Leaderboard

I think you are right...how can you not look good with these little guys? They already called "dibs" on the back seat riding to the beach with grandpa and grandma next month.

Sometimes there is nothing more soothing than the putter of a Wheel Horse. Some people just don't understand.... IMG_5387.MOV

Getting to be that time of year again. Who's thinking about going to Pioneer Power this year? @joebob @prondzy @Shynon @wheelhorseman1000 @stevasaurus @ol550 @rydogg @Terry M @dclarke @Martin @Operator Show dates this year are August 28-30, at the usual Le Sueur Pioneer Power showgrounds. If there are any new comers this year, I've got some picture maps that have helped some other newbies find our little Wheel Horse gathering at this incredibly large show. I'm planning to be there all three days. Anyone interested in coming is welcome, they don't charge exhibitors at the gate. As I understand it there will again be an opportunity to drop a plow in the ground if you're so inclined. Also keep in mind there is a consignment auction on the grounds first thing Friday morning as well, so if you like auctions (and who doesn't ) make sure you're there plenty early to scope it out! If you have any questions about this show, please post them up. This will be our 8th year showing horses here at Le Sueur. Primitive camping is available on site, there is a charge for campers / camping trailers. Any questions about attending, please ask.

I noticed that my horses don't run properly unless the correct liquid is in the beverage holder.

Any shop that would say the BS your shop is telling you I would avoid.What do they think other engines are speced with,a measuring tape?If you can get the necessary tools and have any experiance with machines you could do a satifactory rebuild on what you have.Used engines and alternate replacements can be had for less than a rebuild.You pay your money and takes your choice.Luck,JAinVA

You might want to consider filling these ags for added traction. I prefer turfs and chains for pushing.

The 6 inch wheels were on there for the 37" deck. That deck would hit a tire if used with the 8" wheels, so they shrunk the wheels. I think they presumed not many people would want such a small deck on the higher horsepower machines, so they kept those equipped with 8" wheels.

Would you care to share your serial number info? I have some odds and ends like this quote:"Have seen 953 serials from 62-137 to 62-928 and 32508 to 42159 1054 serials from 42105 to 49725 1054A serials from 49065 to 101637"but I have no sheet listing serials or how they apply Years ago I started to record any serial numbers I came across in a Yahoo manuals Group. Each one went into a searchable Database Table about 8 different ways so the info could be sorted every way possible. It worked great but their new format allows a maximum of 1000 lines and this one was up to 5000 so it takes forever to retrieve the info if it comes up at all. I did keep the info in pdf files as a backup but they are about 500 pages long. After 2 years of this I finally found a way to get the serials for individual models and have been working at copying them to the Red Square files. If you do a search of our files using - 1964 serial numbers any that are completed will show up with a SN in the file name. If you see a sn it is just my way of recording that I have checked that model and have no serials for it yet. I have copied the serials just as I entered them in the Groups. Many serials now have 0's before the number so they have the correct number of digits for that particular year. Left them that way in case the info can be used again to take them to a new level. Of course these 0's were not on the tractor so searching for a serial as decaled won't likely come up on a search. One column in the Groups has all the serials recorded as a 9-digit serial. This was very useful as one could quickly scroll down the list to see what years a particular serial was used. Some years the serials continued into the new model year and others they started over. In 1962 they introduced the 62-xxxx serials for the tractors and A-xxxx for the attachments. The 62-xxxx's were used on the following model years until the decal supply was exhausted. Near the end even the A-xxxx's ended up being used on the tractors. The 1971-74 model numbers on the product used 6 digits. These serial number lists is where I realized the significance of the 6th digit. Subtract 5 from that 6th digit and you get the model year. Very seldom does the 6th digit show up but on the Attachment list the GT-14 tractor for 1973 is model xxxx-8. These were 1972 left over models and surprising how many have shown up. It is not a carved in stone record. Some serials are hard to read off the tractor or attachment and others may be a typo. We all make mistakes but have copy and pasted the info to keep them to a minimum. Garry

