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If you talk to the Old F____ they will always tell to use what the manufacture specified, that's why you have these tractors that are properly maintained lasting 50 + yrs

I'm starting to think I have an obsession with seeing blacktop... with more measurable snow predicted this Thursday... how else can you explain this kooky behavior?

From what I can tell from the old rifle...was most likely dated about 1840's....probably belonged the 2nd generation parent or his son. There is an engraving on the barrel with my last name...faint but legible....the GIT are the initials of my Great Uncle George Irvin Troutman....a 5th generation American...who was mustard gassed in WW1 and was awarded the Purple Heart. My dad just handed the rifle to me last year.... Dad is 92 this year.....

Thanks James. Yes the brake disc's didn't help my cutting tool's out at all.. But as it's taken me 2 odd years to get through a box of 10 cutting tips I can't blame it all on the discs.. Thanks Neil.. No idea on the seat yet, I guess it's what ever turns up at the right price and right time. Thanks dude.. I do try and make as much as I can.. Why buy it when when I can make it Also with a project like this, ready made parts will just not fit so I have no option other than to make bit's.. More bodywork.. With both sides of the fender pan widened but not fully welded.. It was time to sort out the drop in the middle.. A dig through the pile of scrap metal on site produced a couple of metal shelves which were just the right thickness... A bit of chopping and tack welding later and although not perfect the arches bit were looking good.. They do need to be angled down towards the front a bit more. Inner arch panels fully welded.. Looking from the inside, I think that could be classed as good welding penetration And here's how it looked by the end of yesterday. The arch extensions each side have been fully welded and all welds smoothed down. The bit's of steel across the top are only there to hold the arches square until I can get some strength added..

NOTE: The wiring diagrams in both the manual and in the electrical demystification guide are INCORRECT. All diagrams shown here have been corrected to the best of my knowledge. According to the owner’s manual, the 1996 416-H is supposed to have the following Safety Interlock System. It is designed to prevent the engine from starting unless: You are sitting in the seat The brake pedal is depressed The PTO is OFF The speed control lever is in neutral However, that scenario is not possible as the 416-H is wired. You DO NOT have to be in the seat Depressing the brake pedal is NOT necessary The PTO does have to be off The speed control lever is in neutral Two out of four is not a good safety record, and the two that are correct are in the START circuit, not the SPARK circuit. Here is why the Safety Interlock System is faulty. Seated on the tractor, the key is turned to the RUN position, and the seat switch being closed by the operator’s weight, activate the SEAT RELAY, closing the normally open contacts within that relay. This completes a path for 12 volts to flow from the RUN position on the ignition switch to the (+) side of the coil. So now we have SPARK. However, if you lift up off the seat switch, which should prevent SPARK and therefore not allow the engine to start, the path of the 12 volts changes as the seat relay de-energizes and the contact returns to the normally closed side, creating a path as shown in the next picture. So this is the first problem. This allows the operator to start the tractor while not in the seat, and worst yet, will cause the tractor to keep running if the operator should fall from the seat while moving, hense the term "deadman switch". However, another wrinkle is that if the PTO is engaged, as in mowing, the seat switch functions properly and will kill the engine if the operator lifts off the seat. THE CAUSE: There are two PTO switches. The first one (shown in the diagram above) is supposed to function to create a "kill" scenario when it is engaged, which it does, but it also creates an incorrect path when not engaged. The second PTO switch prevents the START circuit, keeping the starter from turning if engaged. That one works correctly. MY DILEMA:: I want the best of both worlds. I want the seat switch to function properly so that if someone is operating the tractor and falls from the seat, it will stop. Also, I want to be able to start the tractor, get off the seat and let it run (great for those cold times when the hydro needs to warm up). I also want a way to start the tractor while not in the seat, for service, etc. MY SOLUTION: Here is how I modified my 416-H to correct all the above. I added a second PARKING BRAKE SWITCH. Look at the diagram below. When the parking brake is set, the second switch is closed completing a circuit through the PTO switch allowing me to start the tractor while not in the seat. In this condition, the brake is locked, and the motion control is in neutral. When the parking brake is released, the switch opens. This open the circuit that was running through the PTO switch, and now causes the engine to stop if I lift off the seat. NOTE: The owners manual says that with the parking brake set, the engine should not crank. However, setting the parking brake has nothing to do with preventing the engine from cranking. The parking brake switch's only function is to turn the light on or off on the dash. Okay, did I over-think this, or is it a viable fix?

been so busy here lately haven't had the time to get the old girl back to working still have a few things to workout

-40 expected in northern NY Sunday. We're staying in NJ where it'll be a balmy ZERO TO -5!

