Leaderboard

I live in a small (700 population) community and this weekend (Friday & Saturday) is a "Town Wide" yard sale. There are about 75-80 different sales going on and folks sent in a list of goodies they would be selling so a map could be made for "out of towners". I saw a drill press listed and was at the guys house before sun-up this morning. I got it or $50 and I know it isn't the world best, but I feel I got a decent deal. I know how everyone wants photos, so here is my new drill press..Oh, the rust is only surface rust and comes off with a little WD-40 and fine grit sand-paper.

I am about ready to outshop the Electro 16. This is part of my project to align the best power and implements and most importantly not have to change implements ever again or have to add subtract wheel weights and chains.!!! ( may need some more wheel weights) The alignment I am looking at is as follows Snow Plow 1 Charger 12 Hydro for speed and lifting blade limited slip transaxle (amazing ability to move snow) Snow Plow 2 C120-8 My back up and used by my neighbor (saves me having to clear his driveway) Blower Electro 16 Was an electro 12 but with manual PTO need the HP for the blower, i prefer manual PTO for a blower to the sudden/violent engagement of electric Grader Blade Charger 10 Waiting addition of hydro lift Tiller C-81-8 Repowered with Magnum 12 can't beat 8 speed for tilling Sweepster C-175 Well used Series 1 motor from a JD317 smokes on start up but for only a couple hours of use each year she will last.... 48" Deck 418A With foot speed control 48" deck C-175-8 Some rough stuff 8 speed has advantages and is a good back up Sickle Bar 753 Converted to 8 speed to better utilize the sickle Trailer hitch 310-8 2" reciever hitch for respotting big trailers has 8" fronts and new ags on the rear also hauls lawn sweeper FEL D200 Also has 5ft finish mower on the 3 point but rarely used for that Maintenance Float molld board plow C141-8 Haven't used the mold board yet May need ags for the C141 Duty Tractor L107 My favorite --hauls her wagon in the summer coal in the winter. Now has studs to make swapping the summer ags for the winter turf with chains easier Restore project Commando 8 Always seems to be deferred

The other stuff is not for your 400 tractor

Copy a picture into Paintbrush and play with it a little...save it and then copy and paste. I know it is not that easy, but pretty close.

With all this farm truck posts going on I thought I would show some final pics of my truck. Was waiting to install the repop front hood emblem and rear reverse light to call it done. Only other thing I "may" do is to have it clear coated but for sure not this year. Ken and I will be dragging our old vintage boats to the next outboard meet in September behind these.

If I were a betting person... I'd say you'll find the number 1-7041 or 1-7241 right here, making it a 69 Charger 10 or Charger 12. More likely the 10. (Tecumseh HH-100 originally) So do you suppose this was "cruise control?"

Bob, I think you may be closer to the truth than I am. I was basing it on the 8 HP Brigs, but they used a starter generator at that time. Sooooooo, hopefully there will be a ghost image of the decal on the steering riser or a transmission ID tag that will tell the truth.

Always glad to see a new member with a project. Based on what I see my guess would be a 1971 800 Special. If we knew what transmission the tractor has we may be able to nail it down. Of course we don't know what changes were made by previous owners, but we can do the best detective work on our little red . As you begin your project please feel free to ask questions; now and then we actually give correct answers! to

Hey John....You could make some post-holes and sell them at the show.

Come on, real guys don't read manuals or instructions!

Absolutely normal. From my 1986 300 & 400 series operator's manual: "Never attempt to shift gears with unit in motion. Severe internal transmission damage may result".

Spent 3.5 hrs. down at the DMV yesterday after work registering the truck. What a nightmare. Thank God for Smart Phones! The time went by pretty quick as I was able to kill the time browsing Craigslist...

Welcome! That will be an excellent first tractor if you get it. Easy to fix, the 8 speeds (or 6, same transmission different name) are indestructable, and worst case scenario if you have trouble with the Tecumseh you can swap in an easy to find kohler. Though there are MANY people on here than run them for a long time with no trouble. The 10 Hp can do a lot of work and is easy on gas!

I've had too many other things to do recently which has meant only occasional progress with this project but here's the update. Painted the shell and was pleased with the way it looks in terms of having rescued all of the detail like the strengthening ribs. Installed the spindles and blades only to discover that one of the blades fouled on the fiberglass where it was too thick in one place so it had to be ground back a little. The geometry of this particular deck is unusual in that the clearance between blade and original metal shell was always tight at this point. Also ground flat areas round the holes drilled through to mount the center pulley and tensioner so that the bolt heads would sit flush with the shell. It took a while to mount all the bits and pieces - surprising how many bits there are on this little deck as it hangs from four mounting points on the tractor, and has two adjustable anti-scalp wheels. Since that photo was taken I've painted the underside of the deck. Why you ask? Well being fiberglass now it really doesn't need painting but aesthetically to my mind it should be red underneath even if you don't see it and its going to get filthy. Hmm, I expect it will stand up to standard use pretty well otherwise I wouldn't have put all this time and effort into it. The previous fiberglass job hadn't been done that well by the PO but it appeared to have served for many years like that before I got it. Obviously if its going to be used on rough ground with stones being whacked against it the fiberglass will get worn away round the sides over time but I'll be cutting a lawn so it shouldn't be a significant issue. Wish I was but I've had other more pressing things to do. Very close now though but it will have to wait for a couple of weeks till I get back from vacation.I'm determined to mow with the A-800 and this deck before the end of the season! Andy

