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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/18/2015 in Posts
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10 points
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8 pointsHad a few of the horses out this afternoon while I was working on a couple others. Here you go... L to R: C-160, C-120 (step-daughters new machine), 520 H, B-80 & D-200. The C-120 has been (poorly) painted orange, and needs to be RED. I told her she has 1 week to make it RED if she wants to drive it in the upcoming parade.
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4 pointsHope this does not offend anyone, but why would Prayer at anytime seem hokie? God wants us to talk with Him and prayer is nothing more than fellowship with the Father who loves us unconditionally! This only adds more fellowship time for me with Him, count me in!!!
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3 points
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3 pointsConnie added the finishing touch this morning. Had the rest of the herd out for a little sunshine today so we could sweep out the shed, it's been a beautiful spell of weather here this week.
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3 pointsWell it's about as close to done as it gets. I've got to repaint the mule drive as I had the front wheels on backwards (actually they've been that way for 20+ years and I put them back on the same wrong way they came off). The wheels being on backwards causes the tire to rub the mule drive when turning full lock left. Oh well, I'll get it painted up and add the final decal. He's a some pics I snapped with my phone. I need to pull it out and take some pics with a real camera! It deserves it!!
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2 pointsPicked up this grubby nasty 417A today. I have no intentions of keeping it and it will be in the classifieds soon, but it was a good deal, not a great deal but a good one. Came with a 48" plow that is in good shape minus the paint and does not have the wear bar ground away like most. Also came with a 42RD deck that seems to have good quiet spindles but has a nasty rot hole . Has WH plastic wheel weights...question...did the plastic weights only come in one size? These seem to stick out really far, but maybe that's how they are. I don't have any to compare them to. It runs but not great, I may have to give the carb a scubbin, the tranny seems fine and the hydraulic lift works. Pics of course..... Mike...........
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2 pointsI think this week is going to separate the men from the Hawkeyes, Irish, Tarheels, Blue Devils, Cornhuskers...that's all I got!!!
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2 pointsI'm sticking with my 1st instinct picks. I have learned the hard way about changing your picks in mid-stream. Besides that...I have had a vision...and this time I did the spin the Rock & Rye bottle...no way I can go against that combination.
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2 points
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2 pointsNOTRE DAME, UNC, South Florida, Michigan, Mich State, Minnesota, Northwestern, Miami, Ohio State, Va Tech, Wisconsin, Western Kentucky, Penn State, Pitt I like quiet.
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2 pointsI flushed the gearbox with diesel, let it sit for a few days and now the gears shift better than my working 300 series. This is a 1979 unit and the sludge buildup must have gummed up the shifting mechanism . Avoided opening the case and the dreaded tear down, it looks like I got out cheap. Thanks for the information, these Wheel horses are tough little units.
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2 pointsWhatever it takes...please keep them coming. Our guy has been feeling down in the dumps lately.
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2 pointsYour belt alignment on PTO pulley looks just like my C-160. The belt should cock in a little but the belt clears the pulley's inner edge like in your picture. Your mule drive looks crooked like it isn't seated properly or bent. Also check the bar the Mule drive tension bolt pushes against. I have seen these bent ,cracked, rotted ect. If that bar is damaged, it will not maintain tension. The belt is skinny because it's being chewed up from alignment issues on the sides. We may need pics of the deck. Is the center spindle straight? And don't let anybody tell you that you have to use a WH belt. I use the blue and green belts for years with no issues. And no sense in investing in an expensive OE belt until the problem is corrected. You have a major alignment issue.
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2 pointsHere she is after a wet sand of wd40 and 600 grit paper. Thinking about sanding to 1000
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2 pointsI gave her a bath tonight after she dried I couldn't wait, I broke out the wd40 and 600 grit paper this was the test Of course I couldn't stop I like it![emoji106]
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1 pointProgress update, rear rims have been sandblasted and primed, hope to paint them this weekend. Drained transmission and got clear water and some gear oil. Pulled from frame and put her on the trans stand and it does not look good Looks pretty rough, about 1/2" of crud in the bottom of the trans, 1533's are not turning, they may clean up. A couple of the gears are chipped. Good think I have a complete rebuild trans on the shelf to use. This one may be a parts trans. And last picture everything stripped from the frame. Have to weld a couple cracks in the trans mounting plate. Enjoy
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1 pointprepare for some a$$ kickin' dunno where but it's gonna be somewhere
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1 pointMy picks for this week are way out on a limb again..... Georgia Tech Yellow Jackets, North Carolina Tar Heels, Maryland Terrapins, Michigan, Michigan State Spartans, Minnesota Golden Gophers, Northwestern Purple People Eaters, Miami Hurricanes, Ohio State cookies, Virginia Tech Hokies, Wisconsin Badgers, I hate this one but I think Western Kentucky is going to pull out a close game, My heart says Penn State Nittany Lions, I hope its able to fix my gut...lol, Finally...... Iowa Hawkeyes
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1 point
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1 pointAt least the Bears d was good a few years ago. Pack's defense hasn't been anything to write home about since 96 Days of Reggie,Gilbert and Leroy!
