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Today JimT1971 and I got to mark a Wheel Horse off if the list. We have been looking for one for a while, but unfortunately when we would find one, it would be out of our price range (worth the money dont get me wrong, we just could not afford it). Well today the tractor gods smiled down on us. The guy was a day and 5 hours late to a show (which we just happened to be at and arrived late to due to a late night of tractor pulling). We were sitting at Warren's tent when Jim popped out of his chair and said, I'll be back...see something come in I have to have, we chased the truck and trailer, even knocked on his window, helped him make a tight turn and followed him to the tent. Once there asked them how much for the Wheel Horse (Jim and I had a game plan depending on how he came at us, but didnt need it) he told us the price and Jim says, it is sold!!. We gave them the money, rolled it off the trailer and then got a tow tractor (thanks Warren) and brought it back to the campsite. A wet butt and a short ride later we now had the task of trying to figure out how to get the beast home. Again due to the late night and knowing that we would be getting to the show late, we did not want to chance a trailer and not able to find parking. We also had all of the tools, an easy up and chairs in the back of the truck..uh oh...well with the help of Warren, his friend Jim, JimT1971 myself and a stranger, we were able to push the tractor up into the truck bed. (Thank God for the high top cap). We even fit ALL of the tools, ez up chairs, hand truck ect back in the bed...I know that I have not said what the Wheel Horse was...it was a C195!!!!!!!!! Here are some pictures of it stuffed in the truck, I will get more once we have it out and can do more pictures.

I saw an ad on craigslist that had been sitting around a while (month or so). The only information: It was a 500 series Wheel Horse, "520 horsepower", bagger, cart, 48" deck and there was a fairly dark hard to see image. No phone number, email only. I thought, What the heck I will see what its about. I found out it was a 1994 520H. It hasnt been the prime mower in nearly 9 years, but was driven around the property and only has sat for the last year or so (husband passed away in Feburary of this year). The people lived just a few minutes from my parents house and had been by there many times since I was a boy. Long story short: It was NOT the deal of the century, but I probably paid a fair value. They were the original owner, meticulously maintained and stored inside all of its life. 363.7 hours on a working meter. all gauges work and sounds great. Needs minor maintenance as it hasn't been serviced in the last year like fresh gas, new fluids, standard stuff. The bagger is pristine, no holes that I saw at all, matches the condition of the rest of it. Take a look at this beauty:

The rebuild has officially began. I got the motor unstuck and most of the replacement tins purchased. My son gave me a good set of rear wheels. So far I've had 2 bolts break off. The transmission shifter bolt and one belt guard bolt. I will be needing a left fender, gas cap,lift cable and choke and throttle cables so far. I'm shure a lot more before i'm finished. I can move it around slot easier now but it shure doesn't look like a tractor any more. My wife said it looks like a pile of junk.

Short little video of Skonk puttin around sweeping. With the seat up high and all the leg room I can almost lie down and drive! Follow the video till the end for the "POP" Can't believe how the grass keeps growing and July is half over.

I thought he wrote "its all about the POOP"!!!

Had time today to clean it up just figured I'd post some pics of it now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am very rusty on this, I am pleased that I havent worked on a Tecumseh for quite a few years!! The indent on the front cover is where the oil pump is housed. The H60 does not have an oil pump, so does not have this indent. The H55 does not have a dipper on the rod, the H60 has the dipper for its splash lubrication. I do remember that I used H60 rings in my H55, also H60 gaskets. I reused my H55 piston and rod. A few years after I freshened my engine, I came across a vertical shaft engine that had an identical oil pump and rod as my H55. I think the vert engine was a V55. "Puddlejumper" was doing a bit with the H55's at one stage, you might find some info in his posts, or if he is still around he might remember more than I do. He ended up with a few of my left over pieces. EDIT: My mag looked different from that, but my engine had no charging system, so that may be the difference. My throttle/governor set-up looks the same as what you have. My '63 Ranger also had this setup on its H60.

Thanks for the details! You are the second person I know thats done it. I just like to see everyone's approaches. And as far as purists, you saved a horse and on the cheap... I dont think anyone can talk bad about ya for that!

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I like the back wheels with the hub caps you don't see that every day!

Since I have some older and some newer horses, the problem is that bracket. On the round hoods and short frames the bracket catches the blade on the outside of the angle iron. My B-100 and Raider 10 attach on the inside. Ed, I would try option 2 before I started cutting things. Pull off that other bracket and try that...then you know what you need and can modify one of your other attach brackets. Hiding in the Man Cave again today...heat index is 100 F. Any searching to day will be "for my lost shaker of salt".

I think oil is oil as long as the spec codes are consistent with what is needed for any particular application.

Get 'er done! Hope you have a good sand blasting cabinet. I know it'll look great when completed, and you'll be a happy camper.

