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I saw an ad on craigslist that had been sitting around a while (month or so). The only information: It was a 500 series Wheel Horse, "520 horsepower", bagger, cart, 48" deck and there was a fairly dark hard to see image. No phone number, email only. I thought, What the heck I will see what its about. I found out it was a 1994 520H. It hasnt been the prime mower in nearly 9 years, but was driven around the property and only has sat for the last year or so (husband passed away in Feburary of this year). The people lived just a few minutes from my parents house and had been by there many times since I was a boy. Long story short: It was NOT the deal of the century, but I probably paid a fair value. They were the original owner, meticulously maintained and stored inside all of its life. 363.7 hours on a working meter. all gauges work and sounds great. Needs minor maintenance as it hasn't been serviced in the last year like fresh gas, new fluids, standard stuff. The bagger is pristine, no holes that I saw at all, matches the condition of the rest of it. Take a look at this beauty:

I saw this on Craigslist in Florida ... not mine, and I don't know anything about it except ... I have never seen this model before!! Is it rare? 1966???

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Here's some low quality pics. She aint a showpiece! Huge honkin muffler. That was the hardeest part. Hood is tight fit. Dont comment on my exhaust braze job.

Ed...you are cracking me up. It is 100 degrees heat index here today...and RacinBob is in Florida...so you know he is hiding in the "Man Cave". I think we both just love questions like yours so we can go into manuals and figure things out and not have to go outside today. We are the lazy ones...really. BTW...the only things I am a Pro at...............hiding in the Man Cave, heckling from the back, stirring the pot...I am taking retirement pretty good (but not a pro yet)...and...the thing I am really good at...I can work magic with the TV remote.

This was my second year at this show......and it did grow some. Also, Nice to see some more wheel horse people come this year . Just took some random snapshots of the show including my Andrew who spent about 75% of his time there hanging out in Joebob's new camper. Planning on going again next year.

My vife pic upp New tires for my horse tida. I love her. Se even pay them.

Thanks Guys....for the quick responses. I'm lazy Steve....much easier to ask the pros and experts than to read the manuals. Plus it gives me a reason to say HI.

Seven, The oil hole must face the cam.If you run it facing away then the rod will not get oil at the bottom end.Early rod and crank failure are in the not to distant future.Pull the pan and check if you are not sure.A new pan gasket is cheaper than hard parts and if you have the rod in correctly then you can sleep at nights. Luck,JAinVA

I couldnt use the standard 20% off coupon even online. Luckily someone posted on another forum a good code to use. I got mine for like $601 at my door. I passed on the extended warranty. might come back to bite me in the But then again. Fun project.

My wife picked up New tires for my horse today. I love her. She even paid them.

Seeing Neil's post with a Mountfield ad from the sixties reminded me that I've been meaning to post some info on the Amnor factory in Belgium for just over a year now. (Sorry folks!) I managed to track down a guy who worked there from 1980-81 and who provided a snapshot of how things were at that time based on some questions I put to him. I was Manufacturing Engineer at Wheel-Horse Amnor N.V. in 1980 and 1981. It was a fast growing company (revenue increased from 10 Mio to 17 Mio and to 25 Mio Euro in 3 successive years) for the markets Europe, Middle east and North Africa and assembled from small to medium size lawn- and garden tractors. This too fast growing caused then severe cash problems and a series of take-overs by other companies started until finally the company became a Toro company which it still is. The plant mainly existed of 3 different assembly area: 1) Pre-paint assembly 2) Pretreatment (degreasing, washing, phosphating, washing, passivation and neutralizing, final washing, drying), wed paint booth, cure oven 3) Final assembly Different models were assembled in different batches (very seldom two models were assembled simultaneously). The sheet metal parts were all imported from the main plant in US, (greased but not painted). (we did not have sheet metal presses to produce the parts ourselves) The engines were Briggs and Straton (US brand) or Kholer (European Brand). The majority of the other parts were also imported from US, except when European distributors were specifically asking for European parts, meeting the metric standards, in stead of the inch standards: e.g. bearings, belts, bolts, shafts. This was to my knowledge the only difference in models. So, using parts from another model as substitution to maintain production, was never done, as far as I know. Design engineering was done completely in US and they produced the ‘first-offs’. We at Geel only started assembling when the new model was full mature. (with exception of 1 ‘walk-behind’ model which was specially and solely designed for Europe by 2 engineers in Geel). (this model was not a big success because too expensive). My thanks go to Marc S in Belgium for sharing this with us. While on the subject does anyone in the US have a copy of 'Horse Power' (Wheel Horse Collectors Club Newsletter) from November 2003. There is an item about the Amnor factory in it. I have a pdf copy but unfortunately when it was scanned a critical page was missed out. I'm hoping that somebody may have collected the newsletters and can help by scanning the article in full for me. Andy