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1 point
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1 pointSorry I also forgot that I do have a regular website where every tractor is pictured. I have Not added the D-200 as of yet but will soon. You can find us and our contact info at http://articulatedgardentractors.weebly.com
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1 pointHere we go: ND, UNC, Maryland, Michigan, Air Force(they will probably lose, but I have to root for them being prior AF vet), Minnesota, Duke, Miami, Ohio State, VT, Wisconsin, Western Kentucky, Penn St, and of course PITT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! RMC
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1 pointI wouldn't delete the balance gears personally,but I would reccomend getting the shim clearances as close as possible(kohler makes a shim kit for these). Most people probably skip this step and gear failure could be the result.
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1 pointI don't know much about it, but here's what I do know. Back in 2004, it sold for $5499.00. It has a 19hp V-twin Kawasaki engine, and an infinate speed hydrostatic transmission. Unlike many of it's competitors, it had regular bolt on rear wheels. Advertising at the time stated that it could use "classic" attachments. It had some form of tach-a-matic hook up. I'm not sure what you would be using it for, but as a mower it is probably a good unit. As far as ground engaging attachments, I just don't know. Consider what is available for $1500 today and base your decision on that. It's not a Wheel Horse tractor in the classic sense. Toro just put the name "Wheel Horse" on this series for marketing purposes. As far as collectibilty or availabilty of used parts from our group, I think the odds are stacked against you.
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1 pointDino, it's gonna bite the big one for you and your followers. I'm thinking Rob was talking about you. Are you sure you want to follow thru with those picks?? Huh?? Are ya sure, there's a couple I'd think about. Are ya sure??? Lol
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1 pointAny one interested in The Wheel Horse junkies or the Wheel Horse garden Tractor and Parts group the links are posted Below...They are closed groups to keep out spammers and all the un-wanted Bull...all you have to do is ask to join and either Myself (Michael Biser) or Scott Mehlberg will add you to the groups....Be patient when you ask to join..we both work regular jobs and dont have axcess to the computer all the time....Thanks! https://www.facebook.com/groups/WHGTP/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/263966625951/
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1 pointI would use it and keep an eye on leakage by the seals...maybe drain out and replace the oil in the spring. Glad that worked for you.
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1 pointBetter do this while I'm thinking about it, Georgia Tech, ... Illinois, ... South Florida, ... Michigan, ... Michigan State, ... Minnesota, ... Northwestern, ...Nebraska, ... Ohio, ... Virginia Tech, ... Wisconsin, ... Western Kentucky, ... Penn. State, ... Iowa.
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1 pointGuys, I purchased these from VLEDS.com. They have HIGH QUALITY LED light bulbs. There are plenty of cheap brands out there for $10. If that is what you want to do, go for it but you won't likely be satisfied with the results. Light Emitting Diodes are a newer form of lighting but they are taking the industry by storm. Years ago they were so expensive and the light for the dollar wasn't really worth it. However, as incandescent bulbs are being phased out LED's are getting a lot of focused attention and the results are amazing. They operate basically cool to the touch and the output of light vs the electricity that they use is truly amazing. The set I bought has 21 LED's that are 0.5Watt draw each. My quick math says that is drawing less than 11 watts per bulb yet mine cast 510 Lumens. A typical incandescent 1156 casts about 350 Lumens. Glenn mentioned the 50W halogens, they would technically have a higher lumen output but at a cost. I'd be really worried that the heat would melt the lens and the housing even. Plus, you could run nearly 10 of the LED's for the amount of draw on your system. Having said that---these things aren't cheap. A set is $50 but they have a projected lifespan of 5000 hours. If that is even half correct, these are the last headlights that I would need to buy. Also, since I'm the test case already. Please let me use them a few times at night and report about it before any of you buy some. I'll be sure to report back to you on my thoughts once I've tried them in a "real world" environment. What they do in the shop is one thing, what they do in the yard could be another although I hope not!
