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This 551 has been under a tarp in a barn for the last 15 to 20 years. The PO bought the tractor new in 1961 and has had it every since - 54 years. I knew the tractor was there, but I had not seen it for at least 20 years. This past week he called and said it was time. We made the deal on this and a Bronco 14.. The 551 is missing the foot rests, has the wrong decals, and the fluid has worked over the front rims, but it has the correct H55D - 2113 -(serial 55209). The muffler and belt guard are both there and it looks to be in nice shape for tractor 54 years old.

Just set up duals on my 753. What do you guys think?

My Originl Cab has both... snaps, and a zippered bottom, on its replaceable windshield.

Here are a few interior shots and an up close of the motor so you can see how mint it is.. Wow Denny I didn't realize it has been 6 weeks! It seems like it has been an eternity. If I didn't decide to bring it to work and work on it in the back warehouse I wouldn't have finished it this year. The weather has been kinda rotten this summer and at home I was working on it outdoors.. I guess i did okay because I was also able to give my Crestliner and its trailer a makeover as well. I'm done working on boats for the rest of the summer so if any of you guys find a boat that needs a makeover don't send me the Link because I'll be too busy out on the water!

The Dunphy is done! I just picked the boat up from the upholstery shop and it looks great.. The motor is original to the boat, I did the needed maint. on it and she purrs like a kitten. I spent a few days detailing the motor and it looks almost new..Maiden voyage will be sometime this week. The last time this boat was out on the water was 43 yrs. ago!

Hey fellas its been awhile. I had to get back in the garden tractor game. However since I moved to NC its hard to find anything at what I would consider a good deal or a good price. From what I can tell people either hold on to them, value them like they are gold or just scrap them. Well I was checking craigslist and I came acrossed this beauty. It is a Economy tractor, it has hydraulics, and came with a front dozer blade, and a turn over plow. However the connecting rod broke, so I am going to have to do something about this engine, either rebuild or repower.

My new 3 point implement what do you all think? It will be fun at tractor shows.

The 314-8 is a very good choice. It will handle any garden chores you throw at it. You would be hard pressed to find a better or stronger manual transmission in a garden tractor. The combination of that cast iron Kohler and that 8 speed doesn't get any better.

I have one-it's a great tractor you'll love it!

the 310-8,312-8,314-8 are all great hard working horses

You can't go wrong with a 314-8. One of the best models Wheel Horse made.

The 314-8 is IMHO one of the all time greats. The rear end is stout and will handle your plowing chores.

Beautiful job, Mike. One of my biggest complaints, not just with Wheel Horse (theit cab manufacturers, i.e. "Original Tractor Cab, Co.) but pretty much all cab manufacturers, is the fact that most do not have zippered-in, replaceable windows. I've often thought of making my own cab covers and doing just that.

I saw your Tacoma at the show Lane. Wheel Horse red is a nice color. I almost bought an access cab, 4x2, but walked away at the last minute. It was not certified, and with the winters that we have here, not getting a 4x4 would have been a big mistake. And that tiny thing they call a bench seat, Even my 7 year old grandson had a problem with that. The dealer that I am probably going to finalize a deal with has just lowered all four of his 2013's by $500.00 to $1000.00, making the deal a little sweeter. As far as towing, the empty weight of my 6 x 12 utility trailer is about 900 lbs. With 4 average Wheel Horses, the total weight would be about 3500 lbs. So even without the factory towing package I would be okay. I probably would have already purchased something, but as usual, life gets in the way. Had to replace the well pump, my current Chevy Astro needed a new front wheel hub/bearing, the wife's Subaru A/C went up, and on and on... Here is a picture of the unit I have been looking at. Actually there are two, one is white, and this silver one.

Well finally got it all together and tried it out and it is getting looser every time I drive it so it should be just fine. Thanks for the help

JEFF GO WITH THE C-160. NICE SET UP.