OK, here goes a long post.........Crankcase noise? Less than old Onan, but doesnt purr like a Honda. Muffler is Ginormous but not that quiet. Am I really the first person to do this?? If I did this . Anybody can do this. (especially after i give all the details) Measure , Measure , Measure before you take old motor off. Height , width, distance from here to there. The more reference points the better. HF shaft is 1.3" lower than P220. I used 1.25" aluminum (the miracle metal) blocks. Easiest to drill thru. (7/16 Holes) HF shaft is near exactly 1"Dia. P220 1 1/8" Dia... Thus you need a piece of steel tube 1 1/8" O.D. 1" I.D. (Online Metals. get at least 1' I will tell ya why later). However, closest i could find was .992" I.D. Had to use a 1" bore thru. Keyway slot needs cut in new tube to match slot in HF shaft. 1/4" key. You have to use 1/4" X somethin bigger key, cause you have increased the needed height by putting that sleeve on there. In other words to go up into drive pulley far enough. Oh longer set screws too. The length of this sleeve... sorry i didnt write it down. You gotta guess like i did by putting the PTO cone on. You have to be sure you are past the length of that heavy steel bushing or whatever that thing is called the needle bearing travels on. I unbolted the original motor plate and put the 1 1/4" spacers under it. I contemplated that, big time, whether to leave the original plate there and put spacers under it, or space the motor on top of the plate. i didnt feel right about the motor sitting on little blocks, so i spaced the motor mount plate up. If i had spacers and another plate i might not have gone the route i did. Have your front belt tightener pulley thing on the tractor for the east and west motor alignment. Have your PTO on and place a belt over the pulley. Make sure it doesnt ride on the cone flat disc face. Use all those measurements you took for north and south. Obviously you have to drill new holes in motor mount plate to match HF motor mount holes. (i used a 3/8" dowel rod about 1 1/2" long with paint on it to mark new hole placement. you dont have room for anything like a marker or center punch.) Upper PTO mount I simply had to weld 1" to its lower extremity to meet with HF bolt holes. Had I put the motor up on spacers and left the mount plate there I "might" not have had to do this. EXHAUST SUCKED! HF muffler dumps right in your face. Cannibalized new muffler and old, to flop everything around. Oh you can used leftover 1" tube to lengthen pipes to clear PTO and hood. Same size as exhaust pipes. .............. You figure it out. I did. Throttle and choke simply undo old/new ... hook old/new up. HF comes with a "control box" take it apart lengthen wires drill bigger hole in dash for ignition switch. SIMPLE STUFF. Obviously I got rid of ALL BS guages. Might try to hook up voltmeter. Fuel line SINCH. Battery SINCH. The hood is tight. I need to raise it. The hood louvers cut into the HF air filter top. I have a rag on it now. Muffler touches side of hood. GO FOR IT! All you guys that never cleaned the cooling fins on your Onan. I bought this one for $150 only because it had new back tires. All you Wheelhorse purists, is this like puttin a Chevy motor in a Ford? Or worse? If anybody needs more info, not sure if my e-mail address shows up to everybody, but feel free.

Hey @countrygirl216 Post a wanted ad here: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/10-wanted/ for any 8 speed 1 1/8" transmission made after 1970 like @stevasaurus said. OR Search your local craigslist for a horse (best to find a 400 series or a C- anything). But your best bet will probably be to get one shipped from someone here. You can ship heavy things like transmissions through Fastenal Third Party Logistics fairly cheap (must be strapped to a pallet and empty of oil). Ill bet shipping on a transmission comes in well under $100 depending on where its coming from.

