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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/01/2015 in Posts
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4 pointsBefore you tear it all apart, pop off the SHIFT PLATE and have a look at the shift lever. If it flops around freely, the end of it MAY be broken off, or it MAY have come loose from its pivoit point, being the DOG POINT SCREW. Can you lift the lever up out of the trans? If so, then it MAY not be the shift forks but something simpler, like a broken DOG POINT. Here are a few pics to help:
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3 pointsI have gotten good kits from "cfamily10" and "bakt4kids" on eBay.There is another seller "debra0318" , but she is the same company as "cfamily10". All three have good reputations. The parts are all after-market, but they are much less expensive than genuine Kohler, and in my opinion, every bit as good.
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3 pointsHere's an update today, didn't get to spend a lot of time on it today, but got the engine back on now, hopefully for the last time and front tires mounted and installed on the tractor, will have to wait until next weekend to get the rears on as I didn't have any tubes. Still need to get the speed selector arm fixed and painted, a friend has had it for a while now, waiting for him to weld in a new piece for me, once I have that painted and back tires mounted its pretty much ready to go together the rest of the way.
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3 pointsWatch this YOUTUBE for the easiest understanding of the differential.
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2 pointsWell, a new Horse arrived in the stable today. 1961 551, and in really straight condition. I believe it to be an early restoration. I need to collect some parts, namely the fuse-box cover, belt guard, and muffler shield. It came with a straight mowing deck, and what I was told is an original seat cover. First, some pics: Mowing deck's tight, but I hope it will loosen up with fresh grease in the spring time. Now, first thing is first... to get the electrical system buttoned up: The tractor came with these parts: I know where the points and condenser go... but not the ignition brake? And can someone tell me what type of fuses I need? Next, why do the front rims only have one hole in them? I'd like to mount front wheel weights if/when I can find them... I assume I'll have to drill the other two holes. One the way here, is seems the trans froze up. I'm guessing water in it. Once it gets above freezing I'm going to drain the fluid. If the trans doesn't look good, I may replace it with an 8-speed. And I spent a little time cleaning up the hood once the ice melted off of it from the trip here... (Not too sure why this one uploaded upside-down, but okay...) Well, goodbye GT-14 and welcome 551! Now to find a brother for it... Thanks!
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2 pointsSame as Maynard - I have used 3 of their kits and found them to be surprisingly good, and the price sure cant be beat! Along the same lines, I just got my 4th after market carburetor and boy its nice to get a complete carb for around $50...
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2 pointsI guess this installment should be called great guy in the great room...I super friend came down today to wrangle another one out from under me....but while he was here I used his labor to switch around a set of BF Goodrich Silvertown ags for a set of BF Goodrich All Purpose Garden Tractor tires.... We had a great afternoon my friend and I...I wonder if anyone knows him?
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2 pointsDang...in 1964, I was walking 2 miles (up hill both ways) to High School...and that was to the YMCA , about 2 blocks from the school so I could practice on the swim team 1 hour before school started. My hair was froze solid by the time I got to class. If I had to do all that today, I would have quit.
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1 pointSwapped out the tired and broken tecumseh for the harbor freight 6.5hp predator. I know it seems kinda wrong to put a Chinese motor on an American tractor but it's a great option to get the tractor back to work. The swap was pretty easy, here are some pictures. Feel free to ask any specific questions if you are thinking about doing this.
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1 pointHello everybody, new guy here, thanks for having me. Not new to Wheel Horse, have had a YT12A, 416H, and 520H in the past. Now, I have a chance to buy either one of 2- 314-8's, or, a 312-8. The 312-8 is a very late Toro. Has been sitting for 2 years, no deck. Needs carb fuel/system carb cleaning, ignition switch, battery. Looks great, only 109 hrs showing. One 314-8 has over 1000 hrs., no deck, will run, needs at least battery. Showing some wear. The other 314-8, no deck, threw a rod. Over 1000 hrs.. Does not appear to have come through the block. Will need at least an engine rebuild, or engine. Battery, fuel system cleaning. None have a deck. All need battery and fuel system clean. The 312-8 is nice, low hours. Paint is nice. Is the 312-8 a 4 pinion differential? Is it weak? Will the 312 spin a 48" deck? Tiller? Should I buy one of the 314-8's with higher hours that show wear? Is the 314-8 an 8 pinion diff.? Is the 2 hp that important, or is there more to a 314. I would restore the 314's if I got one, rough looking. But not too bad. What do you think these are worth? Again, thanks!
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1 pointHow far does your short chute throw it? I wasn't pleased with the short chute directing the snow so I took an 18"x24" piece of aluminum coil stock and attached it to the chute with self tap screws. It's not great, and I'm pondering how to fab up a tall chute for it over the summer, but it's a lot better than the short chute and it only took 10 minutes. It will throw powder 30 or 40ft anyway.
