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Part 1 I rewrote the parts list from an 18 Automatic Parts Manual because it contained errors, and I wanted it to basically be used as a simple checklist. I also began {term used rather loosely} to make what I am referring to as an Assembly Order List. Essentially a list of how I think my tractor should be reassembled in a logical order. In this first part I will commit to complete steps 1-23. The edge trim on the axle openings is my addition not OEM. What I started with, Pics 1-4. The frame, Pics 5-8. Assembly Order List, 9. The front axle, 10-11. Grease fittings, 12-13. Axle Pivot. 14. Washers, 15. Lock-nuts, 16. Hex-Bolts, 17. Edge trim, 18-22. Thrust washer (upper), 23. Thrust bearing, 24. Thrust washer (lower), 25. Left spindle, 26. Left "E" clip, 27. Right "E" clip, 28. AO page 1 Complete, 29. Next update may be awhile as I need to have both some machining and welding done before I can complete AO page #2. P.S. The frame pictured is not original to this tractor, but it is from an 18 Automatic, even though this frame is not equipped with the seat mount spring. I removed it, in order to add a hydro fan. The axle and 1" spindles are from a different tractor as well, and consequently Item # 17 and #22 both have part #'s for the 3/4" "E"-Ring clip. This should be replaced with the part # for the 1" "E"-Ring clip. I just didn't have that part # readily available when I made the AO list. This list also has the part #'s listed for the 3/4" parts in steps 2 and 13-21.

This is why reading Craigs list is dangerous. I find another cart yesterday. Just like the one I bought a few months back. This one lead a easy life and lived in a garage. The owner took the dump handle off and bolted the cart and hitch together. He just used it to haul. The bed is very nice. No deep rust pits. Over the years he painted the rims to match his 310-8 wheel horse. I just hit it with the hose to get most of the dust off. The shape is pretty darn good. Needless to say I feel like I struck gold. The best part. Less than a mile away from home. When I pulled in the driveway to smuggle it in. The Mrs. Pulled in right before me. Suprisingly. No reprecussions. Enjoy the pics. Glenn

I had a listing on ebay for my 96' 520 with 60" deck. Got to taling with a potential buyer and he offered up his C160 plus some cash on top. He is from Rochester NY and I am in CT. He made the trip out to my place today to make the trade. I would think it is about 5 1/2 hours each way...He is a really nice guy and knows his horses for sure. He has traveled around the country buying out many Wheel Horse dealers back in the late 90's. He went to the 2nd annual Wheel Horse show in PA but then life got in the way of his hobby so he sold a lot of his stuff and lost interested. He did manage to restore this one back in 07'. Did a nut and bolt restoration including rebuilt motor and tranny, auto paint, upgraded front end to the HD spindles and all new wiring. Since his restore he tried not to really work it. He also has a 520-8 that he uses as a worker. He and I are both happy and I got some parts to boot. I am not thrilled bringing a tractor to the big show that i did not restore myself however i think this one will be there for sure. I plan on pulling the wheels tomorrow and painting them the correct white. Has a few touch ups to do no the rear end and throw on the wide 10.50 on 520 rims to give it the look I want. Here she is...

That,s nice. I drove through a torrential rainstorm to get my cart. It will be making it's first show appearance this year.

Issues with a starter solenoid can arise when the internals of the solenoid become pitted and vaporized from repeated high current arcing. This is a very easy condition to check by measuring voltage drop across the solenoid terminals. Set your meter on low volts scale (2 volt or 20 volt scale). Connect one lead of the meter to each of the large terminals on the solenoid. Crank the engine with the spark plug temporarily disconnected. Note the voltage reading on the voltmeter. Whatever voltage you see on the meter is indicative of a power loss in the solenoid - power that should be going to the starter but is being dissipated as heat in the solenoid. Typical voltage drop in a solenoid should be much less the 0.5 volts (half a volt). If you see one or two volts dropped across the solenoid, a replacement is needed.

