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I live in a small (700 population) community and this weekend (Friday & Saturday) is a "Town Wide" yard sale. There are about 75-80 different sales going on and folks sent in a list of goodies they would be selling so a map could be made for "out of towners". I saw a drill press listed and was at the guys house before sun-up this morning. I got it or $50 and I know it isn't the world best, but I feel I got a decent deal. I know how everyone wants photos, so here is my new drill press..Oh, the rust is only surface rust and comes off with a little WD-40 and fine grit sand-paper.

I am about ready to outshop the Electro 16. This is part of my project to align the best power and implements and most importantly not have to change implements ever again or have to add subtract wheel weights and chains.!!! ( may need some more wheel weights) The alignment I am looking at is as follows Snow Plow 1 Charger 12 Hydro for speed and lifting blade limited slip transaxle (amazing ability to move snow) Snow Plow 2 C120-8 My back up and used by my neighbor (saves me having to clear his driveway) Blower Electro 16 Was an electro 12 but with manual PTO need the HP for the blower, i prefer manual PTO for a blower to the sudden/violent engagement of electric Grader Blade Charger 10 Waiting addition of hydro lift Tiller C-81-8 Repowered with Magnum 12 can't beat 8 speed for tilling Sweepster C-175 Well used Series 1 motor from a JD317 smokes on start up but for only a couple hours of use each year she will last.... 48" Deck 418A With foot speed control 48" deck C-175-8 Some rough stuff 8 speed has advantages and is a good back up Sickle Bar 753 Converted to 8 speed to better utilize the sickle Trailer hitch 310-8 2" reciever hitch for respotting big trailers has 8" fronts and new ags on the rear also hauls lawn sweeper FEL D200 Also has 5ft finish mower on the 3 point but rarely used for that Maintenance Float molld board plow C141-8 Haven't used the mold board yet May need ags for the C141 Duty Tractor L107 My favorite --hauls her wagon in the summer coal in the winter. Now has studs to make swapping the summer ags for the winter turf with chains easier Restore project Commando 8 Always seems to be deferred

The other stuff is not for your 400 tractor

Copy a picture into Paintbrush and play with it a little...save it and then copy and paste. I know it is not that easy, but pretty close.

With all this farm truck posts going on I thought I would show some final pics of my truck. Was waiting to install the repop front hood emblem and rear reverse light to call it done. Only other thing I "may" do is to have it clear coated but for sure not this year. Ken and I will be dragging our old vintage boats to the next outboard meet in September behind these.

If I were a betting person... I'd say you'll find the number 1-7041 or 1-7241 right here, making it a 69 Charger 10 or Charger 12. More likely the 10. (Tecumseh HH-100 originally) So do you suppose this was "cruise control?"

Bob, I think you may be closer to the truth than I am. I was basing it on the 8 HP Brigs, but they used a starter generator at that time. Sooooooo, hopefully there will be a ghost image of the decal on the steering riser or a transmission ID tag that will tell the truth.

Always glad to see a new member with a project. Based on what I see my guess would be a 1971 800 Special. If we knew what transmission the tractor has we may be able to nail it down. Of course we don't know what changes were made by previous owners, but we can do the best detective work on our little red . As you begin your project please feel free to ask questions; now and then we actually give correct answers! to

Hey John....You could make some post-holes and sell them at the show.

Come on, real guys don't read manuals or instructions!

Absolutely normal. From my 1986 300 & 400 series operator's manual: "Never attempt to shift gears with unit in motion. Severe internal transmission damage may result".

Spent 3.5 hrs. down at the DMV yesterday after work registering the truck. What a nightmare. Thank God for Smart Phones! The time went by pretty quick as I was able to kill the time browsing Craigslist...

Welcome! That will be an excellent first tractor if you get it. Easy to fix, the 8 speeds (or 6, same transmission different name) are indestructable, and worst case scenario if you have trouble with the Tecumseh you can swap in an easy to find kohler. Though there are MANY people on here than run them for a long time with no trouble. The 10 Hp can do a lot of work and is easy on gas!

I've had too many other things to do recently which has meant only occasional progress with this project but here's the update. Painted the shell and was pleased with the way it looks in terms of having rescued all of the detail like the strengthening ribs. Installed the spindles and blades only to discover that one of the blades fouled on the fiberglass where it was too thick in one place so it had to be ground back a little. The geometry of this particular deck is unusual in that the clearance between blade and original metal shell was always tight at this point. Also ground flat areas round the holes drilled through to mount the center pulley and tensioner so that the bolt heads would sit flush with the shell. It took a while to mount all the bits and pieces - surprising how many bits there are on this little deck as it hangs from four mounting points on the tractor, and has two adjustable anti-scalp wheels. Since that photo was taken I've painted the underside of the deck. Why you ask? Well being fiberglass now it really doesn't need painting but aesthetically to my mind it should be red underneath even if you don't see it and its going to get filthy. Hmm, I expect it will stand up to standard use pretty well otherwise I wouldn't have put all this time and effort into it. The previous fiberglass job hadn't been done that well by the PO but it appeared to have served for many years like that before I got it. Obviously if its going to be used on rough ground with stones being whacked against it the fiberglass will get worn away round the sides over time but I'll be cutting a lawn so it shouldn't be a significant issue. Wish I was but I've had other more pressing things to do. Very close now though but it will have to wait for a couple of weeks till I get back from vacation.I'm determined to mow with the A-800 and this deck before the end of the season! Andy

Cool was to show it John. You're right on the no parking brake Jim. You've got some pieces there for a little later tractor deck. The two flat plates and the bracket to the right of the pedal are an early tach-a-matic and the gizmo right and center as well as the pieces just below it are for a late60's mower deck. The little piece just below the brake band rod is the catch for the foot PTO, again, a bit later in the 60's.

for $250 you should be all over that like Oprah on a baked ham! Looks like a well kept tractor I believe that's an old HH100 engine. Solid engine, poor carburetors. Buy a brand new carb off ebay and enjoy!

Loaded up and ready to go and plan to be there between 6 and 7am. Weather looks real good so it should be a pretty good turnout. I'm bringing a 401 to cruise around on, some Homelite 2 stroke powered tools to display and the General post hole digger.

This thread deals with lack of spark or ignition issues with the P216, P218 and P220 engines used in the late 80s and all 90s tractors originally equipped with the Onan. this would be your 3,4,500 series tractors that typically look like the one below with the Onan twin engine...... Parts of the manuals you will need to diagnose the issue........ testing of these components is also in the demystification guide as well..... typical engine wiring diagram..... Aside from any other issues, the coil and/or module are usually the culprits IF anything needs replacing. I say that IF, because not always are the ignition components faulty. it can be a simple wiring or terminal issue not letting 12 volts to the coil. if any components need replacing here is the part numbers you will need.... Coil Toro Part # 71-6000 Onan Part #166-0761(old part #) superseded by part #541-0522 kit (includes a mounting bracket and 166-0820 coil to mount in the oem location) if you wanted to buy new. If looking for used or nos use the 166-0761 or if you don't care about using the oem looking coil, a 3 ohm Harley coil can be substituted. Module. Toro Part #71-6380, NN10444 (old number) Onan Part #166-0785 (insulator if you need to replace it is 166-0786) rarely do the rotor and condenser need replacing, but if you are after their part numbers here they are...... Rotor Toro Part #71-6010 Onan Part #166-0767 Condenser Toro Part #59-1180 Onan Part #312-0256 ​Places these parts can be purchased (shop around the prices vary big time) http://www.onanparts.com Your Local Toro dealer Ebay (harley coil) check with Boomer a recent new member on the forum as well. I've heard his prices are good. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/user/13637-boomers-influence/ I just threw this together fairly quickly, i would like a few of you guys out there to critique or comment on what i have here. maybe it need some additional input, maybe some stuff needs changing. i put this together in the hopes of helping some new to the world of Onan get one with ignition issues hopefully up and running.

Hello i was wondering if this is a good buy or not? There is a wheel horse raider 10 for sale with a hi lo 6 speed posi rear. Its in good shape and has the mower deck and all. Its for sale for $225. Is this a good buy or should i pass?

This horse was found upside down in a dumpster by my friend(tunaslayet). He brought the oil-covered 312-8 to my house with a crushed hood, broken steering wheel, and crushed center console. The hour meter read around 1000 hours, but the engine ran with little effort and the transmission shifted smoothly. I quickly began disassembling the horse and fixing/replacing any damaged parts. Sourcing a steering wheel proved to be a challenge, so i retrofitted a boat steering wheel which came out great and was very inexpensive. I cleaned up and repainted the entire tractor and freshened it up with throwback redo-your-horse stickers and fresh turfsavers. I initially began to set this up as the mower that it once was, but shifted my focus to creating a front end loader after my friends father hooked me up with a great selection of hydraulic equipment in exchange for a custom cabinet. I quickly found a loader on craigslist in Maine. The loader was properly sized, in great shape, missing most of the hydraulic components, and well built from PF engineering plans. I quickly picked up the required steel and began fabricating. Here is the 312-8 the day I got it. The loader on the day I bought it in ME. It is nested with a Kwikway that my friend (tunaslayet) purchased on the same day. We both sourced loaders in ME and took the road trip from Southeastern MA to pick them up. Very exciting weekend. Initial mock up of the loader on the 312. I sacrificed the attach-a-matic and welded it directly to the frame. I decided to modify the support trusses to allow for better PTO clearance and maintainability. I added a slight bend and welded a support gusset to add strength. The PTO and belts are completely serviceable without removing any components from the loader. The back of the frame is supported by 3/8-16 carriage bolts around the rear axle. The weight box is small, but designed to tightly hold a 220lbs stack of exercise cable weights. The weight box alone adds another 40lbs. Wheel weights will soon be added. Here are all of the loader parts painted and ready for assembly. Upgraded to a 520 swept forward front axle with gear reduction steering (Thanks Dennis!). I used trailer hubs instead of the 520 rims. After countless hours of wire-wheeling, grinding, welding, painting, and day-dreaming, my re-rehabilitated 312 is ready to do work for me. I just had to lift something for fun, so i threw my troybilt commercial walk behind mower in the bucket and took it for a ride. The loader lifted the mower with no effort at all.. I may try to lift my 416-8 for fun. Thanks everyone for the help. -Justin

Now that I'm officially an incurable Horse Head, I realized something after picking up the Suburban 400. I now own an example of every Horse era/decade except the 70s. I suddenly feel compelled to finish the mini collection. 1960, 1980, 1990, 1998 are covered. See what I mean? HOW can I call myself a Wheel Horse nut if there is such a gaping hole in the herd? I already have a C-125, so instead of another B or C, maybe I should be looking into a good 3 or 4 digit model number. Or, maybe a Horse with a name, like a Bronco... That would represent the 70s, disco-style. Hmmmmm

Here it is...pics to follow...Wheel Horse has got to be the best "little" tractor in the world at 50+ with no major rebuild it puts the new tractors on the market to shame (no the new tractors should be ashamed of themselves...their makers too...mere toys). She maintained 7 acres of lawn, snow, gardens and anything you could throw at her for 50 years ****50 YEARS**** once more ****50 yes 50 years**** without a grunt or complaint at a third less hp than the new offerings. For Pete's sake my dad drug a milk tanker semi to the gas station after it failed How Bad A$$ is that. Today even though it could belong to AARP this little horse will leave you in awe.

wow,,,,,,,,,,,,,i couldnt trip over that fine machine......if it was the only other think in the room... congrats

This blade moves very fast from side to side, going to try Saturday to make a youtube of it in action.

The verticals are lighter duty machines that are basically lawn tractors or lawn mowers. I have had issues with the friction clutches on the older verticals. The electric clutch on my vertical 252H works beautifully. The horizontals are heavier duty, more rugged, and considered garden tractors that can handle heavier duty chores like plowing and tilling. A vertical in nice shape like yours is good to have along with a horizontal machine. For plowing, your machine would be too light for me where I live in the North East. I use a D160 that weighs over 1500 pounds with the plow on the front and a large custom made cement block on the back. Basically, if it is a Wheel Horse, they are all good.

Are you saying (or admitting) you once in awhile pull it out of your a$$ like me 953???

I don't think it can be any newer than a 1969 looking at the hood Richard. Chargers and Electros were the automatics those two years

@Cub Den Give us a rear view shot of the transmission and it'll be rather easy.The motor has been replaced, the "battery strap" has been added, and if you give us a clear close up of the right and left sides right below the dashboard, I'd bet you might make out the words "Charger 9". Give us a shot of the rear view of the tranny.

Just called for a "T" time...11:04 next Thursday...August 27.

I'm thinking maybe a 68 Charger. I doubt that the motor indicates anything.

good battery, tires, trans ?.... I see $400 plus

got one pic to post...deck is in very good shape!!!!!

the insulator is most certainly a thermal barrier and not an electrical insulator. The mounting bolts for the ignition module provide the ground connection for the module. The insulator is most likely sandwiched to the module to limit the thermal transfer from the engine block / oil pan into the module body. The flywheel provides some level of heat relief to the module and the insulator delays any "hot soak" when the engine is shut down. Further proof the insulator is used to prevent heat transfer INTO the module is the lack of any silicon grease on the module / insulator. Silicon grease would indicate the designer was interested in extracting heat FROM THE MODULE as in the example given for the GM ignition module.

The Eaton manual says 5 quarts, however that assumes that the pump and the lines to the lift cylinder are drained as well. The only way to get all the oil out is to crack open the lines and vent the system. I changed mine recently and chose not to do this. I just drained the transaxle and replaced the filter. It took about 3.5 quarts when I refilled it. I then started it and let it run a couple of minutes to fill the filter then checked the level with the dipstick. It needed about 2 more ounces to bring it up to the correct level.

I have a similar arrangement with my tractors having certain duties to save being on the ground swapping attachments. It is ironic seeing as Wheel Horse stressed ease of changing attachments in their marketing! Gravely guys do the same thing!

Give it a try you can all ways sell it later. Not a bad price. Enjoy the ride.

Seems like you have every situation covered except.....riding in a parade!! You'll probably have to go out and find another machine for parade duty.. . Mike.........

Thanks I thought it was a little flimsy for a wheel horse guess the wife can put it in her garden

Yes this will be my first wheel horse, I am only 15. Also what do you guys think of the Tecumseh motors in these tractors. Any help appreciated thanks ☺️

Time to play "what's on the table." I still haven't ID'd all of this. Here's what I think so far. Starting top left... one of these rods is the clutch rod, don't know about the other. The foot rests are obvious. Next to the rods is the (backwards) clutch pedal. The shaft/double pulley is for the mower deck PTO. The small "J" rod connects to the brake band. Below that I think is the parking brake lever. Bottom right are the two sides of the idler pulley/clutch/brake band rig. The other stuff I'm not sure of yet. These parts may belong to attachments.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/

Becoming a supporter will solve the pic space problem.

Always like to see well thought out home engineering, thanks for sharing. to

That ugly cart is awesome. A friend of mine had a green one like that for sale at our local steam show. He wanted 60 bucks for it and I offered $25. He said he had that much in 1 tire. Yeah right, He pulled it out of the dump. He aint foolin me! He ended up loading it back in his truck! They are nice to haul goodies in so you don't bang up your nice cart!

I'd rather you finished... your three bears story.

Here you go. The dealer (Weingartz) verified over the phone that the tractor was purchased from them with that configuration. They could not verify if they changed the engine for the customer, or if the tractor came that was from the factory. Their records listed the tractor as a B-100 Automatic, 12HP.

@WHX4 Never have been able to definitively determine what that hole is for, to be honest. It may very well be that the hole was in the rims that happened to be available at the time and had no WH specific purpose.

Been going to show for years but this is the first time I will be bringing stuff plan to bring a couple wheelhorses and a couple full size john deeres but don't know what I need to do any help would be appreciated

I'd just take the Tractor Supply decal off and call it done......

Ok the big day has come, out for some pics.