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If you talk to the Old F____ they will always tell to use what the manufacture specified, that's why you have these tractors that are properly maintained lasting 50 + yrs

I'm starting to think I have an obsession with seeing blacktop... with more measurable snow predicted this Thursday... how else can you explain this kooky behavior?

From what I can tell from the old rifle...was most likely dated about 1840's....probably belonged the 2nd generation parent or his son. There is an engraving on the barrel with my last name...faint but legible....the GIT are the initials of my Great Uncle George Irvin Troutman....a 5th generation American...who was mustard gassed in WW1 and was awarded the Purple Heart. My dad just handed the rifle to me last year.... Dad is 92 this year.....

Thanks James. Yes the brake disc's didn't help my cutting tool's out at all.. But as it's taken me 2 odd years to get through a box of 10 cutting tips I can't blame it all on the discs.. Thanks Neil.. No idea on the seat yet, I guess it's what ever turns up at the right price and right time. Thanks dude.. I do try and make as much as I can.. Why buy it when when I can make it Also with a project like this, ready made parts will just not fit so I have no option other than to make bit's.. More bodywork.. With both sides of the fender pan widened but not fully welded.. It was time to sort out the drop in the middle.. A dig through the pile of scrap metal on site produced a couple of metal shelves which were just the right thickness... A bit of chopping and tack welding later and although not perfect the arches bit were looking good.. They do need to be angled down towards the front a bit more. Inner arch panels fully welded.. Looking from the inside, I think that could be classed as good welding penetration And here's how it looked by the end of yesterday. The arch extensions each side have been fully welded and all welds smoothed down. The bit's of steel across the top are only there to hold the arches square until I can get some strength added..

NOTE: The wiring diagrams in both the manual and in the electrical demystification guide are INCORRECT. All diagrams shown here have been corrected to the best of my knowledge. According to the owner’s manual, the 1996 416-H is supposed to have the following Safety Interlock System. It is designed to prevent the engine from starting unless: You are sitting in the seat The brake pedal is depressed The PTO is OFF The speed control lever is in neutral However, that scenario is not possible as the 416-H is wired. You DO NOT have to be in the seat Depressing the brake pedal is NOT necessary The PTO does have to be off The speed control lever is in neutral Two out of four is not a good safety record, and the two that are correct are in the START circuit, not the SPARK circuit. Here is why the Safety Interlock System is faulty. Seated on the tractor, the key is turned to the RUN position, and the seat switch being closed by the operator’s weight, activate the SEAT RELAY, closing the normally open contacts within that relay. This completes a path for 12 volts to flow from the RUN position on the ignition switch to the (+) side of the coil. So now we have SPARK. However, if you lift up off the seat switch, which should prevent SPARK and therefore not allow the engine to start, the path of the 12 volts changes as the seat relay de-energizes and the contact returns to the normally closed side, creating a path as shown in the next picture. So this is the first problem. This allows the operator to start the tractor while not in the seat, and worst yet, will cause the tractor to keep running if the operator should fall from the seat while moving, hense the term "deadman switch". However, another wrinkle is that if the PTO is engaged, as in mowing, the seat switch functions properly and will kill the engine if the operator lifts off the seat. THE CAUSE: There are two PTO switches. The first one (shown in the diagram above) is supposed to function to create a "kill" scenario when it is engaged, which it does, but it also creates an incorrect path when not engaged. The second PTO switch prevents the START circuit, keeping the starter from turning if engaged. That one works correctly. MY DILEMA:: I want the best of both worlds. I want the seat switch to function properly so that if someone is operating the tractor and falls from the seat, it will stop. Also, I want to be able to start the tractor, get off the seat and let it run (great for those cold times when the hydro needs to warm up). I also want a way to start the tractor while not in the seat, for service, etc. MY SOLUTION: Here is how I modified my 416-H to correct all the above. I added a second PARKING BRAKE SWITCH. Look at the diagram below. When the parking brake is set, the second switch is closed completing a circuit through the PTO switch allowing me to start the tractor while not in the seat. In this condition, the brake is locked, and the motion control is in neutral. When the parking brake is released, the switch opens. This open the circuit that was running through the PTO switch, and now causes the engine to stop if I lift off the seat. NOTE: The owners manual says that with the parking brake set, the engine should not crank. However, setting the parking brake has nothing to do with preventing the engine from cranking. The parking brake switch's only function is to turn the light on or off on the dash. Okay, did I over-think this, or is it a viable fix?

been so busy here lately haven't had the time to get the old girl back to working still have a few things to workout

-40 expected in northern NY Sunday. We're staying in NJ where it'll be a balmy ZERO TO -5!