The problem is, skeptichorse, once you've been bitten by the Wheel Horse bug... You just want more of them! I started out with a really nice 520-H. It's the Cadillac of the classic 300/400/500 series. There's not much it can't do with its powerful 20HP opposed twin cylinder Onan (some cringe at the mention of that name, but mine is solid) and hydro drive. Then, I was lucky enough to have a 310-8 given to me. I thought that it probably couldn't hang with the 520-H, but surprisingly--that little 10HP Kohler Magnum paired with 8 gears can really hold its own. Especially when pulling. And recently I came across a 522xi and snatched it up. 22HP with power steering and even heavier construction than the 520-H was very enticing. I bought it just because I wanted to see what it could do. It is the epitome of WOW! The bottom line is that it doesn't matter which Wheel Horse you end up with. The one you're sitting on is better than just about anything else you could have bought brand new (especially for the price). They are amazing machines, and from smallest to largest they just get it done. And with THIS FORUM, you will never be at a loss for knowledge and advice. What brand new machine comes with hundreds of experienced owners that can help you with anything related to your tractor? My wife was really upset when I bought a 23-year-old 520-H instead of something new with a warranty. She has seen what I can do with it and now she gets it. The neighbors can't do half of what I can with their brand new big box tractors. One of them even brought their brand new Craftsman over for a friendly pulling contest (I'm sure our kids had something to do with it). He was shocked and embarrassed when his was permanently stuck in reverse no matter what he tried. Since that day, every time I fire up the mighty Onan, at least one of the neighbors is suddenly out on their newer machine, as if to show me up or something. Too funny. I wonder what they are thinking now with the 522xi. But interestingly enough, Since I first bought my 520-H over two years ago, several horses have appeared in the neighborhood--mostly the same 300/400/500 series, but my next door neighbor just got a 1970s B or C series (don't know which one yet) that he got after selling his eXmark. Apparently he has more work to do than just mow. Hopefully I can convert them all and have my own neighborhood WH club !

Okay, here's the update. I purchased a 2014 Tacoma today. Here she is.

Plow some big snow with little power. http:// Hang with the big boys. http:// Impress the judges. http:// Win some awards. http:// Spark creativity. http:// Bring good folks together. http:// Meet famous people. (Don't forget about Bob Hope...if you did your reading) http:// Keep a family well rooted together. http:// Edit----darn it!! spent a little extra time posting this, and the links don't work. Apparently Wheel Horses won't help you be computer literate!!

Great suggestions all about what a wheel horse can do, but nobody has yet mentioned the most important thing of all: Bring a bunch of folks from all over the world together and form lasting friendships. Good luck with your lumber jacking! steve

Another thing a wheel horse can do, that very few (if any), other tractors can do, is set there in the basement (or garage), all shined up, and silently, just look damned good.

Just joined the forum today, and may be kicked out, after this. Here goes. Until a couple weeks ago, I would have never even looked, at a Wheel Horse garden tractor. I was looking to replace my JD 212 with a JD 317 or 318. In the process of looking, for the right deal, the right deal found me. I stumbled upon a Toro Wheel Horse 518xi. Hours had just turned 160. Came with a soft cab that has a real glass front window, wiper, and beacon light. 48" mower deck, 42" single stage snow blower, weights and chains. I picked the entire package up for $1,650.00.. The price was definitely right, the attachments we exactly what I was looking for, and the soft cab was a bonus. So, this was more of a stumbling block I fell over and am glad I did. Photo is of the 518xi.

I am currently looking into pricing to get some pump couplers made up. my question is are any of you out there interested in some as well? I am hoping to get a larger order in to reduce the per unit cost and am willing to pass them on for my cost plus shipping. Please let me know.

Its been three years since I rescued and restored an A-800 with the intention of bringing it home to mow the grass in my garden rather than keep it with the other horses out at the fields and barn. So this...... became this....... A slight custom job in terms of the different fender pan, seat arrangement, and steering wheel. However, two years on and it was still at the barn as I never got round to restoring a deck for it. The one that it came with being basically beyond repair. Almost half of the top of the shell was gone and had been replaced by a plate welded underneath. Probably gave it a few years extra life but by now the sides of the shell were rotting through as well. It would have been a whole lot of work to fab a new shell, particularly if it was to resemble an original. Trouble is that these little decks don't come up that often over here in the UK and when they do they're often not much better than this. I managed to find one that had been fiber-glassed top and bottom and although it was a gamble in terms of what was beneath it, it looked as though most of the strengthening ribs were still in existence - essential if it stood any chance of passing for anything like original after restoration. The fiberglass was difficult to remove and having struggled to get a small patch off, the rest had to be done in small sections along cut lines made with a small cutting disk in an little air powered tool. The fiberglass had held on pretty well despite the rust it had been applied over so it was a lengthy task to remove it all and then de-rust and treat the metal underneath. I left the fiberglass on the top of the shell intact as it was pretty much all that was holding the it in shape at this stage. The good news though was that the ribs that I wanted to save were pretty much intact. The above photo shows I think why welding in new sections was out of the question as most of the metal would have needed cutting away. The next step was to check the alignment of the two pulleys, one of which was out of line where the shell had already given in to belt tension before the last repair had been made. Fortunately there was enough give in what was left now to beat the shell till the pulley alignment was as good as it was going to get. To stabilize the structure, fiberglass paste (resin and chopped glass) was applied with a plastic spreader including filling the reinforcement ribs. With the underside strengthened just enough for now it was time to see what the top of the deck shell was actually like. Not bad really, certainly it could have been far worse. Fiberglass paste was applied over the repair areas then sanded back flush before surface filler is used later. The extent of the rotted away metal can be seen in the next photo - an effect I happened to notice while moving the deck. The underside of the shell will be getting three thicknesses of standard fiberglass matting to provide the necessary strength but not till the weekend as there's other bits to get underway first. I thought it a good idea to take the original deck apart so that the best bits from both could be selected to go to the shop for refurb. Although it looked unlikely that there'd be anything better on this one - there was! The pillar pulley assembly ran much more smoothly as did the idler pulley. Not surprising really as all of the pulleys had been replaced at some point (I seem to recall now the PO of the A-800 mentioning that but I'd forgotten about it.) The belts had obviously been replaced as well and are both OK to use so the original deck did have some useful parts on it after all. More photos to follow soon. The aim is to fiberglass the shell at the weekend so for the moment all the bits and bobs are in the shop being sorted and some now repainted and hanging up to dry. Andy

I picked up a 312-8 yesterday for a song. It has 1200 hours on it and a really nice 48-inch deck with her. The only issues are it needs a bath, new front tires badly, ignigtion switch, and some grass to mow! I don't think $300 was a bad deal for it! One thing that gets me is the 6-inch tires on the front! Why?!?

So, as th title of the thread states... Has anyone completed such a project? I picked up a nice 312-8 yesterday for next to nothing that I was going to use for the engine and 48-inch deck for a 520H roller I've been kicking around the shop and it is way to nice to part out. So, I'm thinking of building a 312-H now. Any thoughts?

The C-121 has a battery ignition. Before you start jumping through hoops, hook the battery up and all the other connections including safety switches if you didn't do so already. Make sure the connectors are clean and not corroded. And your battery needs to be fully charged to make sure that isn't the issue.

I have a beer and watch mine mow the grass - 315-8 has a cup ( beer ) holder put a few in a 5 gallon bucket on ice at the garage so I'm not tramping dirt though the wife's kitchen when it's time for a fresh one .....lol

Oh... hell yeah!

Have a two part question. 1) What is this spring (please see first pic) It was in a box of parts of a 1977 B100 that was overhauled and the owner passed away before putting the engine back on the tractor. I had to reassemble the pto but I have all the parts for it. 2) Where can I get some speed clips? These are used for attaching wiring to the tractor. (please see second pic) Thanks, Todd, New Guy

My issue with shifting is having to back up. Shifting with an 8 speed is much slower than a hydro. If you have long straight runs, it isn't a big issue

Yeah, good luck with that one! Here's what you can expect: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/37762-is-your-kohler-happy/#comment-337126

Read three times and I tried but I'm still lost... How do I search a serial here, on this site? And you have all the WH serials from the Yahoo group? The WheelHorseManuals groups? Maybe I can help? Type this in the Search box 1964 serial numbers or any other model year. Then click on the drop down menu next to the search box and select Files and then click search. Each file name that comes up should have a SN in it. Click on one to see the serials which are just on the file information page. Nothing to download. No I don't have the serial numbers in a format I can use. I go to the Yahoo Group and retrieve them one model number at a time and copy them to the files here. Garry

Will be there all three days, working on a few things for the show, not sure if I will get done. Have to find the sod cutters again this year, also think I will have to find a baseball bat to keep up with Stevasaurus Steve a little correction golf will be on Thursday not Wednesday Can't wait

If the threads are good, just a little pipe joint compound will do. I use the yellow stuff in a tube that is safe for gas and oil. I don't want to use anything that is going to make that plug harder to get out next time I try.

