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Who said I'm lookin' for a "real" truck?

Was A great little show. Got to meet Tom & Jason and see some neat stuff. Lots of cool Cases if thats your thing. Definitely will go to next years and hopefully breing a horse or two. Missed meeting Stevasaurus tho .... somethin about havin to go back to IL cause they needed his Cutler jersey for (target?) practice at Bears training camp.... Here were a few of my favorites.

Your brother would look good on my 520H w/60" deck!!!....yep, I've still got it in the Horse Barn....could be one of your "six" (trailer load)

I only have approximately an acre of grass but the Super C made really quick work of it today. So the beta test is a success. This is thing really is bigger than the standard version. I imagine you guys with the 520's and others with 60 inch decks have same experience. This may end up being more mower than I need but for now, it's great! Here is a after mowing pic.

Finally finished the 417. The seat came back from the upholstery shop late last week. (50 bucks and he did a really nice job on it)! Finished the rims in Rustoleum Metallic. Had to use the old tires though and I found I have two different tires up front and surprisingly, two different rims on it. I need all four tires on it and will wait a while to do it. I added pliable cups to the spindle tops and cut out the area where the cotter pin moves. This will help keep them clean. The governor still revs it up some at idle mid and full throttle so I have to delve into it next. (Not certain what that is all about). I think the PO has a NAPA belt on it and it grabs on the clutch release. It's just a hair too short. It turned out nice but now I have to put it in service! All I do is mow with the rain and temps we have had and the two I alternate with need a little break. (Doing three big lawns).

Purchased from a Red Square member a few months ago then hauled all the way from the big show by another Red Square member this 1045 serial #21858 is now making it's home in Minnesota. She looks tough but will get the full treatment, new heart is already awaiting to bring this one back to life.

That is just glorious! If I had to give up my 520's, I would want a C-195.

When the points are open the voltage at the coil (-) should be battery voltage. When the points are closed the voltage at the (-) coil side should be 0 volts. Remove the spark plug so you can turn the engine over by hand and watch the voltage. The voltage should cycle once for every two turns of the crankshaft. If it still stays at 0 volts while turning the engine over the points are not opening or shorted, the wire from the coil to the points is shorted to the engine block or tinwork or the condenser is shorted internally which can be heat related. Garry

Personally, if I had gotten a NOS onan, I would unbolt the pan and both heads to visually inspect it. Don't run it until you have to. There will be fuel sitting in the carb and oil getting old sitting in the pan (yes oil breaks down with just time and no use). I would open it up, spray it all with a light oil, close it up wrap it up and put it in climate controlled storage until you decide to use it. Have a set of new gaskets on hand and open it up one more time before you use it and check it all over for surface rust then throw your new gaskets on, torque the bolts, fill'er up and go! You can run through the proper break in period without a huge amount of time passing. I have no scientific evidence for this, just my thoughts.

Well I'm the new owner of a 314H with 278 hours on the meter Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Yeah, you're gonna want to bolt that sucker down! There was a thread a while back in "engines" regarding bench testing an Onan. Do a search and it will show up.

and only 2 doors!

After talkin to Shynon (Tom) and Jason this past weekend I have decided NOT to restore it but leave as is. Going to get the cloride out of the front tires and replace them. Very carefully powerwash as to not blast anymore paint off and get the motor running. Hopefully got some motor essentials coming from a guy in Idaho. Keep ya'll posted with plenty of pics! Thanks for the tip on "oiling the horses" Tom, will definitly do it to the deck. Keep in touch...if I should happen to die in a motorcycle crash come and get it, It's yours free, I feel maybe just a little bit guilty about rustling it across the border & It would look nice in your fine herd.....

I got lucky and found this beautiful 701 at the Garden tractor daze show in portage wi. It is complete with a few minor wrong parts. Looking forward to restoring this one seeing how I have been trying to peice one together for a couple years now. I guess that means I'll have spare parts

check your oil level I think this machine has the oil switch in the motor base that is the only thing that will make your relay click the relay is normally closed for starting the oil level switch is normally open if the oil switch closes and allows 12 volt to go thru it to the single connector on the relay it will open the points inside the relay that's the clicking sound you hear try unplugging the single connector on the relay and see if she starts Brian

If it's anything like my 416-H, there is quite a bit of disassembly required to remove it or even get a wrench in there to snug fittings. The front plate where the fuse block and relays mount prevent even visual access. Don't know what the engineers were thinking when they designed the 400 series.

Guys count me in! I would also really like to see more WH at my plow day, 2 hrs from where this meet and greet is being held. Ill drag mowing man and a few others with me!

The tractor was almost a hour away and I was not able to work on it but I have it at home now and I will be able to use it and work on it when I want.

