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Well it has been a long coupes of days after 27hrs labor my wife gave birth to the newest member of our family. Mom and baby doing great! Future WH nut ...Maxwell Raymond Prondzinski

... the early Fall weather, that is... nearly perfect weather for late September. I could take this all year long. We have not too much rain here in south, central PA recently, but the lawn is still green and growing like crazy. So, after mowing the lawn yesterday, I let my three work horses out to graze. My1995 model 314-8, 1967 model 857, and 1990 520-H are so happy, they went into doing a little rodeo dance as the sun was setting.

Sometime a guys has to do what he has to do! I am presently down to 9 from 24. When they start flowing out the stable doors and into the yard its time to have some intervention. Whats left in the stable is my restored 56, 58, (701 in primer and parts) 702, and 68 Lawn Ranger. 2) 520's and the 417A. One of the 520's will be a loader the other one if for parts. Not Shown is The Senior in my shop and the 520 Snow Chucker.

I generally attempt to avoid domestic chores, but my wife pointed out that one job is Biblical;

I had a great day working on the new to me '95 520. The guy I bought it from swore he 'never used a power washer on it" I believe him. One man's credo is another man's totally disregarded quirk. I blasted the crap out of it today. Also got the stripped transmission plug out, changed all the fluids and filters, fixed the throttle cable, tubed the front tire, vented the belt guard, replaced all the rusted machine screws with stainless, replaced the fuel lines, adjusted the carb... And I bought a new chainsaw, cut up a dozen trees, used the splitter and loader, dried the 520 with a backpack blower (and cleaned the garage when my wife was out...she hates the blower in the garage, but in her absence, the vote was one to zero in favor) Today, I was a power tool GOD!

Some of you will recognize this right away. Decided to make a minor upgrade on my 520H. It was a simple project. I had the Fab shop bend it up and I put in the contours and notches. It's not 100% perfect but close enough for me.

Traded for this over the weekend. A 1985 310-8. I have read a lot of good posts regarding this model tractor and I think that she will fit in fine. I missed having a lower h.p. Wheel Horse since I sold my B80. This is the closest that I could find. I am not sure if I will do the front spindle/ wheel replace thing or not. Any advantages to doing it? After driving it around, I can tell that I like it a lot. I love the red face. I'd the hitch original or just a pretty well fabricated home made one?

I found a deck for my '79 B111 5 miles from home after everyone told me I'd never find one for this model!! It's a '78 model 85-36XR01 and has now been restored (scrape and paint, new belts, new blades) and works fine. I've mowed 3 times with it. Here's what it looked like when I bought it!!!!!!!!

I have had good luck using four pieces of all-thread rod and nuts to align and pull up together.

I am no fool! If photos of me using the backback blower to clean out the garage ever became public... My wife is sweet and charming, but she knows how to use the backhoe, has lots of land in the most remote part of the U.P.... You would NEVER find my body!

Bummer....no pic. I guess we'll all have to take your word for it... . Mike............

HEY! IT COULD MEAN BEER!!!!!!!

Well it made it's maiden voyage without the axles melting off so I must have done a good job packing the bearings. Buffalo to Syracuse.

Congratulations. I see a lot of "nap time" tractor ride duty in your future. It actually works well at 2 in the morning too, but the neighbors don't always agree.

Thank you men! That was it. I tightened the nut a little and it's working well now. Again, Thank you!!

No proof... means __it never happened.

Here's hoping... you drop the hammer... Ed...zilla.

Sounds like... you need a new testiment. .

In my house Hebrew, cause Shenodrink.

Yes, a RD deck will work fine providing it is for a C series or 300/400/500 series WH

Great job!! Looks almost NOS.

Yeah the umm " pancake" type.. Metal tank is installed...ill go get fuel filter in awhile

Yep, no easy way out on the bearings...just good old fashioned, labor intensive fun. If you drain the trans and run about 2 qts of diesel in it for about 15 minutes and then drain, (before you take it apart) it will make for a much nicer, less messy experience.

