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Getting ready for a car show for United Way where I DID WORK. It has been a while for me. Hoping to post my last peace of the puzzle soon. Take Care. Gary B.

I'm late to this party but thought everyone would get a laugh out of this garage in Grayling Michigan. All four sides are covered with license plates. [emoji4] Dave Burley Sent from my tractor seat.

Just picked up a 57 Ride away. A few odds and ends and it will be perfect. With that said does anyone have a set of the correct front wheels available?

Well you know this thread needed an update when it was three pages deep! Sorry for the delay, I've been chipping away at it. I got the motor back from the machine shop and luckily everything turned out fine. I have my 6 thousands just like Kohler specs. I worked with the local lawn and garden shop owner and put together the engine. He taught me a few things about the Kohlers I didn't know. We fired it up and ran it on Sat and it runs like a top. I need to get it painted this week. I ordered high temp engine paint from Eastwood but it's a smidge too bright of a red for me compared to the PPG I sprayed. I've been reading a lot about engine painting and most seem to just spray an etch primer or epoxy primer and a top coat or urethane or enamel. I think I'm going to spray the same epoxy/urethane I did the rest of the tractor with. Any thoughts or suggestions? Here's some pics of the progress. I also got the hood/fender wet sanded and polished. I super happy with how well they turned out. Looking forward to getting the engine painted so I can make some real progress on reassembly. Back home... New valves.... Head after coming back from the machine shop.... Head after I got done lapping it on my granite slab.... Engine steam cleaned and ready for reassembly new governor gear in... Compression release on the cam "realigned" Getting close.... Break in time!! Paint all buffed out!! Bob's dash is in! Looks awesome! Brand new 42" RD deck I bought off another member ready to go on...

Half your wish, would look similar to this...

Who's that peering thru my back window?

The biggest made at that time would be a Suburban 550. The tiller would be a pull behind with its own Techie engine, the plow was also available, but you would have to fabricate the backhoe; I would love to see it, that would be sooooooooo cute! Actually the WT-30 for the Suburban was before those pull behind models. It mounted right to the rear of the tractor, used a K-90 and came with a speed reduction kit. more pictures here..... Gallery link The WT-241/WT-242/WT-244 lift bar wouldn't fit in the smaller welded steel slot hitch of the Suburban 400 / 550 / 401. The slot hitch dimensions got a little bigger with the introduction of the two piece unidrive and cast slot hitch in1961 with the 551 and 701.

What a surprise! I received an honor due to this restore. The Tractor Data website decided to use my images of this restore as the example tractor. Pretty cool, indeed. http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/4/7/478-wheel-horse-10hp-photos.html

picked up a 604 on Friday in good shape wrong color but it's been that way for 10yrs. I didn't like the green so changed it to black always wanted to do that to one and figured this one whould look good black. Just have to get #'s on it and a new drive belt , speaking of what # is the belt/size?

Very nice new ...congrats.

The gas tank you're looking for looks like this; The engine should look like this when you complete yours:

So I guess with only one old Lawn Boy setting in my shed, I do NOT have a problem?

Well all the bodywork paid off. The paint turned out fantastic on the fender and hood. It took a long time to get all the dings and dents out of the hood but it paid off! I'm pumped!

Hi everyone! Steve here. I am a newbee Wheel Horse owner. I buought what I believe to be a 1960 Wheel Horse 400 or 550 at an auction 2 weeks ago, It does not have an original engine (has a briggs 5hp). My plan is to restore it so it can be used by my 3 (soon to be 4) grandkids to cruize around our small farm. I found this site after looking around on the web and in a short time have realized there are good people here and great information. So...... Here I go on a the restoration. Getting the steering wheel off proved to be a fun first challange :*****: ! Here are some picsof our project!.

