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My wife found this tub wagon online and scored it for $75! got it from the original owner since new, even has the original carlisle tires! Think I'm gonna leave this one in patina.[emoji1] [img

Between my legs and the "Junk" I haul around.... Now that is hilarious!!!

Spring time in Texas and my wheel horses are out of the shop for a couple of photos, thought I would share.

Concrete floor, pressure-treated sole plate with sealant between it and the concrete. Sheathed with 1/2" plywood. All joints caulked. Finished with vinyl siding. The openings at the top and bottom of the vinyl corners are sealed with copper wool. There is no place where any rodent can get in. The door is a standard 8 x 7 steel garage door with a heavy-duty rubber seal on the bottom that extends 3" beyond the width of the door on both sides. When the door is closed, it is sealed at the top and both sides with tight fitting vinyl seals. When I was building it, I waited until dark of night and had my son outside with a 1,000,000 candlepower spot light, and me on the inside looking for any light leakage as he went around the door and perimeter of the building. The shed was built in 2006 and so far there has never been any evidence of anything that took up residence inside the shed. I did leave the door open all day back in 2008 and when I closed it at night, I trapped a chipmunk inside. He gnawed at the rubber door bottom seal, but never got out. So if a determined rodent can't get out, a less determined one can't get in. Another thing that I do when I close it up for the winter is to start my push mower and let it run with the door closed until it runs out of gas. All that carbon monoxide kills any stragglers that may have thought they had found a nice home for the winter. Therefore, rodent-proof.

Final update on this project of which I am dedicating to my father he and my mother brought me into this world in 1964 and he left us on 9-29-14. I have always like the hood stand on the 64's and since I did not have a serial number for this one I made my own 92914 this tractor will always be close to my heart, this one is to date the best one I have restored. Dad if you are looking I hope you like this one. Will be taking this one to Pioneer Power this year and every year, as my father had come down to see us for the years I have been going, he loved to people watch and spend some time with the Wheel Horse faithful. Thanks Guys Enjoy and thanks for looking

Hi everyone, I thought I would share a few photos I took while out in Bloomington, MN. I am in charge of equipment repairs for a golf course management company on the east coast, and went out to Toro's headquarters for a week of training. They really are a top notch company, and you feel like your walking through a museum as you go down their halls. They seem to have every product ever built on display! Here are a few to start. Bill

Well let's bring this back from the ashes. I have been working on it but i have been doing a lot of research on belts and trying to get my pulleys squared away. Finally got my drive system converted to a 5 rib serpentine belt which should be more than enough belt contact to keep from slipping and it flows nicely under the floorboard with two adjustable idlers. Found a guy in washington that built "survivalist" generator pulleys for converting large generators over to a belt driven diesel engine to turn them. Got a 4",8 rib drive pulley with sk bushing for that. Made a pulley "connector" so both the serp and V pulleys are through bolted and hold each other in place on the jackshaft. Got a v belt for driving the jackshaft so now I can get the clutch idler figured out. Finally starting to get somewhere.

Tom- Thanks- Before and after photo.

I put my Wheel Horse logo tractor umbrella on the Wheel Horse 314 this am. I like it very much. I bought it from Heritage Farm Power online. It is very well made -heavy duty like the big tractors and adjustable to height and pivots side ways, back and forth, etc. The main pole brace attaches to the rear hitch with a 3/4 threaded rod, lock nut and hex nut. Two braces can be attached to the rear snowplow/tiller hitch carriage bolts if the lock nut sides are on the top of the transmission. I like it a lot and look forward to using it this summer for gardening and mowing the lawn! It is very sturdy when the tractor is moving also!

Nothing got in my eyes but I had the strangest situation with a wire wheel strand. I was cleaning some screw threads using a wire wheel in my drill press. Didn't think anything of it. When I was finished working on the project, I went to take a shower and all of a sudden there is something that I can't see sticking in the top of my left shoulder. It actually was facing towards the outside. I got my wife to look and she took a 3/4" piece of wire from the wire wheel out of my shoulder. I can not figure out how it got there as I was wearing a jacket, flannel shirt, and T-shirt while cleaning the screws. I just can't stress enough to wear goggles or wrap-around safety glasses while using anything that rotates.