Tom's a grampa!!!!! Congrats!

Con rod arrived today so hopefully going to get at least some of the motor back together today

Windex works for me

Not the prettiest, but so far, is functioning as should...

Congrats. Enjoy them while they are young, it will go by quickly, and you will miss them when they move out.

lol...I'm out here in the shop right now, trying to build the "guides" for it

hi ROB what is very important is to control the rpm of the shreader ,i did calculate , same as if it would be the engine max rpm 3600 rpm at full I would get rid of the bad engine completely and support the impeller properly with a new shaft and a couple of flange or pillow style bearings and drive it with a vee belt off the engine via a clutch. A shear pin in the new impeller shaft and driven pulley would be a must have. As stated before, the unit needs to be mounted solidly to the tractor frame. I'm only familiar with farm tractor PTO's. I think they're only either 550 or 1000 RPM. What is the rpm of the D and is it fast enough to spin a chipper/chopper? hi RONHATCH basekly This project finally came to the top of my list when I saw the amount of blackberry vines I need to dispose of this fall. I stripped the non running engine down including valve removal. I left the piston in. Added a Vee pulley to the flywheel. Some wheel chocks and spacers to tighten the belt. I know the chipper is turning in reverse....I have put a reverse twist in the belt, and the initial test seems OK. Some concerns are the small size of the flywheel key. I have replaced the aluminum shear key with a steel key. The radial loading on the pulley end may be a problem....time will tell. Keep in mind this chipper is for vines, weeds, and leaves. No wood. very job , similar to what i was building, make shure you control your maximum rpm ,that should be aprox 3600 Easy to do, but the real question is - would the knives and shreader be able to handle that much torque? They do make chippers that run from tractor PTO's but their internal components are much thicker, to withstand the amount of hp/tque. that the tractor will be delivering. Rob hi ROB what is very important is to control the rpm of the shreader ,i did calculate , same as if it would be the engine max rpm 3600 rpm at full I would get rid of the bad engine completely and support the impeller properly with a new shaft and a couple of flange or pillow style bearings and drive it with a vee belt off the engine via a clutch. A shear pin in the new impeller shaft and driven pulley would be a must have. As stated before, the unit needs to be mounted solidly to the tractor frame. I'm only familiar with farm tractor PTO's. I think they're only either 550 or 1000 RPM. What is the rpm of the D and is it fast enough to spin a chipper/c I would get rid of the bad engine completely and support the impeller properly with a new shaft and a couple of flange or pillow style bearings and drive it with a vee belt off the engine via a clutch. A shear pin in the new impeller shaft and driven pulley would be a must have. As stated before, the unit needs to be mounted solidly to the tractor frame. I'm only familiar with farm tractor PTO's. I think they're only either 550 or 1000 RPM. What is the rpm of the D and is it fast enough to spin a chipper/chopper? hi RONHATCH basicaly you can modify any implements by by changing the diameter of your pulley but it is tricky . first i want to avoid using to much rpm and torque on my old D180 ,so i give around 2000 rpm because as you know , it is not new model , also second try to give an rpm of 3600 at the chipper but with my calculation i do rev. it more at 4000 rpm ,my empty crankcase is fill above the crankshaft for cooling ,it has been trouble free, what i don.t like is when you need the chipper for a bit of time ,it does take quite of time to set it up together . MVI_1431.AVI

Jim The 8 hp Kohler is a drop in replacement for the 6 hp techy. I'm pulling my H60 because 1.) the carb always needs to be adjusted and 2.) They are harder to come by than the 8 hp Kohlers. I want to store the original engine while its still in good shape and I want the original engine around should I decide to sell it. I've already found a motor for a good price.