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1 pointUnfortunately the wire colors are not included but there are not many wires Garry
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1 pointI have to ask... is the doughnut loose on the shaft? That pin does not go all the way through to the other side...so as to leave a place for the Dog Point set screw to enter and hold the doughnut in place. Plus, your horse is new enough, I wonder if that pin is sheared. Take a good look at it...it is more likely that the dog point is broke off. Toro is the best place to get the boots...they are only about $6.00. I did find a number for that pin in a shifter...but it is not for your trans...but it may be the same. This is for a 3 piece transmission, but I think the shift doughnuts are the same through out the Wheel Horse stick shift transmissions. That pin # is Wheel Horse # 933168..it says Roll Pin 5/32 x 13/16. Hope that helps.
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1 pointI use 5/16 x 1/2" and they work fine. In the 30 or so trannys I have owned, I have never seen one with washers.
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1 pointThe pin that sheared was solid, I would hate to replace with a roll pin. I have had bad luck in the past replacing solid pins with rolled pins. Anyone have an exploded view of this thing with part numbers? The local Toro guys could order by PN (I would hope!) Thanks, you guys have already saved me big $$$$ and this site encourages me to bring the old girl back up to snuff I always liked that machine.
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1 pointLooks good Denny, what you got there was the bread and butter for Wheel Horse. The C 's were no nonsense straight out workers. In my opinion they were some of best series made. You will enjoy the dependability of the C.
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1 pointNuts Up and Groove Down! Sounds like a Kool & The Gang or Earth Wind & Fire tune!
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1 pointGot the new tires on yesterday, a new idler pulley and drive belt and finally took it for a ride. I also put new bearings in the mule drive pulleys, when it warms up I'll replace the idlers, spindle bearings and the belt on the deck and that should make this a pretty dependable worker.
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1 pointhey guys. Yes the kids are Twins. The dog is a boxer...@95lbs. His name is Guinness. Ok so when it comes to the paint codes. We dont have any secret codes. I'm not sure but most of the OEMs have gone to powder coating over the past 10-15 years due largely to VOC regulations and transfer efficiency/cost reasons. Liquid coatings that folks in the field would use are hard to get from the standpoint of VOC regulations (depending on the state). Simple enamel products that would work well out of a gravity fed HVLP spray gun are simply too high VOC and its frowned on to sell without a spray booth. The best product that you could probably use from any SW store now is a product called "Sher Kem" .. Its basically a simple 1k product with a high gloss finish and fast drying properties. You can catalyze it to get better performance properties out of it you want. Any store should be able to get it...they may not have it on the shelf the day you walk in but if you give them a few days they can get it. I would think that the majority of the WH colors being a shade of red, they could take the International Red and "tweak" it ... being a factory red, you'll get better coverage even after its reduced. The Ultradeep base is the other way they may need to go (basically clear and they would dump red colorant into it). I'd say cut it 20% with Xylene and spray using a 1.4 needle setup. Should be pretty smooth. http://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&lang=E&doctype=PDS&prodno=F75CC2 They'll need something to match...something that isnt faded larger than a quarter. Once they get the match the code can be shared on here and anyone can use the code from that point on. Initial matches are the hardest...then its just a matter of tossing the formula into the computer and having it spit out the colorants. HDPE is a ROUGH one.... Typically I would recommend a wipe down with Isopro Alcohol to remove any debris/dirt/grease etc. After that i would say use an adhesion promoter. UPO7229 is my standard "go to" for really tough plastics. The really hard part with plastics is that they can change from lot to lot of the plastics being used and the surface tension is the key to getting adhesion. Here's a link to the UPO 7229.... http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SHW0/UPO7229QT/N1967.oap?ck=Search_N1967_-1_-1&pt=N1967&ppt=C0171
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1 pointOK...when you push or pull the tractor...or anything else- for that mater...the differential (along with the axles) just all roll in the same direction. If you are going in a straight line, the pinions in the differential aren't doing anything...they are just going with the flow. If you are not going in a straight line, that is when the pinions wake up and either take in the slack or give up some slack, depending on which direction you are going. It is really hard to picture what is going on in the differential, but that is what it amounts to.