I've got blinders on when it comes to the oil I use but I suppose if it meets the latest standards there's no reason not to.

yeah. common reaction from not only the wife but most people with no vision. My GT14 looks pretty similar at the moment. Although I have about 25% blasted and primed. But we know what it will look like when finished and the value of restoring the history. Great job getting it to this point!

Thats just like the one I hope will fall into my lap one day! Good score!

IT IS TOO WET TO LOAD UP HERE. TOMORROW ? WE WILL SEE. RUSS

My wife learned a long time ago that the best way to avoid dismay is to not go into my shop.

I see no junk there... just a labor of love.

Yes they do fit and look nice too. I tried to post a pic but it says it's to big. The tires I have are 6.7 15 not the easiest to find and when you do expect to pay around 130 to 150 a piece. I will try to get a pic up later if you want to see what it looks like.

Neil, I too ran into that problem when searching for ag tires for my GT14, I finally found skid steer tires that worked in the size 27x8.5x15 mounted on the original GT Rims. So you may want to try searching for skid steer tires, they can be a bit pricey, I finally found a commercial tire dealer who saved me about $60 per tire which put the total at $100/tire. Hope this helps. John Here is what I found and used, brand new 27x8.5x15

Neil, yes I do think the GT-14 hubs are able to accommodate the 953 / 1054 wheels, Mark.

They now need to be cleaned before I ship them again!

Here's some low quality pics. She aint a showpiece! Huge honkin muffler. That was the hardeest part. Hood is tight fit. Dont comment on my exhaust braze job.

The START function on higher powered battery chargers will put 20+ volts into the electrical system. Coils get hot, tachometers get fried and the ignition module on 520's can be stressed / damaged. Cranking a battery dead, then being impatient and over-volting the battery to rush recharge can cost you - big time!

Here are a few pictures of the plates I collected from some of you guys at the Big Show and other places. I will be mailing these to Koen ( C-101plowerpower ) in the Netherlands this week. Thanks all that made this possible...it is quite a collection.

Picked up this '74 C-160 a few weeks ago and hadn't had a chance to post it yet. It was a one owner tractor bought new in '74 by the husband of the widow I bought it from. She was one of those women who had lived her whole life on a farm and could probably outwork most people half her age, myself included! She was still using the tractor to mow the ditches when it dumped all of it's transmission fluid out the RH axle seal. The local Toro shop said the bearing and seal needed to be replaced, and the cost to fix it was more than she wanted to put into it, so that's why she was selling it. I couldn't drive it in that condition, but the engine seemed to run well. The 48" deck is in very good shape and bearings are nice and quiet. The pads on the deluxe seat aren't the best, but at least everything is there. Overall the tractor looks well maintained, but also used pretty regularly it's whole 40-year life. She gave me the original manual. In it were lots of notes about services done and when. The hour meter shows a little over 1000 hours on it, but it wasn't hooked up so who knows how many hours it really has. The notes don't say anything about engine work, but it looks to have a newer shortblock in it. It has had some modifications over the years, but nothing that can't be undone as far as I can tell. I have already pulled the deck off and put it to work on my C-120. It mows very nice although the C-120 does lug quite a bit if the grass is tall or wet at all. It will do just fine for now. I'm looking forward to digging in to the C-160 and getting it back up and running. I'm sure a few surprises await, but hopefully they aren't too bad Dave

I have a wheel horse charger 12 that I want to get rid of, it's rare for my area and I can't figure out why it won't start. Let me know if you're interested. Derek from Rhode Island

My vife pic upp New tires for my horse tida. I love her. Se even pay them.

The summer Zagray show is next weekend http://www.zagrayfarmmuseum.org/Zagray_Farm.html

This is close to as far as I took the unit alot of curve balls came my way welding , voltage regulator , bushings , etc washing before prep and paint .

Well done! As far as reliability I repowered a snowblower with the 6.5 Predator. Replaced an 8 horse Briggs. Best $99I ever spent. Going on 3 winters now. Two pulls on the cord and away we go.

On many many model tractors, there is a 'KILL' switch on the PTO lever. It is in series with other safety switches and this MAY be the problem. I don't think it is a mechanical issue but, rather, an electrical interrupt or KILL switch. Some tractors have 3 switches...seat safety, PTO kill, and clutch / brake pedal switch. As someone else stated....tell us what tractor you are using.

to Derek. If I were a little closer to RI, I would haul it away for free.

I saw this on Craigslist in Florida ... not mine, and I don't know anything about it except ... I have never seen this model before!! Is it rare? 1966???

Turned out to be a beautiful day to head out early & get some riding in . Here's a couple for anyone interested in seeing them .

Another vote to leave it be ... as Paul said ATF and oil just dont mix well. (I have it in my C-175) and ALL of it just wouldnt come out on a drain. Probably IS a good idea to change it tho... Re the drain plug -- It is pretty small tucked on the very bottom of the case and over the years can get packed up with dirt/debris. They can be notoriously 'stuck' so make sure you clean the hex socket of anything in it, you'll want the hex wrench to fit cleanly into the very bottom to get as much contact as possible.