I need some help identifying this WH. I'm working on learning the details to look for, so here's what I see! The hood stand is solid. The front axle is swept across the width and swept back. The lines on the top of the hood seem to fade out and not go all the way back it has a solid seat pan. The extra frame space in front of the hood looks too long? so would that make it a 1960 Suburban 400 or 401, or could it be an RJ? it's in poor shape, but maybe a parts tractor, or the start of an RJ restore. is the hole to the back left of the hood not factory? it's been for sale for a while, and I'm about ready to check if the price is getting a lot more negotiable

Couple weeks ago I saw something I could not pass up. 1998 Sovereign that had been garage kept. Came with the rear collection system, all belt shields, and deflector shields, 42" snow blower, chains, weights, and all manuals. I used the bagger system twice, works great, but I noticed the left side of the deck drooping a bit, so I took the bagger off. Washed, waxed, and detailed, and now it is ready for a parade. It is a (2) owner, me being number (2), tractor. The original owner had an acre of land it was used on since new. I am guessing it may have around 500hrs total. It cleaned up very nice, but I did notice some areas he had probably never cleaned. Around the right rear diff. it was caked with built up dirt and grease. < I am guessing he just kept putting grease in and never wiped off the excess. Also the outer air element was loaded with debris. The actual air filter was not as bad as what the outer looked. Runs like a champ. I am looking for a cab though. Anyone have any leads! Rob.

Hello I have just collected my latest eBay bargain, a 70's Wheelhorse tractor which is badged as a Commando 800 and the ID plate says its a Model 1-0141 Serial No 145691 made in Amnor Belgium, I just looked up the model number 1-0141 and that corresponds to a 1975 B80. Was the B80 sold as the more macho sounding Commando 800 in the UK? Good bits: It's all thereKohler engine spins on the electric startTin work has no holes Bad bitsRotten tyresNo spark (yet)Can't get it into 1st or reverse but 2 and 3 select easily, any ideas about how major this is? I'm going to concentrate on getting it running and then the tarting up can start.

Eureka! Lawn cutting succes with the super C. Albeit only a couple passes. The real test will be in a few days when the lawn requires a cut. I replaced the Clutch and bearings on the PTO. Also found an old thread where Baerpath suggested roughing the friction material as it had glazed appearance and followed suit. Now the deck cuts like a dream! Still getting used used to the higher center of gravity. I am starting the thread by i-phone for first time and will try and upload the pic of the C195 at work....since lawn was under control. Also my c161 and one of the GT14's.....

I will soon as I can I'm still at work Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

From what I remember when I changed out my single pulley for the double you have in the picture, I think since you have the set screws out you may need to soak the shaft the best you can with a PB Blast or some other penetrating oil and carefully use a gear puller on it. If you have the room remove the set screws all together and spray the penetrating oil down into the holes on the shaft. Good Luck!

You can bring it to my house and I'll test it for a few years! OK maybe not! I tested two Onans on my work bench after decarboning them and discovering a valve issue on one. You will see it's quite easy to do. (As stated above, search for the thread on bench testing an Onan). The hard part was keeping it on the bench and all I did was use C-clamps on the oil sump bolts holes using thick rubber gasketing between the clamp and the aluminum. (You don't want to tighten them down too tight or those tabs will snap). Make sure its a solid surface beneath the tabs. Some flat stock under them will make sure you don't stress them. I just clamped the two of the four hole tabs that faced me on the bench leaving the two in the back open. (PTO side facing me). It held it very well. I used a small oil reservoir, (holds a pint), to keep gasoline to the fuel pump.

Traction and gear ratio are the main considerations in pushing snow, lots of RJs and Suburbans have pushed snow without problems, slow but steady.

That may be part of my not charging issue also. Thanks!

You are correct RMC....they had one cart and two balers...My bad.

finally got around to putting the pictures up, as you can see the gearbox looks pretty heavy duty and heavy duty it is! I've just got to get that steel plate cut and bent now. with regards to my hitch lift who can spot my stupid mistake? no prizes by the way! thanks for looking, callum

As a kid I pushed snow in the Upstate NY snow belt with a 6 HP Tecky. Of course I ruined a few along the way.

You likely have something else wrong also. The low oil relay should not be powered with the key turned to OFF. It is powered by the S terminal of the ignition switch in the start position only. Garry

Steve #1) You Rock #2) You Tube rocks. hahaha #3) I never would have torn into my Uni-Drive with out the help of this forum. I have the halves in the back of my truck. I'll run them through the parts washer after work tonight. Brush them up best I can and all that I guess I was just expecting more of an Epoxy type transmission lining in there like I see all the time in the big Case IH tractors and IH tractors in the shop. Something that would keep things a bit more "sterile" in there. Also, the Hytran that runs in so many of those trannies is designed to absorb like 200% (or some ridiculous percentage) of it's volume in water alone and still keep it's lubricating capacity in spec. It would probably be way too much work to put a coating like that inside the casing. Any one tried? JRC, thanks for the idea with the set screw. I think I'll grab one from parts and tap it out. It's up against the back plate of the frame anyway so it can't get in too much trouble.