That thing is extremely nice!!! Congratulations!!!

Very Nice. Sure is a great day when you come across a find like that. Can I see a pic with the bagger on it? take care Mike

REAL NICE!

Good deal! very convenient, takes about 30 sec to join. I'm now an official member! Thanks Eldon, P.S. (my brother is also an 'Eldon')

I found this review of the Harbor Freight Predator V-Twin on homebuiltairplanes.com while looking for info on oil filters. The reviewer actually tore the engine down that he received. Some of his findings are interesting. Obviously an engine for an aircraft is critical. http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/firewall-forward-props-fuel-system/21130-22-hp-harbor-freight-engine-evaluation-other-v-tiwns.html

If I had to bet on it though, I think it was the brand of belt that was causing my original problem. It seemed to get gummy shortly after it was running for a bit. (Rear cylinder blows heat right on it) I'm thinking some belts are made to "slip" and some are made to grip. Being a little off subject, but I've tried several different belts on my vehicle to stop the squeal and squeak, Bando will be the only one that I'll buy for that situation.

Cool, people do not realize that this is the one place where you want a belt to slip...it is your clutch. Like most people, I found out the hard way. One of the first things I did was to put belt grip on the belt...we will not go any farther then that. Mineral spirits and sand paper or steel wool is the only way to go.

Just an update, Didn't buy new pulleys. Just cleaned the other ones up with some fine sandpaper. Put the 4" pulley on the engine like what is suppose to be there. Bought a blue 83" V-belt from TSC and it works perfect! Nice smooth transition from stop to go, and only does wheelies when I say so

Search some of kiwi's @sorekiwi old threads. I seem to remember him doing a post on the interchangability of parts a long time ago.

Snow Plow in Florida...rare

Sorry about that, The international issue is fixed now. We can accept payments from anywhere in the world. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

I had the same thing in mind, a few of us could bring gas grills and dogs or burgers, others could bring coolers with other fixins, whatever is a specialty for them. Sort of like a family reunion picnic that a lot of us are accustomed to. I am really not into camping and would be spending the night in a nearby motel, perhaps others would also wish to do this and we could establish a "Host Hotel"

we have a 516 H up for sale. it was seating for about 10 years. i did get the unit running and it does travel, but the mower deck is frozen up. ID# 31160E01 11188. It has a ONAN 16 horse engine. please ask any questions, and i'll try to answer. asking $350.00 call or text 937-686-4844

Did the HF Predator repower. Pretty easy. Sleeve for shaft, Spacers under motor plate, modify PTO mount, modify exhaust. Ignition switch, circuit breaker, throttle, fuel lines, all easy to hook up.(eliminated all gauges and crazy old wiring) Best thing $600. Would have had much more than that in my P220 rebuild. (valve seats) Might not last long might not be able to get parts. But, fun project, and the 520 is ALIVE again!

They now need to be cleaned before I ship them again!

USPS International looks to be about $100 less than that. I'm stunned. Just a very few years ago I was shipping overseas via USPS for just a couple bucks more than domestic.

Lookin' good ! How'd you get the dent in the drawer of your tool cabinet ?

That thing is smokin' clean! Nice tractor .

Finally found a way to retrieve the serial numbers that are posted in the Yahoo manuals Group albeit a painfully slow process. Have been adding them to the files for each model here at Red Square. It won't be as slick as the way it used to be but at least we will have them. After all approximately 5000 of them are here I'm thinking I can copy each year onto a single model year page but that will be it. As new serials appear there will be two locations to update. The 1961 models already appear on a single page because there was just one manual for 1961. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1074-tractor-1961-401-551-701-da-om-ipl-wiring-snpdf/ Garry

i have a motor setting on the shelf that looks the same i always wondered the samething for sum reason i want to say all the the sheet metal will interchange but i think the piston and rod are different but i could be wrong its been awhile sense i read up on the subject

....I am looking for lights, I have found these and am thinking they might do the trick. I am off on holiday for 2 weeks so no updates for a while, I will show you how it looks after my return

Nice Horse! Got to love those older Stallions! Welcome to the forums. PS: Be sure to keep us up to date. Want to hear of your enjoyable restoration project.

