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Here was my first car *cough*truck : It was a 96 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 V6, had 4x4 and a 5 speed. It was a great truck. I learned to drive stick in it, and on the highway, somehow got almost 23 mpg! But it slowly acquired a few problems here and there, and this had became available to me, so I jumped for it, I considered it an upgrade: This also was a 96 Dakota, but had a 318 V8, 4x4, and was also 5 speed. It was essentially a little Ram! I loved this thing. Drove nice, was very comfortable, had plenty of torque, and was quite quick when you put your foot down It would really make the kids in their Honda's angry But it slowly had more and more and more problems and was becoming quite costly, so it was sadly time to move on. So, in December, I went out on a limb, and purchased my first new vehicle, and except for the payments (totally worth it though), I love it! It's a Nissan Frontier Pro-4x. Has a v6 with more power than my v8 dakota, 4x4 with a locking rear diff, and a 6 speed stick, which I absolutely love. The only problem I've had with it so far, is that I got rear ended on my way to get my first oil change. Of course this is when it would happen though......It should all be fixed soon, though.

Wish I had them all back! When I was 13 I took dad's tractor and drug home a 1931 Chrysler sedan for $20. The block was cracked and no red-blooded American teenage boy wanted a flat-head six anyway. Dad was COOL, he let me have a corner of the barn to do my thing. Picked up a '53 Chrysler with the old (331? cu/in) Hemi engine and good transmission for $50. My buddies and I pulled that Hemi and began to fabricate mounts for it; only tools we had were a 1/4"drill and hand tools. When we got it in place I took a pipe cutter and cut the two drive shafts and took them to a welder to have them put together, this was our first adult intervention! Ernie, the welder explained that this would never work. He came down to the barn and laughed himself silly looking at our angle iron motor and transmission mounts! The next day he asked my parents if I could come work for him on Saturdays and learn how to weld, they said yes and within a couple weeks I had stinger in hand. I never finished that car but it paved the way for lots of other successful auto projects. When I went in the Navy at age 17 there were four cars in and around that barn; the '31, a '46 Chevy 1/2 ton, a '47 Dodge Coupe and a '55 Ford Convertible. None of them were derivable and Dad sold them for $50 each, I don't blame him one bit. Since then I have built a few Street Rods and still drive a yellow '48 Ford F1 that I built thirty years ago, it has well over 100,000 miles on it and a few dents and dings, but I'm proud of it.

Hello again. I just thought i'd share a photo or two of my recently acquired Wheelhorse. I found it locally (Sussex) & will hopefully get the plough & possibly bade to go with it. It needs a repaint, new front tyre & has been fitted with a different steering box. The previous owner found it difficult to control when ploughing. Hopefully he's got the original somewhere. The engine turns & with slight compression so hopefullly shouldn't be to bad. Hope you find it interesting. Philip

How do you guys make your coffee? Woke up early this morning at 5:30 to check in for a Monday morning flight (and get upgraded seats ). That took just a couple minutes and then I made coffee. During the week I stop at 7-11 for a cup each morning but on the weekends I love it from my old camp percolator. Its permanently stained on the inside and the pour spot has a dent but she make the best cup-o-joe ever! We have a Kurig machine but the coffee is never quite strong enough since the water passes thru the grounds once....and its not as hot as I would like it either. I've been a Chock-full-of-Nuts brand coffee drinker for 15+ years now, tried a few others but this brand became my favorite. Ol' trusty! Mike..........

Bought this C195 with out a motor, I found a motor, put it in for a test run and it preformed great, then took out the motor and started a paint job. lots to take off yet. but here are a few pics so far. More pics Today I plumbed it for a 3-point, going to try and modify a D-3-point to fit!

