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Brought home my first Wheel Horse tractor yesterday. After a lot of input from forum members I was able to find a good deal on a nice 520 not too far from home. This tractor came up on Craigslist a couple weeks ago but when I called the fellow said it had been sold. I left him my number in case that sale didn't work out. Yesterday morning he called me out of the blue saying the other buyer fell through. So I went down to get this. 700 hours, the engine sounds really good. It starts right up, no smoke, but it does have some cosmetic issues- seat, no rubber mats on the foot beds, one of the bezels for the front lights is broken. Came with snow plow, chains, and very solid 60" mowing deck. I could barely fit that mowing deck into the back of my truck! Although I don't intend to do a restoration on this tractor- I bought it for working, I will be looking to go over it throughly, tighten things up, clean up what I can and maybe replace a few things here and there. I'll also be on the lookout for a snow thrower. I appreciate all your input the last few weeks helping me find something. And I'm sure I'll be back to the forum often for inspiration, tips, and help. Feels great to be part of the herd. Only down side is I just got her home and now I've got family obligations the rest of the week. No the Wheel Horse isn't considered part of the family- yet. All the best, Peter

On the C195 with a helper pushing the snow banks back in anticipation of more snow!

the moble marion motel Brian

Every once in a while... make 'em earn their keep, right?

Well after the engine swap to my spare and removing a lot of grass under the tower along the frame, tightening loose bolts, adjusting and tightening the transmission linkage, fixing corroded connections and ones that looked bad, I finally ran the tractor with the spare Onan. Runs real well so far. Just a little puff of smoke on start up and nothing after that. Smooth idle and great power especially compared to the original engine with the failing rear cylinder. I mentioned in my earlier post about throwing some Carlisle 26 x 12 x 12 rear meats on the tractor and eliminating the duel wheels I had on it. (You can snap axles with duel wheels and especially on a tractor your working). I appreciate other members warning me about duel wheels and axle issues! The 26 x 12 x 12's would give me enough of the stability I was looking for with the duels without the added stress on the axles. (Plus at 26" high, they are really cool but I'm 57 years old so that doesn't count). Problem is anything that high is not going to fit under a horse's fenders plus the side rails. I was asked to post what I did "if" I got them on the tractor so here are some pics...... Used a plasma cutter and trimmed the lip off both "upper" side rails then "rough cut" an area around the gas cap on the fender tub so I could reach in and remove the gas cap since it would be "under" the tub surface. (First 2 pics) Next measured a needed 2.25 inches of height on the fender tub to clear the tires on the top. Next I bent the upper foot-rails inward with the missing lip so it would move past both the side pieces on the flywheel side and the belt guard on the PTO side so the tire would clear......barely!!!!!! (The Next 2 Pics) Next.......I used half channel slotted strut, (inch and 5/8th's) which happened to be leftovers used by electricians at my place of employment and I cut pieces of heavy-duty polyethylene, (HDPE), I bought online to make my 2 and a quarter inch risers for under the fender tub. The HDPE is hard but bites on the metal and eliminates vibration. Kind of a cross between a gasket and a flange. Pics of the strut and the HDPE plus the much longer bolts I needed are shown beside the stock bolts used under the seat and a picture with them bolted together under the fender. (Next two pics). The gas cap is very easy to get to and take off and on and so is the tranny dipstick and the adjustment area for the transmission's linkage. Pros............These tires with their width will give me the stability using the loader I needed verses the stock lug tires. I had to eliminate using the duels which were pretty cumbersome in tight places. These new tires also barely stick out beyond the bucket which eliminated compressed snow with the dual tires on each side. This was a big PIA when clearing snow off a driveway and especially along the edges. Being a tad higher gives a feeling of being on a bigger tractor and I still have plenty of room between the steering wheel and my legs. I actually have more lower leg room now! I have a little better ground clearance in the rear though the front remains the same so it's not much of a Pro. The ride feels better. Can't explain that one but it feels that way. Easy modification! Not much to it! Cons...........You don't want to get your hands/fingers between the tires and the metal on top and on the side-rails. It will tear them up and quickly! With that upper lip gone on the side panels of the foot-rails, the tires will throw mud/water through the slight opening onto the foot-rails and possibly on the back of your boots or paint legs. The tires took more room on the sides which makes getting on and off the tractor with the loader a little hairy! With my size 12 boots, you don't have much room getting on and off it! You can really notice the cut-out I made for the gas cap. I plan to make a little plate with some magnetic adhesive/vinyl on the back painted red to cover this though. Pretty sure I can come up with something to stop the water or mud from splashing through the foot-rail too. It's hard to really see the size of these tires on a garden tractor unless your right there. PS....the tires were bought used and on some pretty interesting rims that a person welded together. Thanks to Redsquare member and neighbor David, (chev0545), for letting me wheel & deal on them for use on this little project!