No way! I understand the whole brand loyalty thing but sometimes you have to take the blinders off. I'll bring my JD 318 over to SteveBo's meet & greet and let anyone who wants to try it. I would say it compares to the 520 & 522XI. The big advantage is the real live hydraulics. I've driven a ton of garden tractors of all types and brands and as far I'm concerned the 318 is the overall best. Even used beat up 318s with like 1500 hours are still selling for over $1500 all day long. Ones in the condition and low hours like mine are commanding like $2800! No green junk at my meet and greet.... lol

Nice find, looks like a great start to a restoration

There are some videos and some excellent threads concerning the 8 speed trans in the Reference/Transmission section on the main page...this is one of the good ones... I had my #1533 ball bearing fall apart inside one of my trannys...it kind of sounds to me like you may have the same thing going on. There are 12 of those 1/4" balls in one of those bearings and they just love to get trapped in the teeth of the gears. I would not keep rolling yours around. Drop it and open it up...you want the shallow side of the tranny down when you split it. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/17947-idiots-guide-to-8-spd-trans-rebuild/

Here ya go...I did some videos of an 8 speed trans...the only difference is this has the 10 pinion differential...it should help you a lot. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/49386-6-speed-5060-10-pinion-ls-trans-rebuild/

So, sell that green thing... for profit instead.

Hope to see you there. With the feedback and support I've gotten so far I think this location will fill a void in the region As Ive said to others feel free to send any suggestions my way or post them here. Thanks Bert

Glad to meet another , Linder- And thanks to Bert for posting your picture! Linda

here is the belt arrangement.

Wasn't that when the ol' Kohler... sneezed, and you lost twenty laps?

The mystery steering box from Chris turned up.early last week Thanks mate The mystery part turned out to be Austin A30/35, thanks for that Max if your reading this Getting the Pitman arm off the steering box is a whole story in it's self.. Involving a hub puller, zip ties and a huge amount of heat! Once the arm was off the splines the next challenge was getting a large nut off the shaft, this didn't quite go according to plan when the end of the threaded bit on the shaft sheered off right where the split pin holes are/were. As the shaft needs extending a little bit this wasn't a problem. So will it fit? with the aid of a pair of scissors this were looking good.. New and old steering box.. The box bit of the new one is certainly a bit smaller.. Trial fit time. The box is at the right height it just needs to go back a bit or there wouldn't be any room for the new Pitman arm to swing. To get the column up though the top of the dash I needed to make a hole a bit bigger, so I quickly spun up this bung on the lathe. It fit's like so.. The small hole is for the "drill bit" bit of the cutter to slot into. Letting the dash cool down halfway through the cut. The amount of swarf that came out was amazing! A big hole.. With a bit of the body mount sliced out.. And the bottom of the dash surround notched a bit.. The steering box ended up right where I wanted it.. The steering box mount taking shape. That should work well The mount has now had two captive bolts and one captive nut added.. Both ends have been boxed in and the welds cleaned up, I just forgot to take any photos of it.. Likewise I have made a start on shortening the steering column but also forgot to take any photos.. I'd best remember tomorrow

I picked up the cab and although it isn't in condition I expected it was still a good deal for $75.00. The rear window is shot and the front supports need to be repaired or replaced but the rest is in good condition. The only modification that I will need to do or at least the only one I can see before trying to put it on the 418-8 is to make a hole for the crank to turn the blower chute.

I will gladly join when the debit card/credit card payment option is viable. Since it costs money to pay by card I would be open to a two tiered price schedule. $15 for debit/credit and $10 for cash or check if $10 is still the membership fee.

Thanks guys ......I got mine off of ebay Pacer... you can find them just about anywhere tho, Just google or ebay the part no 110513. I thought i saw a bearing & seal cross reference chart by a member on here but can't find it now, don't know if the were on there or not. I think they were about 15 bucks for four of them. Quality not the best tho, made in china all over them. Make sure you ask if they are sealed tho if thats what you are lookin for. These the Inner seals pop in & out real easy with a dental pick and the inner one is pretty cheesy. Definitely not high speed so don't put them on your drag racing tractor. Next time i'll pop for the better 10 clams a piece ones that doc724 mentioned. I can't believe that a grease gun would push them out Garry ...I had to pound the snot out of them to get them out Maynards got a good point too, I wash or at least hose down my 246h damn near after every mowing and this is one of my work tractors. Toro guy i used to get parts from loved me cause i was always in for stuff that was rusted because of water infiltration from my analness. I even put the deck wash fitting on a couple of my machines. Probably not a good idea less ya like changing spindle bearings... damned if ya do and damned if ya don't kind of thing.

i had no idea,,,,you could get sealed bearings..... Wow,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,now i gottah find them..... no more greasy front wheels....anjd i like the allen plug screw in the zert hole..... first thing on my tractors ARE the front wheels...... thank-you Horse people...good advice,,,,i just hope they come with chips and a drink.......

didn't get much done today, not much i can do until i get the 90 degree box. I did make the adapter so i can use my Colwood mono tractor implements with my WH. i got these on the cheap but to be honest I'm not entirely sure what this implement does! i think it is for removing weeds from between rows of crops. thats what the seller said but he wasn't 100% on that either. I've got some other bits a pieces al well. the important thing about using Colwood bits on my WH is that i wouldn't have to modify the colwood implements in anyway which i have got away with. if some one could post a picture of how the clevis hitch lift works that would be great, I've got to start making mine but i don't know how its done as standard. i will be getting some bolts that are more suitable. callum

And chasing one of the little balls across the garage floor trying to stop it before it finds the exact geographic center of the truck parked in there.