That explains the look from that woman at the bus stop. They have a 6th (sic) cents about things like that...and I know what you mean about the 2-3" in the short cab. Bad thing is...I hit bottom a long time ago. Rock & Rye all. Craig...I love my Silverado...2 whd though.

My biggest problem is that I am not equipped with the kind of shop that is required to do what I want to do. I use about 1/3 of one side of a 24 x 24 garage. In the winter, that is all the space I have. In spring, summer and fall, I have the great outdoors, but then everything has to go back in at night. My wife, and rightly so, does not allow me to leave "junk" (her words, not mine) visible in the driveway.

The brake shaft seal is easily replaced without a lot of disassembly. Jack up the rear, take off the left rear wheel, remove the brake band, and remove the brake drum. The seal is rather small, but can be removed with simple tools. First clean the area to be able to see the seal. I take a small 1/8" screwdriver with the blade bent at a 90 degree angle, or a dental pick/hook and insert it between the shaft and the seal. You will be depressing the rubber part of the seal. You don't want to go in too far or you will hit the bearing. You want to hook your tool on the metal or plastic outer portion of the seal. Pull toward you. You may have to move around the shaft until you have pulled the seal completely loose, then slide it off the shaft. Clean the area where the seal was removed. Make sure that there are no rough edges on the shaft. Put some lubricant on the shaft and the seal. I use oil or grease. Then slide the new seal into place, making sure that the open side of the seal is in toward the bearing. Once it is against the opening, I use a piece of plastic pipe that just fits over the shaft to push the seal into place. If you don't have that, just carefully tap the seal into place evenly until it is flush with the face of the transmission. Don't use anything sharp that will damage the seal. That should do it.

Back at it again this spring. 5 gardens done this Sunday.

One of my good friends was taken from this Earth this week . Is it possible to be so close to someone to shed a tear even though you've never shaken his hand ? Looked into his eyes ? YEP . My good friend Jay passed away Wednesday at the ripe old age of 39 . My prayers go up to his wife & two young children . I've never talked to a kinder , gentler , more caring person . I will miss you deeply , Jay . So long my brother , we will meet one day .

Wish I had them all back! When I was 13 I took dad's tractor and drug home a 1931 Chrysler sedan for $20. The block was cracked and no red-blooded American teenage boy wanted a flat-head six anyway. Dad was COOL, he let me have a corner of the barn to do my thing. Picked up a '53 Chrysler with the old (331? cu/in) Hemi engine and good transmission for $50. My buddies and I pulled that Hemi and began to fabricate mounts for it; only tools we had were a 1/4"drill and hand tools. When we got it in place I took a pipe cutter and cut the two drive shafts and took them to a welder to have them put together, this was our first adult intervention! Ernie, the welder explained that this would never work. He came down to the barn and laughed himself silly looking at our angle iron motor and transmission mounts! The next day he asked my parents if I could come work for him on Saturdays and learn how to weld, they said yes and within a couple weeks I had stinger in hand. I never finished that car but it paved the way for lots of other successful auto projects. When I went in the Navy at age 17 there were four cars in and around that barn; the '31, a '46 Chevy 1/2 ton, a '47 Dodge Coupe and a '55 Ford Convertible. None of them were derivable and Dad sold them for $50 each, I don't blame him one bit. Since then I have built a few Street Rods and still drive a yellow '48 Ford F1 that I built thirty years ago, it has well over 100,000 miles on it and a few dents and dings, but I'm proud of it.

My best friends car we drove the power tour, he asked me to sell for him as he was passing away from Cancer, wish I could have kept it.

Even the good quality wire wheels will shed. I have now adopted using a full face shield. More protection and if you are wearing a dust mask too, there is no fogging up like you have with only safety goggles. For about $12 at home depot, a full face shield is well worth it. Plus if you are weed whacking and you have a pet, you are fully protected from the inevitable flying poop!