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1 pointDid I leave out a zero?? That was the temperature here today...that key is frozen on my key-board. Sorry mate. 0000000000
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1 pointGOTCHA It's that time again .... out with SAINT VALENTINE In with SAINT PATRICK
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1 pointGrandsons love the snow, I hate them! One of their favorites the '85 416-8 does the work! I want to install the mower decks, shorts, sandals, Rolling Rock ponies. http://youtu.be/Ug8cBIbxDaY
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1 pointWow what a day! Super busy at work and dinner out. Thanks to all that have wished me a Happy Birthday here on the Greatest Forum in the world Red Square!! From Koen who was the first to ring in at 3:52 A.M. (thanks for staying up all night Koen! ) Probably was having lunch when he typed it. Don, no seizures here unless I get to close to a Tecky recoil rope! . To cousin Brian, who must have spent all day digging up those smilies out of his vast stock pile of Horses.To my older Dino brother who took a selfie and slapped it on a pizza. Now I know what I'm not having for lunch tomorrow! THANKS I see Uncle Jim has dusted the snow off and managed to get back in the house. Jim we need some more of those action shots! John, I didn't see a Gravely with a sno-cannon show up at my door yet. come to think of it Ken the 420 didn't get here either! My younger brother Craig. Awful nice sentiment but I think I may have a few nightmares now. And to everybody on RS thanks for all the wishes and laughs and we will see a bunch of you in a few months in PA. If anyone wants to give me a snow cab, I can pick it up there! What a way to celebrate your 5800th INTELLIGENT POST! BOOM----SHAKA----LAKA!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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1 pointNorthern tool has some 20 or more choices ranging from $40 up, of which probably 8-10 would work on a horse, might have to drill a hole or 2 but.... http://www.northerntool.com/
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1 pointI use a can of Berryman Chem Dip. Its specifically made for carburetors and even comes with a tray to put it all in and dunk it. It doesnt hurt anything and Ive never had a carb it couldnt clean to brand new. Why would you use something that wasn't meant to clean correctly for what you have? Thats like saying its good to use 60 grit sandpaper to clean bugs off your cars paint or windshield....sure it works but its not the proper method
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1 pointMessage me with your email address and I'll send you some links to download of my set up. I've got a D180, but it's the same.
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1 pointHey Ken. Man, that was 35-45 years ago, lol... I was a fan of all those old guys. Heck, more a fan at this point of what they did with what they had - or compared to cars & technology today, what they didn't have. Of course The King was a favorite of nearly everyone I knew, but Cale and the Allisons all those guys it was just different back then. I guess my favorite wasn't any particular driver, but rather just the time I got to hang out with my Dad and his buds and take in everything that was happening there at the track. I lost touch with all that when we moved up here, more especially when I left for the Army in '82. Served 6 years, took me a couple few years after that to come out of my fog. I remember being impressed by Alan Kulwicki the couple years leading up to his death, and watching closely Gordon the year he won rookie of the year. Love him or hate him, that kid could flat-out drive back then. On the same page as Papaglide, so much has changed. Like anything else truly good, it's been exploited and commercialized to squeeze as much profit out as possible that they just wreck it. Heck, ask anyone of today's young die-hard fans if they ever ran 6-bangers in the busch cars and they'll look at you like you've got three heads... I guess these past couple years I've rooted for Mark Martin, just because. I watched part of the xfinity race on Saturday over at Helio's (was supposed to be looking over my Wifes' RJ, lol) and you know, I didn't recognize nearly most all the names in that race. I might as well have been watching curling, I was so out of touch...
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1 pointMom's other little girl .(almost) 15 year old Cassie . Who has the appetite of an Elephant .
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1 pointThe Ms. doesn't see one different than the other. The Horses live in the barn with all of us. Bank barn, the Horses come 'n go in the two back barn doors where the furry horses used to bed down.
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1 pointHere is Mr. Sig... only 10 months old but acts like a cranky old man that lives in the basement... have to warn visiters he'll say hello when he's ready, LOL!
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1 pointBrian, wire brush those rims really good. Put the paint on extra thick over the holes. Dont worry, when you put the tires on you wont see the hole. Or,,,,,choice 2, dont touch them, everyone here loves patina, those rims are loaded with patina. Lol Glenn
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1 pointsteering wheel on with brass trim piece steering column done other than painting now on to bigger and bent things Brian
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1 pointIf this were my project, I'd still be standing there doing this. Great work Brian.
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1 pointIf the engine is missing, the engine is not firing on every revolution - you can hear it. The 16 hp single cylinder engines can vibrate a lot, especially at lower RPM's - normal. If it's the vibration that you are feeling/hearing, you're ok. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but with the Magnum engines, the ignition is solid state, so no points to time the engine - so the electronic ignition should take care of any timing issues that might otherwise cause a mis or backfire. You carb might not be adjustable, at least on the high speed jet if it is a Walboro. My 314-8 with 14hp Magnum will backfire when I turn it off at high throttle and hot from working it and turning off at high RPM's. Soooo - my guess is that you have noticeable vibration, not a miss, you are turning off the engine without idling down/letting the engine cool. "Not a gear head". You will be soon - and that's a very fun/good thing.... 416-8 with Kohler Magnum is IMHO one of the best tractors Wheelhorse ever made. Good luck, Bill
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1 pointProof positive, Lars does bleed Wheelhorse.
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1 point:dunno: for all the great comments, and a Up date on the control valves. I decided to use 12 volt electric valves so I didn't have to make complicated remote controls to operate the valves, and so it wouldn't look bad. Don't want a big ugly valve hanging out the side of the tractor They will be mounted in front of the engine, and the ports will go through the bottom of the hood. The valves will be mounted to the hood. This is the best look I could come up with without a lot of extra work in the pluming of the control valves. You know KISS. Any how pics of the valves. Still waiting for the rest of the fittings to get here :help: