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Who said I'm lookin' for a "real" truck?

Was A great little show. Got to meet Tom & Jason and see some neat stuff. Lots of cool Cases if thats your thing. Definitely will go to next years and hopefully breing a horse or two. Missed meeting Stevasaurus tho .... somethin about havin to go back to IL cause they needed his Cutler jersey for (target?) practice at Bears training camp.... Here were a few of my favorites.

Your brother would look good on my 520H w/60" deck!!!....yep, I've still got it in the Horse Barn....could be one of your "six" (trailer load)

I only have approximately an acre of grass but the Super C made really quick work of it today. So the beta test is a success. This is thing really is bigger than the standard version. I imagine you guys with the 520's and others with 60 inch decks have same experience. This may end up being more mower than I need but for now, it's great! Here is a after mowing pic.

Finally finished the 417. The seat came back from the upholstery shop late last week. (50 bucks and he did a really nice job on it)! Finished the rims in Rustoleum Metallic. Had to use the old tires though and I found I have two different tires up front and surprisingly, two different rims on it. I need all four tires on it and will wait a while to do it. I added pliable cups to the spindle tops and cut out the area where the cotter pin moves. This will help keep them clean. The governor still revs it up some at idle mid and full throttle so I have to delve into it next. (Not certain what that is all about). I think the PO has a NAPA belt on it and it grabs on the clutch release. It's just a hair too short. It turned out nice but now I have to put it in service! All I do is mow with the rain and temps we have had and the two I alternate with need a little break. (Doing three big lawns).

Purchased from a Red Square member a few months ago then hauled all the way from the big show by another Red Square member this 1045 serial #21858 is now making it's home in Minnesota. She looks tough but will get the full treatment, new heart is already awaiting to bring this one back to life.

That is just glorious! If I had to give up my 520's, I would want a C-195.

When the points are open the voltage at the coil (-) should be battery voltage. When the points are closed the voltage at the (-) coil side should be 0 volts. Remove the spark plug so you can turn the engine over by hand and watch the voltage. The voltage should cycle once for every two turns of the crankshaft. If it still stays at 0 volts while turning the engine over the points are not opening or shorted, the wire from the coil to the points is shorted to the engine block or tinwork or the condenser is shorted internally which can be heat related. Garry

Personally, if I had gotten a NOS onan, I would unbolt the pan and both heads to visually inspect it. Don't run it until you have to. There will be fuel sitting in the carb and oil getting old sitting in the pan (yes oil breaks down with just time and no use). I would open it up, spray it all with a light oil, close it up wrap it up and put it in climate controlled storage until you decide to use it. Have a set of new gaskets on hand and open it up one more time before you use it and check it all over for surface rust then throw your new gaskets on, torque the bolts, fill'er up and go! You can run through the proper break in period without a huge amount of time passing. I have no scientific evidence for this, just my thoughts.

Well I'm the new owner of a 314H with 278 hours on the meter Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Yeah, you're gonna want to bolt that sucker down! There was a thread a while back in "engines" regarding bench testing an Onan. Do a search and it will show up.

and only 2 doors!

After talkin to Shynon (Tom) and Jason this past weekend I have decided NOT to restore it but leave as is. Going to get the cloride out of the front tires and replace them. Very carefully powerwash as to not blast anymore paint off and get the motor running. Hopefully got some motor essentials coming from a guy in Idaho. Keep ya'll posted with plenty of pics! Thanks for the tip on "oiling the horses" Tom, will definitly do it to the deck. Keep in touch...if I should happen to die in a motorcycle crash come and get it, It's yours free, I feel maybe just a little bit guilty about rustling it across the border & It would look nice in your fine herd.....