This was on the local news this morning. Video of a moose checking out a Wheel Horse and snowblower. http://www.myfoxboston.com/clip/11387709/moose-on-the-loose-chimps-down-drones The following video is also cool. Shows a chimp knocking down a drone with a stick

I picked up my 1961 Wheel Horse 701 tractor with the new lift link made by the M and R Machine Shop in Greencastle today. This is for my front cultivator on my two piece cultivator set. I took the 701 tractor to the machine shop with a request to make a solid lift link for my front cultivator and attach it directly to the center of the rear cross bar on the front cultivator. The M and R Shop made a solid lift link that works great on the front lift. They used 1.4 inch x 1 1/4 inch steel stock. The lift is about 12 1/4 inches long and is twisted in the middle so the link lays flat against the upper rock shaft link on the Wheel Horse and flat against the back side of the front cultivator back cross member. A 3/8 hole was drilled in the center of the back cross member to take a bolt or clevis pin for attaching. Three 3/8 holes were drilled ( 1/2 inch centered apart from each other) and four 3/8 holes ( also 1/2 inch centered) to make for multiple adjustments of height, etc. The hydraulic pump on this tractor will now lift the front wheels off of a concrete surfaced when the cultivators are moved down -like they would be when cultivating. You can also readjust the cultivator shovels as need be when doing your gardening. This 701 tractor is really starting to have a lot of nice features and I have five or six implements to use with it. This lift link is easy to attach also !

Dang...I thought I was the only Dinosaur here. I here you can start your vehicle from inside the house now. What will they think of next??? Craig...don't keep your spare key in the truck...just sayin'. I did not do it, but I know someone who did.

First off, I dont think your kohler has clockwise rotation at the crank. I am 99.9% sure all the engines spin the same way (Counter clockwise from the pto side) And anyway, if it did spin clockwise your unidrive transmission would have one forward speed and three reverse! As for a replacement: What year is it? Some B80's have a "mid" frame (shorter than full size) and your best, and easiest, bet is to rebuild your K181 or find a rebuildable one. If you have the long frame, any K series will pretty much bolt right up (however you will have to get a different drive pulley and PTO sleeve as the crank shaft is larger on the others) A newer magnum will bolt right in but will need wiring changed With a little fab work a harbor freight predator (or other model) can fit.

Clockwise looking at the shaft end? I don't think that's gonna happen. Please take another look at it.

WTeff has happened to ignition keys... and why does a work truck need a key fob?

I was recently reminiscing about all my cars that I have owned over the years and was curious to see other peoples first car that they owed This little car was made in UK back in 60s by Hillman and was called simply the Hillman Imp It had a rear engine and the engine was prone to overheating and the radiator cap pointed directly as the face and I remember my brother refilling a overheated radiator with water and suddenly the engine spurted out scolding water all over his face & chest and he spent three weeks in hospital . Cool little car though but certainly not a chick magnet . Show us your first car

Found this in my local cl ad,the guy said it belonged to his parent and had been in his barn 30+ year so I bought it with out hesitation. I gave the guy $600 all complete but missing frame mounts.

Ok, here's the scene. A few of us guys at work were talking about our old WH's that we work on or had at one time. The subject of more power came up for an old single cylinder (lets just say a 12hp K301). Keep in mind that none of us are pullers and were just looking for the cool factor. I thought that three inline k301's would surely take the cake for coolness. Link up all the pto's to each other, mechanically or with electric clutches. Start only the rear most engine, and when you needed more power, just engage a pto (and also ignition) and send power to next engine to start it and so on. I know there are some real ringers on here when it comes to engines and was just wondering if it was ever done, could be done, or one of my buddies should have thrown a wrench at me?

A big block Kohler will bolt straight on to a mid frame B80 as well. I've had 8, 10, 12 and 16 hp Kohlers on mine over the years!

Let it go guys. People like that aren't going to change.

​ Those Dakotas are great, I had a '87, '96 and now have an '09, the first two gave me over 200K of trouble free hauling, I'm sure this one will too.

THE OLD TRACTOR IS RUNNING NOW. CLEANED THE FUEL SYSTEM OUT PUT THE OLD FUEL PUMP BACK ON AND IT RUNS GREAT. THE CHARGING SYSTEM DIDN'T WORK. THE PROBLEM WAS THE WRONG IGNITION SWITCH. SOMEBODY PUT ONE IN IT FOR A MAGNETO IGNITION INSTEAD OF BATTERY/COIL/POINTS IGITION. NOW IT CHARGES AND LIGHTS WORK. I WISH THEY PUT PART NUMBERS ON THOSE SWITCHES,THEY WERE BOTH 5 TERMINAL. CHANGED MOTOR OIL AND PUT 1 QUART IN THE AUTOMATIC AND SEEMS TO WORK GREAT. I WILL MOUNT THE SEAT AND TAKE FOR A SPIN SOON.

