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Figured i would start a new thread on this tractor. I gave it a bath the other day and today I figured I would just give it a quick coat of wax to see how it looks before I degrease everything underneath "not that there's a lot under there". I bought this tractor with the intention of cleaning it up and selling it but I am really beginning to like it. At 400 hours it's like a new machine. Really not sure what I will do with it. Storage space is always at a premium so we'll see what happens. I knew it needed a new PTO switch so I ordered an OEM Toro one. The front hood decal has some big scrapes in it and the left side 315-8 sticker is missing half of it so I am going to order new ones. The cup holder has a couple of cracks so I will order a new replacement for that also. The left footrest is just starting to bubble at the edge which I assume is from water sitting under the plastic. New OEM footrests are still available from Toro for $65. Otherwise that's all it needs besides a nice buff job and some detailing. The 48" deck is still in the back of my truck. Going to pull that out and clean the underside then wash and wax it.

If you substitute the name Kolher or Briggs or Kawasaki for Tecumseh, your post sounds identical to 90% of the other posts in the engine category, Troubleshoot the symptoms, and ignore the pissing and moaning regarding what name is on the engine.

Here are a few pictures of the plates I collected from some of you guys at the Big Show and other places. I will be mailing these to Koen ( C-101plowerpower ) in the Netherlands this week. Thanks all that made this possible...it is quite a collection.

I just picked up this gt 14 from another current member its all straight but been repainted many years back . I am going to give it a refresh . Hope you all enjoy my pictures Did some weldinat the shop to both fenders same spots stress cracks . Prep time Paint time . Im happy with outcome !

Here's the photos the little I've used it. It is in need of a tune up because I think it had been sitting a while it's not bad the deck is a little rough I'll post after pics of it once it's cleaned up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Knobs and final engine and deck decals installed. All decals by Denny Clarke and http://www.RedoYourHorse.com! Finally done!

Well I been looking for a Loader for my Wheel horse D tractor now for awhile and finally found one. Drove 4 hours to Ohio to get it and seems pretty solid with alot of potential for a good project. Little confuse on the rear of the tractor has brakes and foot pedals like the D200 tractor. I have a feeling it is a Mixed D tractor...

Just picked this craftsman up believe it to be a early 60's cannot find any info for sure though, has a strange wind up lever on motor then a release lever to start instead of a pull start but don't see any other tags with the body on it other than 6 hp. pretty cool looking though.

That trans actually looks pretty clean. I don't think you have to press out the bearings, just be careful when you rinse them and real careful if you blow them dry with an air hose. Then oil them a little with some 90wt oil. The needles should stay in the shell. On that plug, I would just pull out the fork shafts, detente balls and spring with the stop in it, then just drill it out with a 1/4" drill bit...a 3/16" drill bit just may grab it out for you. Don't put a plug back in, just do a finger of grease or maybe a touch of silicone calk. I think you should put the forks back on the shafts before you pull the shafts out of the case, just to make sure you have them mounted correctly. It is easy to get them turned around wrong.

I had an Illinois plate the was my Dad's. It had "DBMIGF" on it...it stood for "Don't Bother Me, I'm Going Fishing". My daughter was over here and she spotted it and latched onto it. I'll take them John, If you want to send them to me. Thanks Mike, the Michigan plates used to be those colors. They are pretty heavy...I have a feeling this is going to cost some bucks.

Surprised the Michigan plates aren't Blue/ yellow/gold Just for the heck of it., Tell us how much all that weighed when you send it.

I might be able to swing down there as well! Keep us updated as time gets closer.

The HH100 is a good engine, don't get discouraged. I have two onans , two kohlers and two tecumsehs. All of them at one time or another have needed a bit of tinkering. I have a diverse herd and usually prefer to use the HH100 powered custom worker. Its reliable powerful and revs like a briggs but will chug down low like a kohler. If you can put up a few pics of your current carb/fuel pump setup Id be happy to try to help. thanks

Glad to meet another , Linder- And thanks to Bert for posting your picture! Linda

E30P coil data off an internet search shows primary resistance is 1.30-1.50 ohms and secondary is 7,700-9,500 ohms. Primary coil resistance under 3 ohms DEFINITELY REQUIRES AN EXTERNAL RESISTOR. Measure the primary resistance of the new coil before you buy / install it.