I have amassed a collection of five 520H Wheel Horses along with a 312A, 416-8 and a couple of vertical shaft riding mowers. Three of the 520's are the later swept axle models with the other two being early straight axles. I purchased the first one about three years ago and paid too much for it, but just had to have one, and they aren't easy to find in Australia - although I have seen quite a few for sale since. My first 520 was in generally good condition, although it had a significant transmission oil leak and the seat was wobbly due in part to a broken tab on the upstand. A 60" deck in good condition came on the tractor. Inspired by some of the restorations on Red Square and my earlier rebuild of my 416-8 I decided to try and refurbish it. I started by completely dismantling the machine and had lot of the parts powder coated. I had a short thread in "Transmissions and transaxles" a couple of years ago when I split the transmission and checked the internals as well as replaced the seals. The bearings, gears and differential were all still perfect. The oil leak was found to have been caused by the oil temp sensor probe which had split. After I got the transmission back together I refitted it to the frame and the project was put aside. I just looked back, and was surprised to see it was two years ago. I did bits and pieces but not a lot of progress was made in between. However, over the past couple of weekends I have been able to make some headway. Frame assembly commenced. Transmission nearly ready to refit. ...more to come.

My new 2015 work truck arrived here today... sitting in my driveway with a total of seven miles on the clock. Wanted the full size bed, as I'm tired of only being able to rustle home one at a time. The only drag being...I'm gonna need a new rear window decal, really hated to see that go.

About a year ago scanning my local craigslist, I found a newer Toro / Wheel horse 36" roto tiller for $50. Mounted up to my 74, C-160 after I had to trim off a bit of the rear axle mount locking bracket (it's length was bumping into idler pulley). Now I needed the mid mount belt setup, I have a well equipped shop at home so all I needed was some measurements. Built my drive setup close to member "Lost Pup" and his post here The mostly finished bracket, waiting for 141 x 1/2" belt to arrive, bought off greed-bay. Will tack the set-screw shaft locks in place after belt fitted. Pic from underside, spring is probably from an old bed mattress. It was just in my junk pile and looks close to being correct size. Side pic of my over powered C-160 Tiller mounting shot, the electric lift is getting weak, has to work pretty hard to lift roto tiller. Plans are to remove and sell it off then replace with my own linear actuator setup. Dan

How good of a friend? to Condition and location really make a difference in prices.

It's easy to test. If your solenoid uses its case for ground, connect a jumper from the case to the (-) post of the battery. Then connect a jumper to the (+) post of the battery and just touch it to the small lug of the solenoid. It should click or snap, closing the connection between the two large lugs. Now that test only determines if the magnetic coil is good, but doesn't determine if the lugs are actually connecting. For that you will need a meter or a test light to see if there is continuity when they close. But don't waste a lot of time or effort trying to repair it. A new one is only about $10.00 at Tractor Supply. Dielectric grease has it's place, but I have never used it on my tractors.

From this morning until now... I think they doubled in size today.

If you have a Napa they are a good source for aftermarket blades, belts and bearings. Their green belts are made by Gates specifically for lawn and garden equipment. You need illustrated parts manuals for the equipment you have so you know exactly what the part numbers are. Model numbers are the best way if you have them. Let us know and will try to link you to them. 2-blade deck or 3-blade? Side or rear discharge. Decks are sized by their width of cut. 36", 37", 42" or 48" Garry

I do not use a vertical stack on any of mine, but if I did and needed to support it, I would remove a couple of head bolts and replace them with studs, like those used to support the generator. Then I would make a heavy-duty bracket with clamp to support the pipe. Although thinking about it, the hood would interfere. In that case scratch my idea. I guess that's why Wheel Horse never made a vertical pipe muffler.

Well, I went to look at another neglected 416-H today. This poor horse has been out in the weather most of it's life. The wiring is a mess, and I don't know if it even runs. But I'm rescuing it and bringing it to my stable. If it's beyond hope, I may be parting it. More to come...

I knew someone would catch that. Took longer than I thought it would!

Well, we got off on a shed/rodent tangent there, so now it is back to the 416-H. Just came home with it. Here's the verdict. It's a 1997, 73423 7900503 Engine runs and I didn't see any smoke. The wiring has been butchered. Obviously needs a seat. Paint is bad. Hood is starting to rust. All the metal is straight. Belt guard is missing. Tunnel cover is missing. So I don't know what I am going to do. My heart says restore it, but my head says save the engine and part out the rest.

I like the sound of that shed Bob! I've been considering getting a bigger one, but since it sits hanging over a steep slope, concrete would be prohibitively expensive. One shed-maker I looked at uses tongue and groove treated 2x8's for flooring. That seems similarly rodent proof assuming I take care of all the other joints.

Here's how they look with two coats of color and two coats of clear.

Well the tractor is just about done. Stopped at TSC today to pick up a few small speed nuts I needed for the rear tail lights but they are too short ... Everything is done except the tail lights. I am not sure if I am going to wet sand and buff in a few days or if I am just going to buff. I also need to repaint the wheels as they have some rust on the fronts. Terry's decals are top notch as always. Here she is... Used her to pull the roller around the yard today (and my neighbor's yard too ...

That brings back some great memories Mike. We now use a typical low buck coffee maker but I remember using a percolator for years. The very best coffee was made over a campfire on a damp chilly morning and drank from a tin cup (carefully).

That's pretty cool Lane. It really hit me when I noticed that welded tab to use it with a slot hitch. I had one of those that was sold in the auction in North Liberty. I had welded a tab on mine as well.

I bought an older 40 inch Mid-Mount Grader Blade several months ago and also bought a lift link from one of the Red Square members that was making the early model lift link (#5678). I finally got around to installing it on the 314 Wheel Horse after I had removed my snowplow. The Mid-Mount Grader Blade attached fine on the front attach-a-matic but I was not really sure how the lift link was to be installed and which hole in the rock shaft on the 314 needed to be used to give the lift link the ability to have downward pressure with the lift handle. I finally realized it need to attach to the third hole in the upper rock shaft lift (the same hole the trunion for the chain link the holds up the T bar used to lift the mower decks). Easy to access thru the front panel on the 314 justy remove the two Phillips head machine screws and remove the trunion pin and install lift link for the Mid-Mount Grader Blade. My grader blade also has a nice feature that a previous owner installed - a welded steel plate/tab with hole for a hitch pin to place it in the rear slot hitch of a Wheel Horse . Here are some pics of this on the tractor.

Some amazing looking cars you ole geezers had back then . sadly we didn't have any American cars here in UK , probably caus you had the steering wheel on the wrong side .

Funny story about hauling in a P/U bed. Old guy I worked with had a Gravely with a dog- eater blower mounted on it. His spare came loose and hit the starter button. He stops at a light and hears an awful noise. That Gravely was chewing its way through the bed on it's way to the cab!

1929 NASH WITH WOODEN SPOKE WHEELS. 1944

here's my mirror this morning and if I look back a little 1970 lawn ranger - which was on an auction site for £0.99 a quick email and offer of not much more I went to collect. No money actually exchanged hands in the end

I'd love to have that tractor the weekend of July 10th. That's when the NYS 2 Clyinder Expo and John Deere consignment auction is held at our local Steam Pageant grounds. I could ride it around and show it off as the best GT JD ever made and reap the profits and sell it at the auction!

If you really don't want even the little mini HVAC Oxy/Act setup another option is a hand trigger Turbo Torch with the Mapp/Propane mix

Mapp gas and oxygen. Small, cheap, and will do what you want. Here's a link. http://www.zoro.com/i/G3268587/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CjwKEAjw6Z2pBRCmvaXq6d7FjUoSJAAc5LrirCsjA743sD3kdodwWI9-upXMs5ejfZbQGy1Z5IMg0RoCYDzw_wcB

Today I lifted the front up and made sure all of the bolts underneath are tight. I also fitted a couple of extra earth wires as with everything powdercoated earthing can be a problem. Where the console bolts to the frame the frame is threaded, I have also put a locknut on the back side of all 10 of these bolts, which is probably unnecessary, but I can be sure it is all secure. Fitted the engine mounting plate and lowered it back down. Now I was ready to fit the engine. I decided on a repower for this build and purchased a 23hp Briggs Vanguard kit from the SEW. It only took about 5 days to get to me and I am very happy with it. The tip of the exhaust is slightly damaged, but I can straighten that out. The engine bolted straight in onto the original mounting plate and the wiring harness just clipped together, it couldn't have been any easier. That is where I got up to today. The front wheels are temporary off a Bolens, I will get a pair of rims powdercoated to match the rears which have 24 x 12 x 12 tyres. I also have to get the transmission input pulley refinished. Next thing is to connect throttle and choke cables, make up battery leads and then I should be able to fire it up. I have a Caswell Black Oxide cold plating kit which I haven't tried yet. I am going to coat the bushes for the transmission drive linkage to see how well it works.