Thing looks awesome Ed... you do some really nice work.

my passions are my grand children my 2 ( very lucky to have ) son and daughter.. and my new found (4 years) hobby WHEEL HORSE TRACTOR i still have the first one,,,,a 401 what i got with the tractors was unexpected,,,,,,A WHOLE NEW FAMILY... and non of this i would want to loose anytime soon.... THANKS GUYS,,,,,,

Thanks to our snow-less December and January here in CT, I was able to get 95% of my new shed completed. Well, it's not entirely fair to say "I" in any of the heavy lifting. I didn't do much of anything other than watch. I used a contractor that I’ve known for years that built my garage and house addition back in 2007. Initially this started out as a quest to replace the older 10'x12' with something a bit larger - and maybe with an overhead loft area. Then the idea of an overhead garage door came into the mix - giving me an ability to raise the loft floor higher so I can park my enclosed trailer in there for the winter...etc...etc. You know how these things go. Needless to say, the "shed" concept turned into a 14'x24' footprint with a full second floor and 6'6" ceiling height upstairs. Way more than the original scope of this project. Fortunately, the wife rolled with it as it unraveled. The town inspector on the other hand....ha..... He said this was the biggest, most over-built "shed" he's ever inspected. Thankfully for tax purposes it's permitted on the books as a "shed or accessory outbuilding". Due to the temperature, I have to wait until spring to paint the front doors and the shutters and gutters are due to be installed sometime next week.

We got last year, what you guys are getting this year. So far, it has been a rather average winter here. Cleared a couple inches 3 times, and an 18 incher once. I am liking the 2 to 3 inchers better.

From experience I would say no stove......

Good idea Karl... but I thought you meant TBT by throwing back .....

John, You need to come on down to North Carolina and leave all that snow behind ! Don't forget to bring your Dad, and the Wheel Horse stuff LOL

One daughter's front yard in Medford, Mass. on Sunday ! Other daughters trip to beach with granddaughter in Corpus Christi, Texas last week - 78 degrees!

Added this to the fleet today: I haven't researched the model year yet, but this is a late 1980's/early 1990's Ford LGT-14D diesel tractor. It looks as nice in person as it does in the pictures. I don't know much about these Jacobsen-sourced machines, but I've long liked them. The fact that it's a smoker seals the deal. I'm still into Wheel Horses, but I also have a thing for diesels. This blue one adds another color of the spectrum to my growing diesel fleet that includes a green Deere 332, an orange Simplicity 7790, a Yellow Cub 1512, and a RED WHeel Horse 523Dxi. Who knows where the nonsense will stop. The good news for you fellow horse nuts (!) who thought I completely fell off the wagon is that is that I recently let two Deere out of the stable to accomodate the Ford. Now I'm back to just the one Weekend Freedom Machine (and it ain't going anywhere!). The best part of all of this, however, was that I got to meet a fellow Redsquare member who lives right here in River City: Ben "4xfourfun". Great guy! Steve

Obviously not a 35 Vin... but you get the idea.

Baby that Lil' Techy... just my be the last one still running, known to man. What ever you do, don't let the Squonk anywhere near it.

Ed....I started one of those you're a peein' mounts with my buck.....I left it natural so it looks like this only with a clear coat...got to hang it on the wall somewhere with a family heirloom PA Long Rifle.....freshly bottled vino in the background!!

please don't scrap it,you will find a good home for it,especially since to have come here for help

I have rebuilt 3 throwers,a couple more than once,if the sprocket is that worn I would suspect she is in need of all 4 bearings and both idlers too,look at the drive sprocket too,these throwers work great but do take a beating and if all parts are not in good shape something will break,i live in a snow belt and the throwers get a lot of use so im just giving my opinion,ya it costs,but in the end when shes tearing through a foot of snow its nice to be able to count on it

If you like the dead man switch idea (I know I do) maybe mount a small toggle switch under the hood and have Terry rig up a nice label for a 'parkbrake-seat switch override' that would bypass your parking brake switch addition... You wont need that 'mode' very much but at least you will have the ability to turn it off when loading/unloading.

Craig, that picture is calendar worthy! Jeff your place sounds amazing, although I'm not sure I would want to plow that drive!

Ok. it's a side shot!

I agree i would use what they are originally call for or whatever is closest. I wouldn't risk ruining an old transmission that has nothing wrong with it.

Hey Randy...just north of you in Elgin. What a great day today...wind chill (-15 F) Great day to just think about what to do with the horse...I am watching Babe Winkleman catch Northerns in Minnesota in July right now. Gets rid of the winter blues for a little while.

Only room here for one... survivor shed on this forum.

Trust me, I've seen it, Jeff's driveway is epic... especially if you count where it actually leaves the highway.