Big thanks to Ross who sold me his 417-8 Speed without finagling! Made the 140+ mile drive to get the tractor with the Series II KT Twin on it and remembered something else that came on these machines. The 12 volt DC lift for the attachments. (Plus a shiny chrome air cleaner and a little chrome left on the muffler). It needs work but my plans are to bring it back close to it's former self. The carb needs a cleaning and new lines plus plugs, points & condenser. It doesn't run bad considering the condition of the plugs and points! PS....that lift cycles faster than I thought it would. Much easier to pick a height for the deck than the 520 was before it lost it's mowing privileges.

I know I'll get flamed but I'll take a C-160 over a 520 any day.

Very nice. The 7-2211 was produced 1968-1974 and they made so much product those years that they used the 493435 serial number in each of them. The 1971-1974 models would have had a -6, -7, -8 or -9 suffix following the model number. That leaves this one a 1968, 1969 or 1970 model. Garry

Can you guess? Ha. Its been a little cutoff at the knees. Got a nearly complete 80's 520H that was in rough shape. Guy bought it for the engine to use on his Deere. He started parting it out but I was the first buyer and got the whole thing for a real good price. He was a good guy! Much of the tins and the deck were not salvageable so they were donated to his scrap pile. You can also get a peak at the really clean low hour Onan P220 I got from Carl (zieg72) today as well. Oh and the oil is from the tranny filter bracket the guy put in my bed and flipped over . At least now my rubber bed mat, ratchet strap and half of my rented trailer will not rust. AND i know. i know the trailer is the wrong color! Sunbelt can still beat everyone around for a half day trailer rental....

I don't think a safety switch would stop the lights from working. Thanks for the good news!!!!!!!! Should I jack up the seat and drive a new tractor under it???????

That isn't an Allis Chalmers horse, that's an Industrial Electro. As for the value it would depend on how many others are for sale and if the color isn't a deal breaker. In my area you could probably get $700 to $800 for that package, may be higher or lower in your area.

Wow Glenn , that looks pretty much brand new , she is a real beauty . Even sweeter that the Mrs didn't mind the new arrival.

Well i finally got a little time to try the marker test. You guys were right. I took off the hubs and there was one keyway in one and the other was missing. Thanks for the help!

Was at Steve's house today looking for some RJ parts. He had a guy coming 5.5 hours to do some horse trading. Just as he was about to leave, Steve remembered he needed to get a picture for this thread but his phone was down in the barn so I took it for him. Steve got a very nice restored C-160 and the other guy got one of his 520s. So here what was in his mirror on the way home:

probably not going to chop that one , but i am in the process of chopping the top on my `30 ford coupe project

If the welding doesn't work out, send me a PM. I've got some laying around. Depending on where you live, might be a short drive to pick up.

The only GTs I can think of out today are deere, cub, simplicity, husq / Dixon / craftsman, and is Ingersoll still around? I think what has happened is that the 5-7k gt has been filled with premium ztrs when the primary job is mowing. The people who want snow and ground work, by a scut with 0% for 72months deals making 20k doable, and you get good machines that can do more with loaders etc. I think the market has gotten small to a point where it is niche now someone that looks at a simplicity might buy a scag. And big box store machines have their place ans price point.

I have at least 30 wheel lug nut kits to bring. They, along with the brake linings will be available for sale or trade.

Awesome! Thanks for the information...You know after seeing that last picture I vaguely remember that piece being on there at one point. (I've had this tractor for years). Once I get the rear welded up and repaired, I will go back to looking at the original issue.

This is the guide you're missing from your cover.

It has been my son's dream since he was twelve years old, to be an Officer in the Marine Corp. Yesterday, my son, Jeff, was promoted from Staff Sargent, to 2nd Lieutenant, USMC. First salute as an officer from his dad. 2nd Lt. Jeffrey Thomas Evans, USMC.

Yep, I think the post above me may be on to something. Scotty, check out your hubs compared to the axles...it does sound like a bad key or keyway. Take a magic marker and draw a line across each hub across the axle...if the axle line moves in relation to the line on the hub, you have found the problem. It does not have to be that both are bad to do this.

So, now that I have the trailer I need to put it to use. Today I picked up a 1981 C-145 with a 48" SD deck. It is very original, well maintained, and flawless plastic seat pan (other than being faded.) I'll cut the grass today and polish it up tomorrow for some portrait photos.

