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In a previous post of my Commando 8 redo, I discussed repairing the wallowed out key way in the axle. Instead I replaced the 3 speed with one I had on the shelf. Today while rooting out some potential items for the SHOW, there was that 3 speed. So today I made a stab at the repair. I made a dummy key from a piece of 3/16 brass , welded around it, and ground/filed it down. Only time will tell if the weld will hold up to the torque.

I did this 26 years ago. Still works great.

I did a little horse tradin with my brother for this 165. It cost me an outboard. She's in real nice mostly original shape. Runs real strong full throttle but runs kinda poopy at lower speeds. Here is what previous owners have done to it trying to get it to run right. Flush tank, new fuel lines, brand new carb, new points, coil and condenser. Compression test is good, check valve clearance good. .Its not carb or points settings, they are spot on. All grounds and connections are good. I know this tractor has left more than a few guys scratchin their heads... I haven't had much time to look into it myself...

Won't ever be this big! This was my Grandfather's place, and the garden that he kept for about 45 years! My 416-H was his, and it tilled this every year from '94 through the '04 season. Thought some of you might like to see this! Pic 1 is the whole property, in pic 2, my Grandparents are standing next to the garden. That area in the middle was the strawberry patch!

The 704 I bought last year is coming along nice Bob ! I am posting some pics of it. I put my early wheel horse mid-grader blade on it. Craig: Both the tiller pieces are wheel horse original tiller pieces. They must have been used a lot as the center one does have a slight curve to it from use! The back bar is suppose to be straight but I did not correct it. I am posting a pic from June 4, 2015 after cultivating was done.

I think I see a couple of scratches up in the top corner of that 310's hood...

I picked up a Bronco 14 for my son to drive at the show. After he drove it around awhile, it developed a hydraulic leak. I found the pump drive pulley had loosened up and smashed the pump seal. My question is does anyone know the seal number? Can it be changed without taking the pump apart? And does anyone have a drive pulley for sale?...the keyway slot is destroyed on mine. I have been reading up on the forums for sometime now. Just registered as a user so this is my first post. I look forward to being part of the group. Kevin and I are certified Wheelhorse-aholics.

commando 8 and i also have a 310-8

Is it just me or has every Wheel Horse collector owned or still owns a 310-8? Just curious, I have my $250 310-8 although it wasn't my first horse.

I did. I got a call from my good friend Fireman this afternoon and he told me about the two. I was on the road so I had him contact seller and set up the pick up. Fireman was at work until tomorrow so he could not make the trip. The owner was nice but man he was out there in the sticks... Anyhow here are the before and after cleaning pics. This guy literally made his own tire chains. Check this out...

Well after finally meeting up with Duane (Baerpath), I got the 3 point hitch for the GT14. After a lot of sanding, sandblasting and painting, I got the majority of it done and mounted. Now I just need to get a few new hydraulic lines and mount the piston and valve. Thanks Again Duane

Someone gave me a 308-8 today. All original. I immediately brought it home and took the seat and belt guard off after draining oil and gas. The engine almost has a grinding sound but good compression. Smelled like gas was in the oil. Also, engine was slow to trim over, but found the belt to be EXTREMELY tight and I believe it's the wrong one. Took off the air filter and saw oil spot. Original Carlisle tires. Paint is excellent. It's in excellent condition, stickers and all. I really want to restore this. Any help or info? Greencastle, Indiana here.

I really like the way the two piece cultivator works on the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 with the Hein-Werner hydraulic pump. It tool a fraction of the time to cultivator the vegetable garden from what a small tiller would do !

Came across a tiller on eBay last week about 2 hours from me. Went and got it last Sunday, it looks like a new one, could only have been used 2 or 3 times, included everything to attach. Here it is on my Dads 312-8, works great!

Welcome to the forum. That 8 on the end is a date code they used for a few years. Subtract 5 from that 6th digit and you get the model year. 8-5=3=1973. The left over 1972 GT-14's got that model number. You will see 6, 7, 8 and 9 used on the attachments at the time also representing 1971, 1972, 1973 and 1974. Garry

Spent a little time this afternoon pulling it apart and cleaning it up. Will do a refurbish on this one. I have one for show so this will be clean with new paint, decals etc. It should come out pretty nice and be very presentable. Here is how it sits now. Tins will be sandblasted the rest will get sanded and primed.

​I wouldn't run it. The only saving grace to that machine is the n.o.s. factor. Its otherwise just a very low use Raider - big deal - not crazy collectible, not crazy rare - just a Raider. Any significant $$ value is then lost in my opinion because it's lost the only "rare" factor it once had. Just my $0.02.

Nice Horse! Hard to say how many alterations have been made to various tractors over the years, the important thing is that it has found a good home with some one who will show it some love.

So let's see what every 1 is bringing to the show this year!.as I am doing some last minute cleaning and body work to my 310.

Looks good Ed. Should hold up. I had a bad one on my 416 tranny I put in the 310. I had a Machinist friend weld up the bad one and then cut a new one 90 degrees from the damaged one. Pro Bono of course. We do each other favors. See you at the show. Will talk to you about a Briggs part.

My wife would love that garden!!! BTW...me too.

I've used these quite a few times. Less than $10 a pair.

