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Personally I believe it is an original motor. I believe a few Clinton B-1290's made it on 1961 models. I have one like it too

I worked in a service station when I was in high school. We had a customer that was his own worst enemy; he was told by a relative that his engine was "varnished up" and that was the reason the lifters were clattering. Rather than coming to us to talk about it he went to the paint store and got a quart of Varnish Remover, do you have any idea how bad an engine smells after running it with that in the crank case! When we pulled the oil pan there was stringy stuff hanging from the oil pump pick-up and globs of gunk everywhere. I wish I had a picture to share with you. After we replaced the engine with a good used one we made him pledge that he would come ask us prior to doing dumb things like that again.

Within reason, them ol' 1277's can make for some beastly machines.

Here are 3 pics of a loader I built for a Case 448 for a friend. I hope my next one turns out as well.

I have to say that this is really a disappointment ! My goal has been to get my 49' Chevy finished and be able to put an RJ in the back and display both at the show. Now I cannot display it there????? I understand not being able to drive around but man that is what is it all about at these shows for me. I love being able to drive around on these tractors but I also think the people like to see these old tractor running and being driven. WELL THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT THE WEEKEND BEFORE I HAVE MY MEET AND GREET WHICH IS ABOUT 20 MINS AWAY FROM KENT. YOU CAN DRIVE AROUND ALL YOU WANT AT MY PLACE AND DRIVE WHATEVER YOU WANT (NO JOHN DEERE THO)

I want to start off by saying I'm a new member, and new to wheel horse family. I own a small tree company, and last year i was looking for a lawn tractor with some guts to skid around some small logs. I did some research, then stumbled across a 704 with a dozer blade and a mower deck. Completely original, down to the air filter by the looks of it. I purchased it for $300. I flushed the gear oil, oil change, spark plug, filter, etc. yesterday I pulled 12' long, 12" diameter logs for near 5hrs. Then my 3 year old son putted it around the back yard, smiling ear to ear. Thing is proving bulletproof, and special. No drop in oil level, and didn't go through a full tank of gas! I think I am posting in the correct place, but I'm learning how to navigate still. my only problem is 3rd gear slips under load, and my break is worn. Both of these were not my doing. I plan to use this horse like a work horse, and fix it as it needs it. Some advice on how to move forward would be great. Thanks, a lot.

The seat is to die for!

I wouldn't have a problem re-using any of those gears and the axles...a good clean up and back on the road!!

Finally had time to pop the diff apart (5 bolts, you would think it would take less than two weeks, yet here we are). And no, I have no plans on popping that spring ring out and making any futile efforts to replace it, all the diff gears look great . Added some more detailed pictures of the gears. Do the gear experts still think all the gears and axles look good enough to reuse? I bought pretty nice spare axles in the spring, but I think the key ways on the existing ones are even nicer. Would you replace them or not (forgot to get pics of the replacements but they have less pitting but JUST slightly more worn key ways. I am just going to order the 1533's from @racinfool40 Mike today if so and try to find some replacement needle bearings.

Making progress on the retrofit. I've completed the base for the new engine. Since the new Command is physically shorter than the original K, I had a local machine shop make me a spacer of sorts with four holes drilled to match the location of the holes on the flywheel. This spacer added 1 1/2" to the overall dimension. Then, I had them drill and tap two more holes so I could bolt on the stock rubber coupler that permits connection to the hydropump. My engine base was a little shy of lining up perfectly, but adding a 1/16' spacer washer under it made up the difference. Once I got it bolted in place, I went to work on making the stock mufflers fit. Took a little head scratching, But really, it was just a matter of measuring the distance I needed from the stub-outs, then cutting and re-threading them so that everything lined up. It's a pretty simple design. This weekend, I'm hoping to finish up the wiring to the engine from the ignition switch and get this thing fired up. Getting kid of pumped! I think it looks really good!

Having a truck from that era thàt looks that good why would you want to hurry? Sit back, wave at everyone with an ear to ear grin and enjoy the ride!

I made mine from another hub. Doubt it will work on what you have left. I think if you score the barrel shaped part where the set screws are (you could use a hand grinder with a metal cutting wheel) and score it parallel to the axle. Maybe score it twice at 180°then use a hammer and a cold chisel in the score marks and it would probably break right down the score line. To get cast iron bathtubs out of houses that's what they do. Score it then hit it with a hammer. It breaks and they haul the pieces out.