Johnny Bucket makes an electric actuator sleeve hitch that works independent of the rockshaft. I'm not sure if it could be adapted to a classic Wheel Horse due to the rear chassis configuration, but I did put one on my 523Dxi. I use my single stage snowthrower on this tractor and a scraper blade for up by garage doors. My 520xi has the blade with a UHMW edge. At some point my intention is to wire this tractor and get the frame portion from JB so that I can use this tractor as well with the sleeve hitch. You might want to consider this for your new 522xi.

So I decided to restore the C121 I aquired, I took every bolt out and I am in the process of rebuilding, I need some help with the small screws that go into the block for the points cover, I cant find anywhere a diagram showing what size they are and I have every document I could find on the web, I misplaced them.

Just take time, get help. Its quite hard to lift a Magnum 18 by yourself to a counter top. them key ways are sharp! needles to say i didn't complete the task alone

I use an electrican screw driver that locks on the screw to get it started.

This might be the ones Kohler Engines X-67-59-S SCREW, WASHER HD TAP #8-32X3/8" USE 25 086 99-S NOT ILLUSTRATED http://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/engines-horizontal/k301-47648-kohler-k301-engine-k-series-wheel-horse-12hp-9kw-specs-4710-47835/breaker-ignition-cont-tp-2097/ Hardware is listed on the first lines Have often thought an Allen capscrew would work better because it would stay on the Allen key. The originals are a slotted fillister head. Garry

Have you checked to make sure it has the rear cable lift system and rocker shaft to lift a rear hitch? If that is on it, great! If not, you will need to find one here on the classifieds or one at a swap meet.

Count me in Bert. I'll bring parts as well.

Are they both 93 through 95 they used the same part no. KH 10321. Some of the 89 and older used KH10320 . You can check the parts numbers on Parts Tree, or the Toro site. I used Parts Tree because it's easier to use. Don't have any idea what the difference is.

AMC - that is the serial # tag - 55209

Pullstart - the Bronco 14 is still on the trailer. I will post some pictures the first of the week. Jake - Since the decals have been replaced, the tractor has probably been repainted. I do know that the PO always stored the tractor in a garage or barn. I am going to ask him the next time we visit.

Definitely, the perfect canidate... for a new heart transplant.

Must be a newer model than the original ones form earlier years that I have seen, Mike. I stand corrected for the later models then. I'll have to dig out my old White with Red/Black lettering version and take a few pics. I know where in the storage shed it is, getting to it is the difficult part! LOL With the upcoming "1973 10-8 Replacement Project", perhaps it's a good time to consider setting this new tractor up with the cab I have BEFORE I start the paint job!!! ROTFLMAO I've always wanted to use it, but never wanted to drill holes in perfectly good fenders. I've also played around with teh idea of figuring out how to mount the cab without changing the machine. Perhaps I'll revisit that this time around.

After selling my C-200 with loader to MRC, which I of course regret, and the John Deere 112 with Johnson loader, I always wanted to find another one. I saw this for sale mounted on older Sears rider. It was listed on Craig's List and Ebay. I e-mailed the seller and asked if he would sell the loader separate and how much or if he was interested in any trades. He gave me a price and asked me what I had for trade. I have been sitting on that little Kitty Track dozer for a few years and seeing as the amount of work it needed and the cost just to have replacement tracks made ($800 with the chain links!), I offered it up in trade. He accepted and I picked it up yesterday up in Massachusetts (Actually really close to Wallfish). Apparently it was designed for the Bolens 800, 900 and 1000 series tractors. It has a trip bucket but they offered a hydraulic tilt kit. I have the manual that shows all the parts so that may be in order. Going to drop it off at the sandblasters next week and have him go to town on it. I believe he also does epoxy priming too. Today the kids helped me off load it and we rolled out the Diesel Ranger to see how it would look if I mounted it on it. I think the ranger is a touch to small. Maybe a "CERTAIN 702" might be in order to mount it on ! No matter what tractor it does end up on I'll have to fabricate the front and rear mounts which is really no big deal. These little midget loaders are almost impossible to find and this one is never going to leave my sight!