Cool was to show it John. You're right on the no parking brake Jim. You've got some pieces there for a little later tractor deck. The two flat plates and the bracket to the right of the pedal are an early tach-a-matic and the gizmo right and center as well as the pieces just below it are for a late60's mower deck. The little piece just below the brake band rod is the catch for the foot PTO, again, a bit later in the 60's.

for $250 you should be all over that like Oprah on a baked ham! Looks like a well kept tractor I believe that's an old HH100 engine. Solid engine, poor carburetors. Buy a brand new carb off ebay and enjoy!

Loaded up and ready to go and plan to be there between 6 and 7am. Weather looks real good so it should be a pretty good turnout. I'm bringing a 401 to cruise around on, some Homelite 2 stroke powered tools to display and the General post hole digger.

I finally got started on my media blast cabinet. I'm building it out of 1/8 plate. These panels are like our wheel horses very old and built to last. The panels I've used so far are from a 2500 amp switboard. When finished it will have all welded seams. It's 44.5 wide 33.5 deep and 30 high. I'm thinking 15 x 30 for the window. Holes are marked just not cut. It will also be on casters.

I've been using the loader to clear a large area behind my property. The area is full of nasty bushes, huge vines, fallen trees, and large mounds of stubborn dirt. I have worked this little loader so hard and it doesn't seem to care. I don't think I can break it if I tried. Here is a video of Tunaslayet and I moving a huge rock that we pulled out of the mini jungle. I'm not sure what it weighs, but it is seriously heavy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utwPdprSvyE Here we are moving a large mound of stubborn dirt. We probably moved 10-15 yards of dirt in just a few hours (2 evenings after work). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq1whwMtxjE Thanks everyone for the support. Thanks Dennis for the 416-8. It plows like a champ.

Are you saying (or admitting) you once in awhile pull it out of your a$$ like me 953??? Well, not sure I would have said it quite that way, but YES!

Hello folks and thank you for the warm welcome. I will be back over at the boatyard on Tuesday where I wi get lots more of detailed images. I went back overs there today and cleaned up the boat mess I made yesterday ( foam removal is not fun) after that I located some fuel on the yard and filled the tank about 1/2 way couldn't get the starter to work so I manually pulled the old briggs and after sitting in the field for 3 years or so she fired right up. I was not able to engage her drive but on Tuesday when I go back I will make detailed images and show you what kind of mods/rigging are in place. This thing is cool. I have had some vintage cubs and alwAys liked a wheel horse and this one appeared magically out of the weeds and I think wi be a fine little puller for my boats. Have a great wedkend

Are you saying (or admitting) you once in awhile pull it out of your a$$ like me 953???

Please do stop. These are not synchro trannys. I hear you can damage the low/high selector also, when shifting while moving.

Sounds like you are on your way to becoming a proud owner, nice find. to

I have attached the pictures I was emailed. Looks good! Can you get a video of it operating? We can upload it to a free youtube account and link it here.

You never know what KenB may be browsing Craiglist for...he's got a million interests and many hobbies!

I have a C-114 automatic that came from the factory with a c-114 auto decal on one side of the hood and a c-114-8 decal on the other side of the hood. I'm guessing it was built on a hung over Monday or a "I can't wait to get outa here Friday"

Definitely get it. Don'sweat the deck engagement thing. Take lots of pics and ask away with the questions. We all love to help out. Oprah on a baked ham..........

...dry, right up until that ol' tub sinks. Papa's right, them old Chevy's rule Ken.

OK. That would explain why I couldn't figure out how they went on the 400. The parking brake catch is something I just saw on a 657 or 1057, can't remember which. Wasn't sure if it went with the 400, but knew what it was supposed to be.

Thanks for the tips and the laughs guys I am going to try and pick it up this weekend! I'll keep you guys updated!!!

Welcome aboard . I love my 72 , though I don't get as much seat time as I'd like .

Alright, I just got to say it: Ken, your truck looks pretty nice for a Chevy.

If it starts and runs buy it

I've always done it as Craig suggested, but now I'm real curious about graphite products, be it EZ-Slide or: http://www.cleandeck.net/ http://www.wilmargraphite.net/wgshop/en/6-clean-deck I think Row Cropper is on to something from the picture.

there is starring Nigel, Norman(stormin), Chris(Chris sutton) and of course Ian

Quality fabrication.... and

Always like to see well thought out home engineering, thanks for sharing. to

Mike, yes the clutch is a workout, my left leg is going to be bigger than the right! Tonight I buffed out one side of the truck, its lookin good. I've never seen a Long Horn either. I read somewhere that in 1970 they only made 700 or so C30 Long Horns... Tomorrow night I'll buff the other side and then Saturday I'll pull the rear axles to check the brakes and do the wheel cylinders.

