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Here is an attached pic of my tractor for reference.

Just a few pics of the rear tires sand blasted, primed and painted.

Everyone has an opinion, and that is what the above comments are, one person's opinion. However, since using ONLY ethanol-free gas in my horses and other small engines, I have eliminated the need for all additives, and I have ZERO problems with gumming or moisture issues. And in my OPINION, fuel stabilzers and additives were created and designed to put money in the pockets of those manufacturing and selling it. Again just my opinion.

What you found in your fuel bowl is not Ethonal, but in realilty stale fuel and varnish from years of build up on the inside of the fuel tank, lines, fuel pump and carb bowl. Ethonal is a from grain alcohol, alcohol is a great "cleaner" of the fuel system. What it does is loosen up the varnish from the metal tanks and lines. Then the bad happens, it gets sucked into the carb. We had many problems with this years ago with our customers boats. Add a good filter and change regulary. A few more tanks of fuel the entire system will be clean and easily run on Ethonal added fuel. Note only use up to 10 % Ethonal. Now the very bad, Ethonal since it is alcohol attracts water, is set and vented to the atmosphere it will naturally attract water and if enough water is introduced the molecules will seperate, This is called Phase seperation, you will get layers of water the lowest, then the alcohol, grey in color, then the poor fuel sitting on top. Just be careful and add fuel treatments such as Star Tron and change your filters frequently. Good luck Al

My 3 favorites of mine. Sorry,got a little carried away on pictures. My 57 I just got back together a month or 2 ago My 55 that I believe is still in its original paint, also has the cast iron nose weight And another 57 I have

Let's get this party started

A good way to clean that fuel bowl is to put it in the microwave for about 3 minutes on high. Listen carefully and remove when popping stops. Enjoy a healthy snack while admiring your clean carburetor bowl!

Now I suppose you'll be asking the federal government for subsidies and looking for bigger carburetors to increase your yield! PS.....how in the hell did Indian corn get in your bowl?

Why are you using gas with ethanol? You have the good fortune to live in a state that has not prevented you from buying the good stuff, take advantage of it. Go to buyrealgas.com, put in your zip code and it will show you where you can get the real thing.

Figured I may throw this out to my RS family. My fire department is in a contest to win a $1250 grant through Illinois American Water. I know it doesn't seem like much but with our budget constantly getting cut back due to falling property taxes it would help a bunch! You do not need a facebook account or to sign in, just follow the link and with one click you can vote. I'll post the direct link below please vote for Godfrey Fire Protection District. And I'll also post a link to our facebook page and the link is posted on there daily too. The contest runs through the 15th of this month and you can vote 1x a day so please keep coming back if you can and feel free to share or re-post! You can also vote per device you have(phone, tablet, laptop, PC, etc). Anyway, appreciate any help we're in 2nd place but not by far. Direct link to vote for Godfrey Fite Protection District http://bit.ly/1IFAfvU Or here is our facebook page and link is posted on there daily: https://m.facebook.com/godfreyfire?tsid=0.3300187070854008&source=typeahead Thanks so much for any help. Ben

for vince heres a couple I have

I'll take the liberty to post my brothers (VinsRJ) '54 prototype with hand built fiberglass hood. No picture I've seen yet does this thing justice.

That is crazy Steve....how much you want to bet she was texting while driving. Glad everyone is ok..........the old Dino can't be taken out that easily!

Ethanol is made from corn. I guess enough of the corns DNA was still in the product to create life once again.

That's a-maize-ing!

Take it apart - you know you want to.

Good to hear everyone is safe but look on the ironic side of things (It was RED );)

This is a 1957 RJ-35 project which is patiently waiting in the haymow, lots of rust, but lots of potential too.

You probably already know this, but be sure to have a structural engineer check out your foundation and sill plate. Depending on when that house was built the sill plate could have been attached to the foundation with nails (dont get me started on how this has affected my life) and even though it looks OK from the outside there may be some more serious damage that shows up later. Better safe (and paid for by her insurance!) than sorry! Glad to hear you all are OK! There is a tree next door to my parents house (30mph street, slight bend), it sees this once or twice a year:

here's a 1956 Brian

My Son made some Wheel Horse decals at school. They're a pretty good match to earlier originals. The r and s are slightly different. Finishes it off IMO. MU

This picture almost makes the tires look too wide... Is that possible?? lol

I'd use it there are no rare or hard to come by parts for them and the 8hp is a work horse. As for the patina or restore it's all about what you want to do with it. But of your looking for votes I'd vote for patina. It took almost 50 years to look that good and you'll never duplicate it. :)

my original 1956 Brian

I went to an old friends tire shop to buy 2 new tires for my van. He asked if I was still into old Wheel Horse's and I said yes! He had 2 for sale and was going to Portland swap meet this week with them. He said one was the type that had the motor down between your legs! I told him I was interested in it and he said the hood was missing and the motor was too. No problem, how much do you want for it? He said $75.00. We went to look at it and it was a nice little 1960 Model 400 that was in good shape, 4 good tires, front rims were nice, good steering wheel, rear hitch wasn't even locked up and still worked with the lift handle, one good foot rest and the trans was in good shape and shifted like it should. I told him I would take it and the deal was made. I took it home and gave it the once over, wire wheeled the rust off of it, added the dual rear wheels for fun and sprayed it with WD 40. Now it looks pretty good, I have a 4 hp Kohler in the parts shed and a friend may have a junky 1960 hood he can sell me. I think this is a early production 1960 due to the old 1958-59 small butt seat, old style of General front tires and the 58-59 style of foot rest's. Pretty cool little machine!