Got me another horse this week, 210-H

This weekend, I picked up (what I think is) a mostly original 656! The seat has obviously been replaced, the tires are not original, and had been repainted once or twice in its life time, with the foot rests and pedal being painted black, but it is a very straight machine! (has one dent in the hood, but that's about it) It came with a slot hitch and the original owners manual, and the manuals for a 36" mower deck, 32" snow thrower, and a dozer blade, which did not come with the tractor . The previous owner said that he bought the tractor at an auction from the original owner, which is exciting! The HH60 in the tractor, is being typical tecumseh-like, and is giving me problems. It has given me a few putts, maybe so far a total of 15-20 seconds of run time. So, it does run! I haven't dug deep into it yet, but I do have a spark tester, and it seems as if the spark is very intermittent. I've pulled it over probably a hundred times now, and my hand hurts. The sad thing is that the electric start on the tractor doesn't work (I even put the battery straight to the positive of the starter and got nothing) so I feel that it may have a few electrical gremlins that may have to be sorted out. I've never dealt with points yet in my life, and I feel like it's going to be something I'm going to have to check, so wish me luck and anyone that has any tips or suggestions, please let me know, I highly appreciate it! I have to ask, I know the 606 was a pull start tractor and the 656 is the electric start model, but did the 656 come with the pull start attached to use as a back up? Or was that added on by one of the previous owners at some time? But all in all, I am really excited about this tractor. I think I may use a mower deck with it this summer. I have a 36" deck that should fit right under it, with no problem (as long as I get it running)!

Straight in as you walk into the grounds.On the right You encounter The Dino, Vinylguy, Bob Maynard, buckrancher, Zeek and after that maybe me or BPjunk ect. Depends on what spots are open. It's all first come first serve

Bad corrosion = high resistance= High amperage = hole blown through meter. Chalk up another one for the old timer squonk!

Sounds like what oldredrider said. It sounds as if the belt is not engaging the transmission. Could be a broken belt, could be a problem with a pulley. I'd say take off that side panel where the belt is, and watch what is happening when you are engaging the belt.

My C160 has both ears broken off. The p/o made some steel plates and used them to clamp the bracket down. Worked so well they are still there and I've had the tractor 6 years. I have 3 or 4 spares laying around. I'll change it someday

They are cast iron. You should be able to weld it...or someone may have one for sale. I found one for my B-100 a couple of years ago...they are out there.

To me Cubs are quite a step above puke green.

A bunch of dead tractors and no awesome place with wonderfully great bunch of people to talk to about them !

Go to Northern Tool and look at their pumps. The Cessna Pump had a maximum pressure of 1000 PSI. Operating pressures on the Ark's were between 800 to 900 PSI. (Recommended). The Cessna would turn 2 to 4 GPM at a mx RPM of 4k. (WH turns at 3600 RPM). so use these numbers in your search. Surplus center also handles a lot of pumps and pulleys since you'll probably need to replace it as well. Before searching, measure the shaft length and diameter and the key width also. There are many expensive and as many cheap solutions between these two suppliers. Finding an exact replacement that will use your original brackets will be very hard to accomplish!

Without either... what've we got?

You may also want to check for worn bushing. I was having the same problem then one day the starter hung up on the flywheel. I replaced the bushings and brushes gave it a good cleaning now it works like New.

I will be there same as last year. That was my first show. The first person I met was Terry (vinylguy). The second was Bob Maynard. The only thing I am bringing are my 2 sons. Will try to make it earlier on friday so we can roam around the show for a while. Last year we got to town late friday went right to the hotel and didnt get to the show till Saturday. Looking forward to seeing old faces from last year and meeting folks I missed last year. The countdown is on. It was a great time. Btw, vacationed in the outerbanks half a dozen times, love that place. A great place for a wedding. Glenn

That looks like a brand new mower deck! What color paint did you use...OK, I know RED, but you know what I mean!

that is a big problem over here, parts etc. anyway here is the pictures as promised: hope these help, Callum