Good deal. So I guess you are gonna keep it. lol

Dialectric grease is fine to use...especially on dis-simular metals.

It's easy to test. If your solenoid uses its case for ground, connect a jumper from the case to the (-) post of the battery. Then connect a jumper to the (+) post of the battery and just touch it to the small lug of the solenoid. It should click or snap, closing the connection between the two large lugs. Now that test only determines if the magnetic coil is good, but doesn't determine if the lugs are actually connecting. For that you will need a meter or a test light to see if there is continuity when they close. But don't waste a lot of time or effort trying to repair it. A new one is only about $10.00 at Tractor Supply. Dielectric grease has it's place, but I have never used it on my tractors.

If you intend to use your plough, remember you have to mount it tilted to allow for the wheels in the furrow. If it is for display/show, then it's fine as is. I

Ain't as nimble as the short box though... maybe just cuz it' still new to me.

recheck the ignition module when the tractor cuts out, when you have no spark they tend to fail when warm. if you do want to get rid of it or trade for another 520 pm me. good luck eric j

Remove that craddle mount and just bolt the engine to the frame unless the 14 you have is from a craddle mount tractor. Doubt you would want a craddle mounted engine for a pulling tractor. What are you doing with the old 8hp Kohler? Send me a PM if you aren't using it for anything and want to sell it

Spring time in Texas and my wheel horses are out of the shop for a couple of photos, thought I would share.

The brake shaft seal is easily replaced without a lot of disassembly. Jack up the rear, take off the left rear wheel, remove the brake band, and remove the brake drum. The seal is rather small, but can be removed with simple tools. First clean the area to be able to see the seal. I take a small 1/8" screwdriver with the blade bent at a 90 degree angle, or a dental pick/hook and insert it between the shaft and the seal. You will be depressing the rubber part of the seal. You don't want to go in too far or you will hit the bearing. You want to hook your tool on the metal or plastic outer portion of the seal. Pull toward you. You may have to move around the shaft until you have pulled the seal completely loose, then slide it off the shaft. Clean the area where the seal was removed. Make sure that there are no rough edges on the shaft. Put some lubricant on the shaft and the seal. I use oil or grease. Then slide the new seal into place, making sure that the open side of the seal is in toward the bearing. Once it is against the opening, I use a piece of plastic pipe that just fits over the shaft to push the seal into place. If you don't have that, just carefully tap the seal into place evenly until it is flush with the face of the transmission. Don't use anything sharp that will damage the seal. That should do it.

Back at it again this spring. 5 gardens done this Sunday.

I was able to put 2 10.00x22 truck tires in the trunk AND close the lid!

Found an image of what my '71 300 looked like. Mine was Maroon, then I had a green one. The Green one inherited the 440+6 when the maroon rusted a torsion bar mount out.

Today, I brought out the late 60's tractors! My 1277, Charger 12, and Work Horse 700. I'm going to change the oil on them soon, engine and transmission, probably put in some new fuel filters, and the Charger 12 needs a good carb cleaning. I'm prolly gonna order the kit to do that soon, and I want to order some new fuel line and change that on most of my tractors. I also accidentally found out today, that with the new small motor on the Work Horse, and no attachments on it, it does VERY serious wheelies if you take off in third gear too hard. I scared myself quite a bit (and the girlfriend ). I am certain that I will never do that again. But regardless, It was a beautiful day, and it was nice to get some of the tractors out and stretch their legs!

That brings back some great memories Mike. We now use a typical low buck coffee maker but I remember using a percolator for years. The very best coffee was made over a campfire on a damp chilly morning and drank from a tin cup (carefully).