As the clutch face wears, the trunion at the end of the PTO engagement rod needs to be adjusted. Pull out the hitch pin and rotate the trunion 1-2 turns clockwise. Your owners manual should give you a pix of how to do this. If you do not have an owners manual, look for a download here on RS (under manuals section). PS, if you have the mower deck too low and or the grass is too high, even with a properly adjusted trunion, the blades will stop spinning

If your muffler is glowing, your fuel mixture is real lean and that also causes poor running issues as well as a very hot engine! Your ignition module is most likely fine! You need to adjust your fuel mix to give it more gasoline and I wouldn't run it the way it is running now.

Down force is good if you have a paved driveway, but if you don't your driveway will end up in your yard! I use a chain from the trunion all the way to the plow with no solid link. I have a stone drive and use the dial a height adjustment to hold the plow about an inch above the surface to keep the stone movement at a minimum.

Thanks for posting the pictures and all the info. I have been wondering how one of these engines would fit in a . I think it looks fine and remember, it"s your tractor so all you have to do is please yourself.

OK, here goes a long post.........Crankcase noise? Less than old Onan, but doesnt purr like a Honda. Muffler is Ginormous but not that quiet. Am I really the first person to do this?? If I did this . Anybody can do this. (especially after i give all the details) Measure , Measure , Measure before you take old motor off. Height , width, distance from here to there. The more reference points the better. HF shaft is 1.3" lower than P220. I used 1.25" aluminum (the miracle metal) blocks. Easiest to drill thru. (7/16 Holes) HF shaft is near exactly 1"Dia. P220 1 1/8" Dia... Thus you need a piece of steel tube 1 1/8" O.D. 1" I.D. (Online Metals. get at least 1' I will tell ya why later). However, closest i could find was .992" I.D. Had to use a 1" bore thru. Keyway slot needs cut in new tube to match slot in HF shaft. 1/4" key. You have to use 1/4" X somethin bigger key, cause you have increased the needed height by putting that sleeve on there. In other words to go up into drive pulley far enough. Oh longer set screws too. The length of this sleeve... sorry i didnt write it down. You gotta guess like i did by putting the PTO cone on. You have to be sure you are past the length of that heavy steel bushing or whatever that thing is called the needle bearing travels on. I unbolted the original motor plate and put the 1 1/4" spacers under it. I contemplated that, big time, whether to leave the original plate there and put spacers under it, or space the motor on top of the plate. i didnt feel right about the motor sitting on little blocks, so i spaced the motor mount plate up. If i had spacers and another plate i might not have gone the route i did. Have your front belt tightener pulley thing on the tractor for the east and west motor alignment. Have your PTO on and place a belt over the pulley. Make sure it doesnt ride on the cone flat disc face. Use all those measurements you took for north and south. Obviously you have to drill new holes in motor mount plate to match HF motor mount holes. (i used a 3/8" dowel rod about 1 1/2" long with paint on it to mark new hole placement. you dont have room for anything like a marker or center punch.) Upper PTO mount I simply had to weld 1" to its lower extremity to meet with HF bolt holes. Had I put the motor up on spacers and left the mount plate there I "might" not have had to do this. EXHAUST SUCKED! HF muffler dumps right in your face. Cannibalized new muffler and old, to flop everything around. Oh you can used leftover 1" tube to lengthen pipes to clear PTO and hood. Same size as exhaust pipes. .............. You figure it out. I did. Throttle and choke simply undo old/new ... hook old/new up. HF comes with a "control box" take it apart lengthen wires drill bigger hole in dash for ignition switch. SIMPLE STUFF. Obviously I got rid of ALL BS guages. Might try to hook up voltmeter. Fuel line SINCH. Battery SINCH. The hood is tight. I need to raise it. The hood louvers cut into the HF air filter top. I have a rag on it now. Muffler touches side of hood. GO FOR IT! All you guys that never cleaned the cooling fins on your Onan. I bought this one for $150 only because it had new back tires. All you Wheelhorse purists, is this like puttin a Chevy motor in a Ford? Or worse? If anybody needs more info, not sure if my e-mail address shows up to everybody, but feel free.

All Steve needs to do now, (CENTS he has all this time on his hands), is to sit in his lawn chair and figure out a way the Bears can make the play offs! He will probably go thru a few dozen chairs before that happens though! .

Snow Plow in Florida...rare

If you take out a top bolt and fill to much, oil will run out of the hole and make a mess. If you haven't gotten the filter yet, get a Napa 1410. A better filter and usually cheaper than Toro

Remember; more power=more push. Compensating for low horse power by "ramming" is hard on the transmission mounting plate. Low hp requires smaller bites.

I have a manual for the D250. PM me if you are interested in it.

Seeing all my old friends.... Sitting at the camper, figures I would give this first view.