Awesome! Just awesome! I need to know how she works in a few short months! Curious about how much the front chains will help. Looks like the rear chains should do a good job even over the ags. I'm a big fan of the double cross links! Dennis Thornton

Those are the newer 520 cast rear weights that I put on this 702. Fireman decided he is going to go with the loader on the 160 so he will be bringing this one back later today. I might list it for sale we shall see....

I don't have any pictures. I had a couple made by a friend with a milling machine out of nylon. The nylon i picked up at an old mill site I was measuring to draw up Handicapped Access. I was being divided up for other business. If the blocks haven't been turned around that works one time. I had used both side of mine. If you could get some one to mill the slot across the piece shown above. Then you could saw them out and drill the holes. That piece is a little thick they are only around 1".square

I just got a starter/generator rebuilt, which included a new voltage regulator, for under $130. It goes on a Commando 8hp. While looking on the net, a starter/generator would have been @‌ $160 alone.

Haha, im guilty of the seafoam thing before too. Put a load of it in the tank then forgot to fill the tank back up. They dont run too well on straight seafoam.

I love it when I'm quoted! LOL

I am not sure what changes on angles and belt clearance for this model and layout but this is the Wheel Horse proper prescribed way for this model. The layout is available on parts diagrams. For C195 and the 60 inch Ariens sourced deck.

The RJ info seems pretty easy until the RJ-58s and 59s! <grin> I've tried to summarized what I have and I'm also hoping someone will also chime in on the earlier models. The info comes from all over and I take no credit for any of it! Thanks to ALL and sorry if I didn't credit everyone since I did quote some folks and not others. My intent is to eventually present simple facts of what is known but also what is suspected in a very concise format and hopefully be able to copy all the data in a still meaningful way to the already existing spreadsheet. If all goes as hoped, the "Gallery" could also support this project with pictures with captions, brochures and anything and everything that helps. Please review and help me add anything missing and correct anything wrong! I encourage "nit picking"! And what I have for 1955 through 57 info is pretty slim! 1950s RJs, The garden tractors of the 50s are referred to as RJs, Ride-Away Jr.s. with mid engine and straight axles. Note:The 1960-61 models were also mid-engine but with cast axles though the 701 axle was yet a different style. The pre-1958 models have the Pond transaxle with the chain case on one side. The 3-piece UniDrive was introduced with the RJ-58, and the last model to use it was the 401. 1955 RJ-25, Briggs 2.5 HP engine, Single-piece channel frames, and a belt-drive system with "POND" stamped on the rear axle. Simple grill, with no name or extra designs added. 1955 RJ-35, Kohler k-90 or Clinton B-1200, Single-piece channel frames, and a belt-drive system with "POND" stamped on the rear axle. Simple grill, with no name or extra designs added. 1956 RJ-25, Briggs 2.5 HP engine, Single-piece channel frames, and a belt-drive system with "POND" stamped on the rear axle. Simple grill, with no name or extra designs added. 1956 RJ-35, Kohler k-90 or Clinton B-1200, Single-piece channel frames, and a belt-drive system with "POND" stamped on the rear axle. Simple grill, with no name or extra designs added. 1957 RJ-35, Kohler k-90 or Clinton B-1200 No RJ-25? No Briggs? Wheel Horse name was added to the grill. 5 lug rear wheels 1958 and 1959 RJS. Now enters the controversy... Was there even a 59JR? ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ MikesRJ Jul 04, 2011 This is a personal opinion, and is sure to create a firestorm of controversy but, I seriously doubt there ever was an "official" RJ-59 ever built by Wheel Horse. No one has ever produced a serial number tag reading "RJ-59". In the years I have been seeking information on the RJ058/59 (which is extensive), it is my opinion that WH manufactured RJ-58's for two years. The final stages of production, roughly 2500 machines or less, used some additional parts derived from the upcoming 1960 400 machine, and hence had some minor differences to their predecessors. Other than that I don't believe there really is an RJ-59, period. RJ-58/59: That said, the model/serial tag is located on the top side of the left-front frame, immediately behind the hood where the hood mounts to the frame. See image below. The only way to get an idea of date of manufacture, short of the tag, is to look at the casting date on the transmission center section. The date code is cast immediately to the right of the hole in which the shifter passes. That date code is the letter and numbers indicating month and year of casting. Let me know what the cast date is and I can tell you roughly when the transmission was manufactured. Not a conclusive method if the trans was replaced but ballpark if it is original. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ And Stevasaurus: Some will say.."If you do not have the sticker that says it's a 59...then it is a 58". "I tend to agree with some of the purists here...if you do not have the sticker...it is a 1958." ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Anyways, continuing... 1958 RJ-58 The 1958 Rj-58 model introduced a new three-speed transmission.,the Uni-Drive, Model 5003 that Elmer Pond designed and came with the Clinton B-1290 and the Kohler k-90. The RJ-58 and RJ-59 used a "new" welded angle-iron frame. Early 1958 RJs: Round rear wheel hubs with only 3 holes which came from the Walk Aways. Leather shifter boot RJ-35 style front rims (Not sure what that means?) Rear hitch had separate welded flat pieces vs. the newer style one piece which was bent into shape Some of the foot pedal and lift arm pieces looked more crude the way they were cut and welded. The seat pan was a little bit deeper RJ-58/59 - welded steel clutch pedal, no contour stiffening lines in the hood, single throttle control, no choke cable. RJ 58/59 - 5003 transmission, if you look how the brake band mounts, the screws that hold the brake band are vertical mounted on the trans.. 1959 RJ-59 A solid seat pan was used on tractors in 1960 and some RJs which seem to be completely original also had a solid seat pan which could indicate a 1959 Some will have a height selector for the lift arm which was used on the 1960 tractors. Transmission casting code could also indicate 1959 1958/1959 --RJ-58 and RJ-59 used a "new" 3-piece uni-drive transaxle [Model 5003], as well as a "new" welded angle-iron frame. The Clinton model engine changed to the model B-1290 --which was still a 3.6hp engine. Corrections? Additions? Bound to be something I've mis-typed at least! Thanks for all the help so far! Dennis Thornton