Sparky, you had to go and ask Mike for a story; when will you ever learn? But, Mike had a real good story so I guess it's OK. Thanks Mike.

Man you do nice work! I want a loader real bad, I am moving 5T of stone by hand right now.

I'll let you know how my experimentation works out. I am just now beginning my training on negative side power.

Who's that peering thru my back window?

@WHX4 There are several products out there like this, but I would suggest using glazing putty rather than the high build primer. The putty takes about a 1/2 hour to dry, and then you can immediately sand it smooth. Higher quality repairs, and much faster process than what you're planning. Also, I would suggest doing the sand blasting, ultra sonic, then lightly sand blast again. The "brownish" you're seeing is rust forming on the surface. It'll eventually work its way back out in about three years after the restore. I would do the last sandblast, spray them off with air, wipe down with Preps-All, and get them lightly into primer in about 15 minutes time. Then use the glazing putty to fill any small imperfections. That way the rust is gone for good, and the surface is smooth and ready for paint. Just a suggestion. ttps://advanceautopaint.com/shop/usc-red-glazing-putty/ My RJ rims started out like this: And ended up looking like this. That is the same rim and tire as above.

I'd just take the Tractor Supply decal off and call it done......

and just realized that i had not taken any pictures or mowed with it yet , so today was the day. it's an older restoration with a few blemishes , but ran and mowed great the guy i bought it from did not restore it , but had bought it 5-6 years ago as it is. it was his only mower while he had it. he only sold it because he bought a new Cub Cadet with lot's of attachments and his wife said he could only have one riding mower. i think he was about to cry when i drove away with it in my trailer maybe that's why i'm not married

Friday afternoon: decided to strip the remaining parts from the scrap deck then got sidetracked having discovered one spindle was good but the other had seized since I got the deck three years ago. Pressed the bearing out - hmm, doubt you can get these now, its the sealed unit with double D shafts. Managed to get some penetrating oil down into it (same way the wet got in where the seal had worn on the rusted shaft). Eventually got it turning again but its too rough to use and there's play in the shaft - so scrap value only. The cast casing though came in handy when I did finally get round to cutting the matting late in the day with shadows getting long. For those not familiar with using this stuff I thought I'd cover the next stages in more detail. I began by cutting pieces that would overlap each other. Working my way round... Until the whole deck shell had been covered once. Then repeating the process but the pieces were staggered from the first pass so that the overlaps didn't correspond. Stopped at this point and left the matting in the deck shell like this overnight. Day 2: first task was to make a rough sketch plan of the jigsaw as I removed the pieces in reverse order and put them on a pile. Then sanded off the rough bits of the filler paste before masking off.- in the pic below the hinge for the exit flap that a PO had added to the deck needed masking off. Not sure why it was added - to turn it into a recycler perhaps or maybe just to reduce grass being flung over the patio, but whatever the reason I decided it was worth keeping to give it a try. I can always cut it off later if it really isn't needed. Also masked off the mounting holes in the center of the deck and a couple of rust perforations in the sides of the shell before mixing the first batch of resin and catalyst in a clean plastic bucket (below top right) The first step was to coat the shell in resin using a roller with disposable head until the whole underside of the shell was covered. Until the whole shell had been covered. The table I was working on was covered with cardboard - this is a messy business and the card is useful as a surface for 'wetting out' the matting before applying it. There are special metal rollers specifically for the job and I had some to hand but ended up using the paint roller for most of the work when applying the matting. (The special metal rollers are either ribbed along their length or look as though they're made from washers spaced apart by smaller washers - indeed some are actually made just like that.) First layer of matting applied and rolled out to remove any trapped air pockets and work the resin well into the fibers. At this point the resin in the bucket started to set so a second batch was needed. Starting with a clean new bucket is important in that the solidified resin wont stick so you can turn the bucket over and knock it out before using it again to mix a new batch. Here the second layer has been applied together with an additional layer round the edge. The deck was getting quite warm by now from the heat generated as the resin cures which in turn lessens the work time you get as heat speeds up the chemical reaction. It had set perhaps ten minutes after the photo was taken but I left it for an hour or so to cool down and harden fully before the final step. Having cut must of the excess off using a cutting disk in an angle grinder it was finished with with a flap disk in the same. This makes a lot of dust and a mask is a must here. PO used red pigment in the resin he used which is a nice touch in that the underside of the shell wouldn't require painting. The down side is that without pigment you can sort of see through it and pick out any areas which need an extra bit of matting - there were a couple of these thin areas despite my mapping plan which I was able to correct before the resin went off. Anyway, hopefully Sunday will see the spindles removed - they've got to come off before priming the top of the deck and it will be the best one from this deck (one has a bit of a grumble as you spin it) together with the good one from the scrap deck that will end up being used. To be continued.......

Ok the big day has come, out for some pics.

By looking at your picture you have a 73 18 automatic,Rick