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Well it's been a while SINCE The Squonk has posted anything much about the Skonkfest 1267. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/52230-ist-annual-sqonkfest/ After arriving back here to Wheel Horse Plaza from The big show, I was armed with a few needed goodies. Skonk is a cantankerous old dude and was loud and rough around the edges like an old sailor at a SpongeBob film festival so some upgradin was needed. I put skinny ag's on by the way to fit Skonk through a door into my rear shop. Plus I added fine 7/16 bolts and lug nuts for easier tire changes. First big issue was how loud he was. Plowin snow at work with the K 301 echoing off the brick and glass was rather obnoxious. So the First order of business was a different exhaust. It started out with a pancake unit, I got a Gravely style muffler from Napa. I was a bit disappointed. These Napa units used to be a lot heavier construction but now they are light and flimsy like every other mower supplier has. I added a stainless stack from a bathroom handicap rail. Still too loud I had my welder friend billy Bob add a baffle into the stack. Much quieter and with some carb tinkering, quieter yet. Next order of business was adding a mid tach-a-matic so I can use my grader blade Hood hit the steering wheel when opened so the steering shaft was lengthened. Next was the seat. The seat on it looked good but wasn't a WH seat and I hate seats sittin right on the fender pan. Plus it was mounted with wood. So off to TSC on Father's day! Next was the battery box. The L & G battery was bouncing all over.. A block of wood was used to take up space in the battery box. The large box was also hitting the steering gear Used a smaller box. Wil get a better one someday. While I was in there, added a fuse holder to the always hot lighter/light circuit Found a neato front Tach-a-matic adapter for the early tractors at the show so I had to put it on. Now if I put the PTO back on I can run a deck blower or hook up my Generator! As you can see, the hood hinge holes were wallowed out and the shaft was shot along with the hood holes Billy Bob and the welder to the rescue What good are all these changes with out doing the lights? Added new reflectors and LED's from Wally World Gotta bee seen at night plowin so Napa supplied the rear LED tail Multi hitch capability Finally driving it It. With the quieter exhaust You could hear Skonk rattle like that sailor, So back to Billy where he reapaired a missing belt guard mount Don't know what the future will hold for Skonk. Right now it's going to be my primary mode of transport at the Steam Pageant. Still on the fence about a restore. There is about 50 lbs. of Industrial red/ Pink on this tractor. Like it got dropped into a vat. Maybe on it's 50th birthday I 'll do it up for the big show in 17

Picked up my first 3 seris this weekend, 310-8, runs great and came with a peco vac. Got this from the original owner, had all the manuals also came with a snow blade and a mid grader blade and a set of brand new bags for the vac.

Finally finished the 417. The seat came back from the upholstery shop late last week. (50 bucks and he did a really nice job on it)! Finished the rims in Rustoleum Metallic. Had to use the old tires though and I found I have two different tires up front and surprisingly, two different rims on it. I need all four tires on it and will wait a while to do it. I added pliable cups to the spindle tops and cut out the area where the cotter pin moves. This will help keep them clean. The governor still revs it up some at idle mid and full throttle so I have to delve into it next. (Not certain what that is all about). I think the PO has a NAPA belt on it and it grabs on the clutch release. It's just a hair too short. It turned out nice but now I have to put it in service! All I do is mow with the rain and temps we have had and the two I alternate with need a little break. (Doing three big lawns).

Purchased from a Red Square member a few months ago then hauled all the way from the big show by another Red Square member this 1045 serial #21858 is now making it's home in Minnesota. She looks tough but will get the full treatment, new heart is already awaiting to bring this one back to life.

Found this in Groveland Fla. got it for $180.00 no motor...so for now I will run the 6.5hp predator from harbor freight for $120.00 till I find the suitable replacement more to stock... 1965 L-105 with Ag tires brand new. It looks pretty small next to the C-81 After mounting the motor on at my shop my daughter couldnt wait long enough for me to get it off the truck before she wanted to jump on and take it for a ride... My daughter mowing her Grandmothers lawn on the 79 c-81

Steve it may be a 753 front axle is a 1963 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought it look really cool with The Duke's blower sittin in front of it!

Measurements are good too! Have welder, porta band, and lathe, ill make something, lmao

Bert thank you in advance for doing this. Theres a lot of wh around here, not like the mid west, but lots around us. Im a cub guy myself but own one horse. I work with a couple of guys that horse guys. Ill be loking for some pieces to put a tiller on a b80. I have the tiller, need the rest of the brackets. Also Ill ne looking for a steering wheel for my 61 nutroaster. Most of all just meeting other tractor wacos is alot of fun! this was one of 3 fields we did this spring.

Mike, you have been a very busy boy.

Plow day!?!?!?!? I like Plow days

Sounds good and I will. Drag as many friends as you can Ive been wanting to go to a plow day for awhile now, this could be a good chance to get the word out.

I'm hoping for some "senior moments" from you during football season. Oh I checked at work today Steve, Your room will be ready Monday!

