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This little vagrant took up residency under my horse barn. So I fed him some apples and took him for a ride on the 875.

My 701 came with the dozer blade that seems to be fairly difficult to find. Since my kids and I were having so much fun driving the 701 around I decided to get my feet wet with restoring the blade first. It was in pretty rough shape as you can see. All of the metal had severe pitting. My first idea was to strip it and use primer filler and rattle can paint. I spent about 4 hours wire wheeling the frame rails. Through trial and error this seems to be the most effective method to remove the paint and rust. I had the frame rails stripped and I realized that unless I had it sand blasted that I was never going to be able to get into all of the nooks to remove the rust. I made the decision to take it to a shop to have it sand blasted and powder coated. I decided on powder coating for its tough finish. The only downside is that the pitting is visible through the finish. While I've spent much more on it than I wanted to, I love how it has turned out. I ordered all new 316 grade stainless hardware from fastenal. I got the parts back today and put it back together this afternoon. The last piece I need to get is the wear plate for blade and it will be finished.

I'm in the process of rebuilding a 48" deck - about my 5th one! - and thought I'd share a couple fixes I've come up with that are relatively easy to do with common items from around most of our shops. The 'roller' wheels on back and front of the deck really take a beating and after I paid out a pretty hefty sum for new ones -- well I thought I could do something better. This is for the solid wheels that have a white bushing on each end that is almost always worn out. I had a piece of 1/2" schedule 80 PVC around the shop (my air line is run with it) and since it has the 1/2" inside is about 7/8" outside it makes an ideal replacement bushing. I chuck it up in the metal lathe - a wood lathe should do just as well - and trim the outside down to my worn wheels inside diameter for about 3/4-1" and cut it off. Here I measure every opening because of the wear, it will vary from .750 to .800. so I trim off what ever is needed to get a good snug fit. This will leave a slight shoulder similar to the original ones. So if the wheels are worn then the axles are more than likely worn too. I get a piece of 1/2' rod and a piece of sheet metal from the scrap pile and a couple minutes on the drill press and a quick spot weld and I have a new axle. My decks get a lot of abuse on the left side from rubbing against the edge of my concrete driveway where I try to get too close, so on my last couple of rebuilds I added a 'guard', Another piece of 1/2" rod from the pile and another few minutes on the welder and I should have enough protection.

I gave four of them a ride this month! They we're destroying my sisters garden and yard!

Aww shucks...he looks too happy to move. Is he enlarging the basement of the "MAGIC SHED" ?

All such creatures are very susceptible to heavy metal poisoning. Usually delivered through the skin at 36-3800 fpm. Varmint Cong comes to mind:-) FREEZE GOPHER!

OK I know it's not a tractor but didn't know where else to ask. Has anybody ever seen a Wheel Horse push mower. I picked one up Saturday for $10 has a cast deck ,is self propelled (probably gear and chain driven) and has a 3.5 hp tecumseh. if anyony has seen one or knows where I can get some info would be appreciated. Going to try and restore it after all it's still a Horse. Thanks,Tim

When I released him, he was last seen headed South at max speed...around 0.3MPH. If he doesn't stop or change course, He should be in Maryland in 3 days.

Glad to see you stopped by Dennis! The show is just two and a half weeks away! And for those who maybe need this information.... Grounds address: 34605 265th Ave, Le Sueur, Mn Go in Gate #2 and turn left, we're set up next to the machine shed.... usually take up both sides of the road.

Many of us here have run onto the guy that has a car, truck, or Wheel Horse sitting off in the weeds or bushes that they won't sell. Well, fast forward 20 years and:

I am fascinated by the fiberglass hood RJ in the for sale section. I've never even seen a picture of one before, and I realize that only the first 100 or so had the "glass" hood. Could we please start a thread discussing these early, rare tractors? And whipny, would you mind posting some pictures of your fascinating early tractor in this thread? I don't know when we'll get a chance to see one of these super rare horses again.

Friday I had my seven week check-up following spinal surgery and the doctor told me (in the presence of my wife) that I should be able to start doing anything that I normally did prior to the operation. Sooooo, this morning I got a couple hours of quality seat time mowing the lawn. Came back in the house singing " Back in the saddle again", the wife said I don't sing as well as Gene Autry but she was glad to see me so happy. I start Physical Therapy Monday and should be able to get back out in the barn to give the rest of the herd a little attention very soon.

You didn't waste my time, we all enjoy presenting our opinion and sharing information, but in the end it is yours to do with as you please. If you know she is about to blow PLEASE grab a video camera and post it here.