This guy is either braver or stupider than me. Hope this link works video

So... Purchasing the first truck didn't work out. CT. doesn't require a title on vehicles 25 yrs or older but you do you need a past registration to prove continuity of ownership.. Come to find out the owner never registered the truck in the ten yrs he has owned it. He just used a repair plate when he used it and so did the guy before him so that leaves me with zip for paperwork. No thanks, I don't feel like dealing with the nightmares at the DMV.. Now, I just need to try and get my 500 dollar deposit back. Meanwhile, a truck popped up on Craigslist yesterday afternoon and it was really the type of truck I wanted to begin with. Something heavy duty that can haul a bed full of firewood when needed. So what was I to do? Well, I had to go check it out which meant playin hooky today. Oddly it was only 3 miles away from the blue truck. Long story short, I bought this 1970 C30 Long Horn. Its a one owner truck with only 86,000 original miles on it. The owner had his own roofing company and this truck was NEVER left outside over night and it was NEVER driven in the snow. He was the only person to drive it as well. It has ZERO rust on it and I mean ZERO which is amazing for a CT. truck. It has a 350 with a 4 speed with granny gear. It runs and rides real nice. I have all of the original paper work and owners manual. The purchase price new was almost 3800 bucks. The guy really liked this truck and took great care of it, After very little hand polishing today I can tell that the paint will shine real nice on this old girl. What does it need? Well, the whole going over but I do know it has a bad wheel cylinder in the rear, the muffler has a hole in it and it will need a new set of tires soon. When I got off the exit for my house I happened to notice a green Dodge behind me. It followed me right to my driveway. I'm thinkin WTF did I cut this guy off or something? He gets out of his truck and walks up to me and asks... you wanna sell that Long Horn? Nope! I'm sure everyone will like the last pic best!

does Iowa have these chearleaders still?

Brian, The front wheels on the 60" deck are not original. I have one with them and one without. There is a dealer service bulletin instructing dealers to weld them on from about 1989. I've seen lots of different versions of front wheels, and yours are the TALLEST ones I have ever seen. Mine are more like the fixed height oval rollers on the 48" decks. I'm sure your clearance problems are related to those very tall front wheels. Maybe it would slide under if those wheels were dropped all the way down to the ground? I know that some guys drive over, but I have had trouble with the deck spitting forward when I try to drive on, and I worry about doing something stupid in the process like damaging a front tire or snapping off a zerk fitting. It seemed like a great idea when I first heard it, but it just didn't save me any time or effort when I tried it.

@WHX4 There are several products out there like this, but I would suggest using glazing putty rather than the high build primer. The putty takes about a 1/2 hour to dry, and then you can immediately sand it smooth. Higher quality repairs, and much faster process than what you're planning. Also, I would suggest doing the sand blasting, ultra sonic, then lightly sand blast again. The "brownish" you're seeing is rust forming on the surface. It'll eventually work its way back out in about three years after the restore. I would do the last sandblast, spray them off with air, wipe down with Preps-All, and get them lightly into primer in about 15 minutes time. Then use the glazing putty to fill any small imperfections. That way the rust is gone for good, and the surface is smooth and ready for paint. Just a suggestion. ttps://advanceautopaint.com/shop/usc-red-glazing-putty/ My RJ rims started out like this: And ended up looking like this. That is the same rim and tire as above.

Cool Mike. I wasn't sure if you had a usable 3523 gear and I was willing to send him one of mine if it passed the Steve and Mike inspection. I do have an extra input shaft with very good teeth but the shaft itself is scored pretty bad so it wouldn't seal. You've got Ed taken care of so all is good

S

This is a '61 belt guard pictured here... difference was the 1960 version only had the vertical line rolled into it...didn't include horizontal...was the same overall shape though.

For a few days Red?? Who can wait that long with this kind of addiction?!?!? ....You know darn well I am probably going to have finger prints all over them in short order! Can I just put them in the wife's oven to help the process along? I bet that would fly with her real well.... Seriously I should let them dry and get into that tranny...

I think that's backwards.

Work is coming along but not as quickly as i hoped, blasted hot weather has got me jumpin....Did get to work on the front rims a little last night. Found this primer at a big box so going to try it rather than the self etching. Got a coat on and it did ok on some of the smaller pits. 'nother coat tonite with some pics. Funny how the cloride only attacked the outside while the insides are clean!?!?!? By the way I dumped the cloride from them on some pesky weeds...makes a good weed killer!

My 701 came with the dozer blade that seems to be fairly difficult to find. Since my kids and I were having so much fun driving the 701 around I decided to get my feet wet with restoring the blade first. It was in pretty rough shape as you can see. All of the metal had severe pitting. My first idea was to strip it and use primer filler and rattle can paint. I spent about 4 hours wire wheeling the frame rails. Through trial and error this seems to be the most effective method to remove the paint and rust. I had the frame rails stripped and I realized that unless I had it sand blasted that I was never going to be able to get into all of the nooks to remove the rust. I made the decision to take it to a shop to have it sand blasted and powder coated. I decided on powder coating for its tough finish. The only downside is that the pitting is visible through the finish. While I've spent much more on it than I wanted to, I love how it has turned out. I ordered all new 316 grade stainless hardware from fastenal. I got the parts back today and put it back together this afternoon. The last piece I need to get is the wear plate for blade and it will be finished.

Darn! I knew it was your birthday, knew that you knew that no one had made your birthday wish backhoe for it, but for a moment I thought maybe you would make your own dream come true and build one! Then it became my wish to see one! Wouldn't that be NEAT?!? Maybe a good retirement project.lol I'll be following your progress!

Darn! I knew it was your birthday, knew that you knew that no one had made your birthday wish backhoe for it, but for a moment I thought maybe you would make your own dream come true and build one! Then it became my wish to see one! Wouldn't that be NEAT?!? Maybe a good retirement project.lol

What about Southern Cleveland State????? I vote for 15. Any more and we'll need one of those old adding machines with the lever to keep track

Yes Rick had quite the collection. I only got to see the tractors that were auctioned. They were impressive.

Here are pictures of mine. I thought I had a picture of the tires hitting, but I guess not. This is the lift bar and attachomatic hitting, with the deck on the ground with wheels lowered. The lift only has to lift it slightly to get it to lock in. I have since lowered the front rollers, and it isn't as bad, but it isn't easy.

to be continued...ppplayoffs...don't talk about pplayoffs. I want Notre Dame in this. I think it will separate the men from the boys. But just the Big Ten and Notre Dame...after that...it becomes too much to post and keep up with. Having Notre Dame in there, will keep us watching the rest of the teams when it gets down into conference play. I like that. I am going to LaSueur next week...so unless all hell breaks loose about this...Notre Dame is going to be one of the teams we pick this year. Make up our minds by this Saturday...I would like to post the 1st games like this Sunday or Monday...if you don't like it...file a complaint with Brrly1...he will have a process that you have to go through to get your complaint heard...(what did he say Ethel!!!!)...he said Brrly1 would give you a fair hearing and rule on his dissension in good time...sometime before Iowa looses it's 5th game this year....could be October. OMG...it's going to be a fun season. BIG TEN + ND = ????

I have about all the horses and attachments I need or have room for including the loader. The one thing I would really love to have is a backhoe like Wallfish built. Unfortunately I don`t have the welding skills or the patients. John, if you see this you should post up a good picture to have these Newbies and a lot of Oldies drooling all over their `puters!

Steve, As far as how many we have saved who knows.. I have shipped parts all over and Complete transmissions to Massachutes..Texas...North Carolina..New York as well as indiana ohio and Pa... I even had one older fella drive out from New Jersey to my place in North west ohio on a Saturday Morning we re-built his 953 trans he loaded it back up and turn around and drove back to Jersey...The things we do for these little machines is a blast and the people make it fun!!...As far as the 3523 gear that is the biggest problem I have found...for about every 4 I tear down 1 of them gears can be re-used...As they are no longer available new this gear I think is what is going to be the thorn in these transmissions...