Thanks Nappy Not much to report, the left side foot plate thingy is taking shape. As you can see it needed quite a bit of extra metal to get it to the right shape. And a slight change of plan. The frame I made to be welded under the fender pan is now being welded to the chassis. And the latest Why Not video for ya all..

My first car: 1994 Pontiac Bonneville. I loved that car. Packed a heck of a punch with that 3.8L V6 too and could haul 5 friends comfortably. Got her at just under 40K miles and had to sell her at 161K because an idiot in pickup truck decided to eat my trunk at 35mph as I was stopped for a passing emergency vehicle. She had a maroon velvet-like interior, my wife (GF at the time) was happy to see her go. I still miss her, but I sure do like my truck!

My first NEW car was a 1987 Nissan 300ZX Turbo. In 87, there were only a few options available, Electronics package, Digital Dash and Leather. Mine had all 3 plus a 5-speed manual and a Garrett T3 Turbo. What makes mine even rarer is it has a limited slip rear diff, which according to the Z31 enthusiasts wasn't available until April of 1987, mine is a March 1987. Like a few of the others, this is NOT my car. My car is sitting in my garage and in awesome condition with 87K miles! Still a blast to drive and love when the turbo winds up!

My first car was a 1981 Mustang: Had a 255 V8, the smallest V8 ever in a Mustang.. bought it used in 1988, from Elmira NY, when I was 19 years old. drove her all through college and a few years beyond.. I LOVED that car! By 1994 it was time to take it off the road..13 years old was quite elderly for a car of that era, it had 150,000 miles, and lots of things were starting to go wrong.. I tried to keep it, but had no where under a roof to store it.. so I parked it in a back corner of my parents property, covered by tarps.. By year 2000 it had turned into a pile of rust, and I had to have it towed away to that great junkyard in the sky.. RIP Mustang, I will never forget you.. Scot

My first car was actually a truck, a 1964 Ford F-100 handed down from my brother Dave when he joined the navy. It was his first ride as well. I got my balls busted all the time about it in school. all it took was one kid to say it looked like a milk truck and that was it, EVERYONE called it the milk truck for the next few yrs.. Sure wish it was still around, it was a lot of fun.. Yes, this is an actual pic. My second car was a heck of a lot more exciting.. Since we are on the topic of first cars.. This is my father in law Joe's 61 Ford Fairlane, it was his first car. He special ordered it when he was 19 yrs. old with every speed option you could get. The largest engine you could get from Ford at that time was a 400 hp 390 which it had along with a 4 speed and 4.56 gears. My father in law did everything he could do to max out the hp on the 390 (within the gray are of the rule book.) He could easily handle hangin and beatin the 409's and 413 Mopars but when Chevy came out with the 427's he started to get spanked. So.. He was able to purchase a 427 side oiler new from the dealer which he built from the ground up. Bye bye Chevy's as he put it.. So where is this car today? It is sittin up on blocks in his garage as it has been since 1968. Why? Father in law said the car became outdated and he wouldn't be embarrassed so he built race cars for his friends and when they were too chicken to run them at the track he did the drivin as well. The Fairlane never spent a night outside, in fact it was never even registered, it was a track car only. It has 2500 miles on it, mostly from flat towing it to the track. My mother in law wouldn't let him sell it because she said she never even got a ride in it so until that happens it ain't goin anywhere. My father in law died this past September. It is now a PRIORITY of my mother in law (and the rest of the family) to make it happen for her, hopefully this summer. If there is one guy in this world my father in law didn't like it was the guy that owned this Impala wagon. Don't kid yourself it was a full blown race car, 427 with dual quads and a 4 speed. The owner of it owned his own speed shop, the House of Speed out of Norwalk CT. My father in law and this guy wound up having to race each other all the time and the results were always the same, The Impala beats him off the line (no lack of traction out of that wagon) and the wagon would lose by a car length. Then the owner of the wagon would force my father in law to tear his engine down(for a fee) to have the officials check it out to make sure he was within the rules. The guy would always shoot off that a legal 390 could never beat him. Well, never caught cheating and that really pissed the Impala guy off. The one time the Impala beat my father in law Joe decided to return the favor and forced him to tear it down. Guess what, he cheated! They never raced again, once the guy heard there was now a 427 under the hood of Joe Walko's Ford he disappeared.