Ultimately, this round went to the C-125 Auto. The C-175 I looked at was priced at six bucks, and it needed valve adjustments and other maintenance on an 1180 hour engine. I didn't like the hydro lift on it either--it seemed annoyingly slow. The C-125 Auto has 1081 hours on it, and it has manual lift with a Sundstrand hydro. The K301 engine runs well, but needs a new carb float. The hydro is very strong. And, it only cost me a buck twenty-five. So, I felt more comfortable dealing with the minor issues of the C-125 than I did the C-175...especially for the price. I think the 12hp K301 will be able to handle things nicely, and since I was planning on using it as a grader, the manual lift with repeatable/adjustable height will be a plus. I will post some pics later this evening. Thanks for all your input.

I think he's currently... adding a basement to his basement.

Hey Ed...could you do me a favor please... stop by here, pick up his little brother? He wants a ride too.

Hey....wait a minute.....weren't those apples for the Deere?!?!?!?

I hope that was a real long ride Ed or he will be back......Should have put him on a steady diet of lead....... course then his cousins would all move in. Chucks can do some serious damage

Well I removed the shift lever and the set screw. I took some photos and re installed the lever. I got the set screw turned in until the shift lever wouldn't move then backed it off so it was free to move. I took it out for a ride and still have the problem. Since I have never heard anybody on this forum camplain of too many photos, here are some. I don't know how well it shows but there is a flat that can be felt on the side of the ball. What's next?

Wheels & tires going to my tire man to see what can be done. Fronts have had it - ripped sidewalls, and I fear there might be too much damage to the rims to save them. Backs might be salvageable but one won't hold air - goodrich silvertown...... anyone got a source for these I'm all ears as well. drilling & grinding on the recoil tin... recoil studs were twisted off

Got to work on this little gem this weekend and got everything tore down. Got everything bagged and tagged & lots of pics as to how it was. Can't believe my luck as fasteners came out with relative ease. Nothing stripped out or twisted off. Even the sometimes stubborn shift lever dog point set screw backed right out! In an effort to save as much OEM paint I decided not to pressure wash anything as that would have surely blasted alot more paint off. Will have to do it school by hand with regular parts cleaner..lots of crud on the frame rails. The motor really doesn't need to be tore into but I am going to pull the head to check the bore pending availability of a head gasket. The oil that came out was fairly clean. The cylinder head and fin were completely filled with mud dauber nests. but should wire brush up ok. Tranny on the other hand is going to be tore down. Upon getting the shift lever out and pouring out the rally nasty looking gunk in ther I noticed metal shavings ....oh oh... lots of metal particals clinging on the lower shift lever as well. The hubs slid right off but ther does seem to be side slop in the axle bearings or bushings in there. Seals will need to be replaced in the brake & input pulley as well. If anyone has a good source for tranny parts I am all ears. I believe it to be a 5003-5010. Going to get the motor happening before I pull it apart to find out if it's got the ball or needle bearings in it. Going to be a slowww process as this $()&# thing called work keeps interfering with things. Family already asks if I got a bed out in the garage!?!?!? Got the easy stuff done - flywheel cleaned up and ready to go, only part I painted as it don't show anyway, gotta have some rattle can time right? Magnet was real loose and one of the threads were mangled - chased out real nice tho and a few drops of 271 loctite should do. Don't want that bugger to come loose and take out the ignition coil!

Well actually what prompted me to start this thread Mike was I took a little break from mowing this afternoon because it was so hot and the Sun was seriously INTENSE !!! There was not a cloud in the sky, and I had enough of the Sun beating down on me. I got a little bored sitting inside in the AC and thought I would throw something on here about whatI i did last weekend which by the way was even hotter than this weekend. It was so hot that it took two beers to get the old engine off and three beers to put the 14 horse power engine on. Speaking of which, I totally forgot to say our good friend James Blankenship came to my house to help with the project. James is very bright and funny, and I was very thankful for his help and company. See what I mean about it being so hot? I totally forgot to include James in the story which makes me feel bad but I know he understands as he suffers through the same hot Summers as i do LOL. Two or more months of mostly 90 degree plus weather will cook your brain if you stay outside day in and day out year after year, especially as we get older.

Kids can get anything to pull a wheelie!

You've heard... nothing limps like a deere?

Put chains on that bad boy and he will be riding on a TEDAC BUC !!!

Ask someone to take pics in the ER too. (too sick?)

Hannah now has 406 votes, be sure to add yours too. You can vote once a day.