Well I thought I had a gas tank. Turns out it's the smaller version that used to come mounted on the Kohler engines. I remembered I had been watching a guy on Ebay that had NOS tanks that were the correct size but the outlet is at the wrong end and the fill opening is about 2" off. I figured it was my best option so I bought one. It fits in there under the hood just fine. Just have to have a little longer fuel line. It's perfect inside and out. No corrosion whatsoever.

Here is the link to the manual for your 856...just click on the link. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/download/1843-tractor-1966-856-da-om-ipl-wiring-687pdf/ The #1576 is the original Wheel Horse #...the belt is a 70" x 1/2". It is worth it to get your belt from your TORO dealer. The belt is made with a different bevel then a belt from (say) NAPA. The TORO belt is made to slip on the drive pulley when the clutch is depressed. The tabs under the belt cover funnel the slack in the belt towards the drive pulley when the clutch is depressed, and this lets the transmission input pulley come to a stop so you can shift without grinding.

When's the next asteroid fly by??

As I read your post title, I thought...If you are looking for an argument, you're going to have to find another subject !

No offense meant Dad, just a humorous picture. You do realize that as a Browns fan I have to have a sense of humor just to watch em. lol

Is that what Brady uses to inflate his ego?

Here we go... The intent of this thread will be for members to post pictures of they're 1955 to 1957 RJ 35 model tractors. There will not be any voting, winners or losers just a thread for everyone to see pictures of this model. Please post your pics.

sorry, no pics right now... but my 502 really pulled it off. I've been working a spot since last fall so my girls can have their own garden and keep the pumpkin seeds out of the yard and Monday I picked up 200' of fencing to keep the critters away from my dinner. we ended up with more perimeter than the dirt I turned last year so I played with my 12" 1 bottom plow that grampa gave me and the brinly disc. I can't see the difference between the fresh turned addition and the fall time discing - short of some sod I need to toss out. I love my little red tractor! the lift cable decided after all these years it wanted to be separated, but it was on my last plow run before I put the disc on.

Yeh he had 2 and one was a 1970-71 vertical shaft junker that I didn't want and he had to have $200 out of it but I already had one similar to it.

You got it, Ben.

I'd strongly suggest filling the front tires with R/V anti freeze for extra weight up front. The nut roasters flip backwards REAL easy, ask me how I know....

Thanks James, no need to be stunned but grinning madly is allowed Morning chaps, yesterday was a busy day in the workshop.. I wasn't happy with how the battery box sat, so I cut it off and started again.. It's a bit hard to get photo's as it's tucked away in the chassis, but it has a mounting bolt at the back, two underneath... And one on the side.. Plenty strong enough now A rare photo of Nigel smiling A very narrow axle.. And lot's of parts on and under a fold up table... Which can only mean one thing..... The strip down has started so I can fully weld up the chassis

The switch "map" for the tractor shows these terminals connected together in the RUN position In the OFF position - no connections between any terminals And in the START position

No patents on the deflector control Paul. If you put one on, feel free to post a pic here. Before I got the tall chute blower, I had three short chutes and put the rubber flap on one of them with the intention of comparing the with / without blowers. When I got the tall chute, I sold the shortys before I had a chance to do the test. My feeling is, closing the gap can only help. I have found most engines , especially 2 stroke outboards have a sweet spot where the run and sound much happier. The 220 ONAN in my 520 seems to be much happier at 3000 than at 3600. So my blower is running about 20% slower than if I ran at WOT , and with the foot control, I am constantly adjusting the forward motion to match the conditions so my engine never bogs down. Going from a 5" to 4" pulley will increase the blower RPM about 20%. So I am roughly back to max blower RPM at a lower engine RPM . And yes at less power, But I don't see that being a problem with the foot control. Thanks for the bungee link.

With all those implements, what you need now is another 520!

How many did RickV have to sell at his auction?? -- Seems like he may have been in double figures

Wow. Glad everyone is alright.

Glad you are OK, but from now on keep your house out of traffic.

Bigger metal piece on the chute front contorl and xtra control for the top of chute deflector chute throat primed / or differant paint center of auger in middle xtra steel reinforced did you modify the chute turning control? Not sure,,,,,,,,,,, Ok, I put the magnifying glass away. Good custom touch. Glenn

Moving the Christmas tree. lol

Here are close up pics of rim/tire clearance

I used a linen beige on the rims.

My 76 wheels were almond/ linen biege/off white ect. The wheels match the linen wheel caps.

Yeah, whats up with that???