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I have been transferred from recovery to rehab following spinal surgery. One of the side effects of lengthy anesthesia is that my GI tract didn't want to wake up; we think things are going now, two more spontaneous BMs and. I can go home. Wish I could be going to the Big Show but I will watch on the web cam.

Truck all loaded with parts and trailer with the RJ and 704 Wednesday 11:00 A.M. leaving shortly. My next transmission will be from the Dino Stomping grounds in Chambersburg!

Loaded and ready to pull out in the morning

I have these which can be bartered for it squonk doesn't beat you to them.

The 2015 Show picture gallery is open! Safe travels to all, have a good show! Looking forward to the pictures and videos!

This was my Fathers day present to myself. It has unknown hours on it but runs well and all idlers are nice and tight so I think hours may be low. Only thing to make me think otherwise is the steering wheel is polished smooth. I have not mounted the 48" deck yet because I had to order a belt for the bagger. Not shown in the pics is the plastic tube from the bagger blower to the bagger itself. Deck has some weld repair but seems real solid and all moving parts spin properly. Cleat

Fantastic. Perseverance pays off. Garry

Garry I dint have the bolt tight enough on the positive side of the battery so shame on me.Now it fires up good.Thanks for helping me out the whole time.Can please follow me into the engines forum so I can ask questions about the pump I have a how to get the bowl ff the carb in a tight space lol

As promised...a Video of the show https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zn1tjUW7c7A

Last year when I posted the picture of Mrs. M's cookie bars, I went back outside and promptly rolled the Commando 8 over on my leg. Let's hope for a better outcome this time.

I picked up a 312-H with a blower and a 42inch deck for $550. The guy i bought it off of has 2 1997 520's mint, a 418-8 and a brand new 60 inch deck and 2 tall shoot blowers new too! he is not on red square though.

Wouldn't it be scarier if it DID start?

Brian, Do you want me to tell one of my scary Wheel Horse stories ....... like the Tecumseh that wouldn't start ??? Wild Bill

So, here is the proposed lineup of horses to come to the show this year. The 701, 857, 416-H, and the B-100.

All packed, and ready to go. See you all there, safe travels!

Boy, you're gonna be so happy when that thing comes off.

Well, here is the best I can do. For some reason they like to cover their work. The doctor did operate on the correct, RIGHT ankle. I hoped that he could read!

Happy to hear you are mending well. Sorry you can't make the show, but we will post photos and that is the next best thing to being there.

Glad to hear your surgery went well. I just got home a little over an hour from mine for realigning and plating my broken ankle. I agree, those BMs are important!!!

I am redoing a 654 and am looking at tri-ribs for front tires. Which do you folks think would look better. 4.0-8s or 3.5x8s. The bead seat on these rims is about 3.5. Thanks Rick

anybody else have there project tractor for the show in a thousand pieces. I spent about 15 hrs on the boys bronco 14 and it still looks like a yard sale.We are leaving on Thursday for the 10 hr drive and i'm starting freak out.

Turned out real nice Steve. I think the hub caps on this machine really make it pop and add some class to it. I'd leave em on...

You are going to hear the same story from most of us . . . I started a Raider 12 three years ago and thought I'd have it at the first show Many hours and $$ later it's finally done for THIS year Work, home projects, camper projects, family time ..... Just keep at it Best part of any of it is the friends made here that most of us would not have otherwise known

Nice tractor / accessories - - good for you.

that is a very nice machine I have the same one even with the same front tires. id say good price too I paid that for just the tractor and deck in much rougher shape. just so youre aware you can change out the cover plate for the motion control linkage so it will be straight forward and straight back instead of that stupid jog near neutral they implemented right before going to the column control. I couldn't stand that jog when I got mine coming from an older 312-a with the straight forward and back control. I changed out the plate without much trouble and eventually went to foot control on that machine.

Looks real good.I can't decide if I like the hydros or the standard shifts.I have many of each.I guess I like both.I like the straight grooved tires on yours.Have fun with your new toy.

That is the starter solenoid. Garry

I get these 1" push-in rubber bumpers on ebay, they are 5/16" thick so I sand them down on a belt sander to the thickness that is a snug fit when closed, the ones along the side I put in backwards so the smaller rounded end makes contact,

Real nice tractor and a nice deal! Good luck with itl

That's good news and THANK YOU for updating your thread with the final result!

I never had an issue using an impact wrench set at 120 pounds and a very high quality puller with grade 8 bolts. Pops em right off. If using this method, be sure to protect the end of the crank where it is threaded. I just popped another one off of a 14 last week.

Just wanted to show off my new Toy. I think it's my fathers day gift. It was at a auction today. Wasn't going to go because I didn't think I could afford it but my dear sweet wife said you never know & told me to go anyway. It's a 855 with a Freeman Pony Loader.

Sounds like the key between the transmission drive pulley and the engine crankshaft is missing. 1/4" x 1/4" x 1-1/2" long. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/11-tractor-1964-1054-da-om-ipl-wiringpdf/ Garry

You all are a right nice bunch. I went to my local parts supplier and he gave me a Stens that was an exact fit. Wonderful. The lever you push or pull to engage/disengage the hydro for free-wheeling, well it wore an over-size oval. The bolt itself is undamaged, which makes me thin someone replaced it instead of correctly fixing the issue (If this is an issue). Since I replaced the pulley, the belt has skipped once but so far it's perfect. In the midst of moving to a 1920s farm house, and trying to keep up with the 3 acres of horribly overgrown lawn and trees growing in the gutter, your help here at this forum has been invaluable. By the way, do any of you know how difficult it is to get the tractor to the roof to mow the gutters? I'm thinking of removing the gutters...

It is pretty much done. Need to do some more touch up and cleaning and paint the rims. Going to get footboard pads from Eldon at the show and a shifter cover. Overall nice clean worker.

Looks great! Good job!!

Absolutely love it. great job!

I like it! It's sized better for the tractor than most I see.

I have a 854 for sale and a kohler magnum 12hp off a 312-8 both run good asking $550.00 for the 854 and $350.00 for the engine Brian

I'll bring along a few oldies Steve...

Thanks for the plates guys, here's a pic of where they will go on the wall. This was when we were remodeling it amd doing some much needed maintenance

Steve: You can have these for Koen's friend! Not that old but Hoosierland and Florida might look good too !

Steve, here is the plate. Black and yellow one on the left

I am looking for some old car license plates. Koen (C-101plowerpower), in the Netherlands, has a friend that has a drinking establishment and is looking to decorate it with that kind of stuff...no money here...just donations...but appreciate the help. I would take them at the show and mail them to Koen. Thanks

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would relate an interesting story. Back in 2009/2010, when I was restoring/building my B-100. I was a true novice with painting, so I experimented with a lot of combinations. I had several test panels that I sprayed with different colors and types of paint. One test panel in particular was painted with a modified alkyd (oil) paint, Valspar Restoration Series to be specific. It had dried in the sun for about a week. Then I put it away when the decision was made to scrap alkyds and go with acrylic urethane. Later, probably within a month, I pulled it out, scuffed the paint and shot a couple coats of epoxy primer on it. That panel was put up on a shelf and left until this past weekend. I happened to pull it down to see if I had marked it with what brand of epoxy I had used. I also wanted to see how well the epoxy would sand after 5 years. When I went to sand it, I found to my surprise that the Valspar paint under the primer was still not cured, and after cutting through the epoxy, I could scrape the sticky red paint off with a putty knife. Background: Panel was originally sand blasted. Primed with Valspar Restoration Series gray primer. Painted with two coats of Valspar Restoration Series IH Red (aerosol spray). Allowed to dry for about 30 days. Scuffed and sprayed with Custom Shop DTM epoxy primer (gray). Interestingly, the epoxy cured in less than 5 hours and sanded well at that time, and after 5 years it still sanded without effort. However, the result here is that the epoxy dried so fast, and is so solvent-proof, that the Valspar which wasn't fully cured to start with, remained uncured until this day. CONCLUSION -- Don't spray epoxy primer over any oil based paint that is not FULLY cured.

You can get 2000 ~ 2500 hrs if you run a diesel oil, changed often. No longer does SM or SN oils have proper additives for flat tappet cams. Diesel oils do. So Shell Rotella T1 SAE 30, Mobil Delvac SAE 30, and Valvoline & chevron makes some. During the winter Shell has a 10w-30 diesel oil. -Warm up engine at 50 - 60% throttle, NEVER EVER at idle. The dipper will never sling the oil to the cylinder, and you will create an oil burner in very short order. -Operate at 100% full throttle during hot days so you get proper airflow. Regardless of internet rumors you can operate a little slower when you are not loading it down much & overheating it. But if you are mowing, run it wide open. -Regardless of oil type, never ever extend the oil change beyond 25hrs. These engines shred metal, and there is no way to filter it. -Fix & repair the throttle shaft busings in the carburetor. These will loosen up around 700-800 hrs on a Walbro carb. This is an instant source of dirt entering the cylinder. -Inspect every year the rubber hose going from the carb to the crankcase breather, these dry rot, or fall apart and also let lots of dirt in. -Make sure to decarbon the cylinder ridge, this will eat the piston alive. Attached is one that was never done. It is now in need of a rebuild. This needs done every 250-500 hrs. I prefer to do it at 250 as you never know how bad it is until you look. If done at 250 you can reuse the headgasket. At 500 you should replace.

​Can't wait...bringin' Ellie Mae?

The new goose neck will have 10ft of living space and 28ft garage so we can do both. Already have orders from the boss there will be NO stove

Oh I bet HF sells a few of those engines now. That is a great job and excellent post. Thanks for sharing this. 22 horses at a third of the cost. Lets hope it runs for a long time to come!

That is not me