Frank, you have certainly posted your inquiry in the right place, in order to get the info you desire; however, it is evident that posting a bit more info will return a more accurate answer. Specifically, How does the engine run, Smoke? Knock? What about the Hydro? While butted up against a fixed object {such as a tree, and without chains} will it spin the rear tires? Are the 3 Point Hitch and Dozer / Snow Plow included? Do you have a deck that is going to be included? How tight is the steering? Ect... Mark.

Nope. The resistance of the LEDs is much higher than an incandescent bulb. If you put the resistor in series with the bulb, then it will add to the total resistance. Wiring a resistor in parallel with the bulb will actually lower the total resistance of the circuit. So, to simulate the resistance of the incandescent 194 or 168 bulb, the resistor is necessary to actually lower the high LED resistance to the lower range of the regular bulb. The formula for this is basically (R1*R2)/(R1+R2). Parallel resistance is always lower than the highest resistance found in the circuit. As a matter of fact, you can simply halve the resistance value of any resistance by putting the same value resistor in parallel. I can't remember the exact values I measured, but the regular 194 bulb had a low resistance of maybe 30 Ohms at 14V. The LED was 5 or 6 times higher than that. It just so happened that a 50 Ohm resistor got the circuit down to the necessary 30 Ohms or whatever I needed to match the 194 bulb from the 180-ish of the LED. I don't think it monitors the filament. I think it simply senses changes in the resistance of the total circuit. So, with the LED in place without a parallel resistor, the module was getting a really high resistance and "thought" that the sensor associated with that indicator bulb was tripping. Specifically, the oil pressure warning light was flashing--like there was a problem... it was actually the resistance of the LED that caused this condition.

Plastiguage will only tell you how much clearance you have, it will not tell you which part is worn out. You need to mic the crank and find out if it is in Kohler specs. If it is all you need is a new rod. If it is not in spec you will need to have the crank turned and buy a new .010 under rod.

battery voltage approx 12.6v with engine off 13.8 to 14.5v with engine running full throttle alternator 28 to 50 volts AC with engine at full throttle

I needed blades for a customer's Frontier finishing mower, so after crossing the blade number to an Oregon number, I called Jack's to verify the blades were in stock. After getting assurance from the young lady that the blades were in stock, I placed the order. I got an email not long after stating that the parts were back-ordered...... I called CS and chewed a$$, but to no avail. I will find a new vendor!

"No...green stuff in your shed is definitely a problem... as it's wasting the space for more red items." Actually Craig it is an old shed on "stilts" -- I no longer trust it with anything red -- 25 years ago yeah my 310 stayed in there -- Now, no way!!

That's possible. I'm just going by what the guy who has the repos said because he had both. Do a search and it's pretty much a 50/50 thing. There's really no way to be absolutely certain unless you were there when the tractor was uncrated. Oh wait....that was 55 years ago.....but I don't remember

I like the idea of felt on the straps and even the top of the tank to prevent abrasion. If you are going to use that tank and the outlet is below the carb inlet I would just use maybe a 1/8" street ell on the outlet with filter & fuel cock if desired. The belt guard should have more of a pork chop shape..... will try and post a pic...... RJ guards are close but no cigar.... idler/clutch setup should look somethin like this... Less all the gunk of course!! The bolt you see with the spacer between the idler and input sheave is wht holds the guard on. Ther should also be one on the engine.

1)Drop the guage wheels in the back of the deck all the way down. 2)Turn the front wheels on the tractor all the way to the left 3)Slide the deck under. Not too bad on a concrete floor. Easier if it is on a cardboard or plexiglass slider sheet. 4)Engage the lift arm into the slot on the deck carriage. 5)Use the hydro on the tractor to lift the deck all the way up BEFORE trying to hook the carriage to the attach-o-matic 6)Use a piece of 2x4 as a lever to pry the deck and carriage into place to make the final hook-up of the attach-o-matic I can do this in about three minutes if I have a couple pieces of scrap wood to block up the deck as it goes into the final position

oh boy.....

