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Here was my first car *cough*truck : It was a 96 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 V6, had 4x4 and a 5 speed. It was a great truck. I learned to drive stick in it, and on the highway, somehow got almost 23 mpg! But it slowly acquired a few problems here and there, and this had became available to me, so I jumped for it, I considered it an upgrade: This also was a 96 Dakota, but had a 318 V8, 4x4, and was also 5 speed. It was essentially a little Ram! I loved this thing. Drove nice, was very comfortable, had plenty of torque, and was quite quick when you put your foot down It would really make the kids in their Honda's angry But it slowly had more and more and more problems and was becoming quite costly, so it was sadly time to move on. So, in December, I went out on a limb, and purchased my first new vehicle, and except for the payments (totally worth it though), I love it! It's a Nissan Frontier Pro-4x. Has a v6 with more power than my v8 dakota, 4x4 with a locking rear diff, and a 6 speed stick, which I absolutely love. The only problem I've had with it so far, is that I got rear ended on my way to get my first oil change. Of course this is when it would happen though......It should all be fixed soon, though.

Wish I had them all back! When I was 13 I took dad's tractor and drug home a 1931 Chrysler sedan for $20. The block was cracked and no red-blooded American teenage boy wanted a flat-head six anyway. Dad was COOL, he let me have a corner of the barn to do my thing. Picked up a '53 Chrysler with the old (331? cu/in) Hemi engine and good transmission for $50. My buddies and I pulled that Hemi and began to fabricate mounts for it; only tools we had were a 1/4"drill and hand tools. When we got it in place I took a pipe cutter and cut the two drive shafts and took them to a welder to have them put together, this was our first adult intervention! Ernie, the welder explained that this would never work. He came down to the barn and laughed himself silly looking at our angle iron motor and transmission mounts! The next day he asked my parents if I could come work for him on Saturdays and learn how to weld, they said yes and within a couple weeks I had stinger in hand. I never finished that car but it paved the way for lots of other successful auto projects. When I went in the Navy at age 17 there were four cars in and around that barn; the '31, a '46 Chevy 1/2 ton, a '47 Dodge Coupe and a '55 Ford Convertible. None of them were derivable and Dad sold them for $50 each, I don't blame him one bit. Since then I have built a few Street Rods and still drive a yellow '48 Ford F1 that I built thirty years ago, it has well over 100,000 miles on it and a few dents and dings, but I'm proud of it.

Hello again. I just thought i'd share a photo or two of my recently acquired Wheelhorse. I found it locally (Sussex) & will hopefully get the plough & possibly bade to go with it. It needs a repaint, new front tyre & has been fitted with a different steering box. The previous owner found it difficult to control when ploughing. Hopefully he's got the original somewhere. The engine turns & with slight compression so hopefullly shouldn't be to bad. Hope you find it interesting. Philip

How do you guys make your coffee? Woke up early this morning at 5:30 to check in for a Monday morning flight (and get upgraded seats ). That took just a couple minutes and then I made coffee. During the week I stop at 7-11 for a cup each morning but on the weekends I love it from my old camp percolator. Its permanently stained on the inside and the pour spot has a dent but she make the best cup-o-joe ever! We have a Kurig machine but the coffee is never quite strong enough since the water passes thru the grounds once....and its not as hot as I would like it either. I've been a Chock-full-of-Nuts brand coffee drinker for 15+ years now, tried a few others but this brand became my favorite. Ol' trusty! Mike..........

Bought this C195 with out a motor, I found a motor, put it in for a test run and it preformed great, then took out the motor and started a paint job. lots to take off yet. but here are a few pics so far. More pics Today I plumbed it for a 3-point, going to try and modify a D-3-point to fit!

This was on the local news this morning. Video of a moose checking out a Wheel Horse and snowblower. http://www.myfoxboston.com/clip/11387709/moose-on-the-loose-chimps-down-drones The following video is also cool. Shows a chimp knocking down a drone with a stick

I picked up my 1961 Wheel Horse 701 tractor with the new lift link made by the M and R Machine Shop in Greencastle today. This is for my front cultivator on my two piece cultivator set. I took the 701 tractor to the machine shop with a request to make a solid lift link for my front cultivator and attach it directly to the center of the rear cross bar on the front cultivator. The M and R Shop made a solid lift link that works great on the front lift. They used 1.4 inch x 1 1/4 inch steel stock. The lift is about 12 1/4 inches long and is twisted in the middle so the link lays flat against the upper rock shaft link on the Wheel Horse and flat against the back side of the front cultivator back cross member. A 3/8 hole was drilled in the center of the back cross member to take a bolt or clevis pin for attaching. Three 3/8 holes were drilled ( 1/2 inch centered apart from each other) and four 3/8 holes ( also 1/2 inch centered) to make for multiple adjustments of height, etc. The hydraulic pump on this tractor will now lift the front wheels off of a concrete surfaced when the cultivators are moved down -like they would be when cultivating. You can also readjust the cultivator shovels as need be when doing your gardening. This 701 tractor is really starting to have a lot of nice features and I have five or six implements to use with it. This lift link is easy to attach also !

Dang...I thought I was the only Dinosaur here. I here you can start your vehicle from inside the house now. What will they think of next??? Craig...don't keep your spare key in the truck...just sayin'. I did not do it, but I know someone who did.

First off, I dont think your kohler has clockwise rotation at the crank. I am 99.9% sure all the engines spin the same way (Counter clockwise from the pto side) And anyway, if it did spin clockwise your unidrive transmission would have one forward speed and three reverse! As for a replacement: What year is it? Some B80's have a "mid" frame (shorter than full size) and your best, and easiest, bet is to rebuild your K181 or find a rebuildable one. If you have the long frame, any K series will pretty much bolt right up (however you will have to get a different drive pulley and PTO sleeve as the crank shaft is larger on the others) A newer magnum will bolt right in but will need wiring changed With a little fab work a harbor freight predator (or other model) can fit.

Clockwise looking at the shaft end? I don't think that's gonna happen. Please take another look at it.

WTeff has happened to ignition keys... and why does a work truck need a key fob?

Found this in my local cl ad,the guy said it belonged to his parent and had been in his barn 30+ year so I bought it with out hesitation. I gave the guy $600 all complete but missing frame mounts.

Nothing got in my eyes but I had the strangest situation with a wire wheel strand. I was cleaning some screw threads using a wire wheel in my drill press. Didn't think anything of it. When I was finished working on the project, I went to take a shower and all of a sudden there is something that I can't see sticking in the top of my left shoulder. It actually was facing towards the outside. I got my wife to look and she took a 3/4" piece of wire from the wire wheel out of my shoulder. I can not figure out how it got there as I was wearing a jacket, flannel shirt, and T-shirt while cleaning the screws. I just can't stress enough to wear goggles or wrap-around safety glasses while using anything that rotates.

I Guess since I am young I can keep the toys I made memories with to pass them on...

You've done a great job, a tractor to be proud of...

Looks like that'll work pretty good, Lane.

How can his seat not be heated?

Brandon and Bob...absolutely correct. I think I saw in one of these threads about this that the rotation is from the fly wheel side (or the fan side)...in that case it is a clockwise rotation...but the PTO side of the engine would be counter-clock wise. And that goes for ALL of the single piston, horizontal shaft Kohlers (K series).

​ Those Dakotas are great, I had a '87, '96 and now have an '09, the first two gave me over 200K of trouble free hauling, I'm sure this one will too.

Sounds good Mike. Just in time for cutting season to begin.

Ready to shoot.... Hope the color comes close Trying the color on the engine cover first... What do you guys think?

Good deal. So I guess you are gonna keep it. lol

How good of a friend? to Condition and location really make a difference in prices.

Dialectric grease is fine to use...especially on dis-simular metals.

It's easy to test. If your solenoid uses its case for ground, connect a jumper from the case to the (-) post of the battery. Then connect a jumper to the (+) post of the battery and just touch it to the small lug of the solenoid. It should click or snap, closing the connection between the two large lugs. Now that test only determines if the magnetic coil is good, but doesn't determine if the lugs are actually connecting. For that you will need a meter or a test light to see if there is continuity when they close. But don't waste a lot of time or effort trying to repair it. A new one is only about $10.00 at Tractor Supply. Dielectric grease has it's place, but I have never used it on my tractors.

Ain't as nimble as the short box though... maybe just cuz it' still new to me.

recheck the ignition module when the tractor cuts out, when you have no spark they tend to fail when warm. if you do want to get rid of it or trade for another 520 pm me. good luck eric j

Remove that craddle mount and just bolt the engine to the frame unless the 14 you have is from a craddle mount tractor. Doubt you would want a craddle mounted engine for a pulling tractor. What are you doing with the old 8hp Kohler? Send me a PM if you aren't using it for anything and want to sell it

Spring time in Texas and my wheel horses are out of the shop for a couple of photos, thought I would share.