Thing looks awesome Ed... you do some really nice work.

my passions are my grand children my 2 ( very lucky to have ) son and daughter.. and my new found (4 years) hobby WHEEL HORSE TRACTOR i still have the first one,,,,a 401 what i got with the tractors was unexpected,,,,,,A WHOLE NEW FAMILY... and non of this i would want to loose anytime soon.... THANKS GUYS,,,,,,

Thanks to our snow-less December and January here in CT, I was able to get 95% of my new shed completed. Well, it's not entirely fair to say "I" in any of the heavy lifting. I didn't do much of anything other than watch. I used a contractor that I’ve known for years that built my garage and house addition back in 2007. Initially this started out as a quest to replace the older 10'x12' with something a bit larger - and maybe with an overhead loft area. Then the idea of an overhead garage door came into the mix - giving me an ability to raise the loft floor higher so I can park my enclosed trailer in there for the winter...etc...etc. You know how these things go. Needless to say, the "shed" concept turned into a 14'x24' footprint with a full second floor and 6'6" ceiling height upstairs. Way more than the original scope of this project. Fortunately, the wife rolled with it as it unraveled. The town inspector on the other hand....ha..... He said this was the biggest, most over-built "shed" he's ever inspected. Thankfully for tax purposes it's permitted on the books as a "shed or accessory outbuilding". Due to the temperature, I have to wait until spring to paint the front doors and the shutters and gutters are due to be installed sometime next week.

We got last year, what you guys are getting this year. So far, it has been a rather average winter here. Cleared a couple inches 3 times, and an 18 incher once. I am liking the 2 to 3 inchers better.

From experience I would say no stove......

Good idea Karl... but I thought you meant TBT by throwing back .....

John, You need to come on down to North Carolina and leave all that snow behind ! Don't forget to bring your Dad, and the Wheel Horse stuff LOL

One daughter's front yard in Medford, Mass. on Sunday ! Other daughters trip to beach with granddaughter in Corpus Christi, Texas last week - 78 degrees!

Hey, they have it on Facebook, why not try here too? TBT as it's known! My Throwback Thursday is the race with my daughter. Funny looking back on this how much she's grown, in September she starts driving cars!

Hello all. I just wanted to post a little about my candidate for the longest rebuild ever on a WH I bought my Grandparents farm back in 2010 when Grandpa died and Grandma moved to town. Along with the farm I grew up on, I inherited this old Horse. When I was a kid it was the first thing I ever drove. It mowed 3 acres for a lot of years before Grandpa got something bigger and parked it outside under this lean to. So I moved in and started tearing it down back in winter of '10. The body was really straight. However, at some point someone had swapped out the 6hp Tech for a K181 Kohler. They also had done some work updating the decals. Notice the original script underneath the more recent decal. I then started in on the epic task of removing both rear hubs and the rear pin in order to split the tranny case to see what needed done. I figured since it sat outside, it had water in it. I was right, but it really wasn't all that bad. Also, I managed to break both hubs (no good puller) and had to drill out the rear pin. When I got it apart, it was a little gunky and dirty, but everything was in good shape, no missing teeth or anything, just some needle bearings that I had probably killed with my sad attempt at hub removal. I also pulled apart, cleaned and reassembled the differential: After some time in the e-tank the halves came out looking pretty good: I am having trouble with getting that last bearing in but otherwise, a few seals and a reassemble and the transmission is done. I have had a ton of fun with this even though it has taken me forever and I am not even into the motor portion of this yet. The body parts have all been e-tanked or stripped to bare metal, primed and repainted. It's a rattle can job, but I have tried to do a nice job on it. This will be a worker when done for garden duty and some log hauling for firewood. Id also like to say, "Thanks" to all the great members on here who have inspired me to keep going with their excellent builds, restos and just a great sharing of information. Especially stevasauras with that uni drive trans rebuild post. I'd have never attempted that without seeing that on here. Thanks to all. Will keep this going as I slowly proceed. I also have removed the old tires and redone the rims with the e-tank. They turned out great in my opinion. I will post more pics as soon as I can.

Balmy here too.

Actually didn't even change it cause it looked almost new with a clear brown color, tried it tonight and fired right off once I got the fuel flowing through the gascolator! can't believe my luck lately! It runs a slight bit rough and leaks on the bottom screw at the bowl but for sitting over a year not running and firing right off I can't be happier! Might tear into the carb this weekend. I will post the final pictures once I get the wheels all cleaned up! Thanks for all the comments and thoughts everyone, you talked me into the right decision

Tooo cold to work in the barn, so I caught up on my taxidermy work. Got the cape back on the buck this week. Now I just need to watch it dry... for 3months.