With all of the Wheel Horse fans out there, I’m surprised that I’ve not seen any decorations as I just completed on my RJ-58. When I finished putting my WH back together my daughter-in-law suggested some blazing flames would be a nice added touch. I wasn’t too hot on the idea, but the more I thought about it, the more I thought this might be pretty cool. So, I made a paper cut out, set it on the hood, took a picture, and emailed it out to a few friends, including my daughter-in-law. I got back nothing but favorable comments, from a “big thumbs up†to “you'd be smokin'!†So, I drew and cut out a stencil, sprayed on some old yellow and orange paint I had and here’s the result. Is this cool or what? My wife even said “You should have some fun with this".

Hmmm....an open flame inches from the fuel cap....not a good idea! Mike............

it's been out of commission for awhile but it's back with a new motor and new rear meat, some maintenance on just about everything and after moving some snow piles back from the road and driveway, I shined it up in the garage since the temps were in the high 30's today with a little rain! Now I need to find another Onan or repair the original that was in it. Need to tear into that later this week or next weekend to find it's issues though I just know it is most likely a valve seal in the rear cyl.

As some may know when I joined this forum I was the new owner of my first round hood, I'm the 2nd owner of this untouched original 653 that has sat for 20 years in a barn after its owner passed and the kids decided to sell to me. I was raised with a father that brings old tractors back to life by repainting and making them look better then factory show room! All this talk lately about patina oil finishing(what I always called rat rod finish) is starting to peak my interest. Today I wheeled her in the heated garage and steel wooled just the hood and am on the fence, don't know if she's in need of what my original plans of frame off resto or if she is a great candidate for this patina show finish? The only thing that makes me second guess is when I pull the original seat pan cover back and see that beautiful original finish underneath.... Wandering what you all would do and why? And would you replace the original decals when keeping the patina look or let the worn down ones on her?

Got my room at the Red Carpet Inn (Right next to "The Crackerbarrel" ) in chambersburg. I'm ready to go but the tractor isn't. It may not make it this year as the wife and I will be there all week before the show to do some sightseeing. Hope to pack a lot in before the weekend and top it off with "The Big Show". We're heading home sunday morning.

They are only patina once after lets say...... 50 years ?? Do nothing but clean it up and running as you like.

Since Bob has bumped this thread, (thanks Bob!) i thought id share a decal change that #1 is going through right now. #1 has been more than earning its keep lately with all the snow we've had. the tall chute blower/416 combo is just tearing up the snow around here. couldn't ask for more from this revived from the dead blower, the auger has a small balance problem which needs to be sorted, but for now its going to be used as is for the rest of the winter........ so since #1 has been working so hard its getting a reward with new decals, hood and seat pan decals are done and on the tractor, just waiting for the hood stand side decals to arrive in the mail and they will be on too..... Thanks Terry for putting up with me again!!!! #1 hasn't had much time in this thread of late so here are some pics..... this will be the hood stand side decal design, probably should have waited until i got these on too, but whatever, i feel like posting something right now...........

Well, like the Chrysler Cordoba... there's always that rich Corinthian leather.