I'll be there all weekend...too far to drive for just one day. It looks like we are going to do the golf thingy on Thursday (the day before the show) this year...because of some commitments on the Monday. Let me know if you want to golf with us. As Tom said in the next thread...Golf on Thursday...not Wednesday. Thanks Tom.

Here is that log splitter attachment...that's Zeek talking with JDogCustoms.

That 953 has had a tough life and needs more love than most of us would want to give it.. The Ross steering gear, hood, headlight buckets and hydraulic pump seem to be the only real valuable items. The trans axle, engine and front axle would have some value if you wanted to bring them to the "Big Show" in June. What is the serial number on the plate above the shift pattern sticker? The only difference between the 1054 and 1054A is the year of manufacture. The numbering system that was used at the time would have had it be a 1055 in 1965 but that was the number being used for the newly introduced short frame square hood model.

They fire both at same time one is on the end of the exhaust stroke and does nothing..hence the term "Wasted"

Have to be able to see them. I have a very nice pellet rifle with laser and red light, scope, etc. but if I can't see a target...... My German Fienwerkbau needs to see the target. Perhaps scarecrows? I mean Feline Scarecats?

I have flipped my 4 wheeler more than once dragging logs, when they would dig in (and they werent as big as what I tested the horse with).. so when I am on the horse my foot is right next to that clutch at ALL times... What surprises me is HOW it pulls... It does need a tug to get them started. I always start in the lowest gear and see if I can get them freed up, but if I need to bump them I will. But the main difference is once they are moving the machine just goes.... and goes and doesnt want to stop. You never even feel like you are dragging anything, it doesnt want to come up on you like the wheeler did. The machine just feels balanced to me for doing this kind of work.

Its funny you mentioned spark creativity... I am already wondering what else I can do with it lol I will admit I was kind of embarrassed bringing my little horse into the woods, when my neighbors drive around 40 HP cubs and deere to do theirs with. and here I am on what looks like a riding mower. But when I went out with my boys to bring in a few more I just chuckled.. and started playing around which made the task more fun. I had another 20+ long log not too big in diameter... I put it in low 1 and once it was out of the woods let my 9 yr old jump on as I walked beside him (for saftey)...should have seen him smile from ear to ear he thought he was the MAN lol, and ofcourse my older boy thought it would be fun to ride on the log...so he sat down and the horse never flinched and he went to a sleigh ride. I plan on doing the seals QUICK...because now that I am using it I am noticing the other side is starting to weep. My deck parts should be in tomorrow and next order is for the seals. I have to wonder now what a good set of tires would be like too... almost scared of how much traction it would get lol Now I need a plow....

4.0L V6, 5 Speed Automatic. Electronic 4-Wheel Drive. Class III/IV, 2" hitch receiver is on order.

Basically When I got it the 8hp Briggs was extremely neglected, mower deck was pretty well rusted! I knew I didn't want to get rid of the machine just because of it. So with that in mind I pulled the tired 8 horse, removed the deck, and built it from what I pictured in my mind! The motor I put on it in place of the tired 8hp, was a flat head Briggs 12hp, I got bored with that lol. One day I came across lawn Mower racing that's when I decided I was going to build a racer out of it! I started doing research on good motors for racing one of the engines on the list was a model. 28 14.5 Ohv Briggs! On day my friend calls me up and says I've got another motor for the horse! When he got home from work that evening I went I looked at this engine! It was indeed a 14.5 horse Ohv! He said (my friend) I have no use for it, 40.00 and it's yours! Bam, I bought it, it had clean oil, the engine was super clean for a 1990 model, months later I built the engine! I'll I'm getting tired of typing now lol so I'll upload pics of the engine build! I build the tractor to have fun and simply recycle a cool piece of machinery!

Some incredible work there... saving that deck.

I was going to ask, What part of Maine? My dad was from Madawaska and we would go up there every year. My Uncle had a camp on Long Lake. Sparky, you need some Playtex Living Gloves. You can fish,do dishes and pick up a dime with them. I think they are insulated so you can use them for work!

it says,its better to beat a dead horse,,,,,, than ride a banana.... did i get it ??????? lolololololo

I put a HF winch on my 312-8 and have the grader blade on the regular lift.

Yes, the book is worth it. But realize that there is not much information for the '80s. And nothing for the Toro years.

" Any Crapsman can do that" But for how long? 40 years? I doubt it.