Of course you can see what's left of them...yes, that is the original h60 untouched, hasn't fired in about a year though, so almost ready to do that...but maybe I should listen if you have something to say about them, I know they're rare and parts are getting to be impossible...

What's your rated capacity on that thing? That looks like 1500lbs+ of snow!

Craig, that picture is calendar worthy! Jeff your place sounds amazing, although I'm not sure I would want to plow that drive!

Pics of my 1961 Wheel Horse 701 that I bought on January 31, 2015 from another Red Square member (owned by at least two others) that I forgot to post in the What's in Your Mirror thread!

Ok. it's a side shot!

I agree i would use what they are originally call for or whatever is closest. I wouldn't risk ruining an old transmission that has nothing wrong with it.

You've got a good point. You see two heads are always better than one.

Well if you count that its a mile and a quarter. Thankfully the towwnship plows to my real driveway....Craig theres a 59 for you that needs this view as well

Only room here for one... survivor shed on this forum.

You guys should try having a real driveway....75 feet pshaw....try a half mile.......

The plan is to definitely run power out there - maybe this summer. I already have the pipe underground going from the house out there. Probably not heat though. Even though it is an overkill shed, it is still intended to be storage. I have my garage as my primary workshop and place to tinker.

Nice pictures stevebo and nylyon good times, you want time to STOP! mine are 29 and 35, wow but have grandkids to help. Where has the time gone.

Here is my son Brennan who loves this hobby. He was 2 in the first pic. Next week he turns 8 and is my little superstar wrestler. I wish I could stop time ....

Looks good, like it's been said the more room the more Stuff, you collect. I want a shed myself but I'm thinking a 30 x 56 12' eaves would work, but I need to tear the garage down plus sell my shed thats existing. I've got a few years worth of work to do before I can even begin to think about. The new hangout looks like it will work for sure. Jealous!!!

Nice Blackhood Craig. And 75 feet of single lane for 5k doesn't sound too bad. Now if you want a real gut wrenching figure, do the math on a concrete driveway! Yow-sa!!!

Is there a Tecumseh decal on the tins, up, under the hood. Can we see it please? If that's an original, aluminum block H-60.... you want to be very careful with that engine.

X3 Working on the 48" SD deck, up on horses. Trying not to look outdoors too often, anyone have green grass deodorant? Just the grandsons wanna ride the snow waves! Are they nuts or what?

Not a whole lot of black smoke, but enough of a puff to make me smile. I guess I'll have to start looking for a bolens diesel now. Anything worth doing is worth over-doing. Steve

Bruce, The company is TLC Electronics. The part number is 3V-187. They have a $40.00 minimum order. That will buy you about 270 of them. tlcelectronics.com

Alright all, here's what I promised updated pics, the only thing left is the wheels, the old man dumped oil on them to preserve them....will be a horrible mess to clean but should make for beautifully preserved original wheels!

No, Not the same. I remeber they were posted on here before Found it

That's my fear Steve. You know the more room you have, the more junk you collect.

Wow, what a nicely built shed. You could live in that thing!

Keep that up and you be flipping the wear edge! I want to see the pile and when's the loader coming out?

Finished the light looms, here's the sidelights at dusk And the spots

Give me a break Craig....I just know your loving every minute of it

If it keeps coming down like it has this past month, there might be plenty for you to do in July Russ! Old Man Winter is keeping an eye on the situation. Put this chainsaw carving up on my shed in the fall but would like to do a better mount for it later in the year.

Well, still hoping to set the record for "longest rebuild ever" with this one. Just today, I managed to get a pair of old hubs off of a donor transmission that had set in my barn for about a year. Worked pretty hard at them but now have a means to attach tires. They are not the correct ones for the year, they are newer, but they will work and I'm not really all that big after, "chronologically correct". They will go on this weekend and I need to get my K181 figured out and start looking to source some tires.

Go it back together today...rear end actually ended up being pretty bad., one of the bushings was badly worn, which made the axle move up and down which just about destroyed the axle/gear as well as the other gear. Luckily I had a parts tractor I bought at the big show that had gears in it I used to fix this one. Also noticed it only drove from one wheel, it looks this one was messed up from the factory as they welded the plate on backwards that cause the pauls to engage, the hub is however in great shape on that side which is a plug, to get it driving again just ended up welding where the dimples were and now it guides the springs and the paul engages driving the wheel! Also cleaned up the spindles old dried up grease and got everything nice and smooth, also added a set of the pins that go in the tie bar which helped tighten it up some. Here's a few pictures of it in progress and back together, Gear case cover cleaned up... where the plate was installed wrong and welded hubs/pauls cleaned up and back side of the case and finally a shot before the cover was installed Back on all 4's

I keep both on my tractors. Makes life easier! I like to use never seize thread lube on the pin. Joe