The brake shaft seal is easily replaced without a lot of disassembly. Jack up the rear, take off the left rear wheel, remove the brake band, and remove the brake drum. The seal is rather small, but can be removed with simple tools. First clean the area to be able to see the seal. I take a small 1/8" screwdriver with the blade bent at a 90 degree angle, or a dental pick/hook and insert it between the shaft and the seal. You will be depressing the rubber part of the seal. You don't want to go in too far or you will hit the bearing. You want to hook your tool on the metal or plastic outer portion of the seal. Pull toward you. You may have to move around the shaft until you have pulled the seal completely loose, then slide it off the shaft. Clean the area where the seal was removed. Make sure that there are no rough edges on the shaft. Put some lubricant on the shaft and the seal. I use oil or grease. Then slide the new seal into place, making sure that the open side of the seal is in toward the bearing. Once it is against the opening, I use a piece of plastic pipe that just fits over the shaft to push the seal into place. If you don't have that, just carefully tap the seal into place evenly until it is flush with the face of the transmission. Don't use anything sharp that will damage the seal. That should do it.

I was able to put 2 10.00x22 truck tires in the trunk AND close the lid!

Final update on this project of which I am dedicating to my father he and my mother brought me into this world in 1964 and he left us on 9-29-14. I have always like the hood stand on the 64's and since I did not have a serial number for this one I made my own 92914 this tractor will always be close to my heart, this one is to date the best one I have restored. Dad if you are looking I hope you like this one. Will be taking this one to Pioneer Power this year and every year, as my father had come down to see us for the years I have been going, he loved to people watch and spend some time with the Wheel Horse faithful. Thanks Guys Enjoy and thanks for looking

Even the good quality wire wheels will shed. I have now adopted using a full face shield. More protection and if you are wearing a dust mask too, there is no fogging up like you have with only safety goggles. For about $12 at home depot, a full face shield is well worth it. Plus if you are weed whacking and you have a pet, you are fully protected from the inevitable flying poop!

Here are a couple of photos of the tractor I brought home today. It might turn out to be a Frankenhorse, but until I check the numbers, it might already be a "Frankenhorse"!! It sure is quiet! It has a rear bracket on the axle so that is worth what I paid for it, and the shifter knob makes it really valuable!

My first car was actually a truck, a 1964 Ford F-100 handed down from my brother Dave when he joined the navy. It was his first ride as well. I got my balls busted all the time about it in school. all it took was one kid to say it looked like a milk truck and that was it, EVERYONE called it the milk truck for the next few yrs.. Sure wish it was still around, it was a lot of fun.. Yes, this is an actual pic. My second car was a heck of a lot more exciting.. Since we are on the topic of first cars.. This is my father in law Joe's 61 Ford Fairlane, it was his first car. He special ordered it when he was 19 yrs. old with every speed option you could get. The largest engine you could get from Ford at that time was a 400 hp 390 which it had along with a 4 speed and 4.56 gears. My father in law did everything he could do to max out the hp on the 390 (within the gray are of the rule book.) He could easily handle hangin and beatin the 409's and 413 Mopars but when Chevy came out with the 427's he started to get spanked. So.. He was able to purchase a 427 side oiler new from the dealer which he built from the ground up. Bye bye Chevy's as he put it.. So where is this car today? It is sittin up on blocks in his garage as it has been since 1968. Why? Father in law said the car became outdated and he wouldn't be embarrassed so he built race cars for his friends and when they were too chicken to run them at the track he did the drivin as well. The Fairlane never spent a night outside, in fact it was never even registered, it was a track car only. It has 2500 miles on it, mostly from flat towing it to the track. My mother in law wouldn't let him sell it because she said she never even got a ride in it so until that happens it ain't goin anywhere. My father in law died this past September. It is now a PRIORITY of my mother in law (and the rest of the family) to make it happen for her, hopefully this summer. If there is one guy in this world my father in law didn't like it was the guy that owned this Impala wagon. Don't kid yourself it was a full blown race car, 427 with dual quads and a 4 speed. The owner of it owned his own speed shop, the House of Speed out of Norwalk CT. My father in law and this guy wound up having to race each other all the time and the results were always the same, The Impala beats him off the line (no lack of traction out of that wagon) and the wagon would lose by a car length. Then the owner of the wagon would force my father in law to tear his engine down(for a fee) to have the officials check it out to make sure he was within the rules. The guy would always shoot off that a legal 390 could never beat him. Well, never caught cheating and that really pissed the Impala guy off. The one time the Impala beat my father in law Joe decided to return the favor and forced him to tear it down. Guess what, he cheated! They never raced again, once the guy heard there was now a 427 under the hood of Joe Walko's Ford he disappeared.