I got lucky and found this beautiful 701 at the Garden tractor daze show in portage wi. It is complete with a few minor wrong parts. Looking forward to restoring this one seeing how I have been trying to peice one together for a couple years now. I guess that means I'll have spare parts

check your oil level I think this machine has the oil switch in the motor base that is the only thing that will make your relay click the relay is normally closed for starting the oil level switch is normally open if the oil switch closes and allows 12 volt to go thru it to the single connector on the relay it will open the points inside the relay that's the clicking sound you hear try unplugging the single connector on the relay and see if she starts Brian

If it's anything like my 416-H, there is quite a bit of disassembly required to remove it or even get a wrench in there to snug fittings. The front plate where the fuse block and relays mount prevent even visual access. Don't know what the engineers were thinking when they designed the 400 series.

Guys count me in! I would also really like to see more WH at my plow day, 2 hrs from where this meet and greet is being held. Ill drag mowing man and a few others with me!

The tractor was almost a hour away and I was not able to work on it but I have it at home now and I will be able to use it and work on it when I want.

It's cheesy but for those who have an FEL with the crossbeam above the dash...................well, it was three bucks at Walmart and though it's not Wheelhorse red, it is reddish and what the h#*l anyway!

Looks like a great project that's a cool model. Looking forward to more pics

The GT-14 blades 1969-1973 came in 2 packages. A 54" blade and the A-frame completing kit. The kit was the same one used for the long frame tractors and their blade at the time was 42" wide. The kit numbers are 6-4112 and 6-4113 The 54" blade numbers are 6-9611 and 6-9612. In 1974-1975 there was a 56" blade 6-1151 that I suspect could be used on the GT-14 but was listed for the 16hp long frame models at the time. I don't know if this one was 56" or was a typo and should be 54". A search of the manuals files should bring them all up. If the blade you are looking at is 42" or 48" wide they are the most popular and very common. Garry

Looks to be a 1996 Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Just picked up my lift cable for my 953 from Wheelhorseman1000. He can make custom lengths and these things are strong! He really did his research on these and made a couple improvements like a plastic lined cable tube. Just wanted to share these and say thanks Lowell!

The other factor is how deep and how wet is the snow? You can push light snow up to about 8" with just about anything. But heavy, wet snow over about 4" is a different story.

Brian nailed this one! The switch is bad. I have plenty of oil in it but that switch is open in the oil sump. Disconnected the single terminal and it fired. Please see my next post. :< ( (Not charging). Well, I guess you get what you paid for and 50 bucks wasn't bad for this!

Your Welcome 312-8 fan, ramble on if you like Never thought of having a balance between show & work for a horse before but I have a feeling alot of guys here have. Thanks for the link Tank, I see your alergy to slop is acting up..... going to see if I can find a kit with some of the common sizes & different thicknesses horses use...save a trip to parts places that way....

ya, I am with you on that after thinking more through. Trying to put a coating on something at this point would likely end up a futile effort. I see your point on what Wheel Horse's logic likely was.

I like the grease gun 'specially with grandsons doin' the work. Keeps them busy. Have heard remove the inner seal on the bearings so grease can get in, leave the outer seals on. Makes sense to me. Thrust washers are a must to keep slop out. I like these and keep some stock, always. https://qbcbearings.com/BuyRFQ/ThrustB_Washer_SL_SB_I.htm# As noted above, water 'n dust in the wheel isn't good. Filled with grease is.

This topic just blew my mind as far as seals and bearings. I'm a novice in some ways when it comes to actually using bearings and seals, replacing them and also how to replace them and crossing them over. I've worked parts counter before and was fairly good at crossing over bearings, races, seals etc. Sadly, never got much hands on experience installing them though. I agree with the mess. My dad's 312-8 always made a mess up front with the front spindles, but at least you knew there was grease in there. He was always good about greasing it. Never thought about playing with the notion of installing a different bearing that would allow for grease seals thus giving you a "sealed bearing". I never considered that simply adding a grease or oil seal on either end of a bearing would make it sealed. I guess I thought a sealed bearing was an entity to itself. Anyway, I think I rambled a bit there, but I appreciate this post. Makes me want to find the perfect balance between work and show for my 312-8. I love this forum. Great place to learn stuff.