I got everything painted and ready to go(except a few small parts are not done yet). I just need 1 more coat of paint on the fenders and hood and we will be in good shape. Transmission is going back together tomorrow and a few other things. I got some amazing lug tires off ebay. They are Carlisle farm specialists 6-12 and the lugs are huge(1" tall). And they are quite thick at 6 ply. Also got some tri rib tires for the front. I ended up using rustoleum farm equipment paint in the quart can and bought some majic paint hardener and they work amazing together. The paint gets extremely hard in just 1 night. Here's a few pics!

I pay the same amount as anyone else but it isn't bad each blower came out to 12 bucks I'm just lucky enough to get to see them and grab the stuff in time and all the guys I work with help me out if it's wheel horse it gets put to the side for me and I assure you nothing wheel horse will be shredded as long as I can help it who's knows I get too much and I can help out fellow wheel horse lovers on this awesome forum

some up dates on the db puller

I thought I ought to start a thread to show progress with my rescue horse. It is a 1972 800 3 speed that was destined to go to scrap. It seems that a number of people had had a go at it and given up without ever getting to the bottom of the problem. As the coil appeared to be missing I was guessing a lack of spark might be in there somewhere. Well the coil turned up in amongst the leaves in the gap under the rear mudguards on top of the transaxle. I took it and the battery to the workshop. The battery turned out to be U/S so (new one on order). I tested the coil and it sparked as it should. This afternoon I had a bit of time so I whipped the points off, they were pitted....(new points and condenser on order), for now I have just tickled them up a bit, gapped them and connected all the bits up. I rigged a starter battery and turned it over.... I have a nice fat spark! There is no fuel in the tank so I need to take mrs Rog out shopping later... I will get some fuel and video my first try at a start up, I will be back

Don't ask me why but I love the "Small Tire" 310-8. The 37 inch deck cuts Great too. The 315-8 GT Classic has 109 hours on it.

So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good? I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together? See that attached photos for a bit more clarity. Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well. Thanks for any help!

Here is my wheel horse classic GT 315-8.

For safety sake, you should strap the ramp to the vehicle to prevent them getting dislodged.

Nice job Mike! Looks great! Job well done! You're getting me excited for when I get my engine back.

Sweet . . .fine job

What you are describing sounds normal, in fact if you reach down and hold one or the other axle it will stop and the other will turn - thats just a feature of a differential. About the best test you can do on stands is confirm fwd and rev are working. In a situation like you have with so many unknowns I will get the engine running in any way possible usually using an aux fuel tank and jumper wires, once I confirm the engine if functioning - or not! - I next try to determine that it will move out of its tracks, I'll sit on a milk crate or whatever and steer with a pair of vise grips if necessary, any thing to eliminate, or point out any problems.

Does this help? All the linkage is same as the C-160

Regardless of what type of ramps you use be sure to have some pins from the ramp into the trailer to be sure they don't get dislodged when the mower deck or other items make contact with the end of the ramp. Several years ago while unloading my deck pulled one ramp off the trailer; I was on the ground in a millisecond, fortunately no injuries.

I want to thank every one that donated now who donated what plate?

This thing is hainted! I went out, took it off the charger and it cranked right up and have been riding my grandkids around for a couple of hours. The only thing now is that it has to be choked, even when hot, to crank, but it cranks right up and runs perfectly. The only thing I can think of is that it had a piece of something in the carb and it finally passed. Thanks for the good info and support. Sprocket, the "some modifications", are that the new carb had no threaded port for the fuel pump, so I just installed it in line and it seems to work fine. I guess I did pay too much for the carb, but couldn't find a cheap replacement for that engine...Oh well, can't go back. Thanks all.