If your interested I can save you a lot of time and effort and sell you my mini dozer. It's a Lennon Kittytrack 600. Really rare. Needs a little work but it's all there and complete. I have the complete manual with parts break down. It's not cheap but would save you a ton of time and work.

Looks good and will strand out in a crowd! I also use a chrome gas cap (sold online) and a chrome Harley Davidson softtail heatshield for added bling! Chromes gas cap not on in this photo: Chrome gas cap on in this photo with the snowplow:

I like It Martin!! Very Nice!! Just curious, what do those Deere weights weigh?? I do know that its alot of "Dead" weight ....

Usually pretty quiet at the Comfort Inn. Saturday night is usually the loud night.

Why would you even consider removing the gorgeous patina on that tractor? Hands down...I vote keep it.

Booked our room at Comfort inn Chambersburg PA this morning.

This was always my favorite truck /blower mod.

Now that is some heavy duty rubber. Nice job Boo. I also raised the fenders 2" on my 520 to get more clearance for the chains. I moved the foot rests forward about 1.5" to close the gap at the fender.

Would have loved to see that sled ride! ON the tonneau cover: I have a Truxedo Lo Pro QT (low profile, cant really see it from the side) and it has no problems in any temperature. The fabric stays very flexible even when covered in snow. It does try to melt my hand off on a mid summer day though... I would HIGHLY recommend it, the whole thing has a lifetime guarantee.

Unless you where doing their driveway!

look at the angle lever where it is banging into the brake pedal. note that there is a square notch ( or should be) on the opposite side of the angle lever. disconnect and flip the angle lever around. you will need to flip the angle lever hardware too but if you download the owners manual, it has the instructions. that notch is for any of the models that had the brake on the right. with the hydro, it doesn't matter.

Getting it later today! You guys are really no help at all. If this was a terminal condition you would just be pushing me to my death. Now I have to go into the engine shed and move a dozen or so engines so I can fit this behemoth on the shelf. I have to re-evaluate the people I associate with.

I sell these bushings for $3.plus $1 shipping .I've never had any luck reusing them with out them leaking.There is a little secret to installing them.Coat the out side with a good lube spray or vasaline,start it in to the tank,about 1/4 the way.Than coat the fitting the same way start it into the bushing about the same 1/4 of the way.Than push the bushing in all the way than the fitting all the way.If you install the bushing all the way before starting the fitting you will never get the fitting in as the hole in the tank is a press fit.

New one with the screen intact .

Keep it original I replaced the stickers on mine because they were missing but I think it they look great

Linkage issues can prevent a tractor from reaching its top speed. Has anyone tried to check their top speed with a GPS? My GPS does report vehicle speed, it knows the speed limits and it keeps me from getting a ticket at least so far. I have not used my GPS to measure tractor top speed but it seems like it could be used to do so. Even the slower 520Hs should be fast enough for most applications if the linkage is properly adjusted.

Thank you Van, I'm thinking my condition... is caused by way too much seat time in my work RJ this season... currently at 70 hrs of OT this pay period, with more snow coming tonight.

Good advice here, thanks to everybody who's contributed. Tommy and Bill, you might also consider replacing the fuel line at this point, as long as you have everything apart.

Nice video Craig!

It's amazing how many little variations are in the blade handles and tractor's them selves. I bought a blade about 4 yrs. ago. bolted right up on my 76 C-160 Auto with no issues. This year I wanted to put it on my 73 12 8 spd and the angle handle hit the running board. There was a little difference in the boards and the mounting holes so I just couldn't swap boards. I ended up taking the board off and mounted a foot stirrup off of my 704. funny thing, I'm liking the stirrup better than the board!

For the third straight year I'll be stayin at the Hippie Van Hotel.. Location, fairgrounds!