Excellent pictures. Try this...I think I see part of one of the forks chewed up a little also in your 1st 2 photos. Take the shifter back out and use a long screw driver or punch to slide the fork into first gear by hand and then take it for a ride and see if it pops out. This will tell you if it is your shifter along with the face on the fork that may not be engaging the gear all the way. The left hand fork in your picture...you want to slide that down to be in 1st gear. The left fork is 1st and reverse, and slides the fork gear in either direction on the spline shaft to engage the desired gear. Your pictures show your transmission in neutral.

You have a 1989.

I just looked at the C-125 Auto. The tractor pictured was not the tractor I saw. This on has 1015 hours on it with a transplanted seat pan (rear fender). The carb has a fuel leak at the bowl. The battery is shot (not a deal breaker). The choke cable is broken. One of the motor mount positions needs a new rubber grommet. It is actually a 1980 model with the Sundstrand. It can be pushed when off, so I don't know if there is a valve issue with the hydro, or if it is like the Eaton, and that's normal. The engine runs smoothly despite the carb issues, it just won't run at high rpm without flooding out. Other than the rear pan, it is solid. I'm sure it would restore nicely. Im going to meet the C-175 Auto next... Any thoughts?

This is the type I have - 4 of them so far - they are from China and take a few days longer to get here but a price of from $12 to $20 & free ship is hard to beat. Just do a search on the bay for "12v fuel pump" I keep a plastic auxiliary tank off some mower in the scrap yard, kinda squarish for ease of tying down and jury rig it some where on the tractor for test purposes. I'm pretty set on getting one running before I start doing a bunch of work and putting money in one. That hub is pretty bad, ask in the wanted section here on the forum, somebody will probably have one. That axle is pretty whipped also. If you have a mill or know of one, you probably need to bush it - or replace it, probably the best option. The pics are goofy on my 'puter, a few show up every time I open the thread, but most havent opened at all... "best motor" Curious. How come? Dennis, That is the K-341 single cyl 16 hp, it is/was just about the cream of the crop in single cyl Kohlers, seemingly immune to abuse and loads of power - and it sounds wicked cool too

I rebuilt the trans in my RJ58 and it was in worse shape than yours. It's a little noisy but works fine.

About time I came across a good deal. Got this Brinly disc set for $50.00! at a yard sale.

Thanks for the input! I have a buddy with a larger single cylinder kohler he said I could come pick up if I ever need it, maybe having the cub to allow a big block transplant in the future would be a plus too. My soil is a sandy dirt mix and the new garden plot we made this spring is 40x60 and I pulled just 1 rock larger than a golf ball out.

I designed it that way. By making the lever as you suggest, and according to the schematic, it puts the pull wire out front of the lever, and also at an angle on the pivot triangle. It takes more force to operate. The way I have it, there is a straight upwards pull on the release triangle. No wrist action involved. Simply push your hand towards the release lever and grab the adjust lever. I think my design is superior to the schematic , and I am sticking to it.

C-125 for sure

Am I the only one who thought Aerosmith? Glad to hear things are going well! -Nate

I almost fell off my chair laughing when I saw the word LUCAS on the regulator. LOL LOL LOL

My dad said that a couple years ago about one of his horses and its still going Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Finished now

I have finally figured out what the big deal is with our Wheel Horse tractors, and why we can't get enough seat time. They are intoxicating... Seriously, the exhaust that they produce is strategically placed right in our faces by the engineers... they all seem to exhaust so the perfect fresh air/exhaust mixture gets to our nostrils at exactly the right moment--for maximum effect. We are literally high on our Horses! That's my theory anyway.

Horse power isn't a big deal...Most find the 8 speed better for tilling. Low range first gear sit back and enjoy the ride.

You better stop all this working crap and get on to the restoration of that 1054 with the Johnson loader Tony. I want to see pictures!

What are you doing here? GET OUT TO THE BARN!

Ok I just bought a 1967 877 for my son and I too retore... I have no idea where to start? Any pics or information would be greatly appreciated ., It has the 8 horse kohler and mowing deck runs great still

It breaks the ice into smaller chunks.

Lol! I know! Right? I guess I'm a little younger and quicker than Bob. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Awright there buckaroo, who you callin' old and slow? All seriousness aside, that's a nice tractor. However, I have never seen a B-100 with a seat safety switch. It's not on the wiring diagram, and of the 4, not 35 B-100's that I have owned, there wasn't one on any of them. Also, lights were optional, so if the previous owner added lights, maybe he also added a safety switch.

That looks like a good old b100 and that deck looks like it just getting broke in !!! Lol Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

You need to get yourself one of these... http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/ then, you'll have no problems posting your picts here.