Leaderboard

So I'm the proud new owner of a new D series, D160 I believe. Its actually a bit of an anomaly to me. The guy who sold it to me said it was a D180. After looking at the engine model its an Onan BF-ms/3268f. I see it is a 16hp and the tractor model 71-160s01-13089 says its a c series but as you can tell it is most certainly a D. Any pros and cons about the engine trans I have in this tractor? Also it is not running, I know its a bit of a gamble but the deck the 3 point and the fact that he said it ran and had good working hydraulics this spring then lost spark gives me hope!! Anyways I wanted to see what thoughts you all had on this tractor, its not my first wheel horse I currently have a 314-8 and my dad has a 1974 c-10. Love these machines they even built our little C series like tanks!! Excited to see what this one will do. Also anyone from the Michigan area have a recommendation on a repair guy that might have some knowledge in wheel horses specifically. And no worries I added a little tractor porn to hopefully help get some responses lol

Well after selling off every wheel horse I had and switching over to the green machine, I had to find another and here it is. A bargain at $300.00. Boy have I missed these red machines.

Nothing but clouds and rain here! I would have just been happy to see it for a few seconds. The only thing I shot this weekend was an aggressive pit bull chasing me across my front yard when we went to leave for church.

Yes, the hood was painted RED. I think she is going to work on painting the entire tractor this winter. [/U Right now this is the only photo I have of the parade. We are staged in the line-up. 11 drivers and 1 rider.

Welcome back to the flock. as the Holy Father was departing I think he offered Papal Forgiveness for those who have gone astray but have repented, welcome back

Cut the exhaust pipe off right at the 45° nipple. Then with a cold chisel and hammer, cave the pipe in right at the exhaust port. It will come loose and then you can chase the threads with a 1" x 11 1/2 NPT tap.

Thought you were all done

WHO?

Throughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!

I came across a pair of 24x12x12 turfs in my shed while putting away all the pool stuff. Decided to see what they look like on my B100. Before: After: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

His message was all about the hope and redemption... so I guess, yeah...you're little green transgression has already been forgiven. Three Hail Mary's, three Our Fathers, and have yourself a nice day.

Put the duals on your parade horse and leave the singles on the workers. If you want more traction, load the tires, add wheel weights, ags, and dual link chains.

I pretty much quit working on it this summer. It's just too hot and humid. Last winter I had far too many other projects going to spend much time on the 400. Besides working out there I was having gloss paint dry dull. The wheels gave me fits. All I can think of is the heat and humidity was messing with the paint. We had a couple better days and I was finally able to finish them and get her back on all fours. The hood shouldn't take a whole lot more body work. The motor runs fine but the PO put a tapered crankshaft in it and welded the pulley. I'll be grinding that off and installing the right crankshaft. I'll go ahead and rebuild the carb while I have it apart and I'll also tap the exhaust port. This WILL get finished this winter and then it's on to a 500 Special.

If your not planning on taking the engine out anytime soon, remove the old crappy connector and solder and shrink wrap the connections. Also, the fuse block next to the battery is a huge problem area. I recommend removing the fuse block and soldering and shrink wrapping all the connections to inline sealed fuse terminals. I would also check the connections to the regulator, starter, & coil. Most homeowner bypasses are not checking/caring for the condition of the connector or fuse block. Yes, as stated by mikekot3, the connector is readily available. Might not be a bad idea to to buy a couple cans of CRC Electrical cleaner and pull the connectors from every terminal including safety interlocks and clean them. I also pack these connectors full of CRC Di-Electric grease to keep these problems from ever happening. I know, I go over board but I never have issues again. Here is an example of what I just finished on a 520H:

I'm bailing too...if it rains. Just sayin'...get your own coffee.

Might consider wearing something a bit safer in there...

RESULTS FOR WEEK # 4 ALL BIG TEN TEAMS AND ND WON EXCEPT PURDUE & MARYLAND 15 WINS AND 0 LOSSES...RACINBOB, SQUONK, BRRLY1, HORSEFIXER, BITTEN 14 WINS AND 1 LOSS........PAPAGLIDE, JACKHAMMER 13 WINS AND 2 LOSSES...HODGE71 12 WINS AND 3 LOSSES...STEVASAURUS 11 WINS AND 4 LOSSES...JIMD, KOEN, RMCIII RESULTS AFTER 59 GAMES 53 WINS AND 6 LOSSES....RACINBOB 52 WINS AND 7 LOSSES....HORSEFIXER 51 WINS AND 8 LOSSES....BITTEN 50 WINS AND 9 LOSSES....BRRLY1 47 WINS AND 12 LOSSES..HODGE71 46 WINS AND 13 LOSSES..SQUONK, JACKHAMMER 44 WINS AND 15 LOSSES..STEVASAURUS, PAPAGLIDE, RMCIII 42 WINS AND 17 LOSSES..JIMD 40 WINS AND 19 LOSSES..KOEN

Don't forget, some picts of the super, blood moon, eclipse tonight.

Here are some shots of the 520 tires. Two inch wheel spacers from http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Parts%20Catalog/Cub%20Cadet%20Parts%20Dual%20Wheel%20Spacers.htm These wheels came from a 94 Craftsman. They did not have the correct offset, hence the spacers. It widens the track just slightly, which help swith stability on some of the hills and slopes I have to deal with. You can see some of the hills in the last pic. I will post a separate topic on the craftsman setup after I get some pics/vid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MY WHEEL HORSE WILL NOT MELT IF IT GETS WET, BUT IT WILL NOT FLOAT ALSO.