That works, but I've busted the aluminum housing off at the large c-clip at the bottom.

The capsule should have an almost grease consistency lubricant. it is applied to the nylon (or some kind of plastic) follower in the points assembly. It lubricates the follower and the cam on a distributor shaft. Since your Kohler uses a plunger instead of a cam and follower it is unnecessary.

Hi Mike, There is no drop in and go engine other than the Onan P216, P218 and P220's that were designed to fit the Onan Powered tractors. Early 416's were powered by a Kohler single cyl 16 HP motor but you would need to rewire the tractor to make it work. There are 10, 12 and 14 horse Kohlers that would bolt right on that tractor of yours Any Kohler K series, KT series and Kohler Magnum will work that have been in Wheelhorse tractors but you need to rewire the harness that is currently on your tractor. It is specific to the Onan engine that is on it. If you can find a donor Wheelhorse tractor with a Kohler engine that has a 15 amp charging circuit on it, it wouldn't be too difficult but you just can't drop another motor in it and hook it up to your existing harness. The crankshaft of another engine must be at least 2.7 inches in length. It must have a diameter of inch and an eighth and have a quarter inch keyway or you can't use your Wheelhorse PTO or the stock drive pulley. There are many Kohler engines that use a little 3 amp charging circuit where as your Onan has a 15 amp charging circuit. You would need the muffler/bracket and all the tins, (shrouds), with another engine. You could conceivably use your existing throttle and choke controls but again, depending on the engine, yours may be too long or too short to work properly with another engine. I'm sure swaps have been done by some members on here from their Onan to a Kohler or perhaps another brand. Small Engine Warehouse and Small Engines for less have new drop in engines for the 500 series Wheelhorse and I'm sure it would work with little effort on a 416 Onan tractor but you'll be paying out 1800 plus dollars for a new engine. I saw your earlier post and I don't know how much money you have to put into this tractor but if your unsure what to do yourself, find a small engine guy/shop that has a reputable history close to you and ask him/her to look at the tractor and especially the carburetor. There is also a crankcase breather element under the carb assembly that will need cleaned out. You may have bad valve seals and even a hammered valve seat in that engine but for a little money, a good shop can look at it and tell you pretty quickly if it's a carb issue and filthy crankcase breather assembly issue or if there is an internal problem. The glowing muffler is a lean mixture of fuel. That muffler isn't glowing because of too much fuel. Also check your oil level and make sure it isn't over filled and also make sure it doesn't have a gasoline smell to it. On the Onan's, you pull the stick out and whip it off and put it back in all the way including turning it snug then pull it out and read the stick. Some folks don't screw it in and overfill the crankcase. I hope this long-winded post helps some!