Well I made some progress this week in spite of work and family obligations. I managed to get the parts tractor torn down to frame. Degreased it tonight and should be able to get it blasted and primed in next day or two. I will lose a few days next week as I am headed to Indiana. My next step is will be to measure and fit the attach-a-matic brackets. Also take a crack and adding foot pedal hydro control in that has a factory look to it. Then I should be ready to start painting or and I am seriously considering at this point, taking it to have it powder coated. I will probably take it to get it quoted and let price dictate paint or powder coat. At the pace I am going I figure 6-8 weeks to be done with tractor. Looking like an early spring wrap up unless I go powder coat route which may also factor in.

Hard to imagine the day would come... when it's politically incorrect to ride a piece of antique machinery around at an antique machinery show.

My visit to see my grandchildren paid off. I got to spend an afternoon at Chucky Cheese with 4 precious children. One of which I have only seen in pictures for 6. years. I am a very happy grandpa. I also got almost all the transmission parts I needed. I have one gear oñ the way from a RS member. I also got a new shifter. I have new bearings and gasket ordered as well as shifter retaing bolt. And I also have a starter gen kit I received last week. I found a guy through a friend that is removing the broken screws frim the gas tank and will repair the bottom plate and bead blast it. I should be able to pick it up next week.

For years now... I've been wanting one of these ol' Studes... ...and the crustier, the better too.

Sea Foam is good on your cornflakes too!

Cruising the regional CL and came across this picture on the Topeka list -- Says it was an 857 or a Commando 8 with a replacement Predator This is giving me flashback to the K-State B-Ball uniforms back in the late 70's -- Exactly same color scheme (pale pink jerseys with purple shorts) -- Ugly ass uniforms on really good teams

Now, if you can document that jimi hendrix owned it to. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ skys the limit. Glenn

If you decide to go the manual PTO route, you will probably need a drive pulley also as the clutch bolts to it.

I definitely prefer manual. Like Paul I hate the violent engagement. Tilling is one of the times I really liked the manual. Rather than lifting the tiller at the end of each run I would just disengage it and it would raise out of the ground and pull like a trailer as I turned around. It would have bugged me to operate an electric like that.

That's really sweet treehorse. Just about as nice as you'll find and a great price. One of these days I'd like to run across a 704 because that was the second new Wheel Horse my Dad bought when I was 9 years old. I missed where you have already flushed the transmission. You're gonna want to get it really right with what you're planning for it. Once you get a list made up send it to racinfool40. He should have most, if not all, of what you need. Once you're done it will go for another 40+ years.

My Electro 12 was converted to a manual at some point in the past. Manual works just fine is cheaper to buy and cheaper to fix... Also I do not like the sudden almost violent engagement of the electric PTO especially on something like a snowblower

NICE Dhodge! I would never say with any conviction that it's not original nor would I say it is. Who could know for sure unless they actually bought it new. I remember my Dad bringing home our first Wheel Horse. It was a brand new 1960 Suburban 400. That started my addiction at the ripe old age of 5. I sure as heck don't remember the details that always come up in question about what was original. Clintons were big players way back then and very popular. I can't help but believe that Wheel Horse used up their stock in 1960 and who knows if they happened to find a few more so they put them on 61's. Or, maybe an out of box failure for the Kohler and the dealer had a Clinton on his shelf and used it. Growing up a stones throw from the factory we knew many folks that worked there. But it wasn't a hobby then and many of them got a kick out of this young kid who loved playing with little red tractors. During the 60's and 70's who's to say with certainty what was done to them. One factory worker that was just down the road could have opened up a Wheel Horse parts business with all the new parts in his garage. Yup, probably brought home in his lunch box. Many times my Dad would call him seeing if he had something for the 400 and then a 704. Who knows if it was correct for the year but we didn't care at the time. Again Dhodge, I'm certainly not saying your Clinton isn't original but I do know I wouldn't change one thing on your 61. That's one of the finest era correct Wheel Horses I've seen and I love it.

