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Had a great time at Evensville In. Lots of great people & tractors.

Well, I really wasn't planning on another boat project! The boat is a 1955 Dunphy mahogany ply with its original 1955 Johnson and original trailer. It is almost 13 ft. long. Being a wood boat I really doubt there are many of these left out there and most buyers opted for the 14 ft. model. The boat was a barn find by my brother and he just HAD to tell me about it. I purchased the boat from the original owners son. (His father is still living at 87 but now lives in New Hampshire) The boat was last used in 1977. I got it home safely this past Saturday and immediately started working on it. I'm up in the air about what color to paint the bottom. The bottom color on it is the original factory color, Dunphy painted all the bottoms of their boats this color. I really don't mind the bottom color, Mr. original himself Stevebo says, red bottom and red interior cushions. I was thinking factory color on bottom and maybe hunter green cushions or a medium blue? maybe even red cushions? I promised the previous owners pictures when done and they can even go out for a boat ride with it. They were pretty excited too hear that. Since it is rainy today, when I got home from work I pulled the carb to clean it and pulled the flywheel to have a look at the ignition. Carb was spotless clean and after cleaning and checking the gap on the points I had good spark. I put it all back together and decided to try starting it. Within a few pulls she was off and running. Nice to see that after 38 yrs. being idle this is still a great motor. I will now order new maintenance parts for it.. You can tell the old timer really took care of his stuff, the paint and decals on the motor are near perfect, I won't do doing anything in that area other than keeping it clean and waxed.

Good thing my wife loves me. In a month or so, I've bought 3 WH tractors. I just picked this Commando 8 up today specifically to move some dirt and mulch. Unfortunately, we have had so much rain, it's too wet to move it. You can see the mud on the 520's tires

Got a spare battery with a fair bit of charge in it and a set of booster cables? Clean that cast boss up that the set screw is in so a booster cable clamped to it will make a good electrical connection and the other end to one battery post. Shine up the end of the broken set screw. Place a spare piece of steel rod or flat stock you don't care about in the other booster cable and the other end of the cable to the other battery post. It is going to arc and spark when you hold the steel rod to the set screw for a count of about two. Battery current will try to flow through the set screw, through the rust to the cast iron. The rust is resistance to current flow and will create heat right where you want it. Let it cool because it will be hot. You might be able to thread the set screw out with your fingers because it was loose in the threads when it was installed. You may need to try a second time. Often the rust will blow out as soon as the current hits it. Garry

I got a chance to do some cleaning. Turns out that the tractor is in very good shape and was just caked with dirt. The onan doesn't smoke and the tranny is strong. Some elbow grease, citrus cleaner, murphys oil soap, wax and a tooth brush equals a clean worker tractor. I am super happy buying this tractor. I didn't pay a whole lot and got a nice looking worker with a good 48" deck. I guess that I lucked out with this one! To be honest, I wasn't planning on this tractor being a keeper. I was planning on cleaning and selling but after cleaning her up and cutting some grass and a few odd jobs, she is a keeper for sure. I am really getting to like the hydro on the column and the reduction steering makes a big difference. Maybe one of Matt's foot pedals may be in order in the future.

​I'm thinking late night interview with Craig (Candid Camera RedSquare style)

Well my local dealer came thru again! Great guys. They showed this tractor to me 2 weeks ago and asked if I was interested. It was really hard to start and pretty dirty but there wasn't any rust on it. I said "sure am interested" but I have no way to get it to my house. They said see what you can do. Two weeks go by and I stopped by early this morning to pick up some other parts. I mentioned that I had no luck in getting a trailer. They said we will just have one of the guys throw it on a trailer and he can follow you home. Pay us when you get the cash. We shot some starter fluid in the carb and by some miracle she fired right up! A 1993 520-H with a 48" deck followed me home today. Some faded paint, lots of crud and dried dirt BUT underneath is a rust free awesome hunk of tractor! Hour meter stopped at 658 hrs so I am not really sure what the hours are. New oil filter, tranny filter, fuel filter, air filter are all in store for tomorrow as is a wash. The Onan sounds awesome and doesn't burn oil. I put fresh gas in her and cut a third of my yard with her this evening and the hydro is strong, the motion control lever doesn't need any adjusting and the cut was great. Support your local dealer!

I just bought this wheel horse today for $100. It looks to be in decent shape(not rusted through anywhere). I am not sure what model it is. The model tag has the numbers ripped off so I could not read it. It would be very helpful to know the model before the restoration. If you have any clues that would be great.

The property next door to me has been abandon for over two years. I offered to keep it mowed but the mortgage company declined my offer so it sat empty and unmowed for two years. Last night when I got home a young lady was attempting to mow with a push mower. I introduced myself and discovered she was the new owner. After thinking about this last evening, I decided the Raider should make a contribution to this young lady's project. Four gallons of gas and four hours later, we had the place mowed. We ran with the deck @‌ max height @‌ WOT in low 1st and 2nd. Seat time !!! I hope She is surprised and pleased when she returns.

Yep, the answer is in your title.

This afternoon I changed the engine wiring harness and also a few other electrical upgrades... Thanks to Jeff for helping make sense of the wiring diagram. She is a runner and a strong runner. I had to swap over the drive pulley on the engine with the smaller 8 speed pulley. It has the typical Onan surge. Pulled carb top off and it was a little dirty. Need to fix that but she runs and drives and the motor seems very strong.

If you go with the double seals remove the grease fitting and Loctite a short Allen set screw with the same thread in it's place. If the double sealed bearings happen to meet up with a grease gun in the future it will push the bearing back out of the hub and off the axle. I have some of both and no question now where they are. The grease will not enter the inner seal. Garry

I have a K 181 with chrome air cleaner and points cover and all the gen brackets for sale. Excuse the Robert Yates Racing decals, He didn't build it!

Same with me.

I'd bet that its gonna be a bad needle & seat thats sticking, I'm running 5 of that type pump and granted they wont stand for a marginal needle/seat, it has to be a good seal. I had a carb that was doing OK til I added the lectric and then it would stick on occasion, I finally put a new needle/seat in it and that fixed it.

IMO Stihl is overrated. Had weed eaters and saws...hated them. Went the Husqvarna route and never looked back.

You can get 2000 ~ 2500 hrs if you run a diesel oil, changed often. No longer does SM or SN oils have proper additives for flat tappet cams. Diesel oils do. So Shell Rotella T1 SAE 30, Mobil Delvac SAE 30, and Valvoline & chevron makes some. During the winter Shell has a 10w-30 diesel oil. -Warm up engine at 50 - 60% throttle, NEVER EVER at idle. The dipper will never sling the oil to the cylinder, and you will create an oil burner in very short order. -Operate at 100% full throttle during hot days so you get proper airflow. Regardless of internet rumors you can operate a little slower when you are not loading it down much & overheating it. But if you are mowing, run it wide open. -Regardless of oil type, never ever extend the oil change beyond 25hrs. These engines shred metal, and there is no way to filter it. -Fix & repair the throttle shaft busings in the carburetor. These will loosen up around 700-800 hrs on a Walbro carb. This is an instant source of dirt entering the cylinder. -Inspect every year the rubber hose going from the carb to the crankcase breather, these dry rot, or fall apart and also let lots of dirt in. -Make sure to decarbon the cylinder ridge, this will eat the piston alive. Attached is one that was never done. It is now in need of a rebuild. This needs done every 250-500 hrs. I prefer to do it at 250 as you never know how bad it is until you look. If done at 250 you can reuse the headgasket. At 500 you should replace.

Thanks for the photos! My wife took video of all the garden tractors, but she is having difficulty getting them to up-load. Hopefully she gets it working and I can post the vids!

Ya know... just thinking... maybe the Friday bon-fire would be a good broadcast.... or maybe not? @Big Show or Bust. @rmaynard

​Bob, any idea the width of the wheel on the D? ​pretty sure mine are 7 inches wide.....

Adding a bit to what Bob said about taking the pressure up to get the tire to 'seat' in the rim -- I have had an occasional tire be stubborn about seating and would take as much as 50+ psi (and yes I get nervous about this time!!) What I wanted to alert you to is when it finally does seat it can make a rather startling "POP!!" so be expecting it -- honestly most often 20-30psi will do it and the pop isnt much. By the way, get some of the wifes dish detergent (Dawn is the goodest!) and smear it around the tire bead, it'll act as a lubricant...

Big show, sham on you! Every one was being soooooo good and then you went and used the "H" word.

It looks like a 1988 520-H. The ignition key location was changed for 1989 to left of the steering column. You will notice that the motion control lever slightly interferes with the ignition key.

Mike, you have given me an idea. I am not going to swap out the seat but I am going to figure a way to attach a headrest on that sucker. I am thinking something like this.

If you can lean back far enough, the drool when you fall asleep mowing will get on your shirt instead of your nice dashboard. At least that works for me!

When going thru my front end I decided to replace the front wheel bearings, the real common 1 3/8" x 3/4". After getting a set of four off ebay they came with the grease seals on both the outside and inside. Question is should I remove the seals on the backside and continue to grease thru the zerk or let them ride as sealed bearings? My inclination is to let them ride as sealed bearings.