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1 pointThe photos you provided clearly show that the muel drive is not mounted properly,Take a look at the user manual download that "gwest_ca" has given you. On page 2 you will see how the mule drive should be mounted, do this and your problem will be solved.
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1 point
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1 pointI would try champion spark plug h10c I beleive. Leave the gap alone. Are you running an in line fuel filter?
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1 pointNeed manuals? http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=Tractor+1973+Auto+10hp+Auto&type=downloads_file&sortby=relevancy&page=1 Garry
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1 pointNice Attached is the manual for your mower. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2300-mower-rotary-42in-rd-1977-75-42mr01-tipl-snpdf/ I think your mule drive is not attached to the bracket properly, there is a spring loaded pin that is supposed to go through the slot in the pulley side of the mule and isn't lined up in the photo. It should be saddled into the bracket. Hope this helps.
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1 pointGergia Tecky, Illinois, S Florida Mich, Mich St. Minnesota,N Western, Nebraska, 0HI0 st., Virgina Tech,Wisc, Indiana, Penn St. Pit
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1 point
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1 pointSomeone is going DOWN this weekend! I don't know who yet, but mark word, SOMEONE is going down!
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1 pointUpdate on the meet and greet... 1- Weather forecast looks awesome !! 2- I will have soft drinks and also a keg of adult beverage. 3- For the food I will have hot dogs, hamburgers and chips. The plan for cooking will be as follows: I will have the grill down near the barn and instead of trying to cook all at once and have people not eat everyone can cook your own when you are hungry. I will have plates etc. If you would like to bring something else to grill feel free like a steak etc. 4- If you have a thatcher or aerator, please bring them. 5- If you have something you are looking to sell feel free to bring it I am expecting a decent turn out Saturday. Only rule on stuff for sale is that if you do not sell it you need to drag it home. Please don't leave it here. I will be outside by 8:00am. Out of respect for the neighbors I would like to keep the noise level of the tractors down until after 9 please. Most people are coming after 10 however feel free to come earlier.
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1 pointReally like your lawn tractor , just wondering what size tire on front and rear and are they stock wheels ? I like to put them on mine Thanks
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1 point
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1 pointIt was in "Downloads" under Misc. ; I use mine quite often as a reference to keep myself and others honest! http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2196-chart-wheel-horse-master-model-list-12-pagespdf/ Hope this is what you were looking for.
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1 point
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1 pointI just looked up a gallon of RV antifreeze, weight showed as 8.9 pounds. I remember water is close to that, and jet fuel (kerosene/diesel) is about 8.6 if I remember correctly. It has been 30 years or so though. Brings up the old question: which is heavier, a pound of feathers - or a pound of lead?
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1 pointThanks all for you very nice comments, I'm blushing, lol ! I'm just an old mechanic. I am gonna be a Supporter soon, will get that done shortly and then I can do some more posts ! This 700 WorkHorse is one of my favorites, I did the aluminum grill trick on it , cost maybe 3 or 4 bucks, ( Actually, I'm a cheapskate at heart, hehehehehe)
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1 pointUseage Noun Toro Part# Other Brand Other # Differential Bearing Ball Bearing 1.5"ID 1533 S.O.L. 1-1/8" Axle Needle Bearing 9416 Torrington B-1816 Axle 1 " 1528 B-1616 Brake Shaft (old 1") 1530 B-1612 Brake Closed end 1" 1532 M-16121 Brake Shaft new 3/4 1523 B-1212 Brake Closed end 3/4" 1529 M-12121 Input open 5/8 1508 B-1012 Input Closed end 1531 M-10121 Tiller shaft Bearing 6838 B-2016 Tiller Intermediate shaft 1532 M-16121 Tiller Input Closed 1429 M-12121 Tiller input open 1540 B-128 Seals 3/4 " Brake Shaft 100441 C/R 7410 1" Axle -Old Brake Shaft 1232 C/R 9815 5/8 (.625) Input Shaft 100442 C/R 6105 1-1/8" Axle 100443 C/R 11050 Tiller Shaft 103118 C/R 12330 Sorry about formatting I pasted this from a Excel SS Seal numbers are for Chicago Rawhide (now SKF)