Thanks for the kind words everyone! It will be on light work since my mowing is currently handled by my walk behind. It will trade off lawn sweeping with the 854 and it will have tiller, grader, and snow plow duties along with wood chipper (if i ever get that running). Should keep the hours low! Oh and it gets a cozy spot in the garage instead of the shed... probably with its own blanket!

Two clothes pins work on my Electro 12. One clothes pin for fast idle two for mowing. A whole lot cheaper than a new cable. Cheap cruise control (I use the same setup on My M37's hand throttle to keep her at fast idle for warming up)

The 62-series of serial numbers started in 1962. 1962 tractor serial numbers recorded so far range from 62-01104 to 62-21125 Your 702 serial 62-04216 lands in the 4th of 16 batches of 702's recorded so far and that batch ranges from 62-03298 to 62-05608 (I have added a zero to the 4-digit numbers so the database can handle them) The 1962 attachments used an A-series serial and range from A-01387 to A-26964 The 1963 attachments used an A-series serial and range from A-27183 to A-55713 They still had 62-Series decals left so continued to use them in 1963 on the tractors. The 1st were on a 1st of 4 batches of 953's and range from 62-00137 to 62-00928 The next 1963 tractor serials range from 62-20610 to 62-25718 and guess they ran out of them before serial 26210 which is next. The highest recored so far is 47957 for a 1963 tractor. In 1964 there were still A-series decals left so they were used on both the tractor and attachments now. The 1964 serials recorded so far start at A-50086 and run to A-75181. Next 1964 serial is 03301 and runs to 48689. Next are the 1054's that range 48732 to 49725 in the 3rd batch of 3 and the last for 1964 Next is a 1965 1054A with serial 49065 Now more 1054A's ranging from 49533 to 50366 in the 1st of 2 batches. These last 3 lines show a discrepancy. It appears the 1054's and 1054A's were built back to back and few owners know which model they have. This is from a small sample of approx. 4500 serial numbers. The number of units they built is staggering. Some of the recorded numbers I have could have been read wrong, hard to read and always the chance of a typo even with me. I think the way it happened was once they had enough parts to build x number of a model of tractor they issued a serial number for each in that batch. That batch then went into production. Later on they included the build date with the serial numbers in the batch. That's when you start to see the build dates in progressive order but the batches of serials are not progressive. They are progressive within the batch. Perhaps the serials were assigned to a batch before all the parts were available and when they did come in the build date was added. Garry

I don't remember his name but I talked with him a bit at the Le Sueur Minnesota show, he has a very nice collection and I remember the trailer which was filled with signage on the walls. All of his tractors were in very good or restored condition here are a couple pictures from last years show. I am sure Jason (casual observer) has some pictures and more information about him.

1054 and 1054A both had the wider front tires, and the hydralic lift was standard on both as well as the 953. The reason for the 1054A name was the type of numbering system had going at the time. The 10 stands for 10 HP; the 5 stands for Electric Start; the 4 stands for the Year, 1964 (953 was 9.6 HP, electric start built in 1963). In 1965 the 1055 was introduced, it is a short frame 12" rear wheel model like the 855; to continue the 1054 and keep the numbering system would have caused confusion, sooo, they just added the "A" ps, if it was a hydro the 1055 would be a 1075, the 7 being Hydro and all hydro units were electric start. pps, if you can't find 1054/953 spindles you could use GT-14 parts. Keep us posted as you go along.

Those are some nice looking tractors lynn! That 702 looks more like a 704 to me though. The 702 had the aluminum gas tank, and it had electric start. Jake

Hello everyone, I finished the resto on my b-80 awhile back, but during the process I realized my pto was shot, missing needle bearings, worn out clutch plate, etc. Well I used the link to the toro site here, and found that they do still sell these parts but the price. Well, I did'nt have that much cash to spare with all the other parts I was ordering for my horse, so I found a used one on :techie-ebay:in fair condition and that is what I have been using to date. I continued searching for a better price on the parts I needed to rebiuld my original, and I finally found the place. Its a place called Majestic Hardware on ebay majesticshardware255. Anyway I thought I would pass on the good new to anyone who needed these parts, these are real factory toro parts not aftermarket. The prices are as follows, needle bearing #106769 $15, ball bearing #106947&109842 $15, clutch plate #103140 $62. All these prices are far cheaper than ordering from toro. The replacement clutch has more clutch surface area than my original did, It contacts all of the machined area on the back of the hub,and not just 3/4 of it like the original did. Oh yeah he also combine shipping, it only cost $6 to ship.