I don't see why not Ed. I also don't think the idler pulley would be a problem. Over the years I've put blades on various tractors. There's been a couple times I've had to modify the angle lever but it's always been an easy fix.

Neet work and solution - I like it! It's what WH should have done in the first place. Sorry about the rod - that's a ***** but part of life's rich tapestry of challenges with these aging beasts I guess. My 'shiny' D-200 was laid up for a year till I fixed the dead hydro hopefully you'll get yours on the road again fairly quickly. Andy

good looking tractor Dustin

Welcome to the board, where we're never bored for sure! Nice tractor, it looks like you have a great foundation to start your project. Enjoy!

Tried to join using iPad with no luck not sure if it is open for Euro members

I'll try to get pics posted. Not to smart on that. Didnt take it peronally. ("worthless")

Two hands on the flywheel screen should turn the engine in the normal clock-wise direction if there are no mechanical problems - with the spark plugs removed to eliminate compression. If you have a voltmeter connect it to the battery and observe the voltage before and while cranking or trying to run the starter. That is a load test of sorts. Garry

The previous owner sure was nice to give you his Wheel Horse! It sounds like you have two unrelated problems. The starter Bendix drive could be hung up or the brushes on the starter may not be making a good connection due to dirt build up or a bad spring. Pull the starter, clean it as best you can and bench test it. If it won't work you may want to take it to a good starter shop. The need to choke the carburetor could be caused by lots of things. If you have been using gas with ethanol in it I would start with a new fuel line, it could be coming apart inside causing you a headache. To find ethanol free gas go to buyrealgas.com and put in your zip code. Another place to look could be the fuel cap, it has a vent and if that is plugged the tank will be under a vacuum as fuel is used. Once you overcome the starter issues try running with the cap a little loose and see if the problem goes away, if so buy a new fuel cap. Hope this helps.

Mike, if I needed to borrow a lawnmower from you, and you loaned me one with a Techumseh on it...I would do the same thing. Of course the carburetor is on the deck, that is the first thing to go...and if I had the time to get the engine loose, it would become structure in a river and probably have a Bass hiding behind it. A good friend gave me a lawnmower with a tecky on it. At least I thought he was a good friend.....................................LOL

Great info Andy!

Andy...great information. Thanks I would send a PM to Wild Bill (BPjunk) concerning that WHCC News Letter. He is the guy that does the parades at the show, and if he does not have it, he would know who to go to for a copy. Hope that helps.

Cool information!

Have been meaning to post some pictures of my snow setup on the C160 for a while but hadn't got around to it. Finally have gotten to use it the past week or so, although after last winter I am certainly not complaining about having fewer opportunities to push snow so far this year. My setup for snow is some old Firestone "Town & Country" 6-12's that came with my 854 on the rear, and some surplus snow blower tires on the front. I've got some Wards wheel weights on the rear and WH weights on the front, plus a couple suitcase weights tucked into the rear for good measure. The blade is actually a newer 48" blade with a 5-position sector I came across, which I much prefer to the 42" / 3 position one I used on my old C120. On the recommendation from someone on here, I bought a pair of Cree 18W LED spot lights for the front (love them!), and put them on a mount I built to attach to the front hitch. I also added a set of LED strobes to make sure I can be seen. After using a Deere 140 H3 last year with a hyd lift/angle blade I was afraid I would regret getting rid of it and choosing the C160 as my snow mover for this year. I'm happy to report that so far, so good. I do wish it could lift the blade as high as the 140 could, but that is the only trade off I have experienced so far. The weights and skinny tires seem to work pretty well. They do spin on slick surfaces, but I think anything short of chains probably would. The tractor is much easier to steer than that 140 was, and so far haven't even come close to running out of power. I've actually been doing the neighbor's driveway to help him out and to get a little more seat time!