When my dad built the house I grew up in he had them do the 150' driveway in concrete poured 8" thick with rebar (not typically done is residential driveways) cause he wanted to be long gone before it had to be redone. We've had loaded tri-axles take the driveway to a garage he was building just a couple years ago with no damage. Cost a small fortune but 27 years later there's nothing more than a couple hairline cracks in some spots.

HERE ARE SOME PICTURES OF MY 1992 310-8 I BOUGHT FOR $250. IT NOW RUNS THE FLOAT WAS STUCK AND NOW RUNS LIKE A CHAMP. I REPLACED THE 25 AMP INLINE FUSE HOLDER AND HOOKED UP TO THE ORIGINAL FUSE BOX AGAIN. THE NEXT THING IS TO GET THE STEERING WHEEL STRAIGHT AGAIN AND THEN A GOOD BATH AND POLISH, I ALREADY LISTED THE PLOW ON CRAIGSLIST FOR SALE. I WILL KEEP THE PICTURES POSTED. BOWTIE IN CENTRAL OHIO.

John, leave now ! Don't forget to stop at Mike's house on the way

Looks good, like it's been said the more room the more Stuff, you collect. I want a shed myself but I'm thinking a 30 x 56 12' eaves would work, but I need to tear the garage down plus sell my shed thats existing. I've got a few years worth of work to do before I can even begin to think about. The new hangout looks like it will work for sure. Jealous!!!

Is there a Tecumseh decal on the tins, up, under the hood. Can we see it please? If that's an original, aluminum block H-60.... you want to be very careful with that engine.

John, stop here on the way to Van's. I have a pie to send along!

Bruce, The company is TLC Electronics. The part number is 3V-187. They have a $40.00 minimum order. That will buy you about 270 of them. tlcelectronics.com

Try here. Item number 39. http://www.mowerpartpros.com/p/Wheel-Horse-Parts#/Toro_Consumer/73501%2c_520-H_Garden_Tractor%2c_1996_(SN_69000001-69999999)/ELECTRICAL_SYSTEM/73501-19414-1996/3317-890-%7c%7e8900043-00037 Cleat

No, Not the same. I remeber they were posted on here before Found it

I'm tempted to back up the truck to the trailer and take a pic of something that's been on there for weeks but you have all ready seen it. It's called SNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!

This service bulletin applies to your model Download the 4 pages Garry

Wow, what a nicely built shed. You could live in that thing!

Gary Pond (Cecil's son) sent me the following: The picture is here somewhere, I'll try to find it. The above photo shows 4th generation Jonathon Pond with a tractor that his Great-Granddad Elmer Pond designed.

Depends on condition. If you are willing to strap it to a pallet and take it to a Fastenal store, a buyer should be able to get that shipped for (usually much) less than $200. I would say you will get at LEAST $200 out of it depending on condition and that's a lot more than scrap. If it really gets down to it just sell it for whatever to someone who will save it from the scrap yard and use it for many years to come

Give me a break Craig....I just know your loving every minute of it

Just a little over 3 years for the shed. Waited a year for it to patina just a little and then sprayed it with a sealer. Probably need to do it again this year. Here's a pic of the deck now which was cleared of 2 ft + last week

I'm ready to cry uncle with this white crap.Snowed here all day and hasn't stopped yet.My back yard was closing in with 5 foot high piles.I just moved everything 20 feet back with my Ford 1710 with 5 foot blower on the 3 point hitch.All my machines are getting way too much of a work-out this year.6 months from now we'll be bitchin' that it's too hot.Never happy........

Really great job. I like the idea of making everything you can instead of buying the parts. If you have the meterial and the equipment then making your own parts truly makes it yours.

Superb video Ian , what kind of seat is planned ?

yay well done Ian it looks so good with that widened fender pan. are those brake disc making destroying your tools good luck for the rest of it. james

Go it back together today...rear end actually ended up being pretty bad., one of the bushings was badly worn, which made the axle move up and down which just about destroyed the axle/gear as well as the other gear. Luckily I had a parts tractor I bought at the big show that had gears in it I used to fix this one. Also noticed it only drove from one wheel, it looks this one was messed up from the factory as they welded the plate on backwards that cause the pauls to engage, the hub is however in great shape on that side which is a plug, to get it driving again just ended up welding where the dimples were and now it guides the springs and the paul engages driving the wheel! Also cleaned up the spindles old dried up grease and got everything nice and smooth, also added a set of the pins that go in the tie bar which helped tighten it up some. Here's a few pictures of it in progress and back together, Gear case cover cleaned up... where the plate was installed wrong and welded hubs/pauls cleaned up and back side of the case and finally a shot before the cover was installed Back on all 4's

I'm too old, forgetful. I have Never-Seez®, going to use some after paint dries on the tow hitch before reassembly. Thanks for the reminder!