I'd like to see what somebody that really knows engines has to say. I think the machine or small engine shop is the way to go at this point. I'm thinking there is gas mixed with that oil under the head. No way that engine was going to start with all that laying there. I'm just wondering how expensive it is going to be because it is a Tecky. We have a few threads that tell how to clean all that up without getting stuff in the rings or under the valves...I find them if you don't know where they are. Point gap... 0.020 spark plug gap... 0.030

looks good

Wonder if these 2 pages are involved http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1668-wh61-90-147-model-1-0610-18hp-front-wheel-failurepdf/ Front axle http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/954-wh61-90-162-18hp-auto-d-series-axle-spindle-modspdf/ and http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1651-wh61-90-232-18hp-auto-d-series-hd-front-axlepdf/ Garry

Well mine is not getting fire at all lol, coils gotta be dead

Hello, so today i wasted no time taking the engine apart, so got the cooling shroud etc off, but i removed the flywheel nut and then reattached it as i know thats recommended and cant seem to get it off, any help/advice? but on another note i got the head off an this is what i found. james

Tow valve is on left side, here is a bad pic of it...but you can see the location, at least. It is difficult to get to and probably stuck.

​My first was a 211-5, I got it when I was much younger. But my first garden tractor that I got about 2-3 years ago was a 310-8, I think a bunch of us have had a 310, it seems to be a pretty common tractor.

If anyone can figure out the running problem, its you. Will be curious to see what you deduce Sherlock. Looks real nice like all your stuff. Glenn

I recently bought one that had been sitting for a while. It rolled easily without turning the tow valve. I thought I was screwed but when I got it home and got it started it functioned fine. Someone on the forum said that after they sit for a while the hydro loses pressure and that is why it rolled. The tow valve is o the drivers left inside the fender and maybe three inches higher than the fender lip. It is about the diameter of a pencil and protrudes about an inch

The 16's really do have some nut. Being this one runs rough at idle and slower speeds it will shake your fillings out. Never was a big fan of rubber mounted engines..i think I'm gonna nic name it shake rattle and roll.. But, I do like it!

I don't have a picture, but the tow valve is on the left side of the transmission behind the fender pan facing forward. Should be a slotted bolt for a screwdriver.

My High School Buddy & I drove his 1963 Corvair to New Orleans & back before we were to go off to College in summer of 63. He was going to Indiana & I was reporting to Champaign Ill. and the Fighting Illini. We didn't, have any trouble with the car the whole way. Saw Al Hirt on Bourbon Street- drank a HURRICANE, and picked up another Mishawaka Grad ( that we didn't even know was going to Orleans too)-up off the street, by a bar, he had been thrown out by the bouncer! We were not rowdy guys- Honest!-----Thanks- Good Luck--Nice Car!- Al

Did you check the float adjustment...both up and down?? Are you getting good gas flow through the fuel pump?? Great pictures James. If it was me, I would get the $20 E-Bay carb and give the carb you have to Richard to rebuild. I don't think you want to throw out that original carb. Besides, you can't have too many Tecumseh carburetors on the shelf.

Wouldn't electrical tape work as well? Especially since the nut should hold the blade in place. Good idea, by the way! I have slop in all my blade spindle interfaces. i will try this next time

I'll have a Heavy Duty Custom suitcase weight bracket that fits the front engine round hoods. Holds 3 weights. WEIGHTS NOT INCLUDED! I'm selling it for what it cost me to have it made $75.00

​ Pretty darn sure a minivan would do the job... Lol

Southern Indiana Antique and Machinery Club 36th Classic Iron Show & Garden Tractor Extranvaganza June 12-14, 2015 Evansville IN Feature: Waterloo; Ford; Fordson; Ferguson Venue: Vanderburgh 4-H Center, 6 miles north on Hwy. 41. Contact: Brad Fromm, 812-983-3300

Been using Huskee Kevlar belts on Horses for years. Local TSC store, available all day, inexpensive. Never had a problem. Pulley alignment or spindle shaft problem(s). Most likely your pain in the you-know-what.

Well I pressure washed it and this is all that was left. Trust me it was a lot worse than the pictures led on. It would take too much elbow grease and a lot of sheet metal to get this one back to life. However, there are mechanical parts on this one that I was missing on some of my others. Now I have a spare tranny to rebuild,two good back tires and a decent hood should I need one.

Genn, I hope you can hang to as many as you can,not easy to replace them I bet. Just got to do what feels right. Good luck, Idaho Jim

I'll be looking for a few 1276 parts like a stock seat (or close to it), the clutch assembly for the end of the crankshaft and a stock muffler. I will have several sets of these floor mats for sale - $20 set. The attached pictures show them on a Radier 12. Can't wait, I'm starting to get giddy . . .

Welcome to the forum. The original seal in the 1972 Bronco 14 is number 7877. SKF or Chicago Rawhide CR 7475 Some have used this seal Federal Mogul 480821 = CR 7474 Original seal 9008000-7501 = CR 7443 For a used pulley make a post in the Wanted section. Garry

Yes both Wheel Horse pieces !

More pics of the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 with the two piece cultivator set before she went to work!

I paid $2000 for a 1997 520h with just the deck but the machine was mint and had under 200 hours. The nice thing 520xi comes with all the attachments so I would toss 3000 cash on the table and see what he says. Or 2500 cash and your old wheel horse trade for the 520xi. I think the price is fair since there hard to come by. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

i use rocker gaurd spray,just add some grit when spraying

The 3 Point on the GT-14 could be had 2 ways. One using the mid lift cylinder with the long bar that connected it to the 3-point. The down side of this is whatever is attached to the mid mount would move when you wanted to move the 3-point up or down. The extra cylinder has it's own valve and allowed the two lifts to operate independently. I have the manuals for the hydraulic setup. If you want a copy send me a PM with your email. The lift blocks my friend made for me were a favor. They are not that hard to make. A machine shop probably wouldn't charge a lot to make you a set. I think I have a drawing with the dimension somewhere.

Well I got all the hydraulics finished and the finally found the 3/4-16 threaded rod. All that's left to do is drill the holes in the threaded rod for the roll pins and cotter pins. Took it out today and tested it to make sure the hydraulics are correct and working. Then she got a nice de-greasing and power wash. I will have it at the meet and greet on Saturday.