Though there was nothing major wrong with the machine before the engine failure, there were several "personality" issues it possessed. Things like safety switches not always activating, stray rattles and loose components, etc. It's nice to jump on the machine and with the turn of the key, off you go. Very refreshing indeed. Funny thing is that the last few weekends, while working in the yard, I've had several people pass by the house, turn around at the next street, and head back to pull into my driveway, just to take a closer look. Surprising how many people still long for the days, and recognize the quality, of these machines.

Hey guys I'm new here, but I figured I would share my project I have going on. My neighbor was going to take his old c-100 to the land fill and I asked him about it, he said if I wanted it, it was mine. So I picked up for free! I have a 520-H that I'm pulling the onan off of and using it to power the c-100. My later plans are to put the hydrostatic rear end under the c-100 too. Yes the 520 was in perfect running shape, but I never was fond of that body style, so I'm building one!

If you are going to be mowing big yards with hills and such, I suggest you look for a twin cylinder wheel horse. This will be 16, 17, 18 or 20 horse power. Nice and smooth with plenty of power to spin a hydro and 48" deck.

Tractor Part Mart has that bearing for $14.28 last time I looked. I need to order one and replace it now while the weather is warm.

I've been driving Tacoma's since 1999, over the years I've owned a little of everything - my '99 Tacoma had 137k miles on it and the moter ran and looked like new - never had one problem with it - wife drives a 2005 Corolla with over 136k on it and it's never had a problem - today I'm in a '11 Tacoma and so far it's also a very dependable truck . I know what problems/ garage bills I've had with Fords , Chevy's , VW'S etc vs the last 16 years in Toyota's and there's no comparison - it was actually a trans/motor problem in a GMC with 13k miles that put me on a Toyota lot in '99 . Now my 2011 is geared more towards luxury with all the bells and whistles ( which we no longer have a choice in ) than my '99 it's been a good truck.

Sounds like this is the place to start. Garry

Tow valve not closed?

They are not even broke in yet. Be shure to use the tow/haul switch. It will extend the life of the transmission. We currently have 7 tundras in our fleet. One had to have a transmission rebuilt from not using tow/haul switch. We start looking at replacements at around 300,000 miles. This trucks are used to haul and tow alot.

Do you mean aftermarket parts? I have found that most aftermarket parts are just as good, and much less expensive. There will be others that disagree with me, but that is my experience and opinion.

That's one way to get the loader "float" setting to work!

Bob, it sounds like you've got a good grip on what suits YOUR needs at the present time. I had biggies for years since I was pulling boats and many RV's up to 38' long. I just don't need one now. I can't comment on the Toyota 4.0 but I love the 4.0 in my Ranger. It is a lighter truck than the Toyota though.

Five Illinois plates from various years and one Ohio plate will ship tomorrow I'm glad to contribute! Yeah, What's up with "The Ohio State" colors? The Ohio plate is White with Blue lettering! Go figure.

Also Toyota and Nissan have great resale value Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I had a 3/4 ton Suburban back in Illinois when I was selling fire apparatus. It was great on the highway but I had to plan where I was parking though. Multi level car parks were the worse as I had to find a spot that I could drive straight into. When I went looking for my current pickup, I wasn't comfortable in the regular cab so I went with the extended cab with the 6-1/2 foot bed. It will hold a yard of mulch and if need be, one tractor. For parking in crowded lots, I back into the space and hang the back end over the curb. Then I don't stick out from the other vehicles. I have found Toyota's to be one of the more reliable vehicles.

Yesterday I had the chance to just "get out of the house." My wife and I had lunch at a smaller "Five Guys" further North that was accessible for me. A trip to TSC was also included with her doing the running! Along the way, they were harvesting wheat down here as well.

Make sure you pack your Wisconsin state bird repellent. They're big and hungry this year.

Get the biggest you can afford and your wiring can handle. You never have too much air when blasting!

Thanks Prondzy, now more research on how many different lengths they made. Here is a picture of a few

thanks, as long as the end result is good and the weld is strong, it doesn't matter what the actual weld looks like. for a comparison of before and after take a look at my old profile picture: Callum

I bought 100 ball bearings from McMaster I don't even bother to look for the stupid little detent balls when they shoot out and roll away!!!