72 Buick Riviera with a 454. Swiped this pic from the net but pretty much the same car and color. Gas was cheap back then and this car sucked it down quick. A big heavy luxury car but could easily light the tires up without brake standing it.

That would have been appropriate Mike. A friend had a 62 Falcon with the 170 and he split the exhaust manifold and installed true duals. Cool little car. Here's the car I bought new right after graduating in 73. 73 Pontiac Venture Sprint (actual scanned picture). Paid $2750 off the showroom floor Had a 350 and I milled the heads to raise the 7.3 to 1 compression ratio and installed an intake manifold and quadrajunk from a ram air GTO and duals. It's the car that caused my friends to give me the nickname 'Racinbob'. The truck (1985) and trailer was just scanned with it. It had the 300 inline six and pulled that trailer with ease (almost). The pic of the truck alone was sent to me by my daughter in Indiana a couple months ago. She thought it was my old truck and she was right. Apparently it still is running.

I had a 74 Nova hatchback. It was blue with an inline 250 and a 3 speed auto....but with a set of rally rims and some air shocks it looked like a racecar ! After about 4 or 5 months I flipped it.....moved down to a 74 Vega GT next. Neither of these are pics of mine, just images I borrowed from Google....I gotta learn how to get my old snapshots made digital. Mike...........

1949 Dodge Coronet with a Gyro-Matic transmission. This is a representative photo exactly like mine minus the whitewalls. Bought by my brother in 1964 for $325.00 in perfect shape. He gave it to me in 1967 when he bought his '67 Firebird 400, and I sold it when I enlisted in the USCG in 1969 for $100.00. At one time I was going to paint "Bumble Bee" stripes on it but my brother didn't like that idea. His compromise was use of the Firebird! The rear seat was like a sofa - great for doubling at the drive-in.

1963 Chevy II Aqua Blue. Mine was a two door. Straight 6 with a 3-speed on the column.

1971 Chrysler 300 with a nicely warmed over 440 six-pack. Mine was Maroon:

After this I hit it with the da and by hand with sandpaper A little degreaser & primer and that's all she gets until paint

Had the rear hydraulic welded hope it holds up

So I immediately start looking for a tractor to put it on with a plan to fab my own frame mount when I ran into this in cl. It almost looks like my loader was on it at one point but the two were about 100 miles away from each other. 300$ for everything,realy I just bought it for the frame mounts

Thanks! I have a long way to go.But......Front axle is tacked in,spindles made but just need a little cleaning and rounding off of the corners.Got to get some steering rod ends so I can make the tie rods and get the arms welded to the spindles.Also need some bushings so the wheels dont wobble.Should have a little rake to it.It's still sitting on a stand to keep it from rolling off my table,as it is too short now that the frame is longer.

Update: With the starter/generator opened, we see what's inside. First thing we see is the bearing and the hardened grease. The next picture shows the bearing, the commutator, the brushes and the "A" and "F" terminals. This picture shows the carbon build-up inside. I cleaned the inside with compressed air, then gave it a wash out with kerosene. Let it dry overnight before continuing. Upon close inspection of the wire connected to the "A" terminal, I noticed that one large bundle of strands was loose, and appeared to have been shorted to the brush holder. I replaced the terminals, but was unable to connect the wires to them by conventional soldering. I don't know how it was done at the factory, but after a session of I decided to afix copper strapping to the ends of the terminals. I used copper pipe hangers, drilled a 1/4" hole to fit over the split stud, took a cold chisel and cut a cross notch, and tapped it with a hammer to secure the strap. I then tinned the inside of the copper, wrapped it around the wire and soldered. I made sure that there was a gap between the wire, the strap, and the brush holder. I cleaned the armature and commutator, installed a new sealed bearing in the pulley end, inserted the commutator into the S/G, and installed new brushes. I installed a new bearing in the other end and closed it up. That's all for now. I will install the regulator and put it back on the tractor later this week and do some tests. More to follow...