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Update almost done with the semi restore 420lse tractor. I keeped the pan seat and hood orginal with its patina look

my original 1956 Brian

Just purchased this 401 from a fellow RS member. It's a nice, complete tractor with a previous rattle can paint job. Very solid straight tractor and runs good too. My plan is to disassemble and do a quality paint job on this one. I have a few questions though. Can you pick out what doesn't match the rest? I believe there are at least two things. The trans is dated as a 1961, the engine serial numbers match up with approximately a 1961, and the hood is definitely a 1961, but a few other things just aren't right. I also noticed the front rims don't match each other. The offsets are reversed. Were there different offsets on these earlier models and maybe mine are mix-matched or did one of them just get drilled for the stem on the wrong side? I also need the outer drive pulley to run the deck as well as the pivot pin for the hitch if anyone has these.

As long as you think it is a fixed up parts Horse, you might not mind making your own hitch pin. It is just bar stock with a groove on each end for a "C" clip. BTW, I think you have a very nice looking horse there.

The center hood stand is from a 551. The 551 should not have the three piece transmission. It should be the two piece. The 401 had a solid sheet metal type center hood stand. The 551 had a electric start 5.5 horse Tecumseh engine. The 401 had a K91 Kohler. The clutch/brake pedal is a 401 style. Looks like it's pretty much a 401 with the wrong center hood stand as far as I can tell.

That patina is beautiful. Don't paint it. Perfect as it is. I'd only paint a tractor that has either already been repainted in its past or one that is severely rusty. Color that shows its age and history is wonderful I've got it's twin. She also works.

No. I just put it in there for fit. I still have to weld in the second strap. Even then I only put about an inch or two of gas in it to keep the weight down.

Glad you found us, enjoy your horse and remember,

I wouldn't repaint it, I'd use it but lightly. I think the real rarity is the condition it is in..

for vince heres a couple I have

Here is an attached pic of my tractor for reference.

I'll take the liberty to post my brothers (VinsRJ) '54 prototype with hand built fiberglass hood. No picture I've seen yet does this thing justice.

T 1067 - 1967 Wheel Horse Lawn & Garden Tractor 8-Speed Kohler K241S-46333D 10hp Model 5060. Original owner - purchased by my Dad in 1967. RL42 Mower Deck. 40" Brinley De-thatcher. 40" Brinley Plug Aerator.

Welcome to red square! enjoy your tractor.

Sounds interesting 857. You're right. It's a horse and the show will be fun.

Done! Good Luck!

26th and 27th look right to me. The 2014 show flyer looks odd though!

I have been visiting my cousin frequently since the early 70's when they moved to Brighton from Bethalto. Spent my summers down there as a kid.

Then the issue is before the ammeter. I would not overlook the fuse holder.

got a uni-drive! not an 8 speed but 4 speed the type that has the same casing as 8 speed not the 3 piece ones. got everything i need except for the 5 lug 1" hubs. since I will be doing this mod for sure all my posts to do with the transmission will be on the "project Agri-800" post under 'modifications and customisations'. thank you all for your help, callum

From what I can see...Jeff hit the nail on the head. Nice tractor either way.

Good luck with your new 310. Good Horse! Yeah, just pop rivet a stop on. That'll work, won't bother you after a few mo's.

They're out there in singles. Just like finding a women, you have to keep searching for the right one. That does suck though.

I happen to be sitting next to where I store my tractor manuals. I have previously done the resistance checks mentioned by Rick and saved the results. Using a multi meter in the forward bias direction (black probe on the striped end of the diode), diode resistance measured 120 ohms on both diodes. Reverse bias (red probe on the striped end) was infinite resistance (total blocking of current) as it should be. Also, as a point of reference, the solenoid coil resistance is 40 ohms.

So that was one of Rick's tractors? That would explain how such a low hour tractor set around for that long.

That makes me feel better. I will keep the factory paint on it. I took a little bit but I got it back to a fully functioning tractor. I've really grown to love these tractors.

Welcome to the forum. You don't necessarily have this model of deck but the belts should be the same Garry

I just bought a 1969 Wheelhorse Model 7245 Electro 12 about two weeks ago. It has a rototiller,runs good but needs lot's of repair and paint. I just bought it to rototill our home garden garden. Then I stumbled on to this website and after reading many of the articles on this site I am hooked on the wheel horse and very interested and hope to restore my tractor. It's my first one. I'm 68 years old. I'm excited about starting this project.

I think it's a fair price also. Big box new tractors are $1500.00-$2300.00. That is a deal. Tractor will last you 30 years!!

I've got one question for you is it a Kohler coil or is it like an Napa or a coil from an automotive store. Many years ago I bought a c120 that had the electronic ignition on it it had burnt and instead of buying the electronic ignition I converted it to points and coil like the older kohlers got the coil from Napa echlin internal resistor. engine ran like crap missed no power so I took the engine apart thinking it got hot and the Rings had lost their tension rebuilt engine repainted it got it all back together proud of my work ran the same way. the old boy that was a Kohler rep that called on my father's wheelhorse shop came in and I told him about it he went out to his car got a coil that was a kohler part we put it on and ran like a sewing machine. He told me he had run into that before something about the resistors in the aftermarket coils sometimes where not comparable. I did a lot of work for nothing because of a coil the did not meet specification you might want to check it . if it is not a Kohler coil try to find one used or whatever tomorrow and try that just my 2 cents. [emoji6]

Duke- Any update on this project? I just purchased the same set of front tires you bought. I just really like the style.

I bet you can sell it this year. Glenn

867's are not rare at all. 867's that look like the one pictured above is!

Just a few pics of the rear tires sand blasted, primed and painted.

Been pecking away at the new one. Got the firewall, most of the steering and 90% of the frame is done. Still waiting for some sprockets and a new carb for the M8 to show up.

The diodes can be tested using an ohm meter. Diodes only permit current to flow in one direction. Some multi-meters have a diode test function, while most all have the ohm reading function. With the ignition off (you don't want power in the circuit when testing the diode), set the meter to diode test or ohms, and put one probe on each side of the diode. With the meter across the diode, you will either get a reading of full continuity (just like touching the two meter probes together), or you will have no continuity. Which ever reading you get, continuity or no continuity, make a note of it. Now reverse the meter leads, if the red probe was on the right side of the diode for the first test, now move it to the left side of the diode with the black probe on the right. If the diode is good, you should not get a reading that is totally opposite of what you got in the first test. If you previously had no continuity, now you should have full continuity, or vise versa. The meter is attempting to put a small current through the diode, but if the diode is working as it should, it will block the flow in one direction. Repeat the same test on the second diode. Any results that are different than described would indicate a failed diode, such as no continuity indicated with the probes in either of the two possible configurations. A failed diode will stop the Kohler in its tracks. If you find a bad diode or two, they will need to be replaced. Before removing them, you need to look very closely at them, looking for a stripe on the body of the diode. The stripe indicates the orientation of the diode, and the new diode MUST be installed with the stripe positioned just as the original, either going towards the solenoid or away. Make a note of the stripe position, or take pictures. The diodes can be soldered into the harness. It is best to cover them with heat shrink tubing if you have access to it. Many auto parts stores have heat shrink tubing, as well as home depot in the electrical department. A local Kohler dealer may have the diodes, not too uncommon that they fail. I have read that they fail due to a high voltage spike getting onto the system from the PTO clutch. Kohler actually makes a kit using more diodes to block the PTO from doing this. Let me know if you need more support. Rick

X2 on the patina. Very nice original tractor.

I'd use it there are no rare or hard to come by parts for them and the 8hp is a work horse. As for the patina or restore it's all about what you want to do with it. But of your looking for votes I'd vote for patina. It took almost 50 years to look that good and you'll never duplicate it. :)

It's a good looking machine, but I doubt he will get $2600.00 for it.

I was just in Brighton last weekend, count me in..

Well I thought I had a gas tank. Turns out it's the smaller version that used to come mounted on the Kohler engines. I remembered I had been watching a guy on Ebay that had NOS tanks that were the correct size but the outlet is at the wrong end and the fill opening is about 2" off. I figured it was my best option so I bought one. It fits in there under the hood just fine. Just have to have a little longer fuel line. It's perfect inside and out. No corrosion whatsoever.

My tire changing tools are the guys down the street!

Everyone has an opinion, and that is what the above comments are, one person's opinion. However, since using ONLY ethanol-free gas in my horses and other small engines, I have eliminated the need for all additives, and I have ZERO problems with gumming or moisture issues. And in my OPINION, fuel stabilzers and additives were created and designed to put money in the pockets of those manufacturing and selling it. Again just my opinion.

This is a 1957 RJ-35 project which is patiently waiting in the haymow, lots of rust, but lots of potential too.

I got fed up with fighting them and got one of the Harbor Freight changers. Low cost and it works great.

Here is my first car, still have it. Owned it for 28 years. My Dad owned it for a few years before I bought it off of him. Although he used to tell me I ruined the car when I started modifying it. Until he drove it one time, I thank that changed his mind lol

Imagine being on Skype and have this red truck come roaring in behind you! Of course you'd keep talking and just think Chris was running the vac or something!

Almost ready for a test ride of Matt's Hydro pedal's...

Talked with JoeBob yesterday. I think we are both going to make this show...it does look like a good time.