All the green is gone!

Good lookin' machine... thanks for not including the green thing.

What happened to geno?

I am in , already told the wife we are taking the camper and heading out , and its her birthday that weekend to

This is the way I have done it many times.Since a pipe tap is a little expensive, I just chase the threads with a new nipple coated with anti-seize.

I've had pretty good luck removing them by running the engine so it gets hot and then using a large pipe wrench to twist them out. You can try that but yours looks rusted in there good so it may not work. If it doesn't, Paul gave you the best way to get out the rusted nipple. You can also cut the nipple length wise from the inside with a hack saw blade before caving it in with a chisel. Just face the blade teeth away from the engine so the chips are pulled out when cutting.

Check the usual stuff outside the transmission first. Make sure the hubs are tight on the axles and not slipping. Pull off the hubs and check the key ways and wood ruff keys. Take off the belt guard and check the belt for wear, and check and clean the pulleys (with mineral spirits). I would say that you can expect a certain amount of your 1st issue just because these horses are belt driven and there is some natural slack because of that and the tension pulley. Your 2nd issue is more concerting. Anything that is worn or broke inside the transmission could cause the hollow knock. A broken tooth on an axle gear or (like I had one time) a 1533 bearing that had let loose a couple of the 1/4" steel balls from the race and they are getting popped around the trans case when they get picked up by a gear. What ever it is...it is fixable. Check the things above 1st...but it sounds like you may want to open the transmission anyway. If something is wrong like I stated in the trans, you could do more damage by driving it around. You should have the #5053 transmission...not hard to go into and put back together. Here is a link with some videos, maybe you can spot something that is making your noise. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/25103-5085-trans-rebuild-videos-pics/

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time trying to fix the solenoid. For $20, any auto parts store can hook you up with a new one. I just ask for one for a 1980 Ford...it is heavy duty and will outlast you.

Weather said, a bunch of the country wouldn't be able to see it... so, I grabbed the camera and uploaded a few here for all to see.

When needle bearings go bad stuff happens like this

Thanks Craig .. All clouds here so I watched the Broncos kick the Lions around.

That's a good lookin D-160 for sure.

For more info, click here. http://www.wheelhorsecc.com/

Biglerville PA at the end of June. It's about 20 min north of Gettysburg

...or Geno even.

i dont know if you have ever done any soldering, but when I finally moved up from my little consumer grade $100 weller soldering iron to my $500 JBC semi-pro soldering station I felt like a total pro at this stuff. I was soldering TQFP (read: TINY) parts like a machine. All that to say, contrary to the popular golf belief, sometimes it IS the equipment that's holding you back. I have heard that in so many things, and its true with the HF welder. My buddy started off with one, and while it work just fine, you will feel like a pro moving to a higher grade machine.

What happened to geno? Its a long story Muz....ask me next time we meet up at a show. Mike.........

I would take the starter off and check out the shaft and gear. It sounds like it may be dirty and hanging up. Don't oil it up. I use some powdered graphite. As far as the fuel you're on the right track by replacing the lines. Make sure fuel is getting to the pump. Then make sure the pump is getting it to the carb. Then attack the carb if you need to.

still in search of a brinly hitch, or a sleeve hitch adapter to play in the field if anyone has a loaner for the day. Thanks Scott and anyone else working to organize this!

What a show!

It does not look like I am going to make it this year. I don't think anyone may make it based on the forecast for Saturday...

Wife and I stepped out And caught it about 90 percent eclipsed. Not due for quite some time to reoccur so figured might as well cross it off the list:-)

I have the tires because I have a gravel driveway with some pretty good size stones. Plus it makes it easier to move it around. I think they are 8" OD and have about a 1 1/2 gap with the scraper bar

How 'bout this "rare "... B-145 Elec-Trak...current(pun)north jersey C/L ad?

I feel your pain! I broke a really big filling a few weeks ago and made an appointment to get it fixed. Got it "refilled" and all was well. 2 weeks later, I was in for a 6 month cleaning and they decide that newly filled tooth needs a crown and the amount the insurance paid on the filling will be deducted for the amount they pay for the crown work! I was upset that they didn't go with the crown in the 1st place, and the fact they knew up-front about the insurance business.

Not only is going to the Dentist a PITA and mouth,, but the billing afterward is a nightmare. I haven't seen a Dentist office in the last 25 yrs' get the Insurance correct. 2 years ago I had to call the Ins. Co. 15 times trying to get reimbursed for a crown. Dentist office kept sending the wrong info. One time they didn't even get my name right. Then after my heart issue, I cant get any dental work done until I'm off plavix. I haven't been to the Dentist in 15 months. 2 month's ago I get a bill for $170 that they can't even tell me what it's for!. All this after I dropped my other Dentist office. He retires and the new doc sends every patient a repeat of there last bill. I question it and they said they sent them to every one. How many patients to question it and just pay it? I thought that was a pretty crappy way of getting to know your new patients and told them so and walked out.

Lookin good, keep the pics coming.

You can make a lift bar. Raise the blade and brace it so it's in the raised position and doesn't hit the front axle. With the lift handle in the raised position, measure the distance between the two mounting holes on the lift and the plow frame. Get a piece of flat stock steel (3/16 or 1/4 thick) and drill 2 holes at the previously measured distance. Connect using grade 8 bolts and lock nuts or weld some pins in those holes to connect it using clips or cotterpins Or, use a piece of chain and connect using bolts. The solid link will allow down pressure by pushing on the handle