Red Body. As opposed to all red. To me, it almost looks like some tractors are dipped in red vat:)
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2 pointsYou have to watch out for low flying planes at Bud's! I shot a video of the ride on Ol Shep. It appears fine on my desktop, but for some reason it played sideways. That's how Youtube recorded it also. I don't see any way to fix it. So here it is. Don't hurt your necks!
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1 pointPretty sure I have the cam block if you need it (if I understand what you describe) send me a PM if you are still looking.
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1 pointSo it sounds like I need to replace the sending unit with one designed for a gauge. Thanks!
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1 pointIf you prep well, hammer and dolly well, then there is should be little need for filler. Older cars had such thick metal that you could work the metal and file your way back to perfection! It was also so much thicker that the welding distortion was far less! Today's vehicles are so thin that those old techniques don't work well! I doubt that "paintless dent repair" would have worked well back then for many of the dents! Perhaps my first tip about autobody filler is to try not to use any! Or at least as little as possible! I've seen it an inch thick or better! It was never meant for that!
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1 pointNo problem Jim. I was just starting to think that bringing Notre Dame into this pool was creating more friction than it's worth. After all it is a Big 10 pool. I really like the Big 10 a lot. Remember.......45 years living in northern Indiana. I'm thinking I need to find Steve and his Rock & Rye. I'm sure he would share and maybe I would chill out some.
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1 pointIf we are talking about teams that SHOULD be in the Big Ten, then by all means keep them in. Or we can only pick teams that are original Big Ten teams, before they became the Big Eleven or Big Thirteen or whatever the hell they have now. It doesn't matter to me whatever gets decided, I will still end up in the middle as in average! PSU, MSU, OSU, Michigan, Wisconsin, Nebraska, Northwestern, and NO-TRE DAME. Thank you John Saunders...hater. Even if they are out can we still pick them?
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1 pointvery nice 520-8!! i wouldn't mind picking up one someday... Also it must be a PAIN to lift the 60inch if its on their lol.
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1 pointI picked up some JB that I plan to use to smooth out some pitting on a deck. I figured it would be hard as steel, which has to be better than bondo on a deck. Glad to hear it worked well. As for removing dents without damaging existing paint, hard to do. In thin sheet metal such as hoods, you might want to check your local business for someone that does "Paintless Dent Removal". These guys work on autos removing hail dents and door dings with special tools and tricks. Cool thing is they do not damage the paint. When done, you can't tell there was a dent. Price is not too bad either. Generally $50 or less for a simple dent. If you're trying to save the paint or patina, this may be the way to go. On thicker material, your only real option is hammer and dolly and repaint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zSz2VpYkn8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhT79ZXU2x4
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1 pointI could see you trying to jump start your truck in the dark with a ratchet strap!
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1 pointIf Notre Dame loses to Clemson this week...I'm all for leaving them in the pool.
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1 pointWOW !! Great find, you don't see many of those 520- 8 speeds. Congrats and thanks for sharing.
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1 pointI talked to Linder last night. She too thinks it best to postpone the event. Right now we are looking at the weekend of Oct 17th. What do you guys think about that? Will that work for you?
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1 pointAfter watching your video a bunch more come up about how to remove squonk--I mean skunk smell!
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1 pointBert, I feel your pain setting up something only to have Mother Nature show her hand! On another note I will not be able to attend this event. Long story short, some side effects from moms meds are playing hell on her kidneys and i dont want to be far from her. Shes been in the hosp 3 times in the last 2 weeks. I was so looking towards this, but mom comes first. Now some of of my coworkers are going. Heads up, if the big fat guy with a corvare shows up, he likes to buy stuff! Hehehe, sucker!
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1 pointYou're right Bob, I got behind filling my sandbags this summer with all the in house downtime I had. But that downtime gave me time to think, and that's never a good thing. I remember when this thread was Big 10 only. Now we're mucking it up adding another non conference team to the mix. You guys are going the wrong way. Even as it was it wasn't truly about just the Big 10 with all those non conference slaughterhouse games at the beginning of the season. If you want to tighten this thing up and find out who really knows how to pick em, start in week five after the non con b s over and the real race is on. If you want it to be Big 10 make it Big 10 all the way. Even as it is the Notre Dame picks shouldn't count if they aren't Big 10 games, just sayin". Or what the hell, for next year let's add Alabama, that should make some folks happy.
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1 pointHi there, My dad just picked up a Twister, after looking for one for years! Its a beauty. Any ideas where we could find a parts manual? Thanks in advance!