111-6 with 30" deck 520-H with 42" deck 520-H with 60" deck Cleat

So here is my 2 cents on all that I have read. I also have a 520 i and it (used) to not start after a hot shutdown. I did many of the above things that were suggested including a thorough electrical check of base line resistances through all the various relays in the start circuit. I finally did change the fuel pump. Did it correct it? Don't know as I got so paranoid, I would never shut if off hot if I needed it again that same day. Two days ago, I did do a hot shut down and 30 minutes later it started just fine. I also tried the gas in the spark plug hole and it ran fine which tells me that you have a fuel problem, not a spark problem. The fuel solenoid shutoff is not getting power during the start cycle. Check all the wiring in the start circuit which provide 12v to this solenoid. The start relay could be the problem or any of the electrical contacts in the start relay circuit. A high resistance at a connector may behave like an open circuit. Any place there is an electrical contact can be suspect, including the ignition switch. Swap the 3 relays around, they are identical. Sometimes just moving the connector on and off is enough to to wipe off any oxide that may have developed. On another note, the thick gasket is a heat isolator. Don't know if you need it or not. It was a frequently used item on auto engines in the 80's to keep heat from the block from getting to the carb and causing vapor lock. Electrical problems require diligence, patience, a wiring diagram and a good multimeter to diagnose. I don't envy you, but there is no other way around it.

I can't honestly say I have scrutinized the "build quality" as the tractor has had zero failures. The front axle is cast iron, tires are Carlisle, fuel line Goodyear, engine Kohler - all familiar names without any penny pinching seen. All maintenance points like grease fittings are readily accessible.The only items I will have to address are lifting paint around the foot pad area and fraying of the seams at the top of the vac collection bags. Other than that, just 2x a year oil changes and the occasional thorn in the tire, but the build quality has been sufficient to enable what I consider above average homeowner use without experiencing any setbacks. Every time I go to start the thing - it does. When I engage the PTO - it does and provides a quality of cut that surpasses anything I have every used before. Just wish the dang thing had a mower deck larger than the 42" on there now! So figuring purchase price divided by 12 years usage - that equates to about $2 a week for reliable turnkey performance. I'm not a Deere fanboy or a WH detractor but I sincerely cannot understand the "big box" bashing that goes on. It's great to have the talent to troubleshoot a broken wire and tackweld a broken joint on demand for a 40 year old garden tractor, but to give someone with modest lawn care needs the impression they are "throwing your money away - you will be sorry" - nah !

sorry for the delay, here are the tyres fitted. only £10 for the pair: callum

You are definitely on the right track. The belt is "grabbing" the engine pulley which causes it to turn and will grind the gears. You'll need to figure out why the belt isn't completely releasing from the engine pulley. Sometimes a new belt is stiff and just needs to get a little wear. Putting it under load should help. With a new belt, I usually drive up to a wall or tree and put a heavy load on it for a couple of minutes. You can also try loosening the bolts around the engine for the belt guard and try moving the guard around in different postions. Sometimes a slight movement is all it takes. Usually it needs to be pulled up to support the bottom loop of the belt. Check the bend in the belt guard around the engine. It's possible the 90 degree bend isn't 90 degrees any more. If it has opened up some, it could cause the issue. Sometimes they go right on with no problem, others need to be played with until you stop it from grabbing the pulley. Post some close up detailed pics of the belt guard around the engine pulley if none of this solves your issue

Well, I sold the half of my parts tractor that I didn't want, so I got room for another! They keep getting older

I asked if anyone tried using water to decarbon a few months ago when I was cleaning up my 520H. I did not try it though. I'm going to get to adjusting valves and decarboning this summer. I'll post some pics of the top of the cylinders

Now we can get serious. Actually it won't be long until it gets its first load. It is a Sure Trac 6'x12' Tube Top Utility..

This is in my Mirror Sorry, it is a little blurry my latest horse, a 2007 315-8

Not a tractor but it is red. Picked up a Lincoln Precision Tig 225 yesterday. Been used three times and has just been sitting. Got the bottle, cart, filler metal. Time to go back to school and let my son teach me something. He graduates from welding school in June.

here's my mirror this morning and if I look back a little 1970 lawn ranger - which was on an auction site for £0.99 a quick email and offer of not much more I went to collect. No money actually exchanged hands in the end