This is how it has been sitting for the past couple of years, on a stand and covered up. More recently I have repaired and refitted the wiring. I have fitted marine sealed fuse holders for the 30 and 25a circuits and just need to get one more for the 15a lighting circuit. I also fitted an aftermarket tacho as the original wasn't working and a transmission temperature gauge in lieu of the vacuum gauge which had broken mounting pins. I also fitted a pair of four stud trailer hubs to the front axle, they fitted straight onto the stock stubs without any modifications at all. Next I bolted on some wheels and took the rolling chassis off the stand.

Did a few more things... Painted and installed a drawbar hitch. Never came with one. Installed large eye bolts on each side of the rear bracket to tie ropes to and such. Painted the suitcase weights and the weight bracket. I have the D250 sitting next to it in the garage. Gives you and idea how big the D250 really is.

hey guys. Yes the kids are Twins. The dog is a boxer...@95lbs. His name is Guinness. Ok so when it comes to the paint codes. We dont have any secret codes. I'm not sure but most of the OEMs have gone to powder coating over the past 10-15 years due largely to VOC regulations and transfer efficiency/cost reasons. Liquid coatings that folks in the field would use are hard to get from the standpoint of VOC regulations (depending on the state). Simple enamel products that would work well out of a gravity fed HVLP spray gun are simply too high VOC and its frowned on to sell without a spray booth. The best product that you could probably use from any SW store now is a product called "Sher Kem" .. Its basically a simple 1k product with a high gloss finish and fast drying properties. You can catalyze it to get better performance properties out of it you want. Any store should be able to get it...they may not have it on the shelf the day you walk in but if you give them a few days they can get it. I would think that the majority of the WH colors being a shade of red, they could take the International Red and "tweak" it ... being a factory red, you'll get better coverage even after its reduced. The Ultradeep base is the other way they may need to go (basically clear and they would dump red colorant into it). I'd say cut it 20% with Xylene and spray using a 1.4 needle setup. Should be pretty smooth. http://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&lang=E&doctype=PDS&prodno=F75CC2 They'll need something to match...something that isnt faded larger than a quarter. Once they get the match the code can be shared on here and anyone can use the code from that point on. Initial matches are the hardest...then its just a matter of tossing the formula into the computer and having it spit out the colorants. HDPE is a ROUGH one.... Typically I would recommend a wipe down with Isopro Alcohol to remove any debris/dirt/grease etc. After that i would say use an adhesion promoter. UPO7229 is my standard "go to" for really tough plastics. The really hard part with plastics is that they can change from lot to lot of the plastics being used and the surface tension is the key to getting adhesion. Here's a link to the UPO 7229.... http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SHW0/UPO7229QT/N1967.oap?ck=Search_N1967_-1_-1&pt=N1967&ppt=C0171

This subject comes up quite often. Everything folks have said here is fine. However, the real trick is to get brand new, hardened, cup point set screws and new woodruff keys. The key word is hardened. Go to a good hardware store. If you don't pay at least $1 per set screw, you are likely not getting the hardened ones. Also, invest in a 3/8, eight point socket so you can really put the torque to those square head set screws. New jam nuts would not hurt either. Your total investment is less the $3 per hub, not including the cost of the eight point socket

I've only lived in Kentucky for ten years, so I don't know anything about the dealer where my tractor came from. The address is an old empty gas station.

My dealer is: Lawson's Outdoor Power Equipment 113 W Main Street New Market, MD, 21774 He still has old and restored Wheel Horses on the showroom floor. Here is a picture of his sign on the front of the building