Yup, very common. A welder is your best friend.

Nics Lawn Ranger has always been able to hold its own. Probably my favorite Wheel Horse of all time...

Stay away from R&L. Learn from my mistake. They quoted me $230 for a tractor and when it arrived in CT at the terminal they would not release it unless I paid $2300. Yes, thats not a typo. They said it was not classified correctly and as a piece of motorized machinery the classification code changed. And yes, they didn't feel a need to contact me. They took it upon themselves to re-classify it, inflate the rate, and still push it through. After three days of non-stop arguing I finally had to pay $1000 to release the tractor or face storage fees. My attorney said to chalk it up as a learning experience but I refused. I ended up filing a lawsuit against them in CT court and they agreed to settle outside of court. Never again. I use Fastenal.

The biggest variable on the value of a Wheel Horse seems to be geographic, if they are scarce in your area they can command a strong price. The other primary factor is the quality of the "restoration". Some people consider a quick repaint to be a restoration.

How about one of those cheap Harbor Freight fold up 4 X 8 trailers. Add some more wheels or camper jacks for stability. You can tow it around with another horse and fold it up when not in use?

Most likely the bushings are too stiff,and need to be honed. I have a 1" reamer I run through mine, and its usually best to check and make sure all of the parts will slide freely through the bushings before assembling. Unless it will come free by driving it you most likely will need to take it apart again. But if it will drive it will most likely only get easier as the bushings wear in.

Just walked in the door. 14 hours in a torrential rain. Good to be home. Glad you are enjoying the popcorn. Great seeing you all at the show. See you all next year.

I am waiting on a text from Santa for Craig

Have been meaning to post some pictures of my snow setup on the C160 for a while but hadn't got around to it. Finally have gotten to use it the past week or so, although after last winter I am certainly not complaining about having fewer opportunities to push snow so far this year. My setup for snow is some old Firestone "Town & Country" 6-12's that came with my 854 on the rear, and some surplus snow blower tires on the front. I've got some Wards wheel weights on the rear and WH weights on the front, plus a couple suitcase weights tucked into the rear for good measure. The blade is actually a newer 48" blade with a 5-position sector I came across, which I much prefer to the 42" / 3 position one I used on my old C120. On the recommendation from someone on here, I bought a pair of Cree 18W LED spot lights for the front (love them!), and put them on a mount I built to attach to the front hitch. I also added a set of LED strobes to make sure I can be seen. After using a Deere 140 H3 last year with a hyd lift/angle blade I was afraid I would regret getting rid of it and choosing the C160 as my snow mover for this year. I'm happy to report that so far, so good. I do wish it could lift the blade as high as the 140 could, but that is the only trade off I have experienced so far. The weights and skinny tires seem to work pretty well. They do spin on slick surfaces, but I think anything short of chains probably would. The tractor is much easier to steer than that 140 was, and so far haven't even come close to running out of power. I've actually been doing the neighbor's driveway to help him out and to get a little more seat time!

Sadly, life got in the way and I was unable to work on my little tractor for almost a year. I made the decision, some people say mistake, to buy a 1939 Ford 9N. I won't get that running for a few years. It was a bargain; most of the parts are there and it was only $400. I can put $3000 into restoring it and then sell it for $2000, Back to my C81. All the springs and pullies are in place. The clutch pully cannot take up any more slack. The belt I have is a NAPA 5L820W. Should I get an 81 inch belt instead of the 82?