1929 NASH WITH WOODEN SPOKE WHEELS. 1944

72 Buick Riviera with a 454. Swiped this pic from the net but pretty much the same car and color. Gas was cheap back then and this car sucked it down quick. A big heavy luxury car but could easily light the tires up without brake standing it.

That would have been appropriate Mike. A friend had a 62 Falcon with the 170 and he split the exhaust manifold and installed true duals. Cool little car. Here's the car I bought new right after graduating in 73. 73 Pontiac Venture Sprint (actual scanned picture). Paid $2750 off the showroom floor Had a 350 and I milled the heads to raise the 7.3 to 1 compression ratio and installed an intake manifold and quadrajunk from a ram air GTO and duals. It's the car that caused my friends to give me the nickname 'Racinbob'. The truck (1985) and trailer was just scanned with it. It had the 300 inline six and pulled that trailer with ease (almost). The pic of the truck alone was sent to me by my daughter in Indiana a couple months ago. She thought it was my old truck and she was right. Apparently it still is running.

'73 Pontiac Lemans GT

1949 Dodge Coronet with a Gyro-Matic transmission. This is a representative photo exactly like mine minus the whitewalls. Bought by my brother in 1964 for $325.00 in perfect shape. He gave it to me in 1967 when he bought his '67 Firebird 400, and I sold it when I enlisted in the USCG in 1969 for $100.00. At one time I was going to paint "Bumble Bee" stripes on it but my brother didn't like that idea. His compromise was use of the Firebird! The rear seat was like a sofa - great for doubling at the drive-in.

1963 Chevy II Aqua Blue. Mine was a two door. Straight 6 with a 3-speed on the column.

Here is mine. Bought it when I was 15 and have owned it now for 27 years...

After this I hit it with the da and by hand with sandpaper A little degreaser & primer and that's all she gets until paint

the bigger trailer you buy the more you can haul. the more you can haul the more you can buy. the more you buy the bigger garage you need. the bigger garage the bigger the property you have to have. the bigger the property you have the more tractors you need. the more tractors you have the bigger the trailer you need. oh man it is a vicious circle we enter when buying a trailer. be careful

Had the rear hydraulic welded hope it holds up

So I immediately start looking for a tractor to put it on with a plan to fab my own frame mount when I ran into this in cl. It almost looks like my loader was on it at one point but the two were about 100 miles away from each other. 300$ for everything,realy I just bought it for the frame mounts

Update: With the starter/generator opened, we see what's inside. First thing we see is the bearing and the hardened grease. The next picture shows the bearing, the commutator, the brushes and the "A" and "F" terminals. This picture shows the carbon build-up inside. I cleaned the inside with compressed air, then gave it a wash out with kerosene. Let it dry overnight before continuing. Upon close inspection of the wire connected to the "A" terminal, I noticed that one large bundle of strands was loose, and appeared to have been shorted to the brush holder. I replaced the terminals, but was unable to connect the wires to them by conventional soldering. I don't know how it was done at the factory, but after a session of I decided to afix copper strapping to the ends of the terminals. I used copper pipe hangers, drilled a 1/4" hole to fit over the split stud, took a cold chisel and cut a cross notch, and tapped it with a hammer to secure the strap. I then tinned the inside of the copper, wrapped it around the wire and soldered. I made sure that there was a gap between the wire, the strap, and the brush holder. I cleaned the armature and commutator, installed a new sealed bearing in the pulley end, inserted the commutator into the S/G, and installed new brushes. I installed a new bearing in the other end and closed it up. That's all for now. I will install the regulator and put it back on the tractor later this week and do some tests. More to follow...

I'm sure anything can be done if you really want to. It might be a little difficult to do it with an attach-a-matic, as the belt and all goes in the front. If you had an older tractor with the drive belt BEHIND the front axle, something would be easily made to bolt to the frame, and then bolt the winch on. ETA: You will also have to watch out for the draw if you are going to go with an electric winch. I was just looking at them, and looking at the draw. I only have a 15 amp alternator on my Bronco 14, and some draw 25 or 30 amps. I did find a 2000 pound rated one that only draws 10 amps. Either way, you have to be carefull of too much draw.