Mike would most likely have a transmission half for you and could get you going in no time. If your tractor is a 414-8, it should have the 1 1/8" axles. It helps you're on the right end of PA. I'm glad that you guys are of the right mind to be willing to work on the tranny in some way and not just junk the whole tractor! Too much of that going on anyways.

Steve, I don't see any Illinois plates. I have a couple to contribute, if you want. John

Looks like a great project, very complete and straight. Keep us posted as you go along.

Hi and welcome I only get on computer every few days but think about our southern meet and greet

Wow congratulations. That's one beautiful horse and a great price as well Can't seem to find anything that nice around my parts

Another week end another update. First the wheels, I had them shot blasted and undercoated, gave them a couple of coats of paint....then scratched it all wrestling the new tyres on. Not a job I would like to do on a regular basis. I am just waiting for the new bearings then i can have a proper drive around I also got the seat finished, back on the metal pan, looks pretty good, only time will tell how it will last.

I use it from time to time, it smells good, too.

Very nice, my next refresh will be my 69 GT14. I changed out the engine to an 18hp Kohler a few years ago and did a minor clean up at that time.

I sold the Napa IC64SB for 10 years to farmers, tractor shops ect. Used on just about every gas powered piece of equp there was around here. Including home made power plants ect. Should work fine.

I am saying 1963. '62-'64 had the cool rear fenders. 64 had a different hood and hood stand. 62 had solid rubber front tires. I say 63. ;

Not sure if I'll make it this time but here is the flyer from their Facebook site.

Heck Yeah! MikeRJ. The day I was working on the C100's problem, I couldn't read my own hand writing because the pencil drawn schematic was smudged by me over the years. I'll cut/paste this page to my WH folder for additional visual help. Thanks Bro!

The seat has a split right along the top edge, the first time I sat on it I got a soggy back so I took the seat apart and set the squab out in the sun for a few days until the foam had dried. I treated the rust on the pan then set too on a quick fix of the split, I know up front it will not last forever but it will do for now. Pictures: 1) Wet split seat, yuck 2) In bits 3) Mastic tape for the inside of the split 4) Mastic tape cut to shape Once I had got the tape stuck in place I used a spray glue to reattach the foam to the seat skin. 5) Super glue used to stitch the outside of the split 6) Black gaffer tape over the top this extends right to the edge of the seat skin, under where the trim will hold it in place when I have repainted the pan. 7) A quick rub over with boot polish

It sure does not take a whole lot to get the clown car out and going.

QUOTE: "You may be the most watched UK celebrity after David Tennant So it's Dr. Who, Broadchurch and UKWheelHorseBloke" For me its; 1 UKWheelHorseBloke 2 Benny HIll 3 Dr. Who 4 Fawlty Towers

I decided to throw some paint at the fan shroud, I had read that Ford engine red was a good choice...... I think UK engine red is different to US engine red....It is a bit garish! Better than the rusty flaking grey though . Replaced points, condenser, plug, fuel filter and battery. Then it rained, with all my freshly painted tins and tools outside :(. Which stopped me from removing the front wheels for repainting and tyre replacement, oh well next week maybe. Rain stopped, sun came out, tins went back on!

Today I had time to clean the engine and take the carb off for a check over. I couldn't find anything that stood out other than the float seemed a bit high, reset it lower and reassembled it all. It now runs beautifully, no flooding, knocks or phuts. I ran it backward and forward just fine, gears, clutch and brake all seem to work as they should. I have a couple of questions: The engine is grey and looks as though it has always been grey, is this usual? The seat is a bit too close to the steering wheel, I had a look but there don't seem to be any holes at the correct centers further back, were there adapter feet available in the past?

I bought fuel put some in.....filmed it starting after a couple of turns, or at least I thought I had filmed it...Camera was on pause, I filmed the bit where the carb flooded and it would not restart. I think I need to have a look at the float chamber. The main thing is that my horse lives!