You can download the service manual right here. You're problem is going to be the Hi/2nd gear, part #3523 and the input gear #3522 may be an issue as well. It's a common problem in these transmissions caused by grinding the gears over the years. The nice thing is that they are really simple to work on. Steve's videos are great so definitely take a look at them. Flush the transmission first and then disassemble. Inspect the gears, bearings, etc. to determine what you need then post it here. You'll definitely want to get all new seals for it. Note the pinned information at the top of this section. It has all the info you'll need for the gears and seals. Your 704 has a 5046 transmission. The brake will be a simple fix by either adjusting as Craig mentioned or, if you need new lining Rmaynard has them in the vendor section here. In any case, when it comes to Wheel Horses you definitely came to the right forum for help. Here's a picture of the 3523 gear. In 3rd the inner teeth mesh with the input gear. The left one is a NOS gear and you can see the teeth screaming to be ground off. The one on the right is worn but still usable especially on a non-worker. I'm betting your gear will be worse.

My thoughts are that Toro didn't take the development of the 5xi further because of the way the market was moving. The SCUT market was still a small niche and the ZTR market was just taking off when the 5xi was introduced. Wheel Horse even sold two 1st-Generation ZTR mowers before being bought by Toro. The pricing was high by today's standards for "just" a tractor. It was sold on the International Market as I always enjoy seeing the European 5xi with "hard" tractor cabs and being licensed to travel on the road. I believe the 523Dxi was developed more for Europe than the USA. I do enjoy the way that the 523Dxi sips diesel compared to the Kohler Command Twin appetite for (my choice) premium. But the SCUT and ZTR markets have basically replaced the need for a good GT. A second generation 5xi may have seen additional hydraulics and a 4WD option. There isn't a Category "0" hitch available, although one RS member did fabricate one for his tractor. Lowell used a clevis hitch that I previously had on my 523Dxi, to use as a model to fabricate an improved 5xi clevis hitch that DougL3 mentioned. Last year I installed a Johnny Bucket Universal Sleeve Hitch on the diesel which allows me to use two attachments at the same time. Having only one hydraulic attachment system is another shortcoming. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/51761-new-sleeve-hitch-on-523dxi/#comment-476535 I personally wouldn't buy a new GT if I needed to today. JD is more hype and plastic, and Simplicity has questionable engines. I would try to find a used (or two) 5xi. That said, today's Kubota BX1870 is what the 5xi should have become but even then most consumers move up to the next model of a BX2370. Try to buy a used 5xi-era Kubota 4WD B6100D/HST or a Kubota BX1500 and they are, most of the time, sold before you call. I know, because I have tried a few times. But I have tried a few times with the 523Dxi before finally getting lucky as well.

Its hard to believe its been almost 2years since i rebuilt the suburban. I went over to shop tonight to fix the water lines and i couldn't resist taking it out and mowing around the shop with it still one of my favorite workers even though i keep it on light duty these days

Something has been following me for a while.... It's a 1996 520-H with 414 hours. There's a 48" deck, 2-stage snowthrower, and snow cab in the back too. Needs cosmetic work and a thorough maintenance session, but the price was very good. It shouldn't take a lot to get it back to "like new" condition.

This is what I found for a few hundred. owner told me its a 1966 855

There's a bunch of Stover CT-2 videos on Youtube... might find something there that would help you. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=stover+ct2 Quoted this from the ..."CT-2 running a bit slower" video there... "Did a little work on the governor on the Stover CT2. I replaced the spring with one that was less stiff and as a result, its running much slower now. When it was running faster, I really didnt care for running it. Now that its cruising along slower, I really enjoy running it"

That's all you need Craig! For years our local show has said in the rules no motorized riding around and keep traffic to a minimum. We ignore it and ride all over and no one has ever said anything. The Big Show is relatively small in comparison. Anyway they rent golf carts there mostly for the handicapped but the staff has them and a bunch of gators as well. I have seen more near misses with those carts than I ever see with a tractor.

The 1277 is a great , in spite of the shortcomings it sounds like it is priced right. A wiring diagram can be downloaded here and carburetor kits are easy to come by. I would suggest that you try out the transmission before buying it. Put the front plow against a tree and put it in forward at high RPMs, it should try to bury itself, back up to it and do the same in reverse. If the tranny is good you have found a winner. The starter problem may very well be the ignition switch itself, if that is the case let us know and we can talk about options available to you. to

I hope you are taking very detailed noted on all this. I am sure there will be quite a few D owners tired of sourcing parts for those old K's that will be after you for info!