I know this topic was covered several times before, but I searched the forum for about an hour and cannot find any of the old posts. Here's my dilemma. Since the local mice really liked the taste of my '73 10-8 wiring harness, and I pretty much have to fabricate an entirely new one, I'd like to add a connector for a trickle charge connection. I seem to remember hearing there was an issue as to where to actually make the charging connection, as doing so incorrectly caused a feedback loop to the regulator, which could damage the $50-$75 regulator. I suspect there was an addition of a diode somewhere to prevent this loop, but like I said, I cannot find any of the old posts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

We were Marines. We walked and picked it all up by hand, LOL No money in the budget for machines

No pics...yet...but wait till my hauler shows up... 1999 Toyota Sienna minivan with 286,000 miles on it...but hey it's still pulling a horse and considering it only cost me $1500 maybe it's finally time to get another wheel horse...but then I'll probably need to buy a truck...

The shed only ADDS value to your property! Always build it bigger than you think you'll ever need. She'll think you are insightful and intelligent.

You're doomed and there is no cure. Might as well enjoy it. You sure have a nice start.

eric the bolt from the exhaust is to large to pass through the intake valve. NOW. an air cleaner bolt is large enough to hold the valve open. the choke and throttle shaft screws are the ones that will do the damage to the piston and cylinder head. thank you. boomer ( the used onan engine parts guy,also NOS and new )

Bring everything! You and the kids will love it! Make a memory....

Hosers?

I do believe I'm seeing an issue with your case James. On the bottom left side the rear 'ear' where the sideplate bolt goes is snapped off.

Garry, that is the most incredible piece of information I have ever heard. I need to find a rusted tranny now so I can try that. Absolutely unreal...thanks .

this is the pump I used, works very well for cheep beans... http://www.ebay.com/itm/321596330401?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

to the roadapples, You must be going to the BIG SHOW. You could ride a tractor from your place. I hope she does come back.....cookies in hand would work. No sign of her to date though.

I'm glad to see that this is going to happen. I gave up hope when there was so little help offered and the attitude became a "what happens at the show stays at the show" thing. If there's anything I can do to assist let me know.

Thanks for all the great help and I am very happy it is a RJ-58 because I thought it was a suburban 400. I like Rj's a lot more. It turns out I will need 1 of the main shaft gears that is in side the differential. I hope racinfool40 will have some for me. I am planning on restoring this thing over the summer. I will definitely post some pics when it is done. Thanks

Ed, maybe she`s been busy bakin` up a big batch of cookies. Anyway, mighty neighborly of you.

You don't want to get too much pressure in it without being in a tire. Just go ahead and install it. Make sure there's nothing inside the tire that could puncture it and that it won't get pinched in the bead. Pump her up until the bead seats and then adjust the pressure. It may take 30-40 psi to seat it. It's just the way it's done and it won't blow.

You're just getting it broke in Magneto on that one.

​I don't have the original owners manual sadly, the previous, previous owner had ordered the 100 page parts catalog though, and the only markings it has on it is this. Not really sure what those parts are, and I don't think I have a 520 HC. ​79350 is a dozer blade sold 1993-2001 #1 model 73501 Serial 5900350 is a 1995 520-H #2 model 73501 Serial 3903246 is a 1993 520-H Model C1-20OE01 is a 1988 520-HC Garry

​ Steve you forgot; turn off the engine first! In all seriousness you don't know how many times I've been in a hurry and left the belt on. Only to release the front hitch and now I have a mower deck just dangling by the belt!

Well, they must have been, because that is exactly where we ended up. He was asking $2000, I offered $1500, we settled at $1650. Picking it up tomorrow.

Well, I could always try and borrow this one from a friend our ours Here's a picture from a couple years ago when I was just finishing up the 401 and a friend was working on building the stack for me. Sure looks different with single wheels on the rear. Sure could fit some horses in this rig though! Anyways as for what we'll bring, probalby going to take our flatbed from the farm this year, has a 12ft long bed on it so should be able to bring a couple horses and still have room just in case we find anything we can't live without. Don't have any pictures of it.

Great thread Duane! Now Ya'll don't laugh! 06 Tundra 168.000 mi. Just spent a grand on new sneakers and some super whoopy Bilsteins. Trailer is a Lowes Special Sno Bear Strong Box trailer that has been modded to fit 2 Horses Nice and light. I'll be cruisin to XM Deep Tracks and Outlaw Country!

This thing came apart using air tools in all of 30 mins.

Lane, mine measures: 26" end of spiral to end of spiral, 31" end of cable to end of cable and 33" end of yoke to end of yoke, Mark.