No problem Richard...I really am having more senior moments then I like...it is going with the territory lately. I always have liked trying to figure out what horse someone has...I am probably about 3 wins and 257 losses. I'm looking for that hiding under the chair emoticon and I can't even find that. Yes, there certainly is some tricks to this system...it is not Corvettes. I just learned last week that they used up Clintons on the early 400 suburbans. If you kept track of all the differences between fenders, axles, welded towers, steering wheels, stamped frames, 2 piece gas tanks, foot rests, throttle cables, tool boxes and seats...you would have a 1000 post-it notes and still be wrong...maybe. Here is the deal...all together we are a good team...and right / wrong or close...I know I always learn something...the problem is trying to retain it. BTW...that is an interesting attachment for the rear end of that snow blade...looks like it bolts right on to the rear axle...I think it is home made. I am probably wrong about that not being factory also, but I have not seen anything like that yet.

That really does look nice! Might be time for a forward swept with some tri ribs up front and ags out back for my C-165...

Well it has been a little while since I last posted any pictures of my progress on my C165. Since my last photo update I've pretty much completed my refresh with the exception of the hood. Right now she is wearing a hood from a C125. So a rundown of everything I have done besides paint: 1) Rebuilt the engine, new Kohler rod, stator, and voltage regulator (all not cheap) 2) New carburetor 3) NOS PTO 4) Custom exhaust 5) Ag tires on all four wheels 6) Swept axle w/gear reduction steering 7) New steering wheel 8) New seat 9) Custom dash panels out of aluminum diamond plate - with tachometer, gas gauge, hour meter, and ammeter. 10) 12 volt power outlet and USB outlet to bring her to 21st century standards 11) 85% of the wiring replaced 12) LED lights front and rear 13) Custom 2" receiver I am sure there is more that I cannot think about at the moment. I just have to finish the hood before I install new decals and then I think I will have a great start to another thirty years of life. Not too bad for a worker!

I only have approximately an acre of grass but the Super C made really quick work of it today. So the beta test is a success. This is thing really is bigger than the standard version. I imagine you guys with the 520's and others with 60 inch decks have same experience. This may end up being more mower than I need but for now, it's great! Here is a after mowing pic.

Just bought this wheel horse anyone tell me anything about it. It runs and drives has a plow but no mower deck, needs a new rear tire other than that it's in great shape, planning on using it to plow my driveway with

Brilliant information! * Kelsey runs over to his WH C-100 manual and writes this down.*

Good afternoon everyone, my names Josh, just starting out on here special thanks to the two guys that corrected my improper postings on here. I'm glad to be here I'm hoping I can learn more about my wheelhorse and meet some great people

I just bought this wheel horse tractor, it runs and drives great. It came with a plow attachment. I'm planning on using it to plow my driveway. I would like to get a mower deck for it in the future, any help would be greatly appreciate.

Great! Now I can b#%*h at BMW, Lexus, Acura and now vintage Wheelhorse owners when they blind me at night! Nice work, Mike!

Van, Vince and I both post on this site every year about the plow day down in SC. You'll have to come next spring!

I'll bring it with me then. Those are nice looking tractors there

Here are a couple of more pictures. Planing to do a little yard work this fall. A pulverizer I built to plant grass.

As far as what is it worth...if you and the seller feel good about the deal, then that is all you need. If that horse starts and runs good a good deal is anywhere from free to ,maybe $250...you need some things so $250 is on the high side. The snow blade is worth around $150 and it looks like you have some scrapper blade left on the blade edge. You should be able to find a good mower deck for around $50 to $75.

Steve, it looks like Cecil Pond wanted to give us a little conundrum to deal with when he was assigning numbers to the 1962 herd. I was going from general nomenclature on '60s numbering and the "all years" chart but must yield to first hand owner information. Sorry about that,

Don't ask me why but I love the "Small Tire" 310-8. The 37 inch deck cuts Great too. The 315-8 GT Classic has 109 hours on it.

I'm thinking you have a 1962 Wheel Horse 702 there. 7 stands for the hsp of the Kohler, 0 stands for electric start, 2 stands for 1962. Any short frame snow blade will work, you need to find a belt guard (so you do not grind the gears when shifting, a 32" or 36" rear discharge mower deck will work also. If there is a serial number plate, it is under the amp gauge on the tower. It would look like 62-XXXXX. BTW...Welcome to Red Square

That appears to be the inside top of the case, those holes would be 2 of the upper chassis mounting bolts located under the seat.

It's no problem. Happens all the time. Just go to the home page and pick a category, in your case 'Wheel Horse Tractors'. Near the top is a start new topic button. Click that, give your topic a title and have at it.

Eureka! Lawn cutting succes with the super C. Albeit only a couple passes. The real test will be in a few days when the lawn requires a cut. I replaced the Clutch and bearings on the PTO. Also found an old thread where Baerpath suggested roughing the friction material as it had glazed appearance and followed suit. Now the deck cuts like a dream! Still getting used used to the higher center of gravity. I am starting the thread by i-phone for first time and will try and upload the pic of the C195 at work....since lawn was under control. Also my c161 and one of the GT14's.....