Ha-ha...thanks to Slammer302, I have a new tractor.. lol herez a little hint....

Perhaps it is a 2-blade 38" width of cut? Model 78215 http://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/mower-deck-assemblies/78215-toro-38-side-discharge-mower-deck-for-260-series-yard-tractors-sn-3900001-3999999-1993/ Garry

their is benefit to having both the manual is cheaper and it is easier to find the electric is convenient and does have a cool factor but is more expensive and a little harder to find. What will your electro 12 be used for?

I hear ya there. I'm in no hurry at all, Its got all the power but speed is not a strong point. Lucky for me I knew that before I bought it..

The 5xi cab is even easier to install but has the the same pieces. Like Mike said, pop the top, remove the doors, I separate the ends from the top frame, and store it in the basement. I did replace the bolts that I need to loosen with stainless steel bolts, and the four bolts that tighten on the floorboards with stainless steel socket head screws. Spend the money on the glass windshield but shop around. It is a generic fit for all of their GT cabs and I got mine from a JD dealer for about 27% off MSRP with free shipping. I found the wiper kit from the supplier to OTC for about $100.00 less as well. I just needed to fabricate two spacers.

First...to What a great looking horse. Love that patina. I'm no xpert on your tranny problem, but I'm sure the Stevasauras tranny guru will chime in and offer some help.

This thread is not to be looked at a "bragging", but maybe will cause some members, to get off the couch and back in shape. That shape can be anything for running, cycling, walking, cross-fit, whatever - just get off the couch YOU CAN DO IT! A LONG TIME AGO, 16 years to be exact, I walked away from becoming a professional Bodybuilder. < THAT is a long story why, but it is also a part of my testimony. Regardless why after 16 years I looked at myself 1 day and thought to myself, it's time for a change. I had let my body completely go. I had not seen the inside of a gym for 16 years. That all changed in late April this year. I decided to go at it 1 more time. This time without all the steroids, growth hormones, pain killers, insulin, diuretics, and whatever else was new at that time of my life. After 4 months here is what the accomplishments are: Started with a 36" waist, now down to 34.5" waist Weight was 230lbs. when I started, now I am 240lbs. That is after losing 10lbs right in the first 3 weeks of training and changing my diet. Jacket size varied between a 46 athletic or 48 tall, now it is 50 athletic Arm size was a soft 16.5" bicep, now it is surging to almost 18". When I walked away from bodybuilding I had a 19.5" arm Body fat was almost 13.5%, now it is down to 10%. The best I ever saw when bodybuilding was under 4% and it may have possibly been under 3%. Still have a ways to go, but feeling like I may be able to see a decently "ripped" physique at the age of 47 without any supplements at all. Just plain ol' dieting and 100% egg white protein powder. I promised myself to wait until 6 months to share any photos so please refrain from asking to "see" until I hit the 6 month mark. So what can this do for me you ask? Well, I thought it may be a positive way to help encourage others to get up and do something that you enjoy doing to help keep you fit. I like to help others with diet suggestions and meal plans. I can also suggest workout plans if that is your "cup of tea", others may have cross-fit experience they can share with the group to help out. Whatever it is, get up, and get going! YOU ONLY GET TO LIVE ONCE< MAKE IT COUNT! I will continue to post updates, and I hope others will chime in and do the same thing. Rob