Given the possibility of the balance gears making their own exit hole, and that they don't seem to reduce vibration, I know I will leave them out if I ever do a rebuild. Regardless of why they fail, with no clear benefit, it just seems like a risk I would rather not take

sorry for the lack of updates lately, back to sixth form an all! anway, drive belt is on and as far as i can tell without running the engine all is good, the clutch works as it should. before i run the engine i would like to brace the front of the transaxle and double check everything like the chain tension and alignment. since it is quite a short chain if it was to jump a tooth or something it would definitely break something! thanks for looking callum

Hello guys this is my first post here. This C160 was my grand fathers and i just started the restoration. A nice coat of international red and some new decals. What do you guys think ?

Sorry I am repeating myself, but I DID see this done but I can't get ahold of the guy himself; it was decades ago. I saw a farm equipment guy spray Simple Green (I BELIEVE FULL STRENGTH) all over an area on the machine, then he laid the large decal on the area. He then slid the decal around very freely and precisely positioned it, and then with a plastic spackle blade squeegeed out any air bubbles. It was awesome. Does anyone have any experience doing this?

The tach's are air core and will go to any random place when shut off. However, when you turn the key on it should go to zero. On one of my 520's, the tach suddenly stopped reading and stayed on zero. The problem in that case was the charge fuse had blown (on mine that one was down by the starter). Try taking all the wires off of the tach and cleaning everything up as well, may be a bad connection. Also verify the connection of the wires at the voltage regulator. Cleat

Its fine. Thanks for letting me know.

Thanks for the advice, it is very greatly appreciated. So I cleaned her up a bit the other day and took a few runs around the yard. This guy in low gear feels like it will pull a house down lol. I was tempted to chain it to my van (like a UPS step van but full of tools) and tow it about. So now I think I have a problem that only 12 steps will solve..... A search on craigslist and I found this... I guess i cant upload anymore pics. But I found a 312-8 with 409 hours. Bought it up right away. Best part is I didn't even get in trouble with the old lady Changed the fluids last night and ran a few mowing passes and Im in tractor heaven

Try DuCuts Power Equipment Warehouse for blades

You are right about how tough a is, U Tube is loaded with video evidence of that. The attachments from the late '60s on will pretty much interchange with each other. Exceptions would be for the "D", GT-14 and 520s; Too big for your application. As Steve said a B or C would be a good choice, also a 312, 314 or 316 would be a good worker and decks and plows will be interchangeable. You probably can find the mower blades on Ebay but asking prices on there have been getting a bit crazy. Looking forward to those pictures.

Welcome to Red Square All "C" series attachments will work on your horse. If you are looking to buy another, I would look for a "B" or "C" series so everything you end up getting will work on either horse. Don't know where you are, but we have plenty of shows during the summer where you can find parts and accessories. TORO should have the blade if someone does not pop in here and save you from their prices. Either keep an eye on out for sale section, or place a want ad if you know what it is you want. Enjoy the site. We will help you post pictures.

As long as you're getting the belt to stop you'll be fine. Well, just watch your pant legs, fingers.......

I have been working on it as much as I can ,I got both c160 apart and now I'm in the process of cleaning and painting as you can see by the before and after pictures I'm going as fast as I can, now what I need is a diagram of how to reassemble the 5088 transaxle. does the bolts face left or right on the differential. all the diagrams I have do not show the bolts. And what is the torque specifications for the differential..it not going to be a show piece but it will look like a nice wheel horse.

That is something to consider - Simple Green and Purple Power, etc are potent cleaners and could very easily harm fresh paint. But, a few drops of dawn in water may just be worth a try...

Jack. Here are a couple puctures I found when I got into that power steering piece with the screen. Note the crud. Also I think challanger another xi owner tipped me also. Its worth it to clean. Will be interesting as to what you find. glenn

I apply all of Terry's decals with water/soap. Been doing it since 2009.

You may have seen me riding it... but, I didn't buy it.

Almost finished. Got to add some temporary side and front racks, until I can weld well enough to make permanent racks. I am sore now, I could never be a mechanic, bending over for hours kills my back

an 8hp kohler works perfectly thats whats in mine!

Connie added the finishing touch this morning. Had the rest of the herd out for a little sunshine today so we could sweep out the shed, it's been a beautiful spell of weather here this week.