That'll make a nice one, Tom. I'll be watching for the thread on it.

I had a similar problem with a wheel on a SK-486. The tube that the bearing slides into was split. on the inside only. I pressed a 1-1/2" ID rod stop collar over the tubing and it worked well. Loctite makes a product for ill-fitting parts but have never used it. If the tubing is not split I would try JB weld. Get the parts spotless with solvent or Brakeclean. Apply a very thin layer inside the tube and a thicker layer on the bearing OD. Then turn the bearing as you push it in to spead the material around evenly. You don't want to have much excess on the inside when you are finished because there is no way to remove it. Let us know what you do. Garry

and only 2 doors! Heck no real ones have 6 tires, 4 doors and diesels

No worries... just bring it home.

Welcome, if there's no spark its probelly dirty points. Kohler's are prone to it when sat for a while, points are located in a little plastic box, on the front of the engine below the carb, don't do what I did and assume they are under the flywheel. Lot of hassle for nothing that was!

Hey guys I'm new here, but I figured I would share my project I have going on. My neighbor was going to take his old c-100 to the land fill and I asked him about it, he said if I wanted it, it was mine. So I picked up for free! I have a 520-H that I'm pulling the onan off of and using it to power the c-100. My later plans are to put the hydrostatic rear end under the c-100 too. Yes the 520 was in perfect running shape, but I never was fond of that body style, so I'm building one!

Found the problem... belt was installed improperly and also there was an improperly installed bolt and or bushing missing on lift arm. after replacing and double checking everything works great!

Do you mean aftermarket parts? I have found that most aftermarket parts are just as good, and much less expensive. There will be others that disagree with me, but that is my experience and opinion.

Safety switches? Key switch? Solenoid? If you use your jump cables directly on the solenoid and it cranks, that rules out the solenoid and starter. You can jump the safety switches with a paperclip or piece of wire and do them one at a time with a test start in between each to isolate which switch has an issue if there is one.

The connecting rod end cap is installed wrong. Oil hole should be facing the cam. Most likely worn rod and crank pin from lack of lubrication. If it were me, I would take the engine down completely and check everything and plan on a total rebuild because the damage is done. You are lucky the rod didn't let go.

Looks like you have a badly worn Rod. Good thing you caught it before something bad happen. The other noise, not sure of. Could be a broke cam or s well worn cam. Kinda hard for me to tell from video. Kohlers are very forgiving, but when they get way out of tolerance even they will give up and let you know with noises and big bangs.

Adding to Dave's post 6) check each deck spindle with the belt " off " turning each pulley by hand and feel for drag from a seized bearing .

1.) The PTO-to-Deck belt has to be on the INNER-MOST 'V' of the PTO pulley...that is, the V closest to the engine. 2.) Use only the OEM belt (s/b 102742) The aftermarket belts do not EXACTLY match the contour of the Wheelhorse V pulleys leading to drag & premature failure 3.) Either straighten that pulley, or replace it. (I have replacement pulley7s for 42 or 48 " decks). 4.) Check BOTH of the idler pulleys on the MULE DRIVE. If either one drags at all, or wobbles more than little, replace it (I have those too). 5.) Are you CERTAIN that the deck is hung correctly? There is a right and a wrong way to hang it. Check with the DECK manuals on-line in this forum.

Hi Paul, 2500 degree, (yea, right), ceramic Rust-oleum in a plain Jane metallic/aluminum finish. I cured it in one of our drying ovens where I work! I don't know how well it will hold up. I just need to do the wheels, change out the tires and get my seat back. I have some orange peel on the paint job but it's a lot better than some I have seen! I'll post a pic of the re-upholstered seat when I get it back.

stuppy can you post some pics that are MORE CLEAR? especially needed, the one of the inside of the port. thank you. boomer ( the used onan engine parts guy, also NOS and new )

I don't have a picture, but the tow valve is on the left side of the transmission behind the fender pan facing forward. Should be a slotted bolt for a screwdriver.

MY ADVISE IS..... PUT THEM IN THE BOX'S I WILL SEND YOU GET THEM OUT OF THE GARAGE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.. I WILL TAKE IT FROM THERE..... YOU MIGHT THANK ME LATER..,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PROBABLY NOT !!!

You need to re-shim the steering shaft where it goes through the fan assembly... lay on your back and follow the shaft from the front axle backwards. You wiill see where it goes through the fan and there will be a stack of thin shims/washers and a cotter pin. You need to remove the cotter pin and add a few shims to tighten the fan gear to steering wheel gear gap. I usually pry gently backwards on the shaft in the area between the front axle and frame with a screwdriver to get it tight and allow me to shove the cotter pin home. It will be good as new after that... you can buy thin shims/washers with a 3/4" hole at any decent hardware store. Tony