I have three (1998 518xi, 2000 520xi, and a 1998 523Dxi) and I am happy with all of them. Don't let the lack of power steering be an issue with the 518xi and 520xi. They have a cross between the 520-H steering reduction and regular steering. I pull my Cyclone Rake with the 518 (13' total length!) without a steering issue. Other than the base 518, they have cruise control as well. Because of this Toro equipped them with a mechanical system to automatically lower the speed (7.2 mph in Hi) when turning. You could be potentially thrown off the tractor otherwise! The power steering is a hydraulic system done without a mechanical link so more parts. Not to say I don't like it on the diesel though. It is nice steering with just using the spinner while clearing snow. The tractor portion is virtually bulletproof with normal use. In that regard it is just like a classic Wheel Horse. The Eaton 11 is improved with a Hi-Lo range along with a neutral position handy for pushing it around or even towing. If pushing, it does weigh approximately 1100 pounds bare (add the deck of about 200-300 pounds depending what size) but I can do it. The step-though platform is nice for getting on or off. The attachments go on the same way as a Wheel Horse, some even easier. The engines are what differentiate between the models. Brandon already mentioned the Kawasaki-engined 520Lxi. I don't have one so won't comment. With the three Kohler engined models, I feel the Kohler Command has less issues than an Onan, but more than a Kohler K-series. I would say that these are the most common and readily available. Also easiest to own. With technology improvements comes more technical/fit issues. Kohler recommends that the engine shrouds be removed every 100 hours. The problem is that the engine needs to be pulled from the tractor to gain access. It is four bolts for the engine, two bolts for the driveshaft, electrical connections, and throttle and choke cables. But the engine needs to be pulled vertically because of the oil drain spigot. Most owners don't know this maintenance requirement until they start questioning the oil temperature gauge rising.This is more an engine issue than tractor problem. That said though, the diesel has become my favorite. I bought it with 605 hours and have used it for approximately 20 hours removing snow. I was in the midst of changing over to mow with when I was laid up with a broken ankle. At this point in the season, I'll just put the Winter equipment on again. The diesel does have the potential for being the most expensive to repair if the engine develops any issue. The injector pump, for example, is rather pricey! It does have a water/fuel separator so with normal startup procedures, it should not be an issue. I garage mine in an unheated attached garage but never failed to start last winter. Attachments are out there. They seem to be more readily available today than when I got my first five years ago as these tractors age. Toro also produced a clone tractor for New Holland (black attachments) so they are another source. Good luck in your search!

Quit being an ambulance chaser Mike...... yer 'spose to encourage him to save it!

Yes they did make that differential with cast (I think) cast caps (not turned)...has to do with identifying a year I think. The aluminum ones are fine, just do not hit them hard putting them back together. In the 10 pinion that I did a video on, that trans had a cast on one end and aluminum on the other...no doubt that some one was in there before me. You do not have to change out the bolts, just the nuts...they are the nylon lock nut type...that is why. 5/16" for sure...I am almost positive it is regular thread, not fine. For sure...show us a picture of the spring. It took me awhile, but I finally found that information about the cap types. This is from one of TT's posts some time ago. Posted 8 Jan 2013 · Report post ___________________________________________________________________________________________ The 1257 has the bevel gear differential, which is often considered to be the weakest of all. Some information purely from memory: The 5060 and 5071 have the pinion shaft-mounted brake drum (closest to the axle tube) The 5073 has the brake drum mounted on the countershaft like the newer 8 speeds. The 5060 has aluminum differential end caps and the 5071 & 5073 have iron caps. The 5060 does not have a dipstick but the 5071 and 5073 have dipstick holes at the top rear corner of the right case. The axle lengths for the 10 pinion differential in the 6 speed is 11 3/4" and 12" Given the above information, there should be no mistaken identity of the 5060 or 5071. The 5073 looks similar to the newer 8 speeds on the outside, but some claim identification is possible by counting the differential bolts by removing the dipstick tube and looking through the hole in the case. A 10 pinion differential has 5 through bolts while the 4 and 8 pinion units have 4.

The transmission gears do all look real good. All of the needle bearings will tap out with a good brass or steel punch...some times, I can pop them out with the right size 1/2 drive socket and an extension (put the extension in the socket from the inside...ie...use the back of the socket as an arbor). I have had luck popping out the #1533 bearing with an air chisel...hit the trigger once and she pops right out. They do make a bearing puller that you may be able to buy at someplace like Harbor Freight....we have some threads on the puller. Mike (racinfool40) does have good, used #1533 bearings...and he will sell you one if that is all you need. Send him a PM. Open up that 10 pinion differential, ya big chicken!! Looks like you have the aluminum caps differential. If there is anything that is not good in that trans...it is in the differential. Don't forget to replace those nuts when you put the differential back together.

I'm not sure where this is going to end up but I'm enjoying the ride. Pretty impressive steps for a young fellow! Dennis Thornton

I have the spindle you asked about. Here are a few pics. I am also sending a PM to you with further details. I did get your off-site email to me, and I replied biut got no answer.

Well it's our first show of the year and the GT is going in it's working clothes.... I finally finished the tow frame which makes moving a big trailer very easy - and lazy mark