Here's mine. Collecting parts still. Got just about everything except the small throttle cable bracket on the engine block. Pm if you have a spare According to Wisconsin s/n: 2667569. 1956 with a hood plus optional distributor timing

Finally got the seat finished today thanks to Mrs K. This is what we started with. Had to weld the seat pan back together. Then made a new bottom cushion. We saved the back cushion w/the WH emblem by adding a new edge. Then put it all together. It's no museum piece, but she looks happier than when I found her. The tractor that is.

The following link is in reference to post #2 here... crazy to think that was 380 posts ago... after starting off so slow...the snow season has been going like gang busters here lately. .

Ahhh! Bask... in all that wonder twin power.

What's that stuff on the ground?

So, what's so good about them apart from all the chrome bits?

Finished my custom, bolt-on (2 bolts), twin header. This thing sounds unbelievable now.

Thanks Jerry After lot's of turning the lump of green painted steel in the lathe in my last update turned into this spacer/brake hub thingy.. Next up in the lathe was a stripped down wheel hub.. Notched.. The spacer/brake hub thingy is a perfect fit And now for the brake disc starting with this 5 inch square of 5mm thick steel... I've no idea what the coating is or what they do during the manufacturing process but this steel is very hard stuff which is quite handy for a brake disc, but it makes it a right pig to turn on the lathe! Getting there.. Almost there... Spacer thingy and disc.. It all fit's inside the wheel... Just A hint of things to come... I can't do anymore brake or steering work until some carbide cutting tips and some rather hefty rose joints turn up.. It will be nice to get away from the lathe for a while anyway So yesterday I decided I'd have a look at the fender pan and seat mounting... There is only one way to work out where the seat will go.... Yep, that feels about right This is the start of the seat/fender pan mounting frame, I do need to add more but I need the fender pan to fit first so I can work out what's what.. Hhmm... The fender pan needs a bit of work to make it fit.. It need to be wider and the bit the seat bolts onto need to be about 6 inches lower!! Let's tackle the widening bit first.. The original fender pan was very rotten in the middle and at the back, but I kept the "arches" parts should they come in handy one day A 2 1/4 section was sliced from the spares arch and plonked roughly in place.. Due to fender pans having lot's of different curves and contours a few tweaks will be needed A bit of cutting and welding later and the fender pan was wider one side with matching curves up top.. Oo-er missus The front and back don't quite line up, but I can't work that bit out until the center of the fender pan is in place.. You can see how much wider it is compared to the left side. And that Gent's is this build up to date other than....... A video

I took it upto around 15 mph and I started to get G force in my face lol, you are probably right she would do a tad more mph. It just so happens that I bought another one last week

I grew up on a farm and remember using one of these to check out starters and generators over 50 years ago, thanks for putting a smile on my face. We also had a commutator cutting lathe, very cool. Each farm in the area had a few specialty tools and we would do one another's work without any money changing hands.

YOUR DRILL IS TO FAST. USE A SLOW SPEED DRILL.

Napa sells new fuel tank bushings. If yours is not damaged or really hard maybe you could reinstall it. You will have to pull out the fuel valve put the bushing in the tank, then push in the fuel valve. Some silicone spray will make things go easier.

just for those that are wondering what differences there are between the jd 317 front axle and standard wh 416 heres a few pics i took earlier while working out what needed to be changed to use it......

Not like the "regular" loaders you have here but it's a kind of loader and it works real good!

do your self a favor and run a compression check before you go any further !!!!!!if it is between 75 and 125 psi you are with in spec. if at lower end you may want to do a decarbon and valve job but if you go to the manual it will tell you how to check all components of the electrical, coil, ignition trigger, rebuilding carb an a whole lot more. so run the compression check 1st. who knows it could be just bad plugs or wires. i just had to replace the plugs in my 520H that i have my 2 stage blower on. last week i went to start it and it started missing and blowing fire out the exhaust. ran a compression check found 120 psi per cylinder, put new set of plugs in and it even starts better now, blew 2" of snow real good last night and ran like a champ. just my 2 cents worth eric j

Don't forget the WorkHorse GT-1800/1848 models. 26" tall tires will get you some speed too.