On your transmission...take a look at the brake band mount on the side plate. If it is vertical, it is a #5003...if it is at a 45 degree angle, it is a #5010. It should be a #5010. Bearings, bronze bearings, seals are available. The axle seals are only available from TORO and are about #18 each. Let's see what you need after you open it up.

Got the carb done last nite, Berrymans worked exceptionally well. Had to modify the float tang a little to get it to work with the new inlet valve. Have to figure out how to "antique" the new filter to get it look right with the rest of the engine. Can't have shiney new parts on it! Hopefully it works and makes the Clinton putt....putt. Hats off to my friend Beef for helping.... works R&D at Kohler Engines. He used to work for Keihin Fuel Systems and is a real carb pro! Better shot of the tranny nos. if it helps anyone in ID it.....

Friday afternoon: decided to strip the remaining parts from the scrap deck then got sidetracked having discovered one spindle was good but the other had seized since I got the deck three years ago. Pressed the bearing out - hmm, doubt you can get these now, its the sealed unit with double D shafts. Managed to get some penetrating oil down into it (same way the wet got in where the seal had worn on the rusted shaft). Eventually got it turning again but its too rough to use and there's play in the shaft - so scrap value only. The cast casing though came in handy when I did finally get round to cutting the matting late in the day with shadows getting long. For those not familiar with using this stuff I thought I'd cover the next stages in more detail. I began by cutting pieces that would overlap each other. Working my way round... Until the whole deck shell had been covered once. Then repeating the process but the pieces were staggered from the first pass so that the overlaps didn't correspond. Stopped at this point and left the matting in the deck shell like this overnight. Day 2: first task was to make a rough sketch plan of the jigsaw as I removed the pieces in reverse order and put them on a pile. Then sanded off the rough bits of the filler paste before masking off.- in the pic below the hinge for the exit flap that a PO had added to the deck needed masking off. Not sure why it was added - to turn it into a recycler perhaps or maybe just to reduce grass being flung over the patio, but whatever the reason I decided it was worth keeping to give it a try. I can always cut it off later if it really isn't needed. Also masked off the mounting holes in the center of the deck and a couple of rust perforations in the sides of the shell before mixing the first batch of resin and catalyst in a clean plastic bucket (below top right) The first step was to coat the shell in resin using a roller with disposable head until the whole underside of the shell was covered. Until the whole shell had been covered. The table I was working on was covered with cardboard - this is a messy business and the card is useful as a surface for 'wetting out' the matting before applying it. There are special metal rollers specifically for the job and I had some to hand but ended up using the paint roller for most of the work when applying the matting. (The special metal rollers are either ribbed along their length or look as though they're made from washers spaced apart by smaller washers - indeed some are actually made just like that.) First layer of matting applied and rolled out to remove any trapped air pockets and work the resin well into the fibers. At this point the resin in the bucket started to set so a second batch was needed. Starting with a clean new bucket is important in that the solidified resin wont stick so you can turn the bucket over and knock it out before using it again to mix a new batch. Here the second layer has been applied together with an additional layer round the edge. The deck was getting quite warm by now from the heat generated as the resin cures which in turn lessens the work time you get as heat speeds up the chemical reaction. It had set perhaps ten minutes after the photo was taken but I left it for an hour or so to cool down and harden fully before the final step. Having cut must of the excess off using a cutting disk in an angle grinder it was finished with with a flap disk in the same. This makes a lot of dust and a mask is a must here. PO used red pigment in the resin he used which is a nice touch in that the underside of the shell wouldn't require painting. The down side is that without pigment you can sort of see through it and pick out any areas which need an extra bit of matting - there were a couple of these thin areas despite my mapping plan which I was able to correct before the resin went off. Anyway, hopefully Sunday will see the spindles removed - they've got to come off before priming the top of the deck and it will be the best one from this deck (one has a bit of a grumble as you spin it) together with the good one from the scrap deck that will end up being used. To be continued.......

That's real puurrttyy!! HAS it ever been run?? :notworthy: