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Every once in a while... make 'em earn their keep, right?

I wasn't going to reply to this topic but after a couple of PM's asking my opinion I figured I'd chime in. First and most importantly a fundamental belief that I have. Forums are communities where information is shared. RedSquare is a community for Wheel Horse enthusiasts. We are not a business and aside from forum hats and supporter packages don't sell anything. Our philosophy is and always has been to support as broad a range of collector / owners as we can. We do this through the sharing of technical information, personal friendships and a sense of community for a shared interest. We have and continue to support other communities as well, and they have supported us when we needed it too. In the end all these communities have the same goals to provide information and friendship amongst the members and visitors, and most do it very well. It's been accepted practice here to allow the posting of other forums as well as the discussion of them as long as it doesn't turn into forum bashing. To me, nothing is worse than going onto a community / forum and seeing posts about "that other forum" and how they do this, do that, ban this, edit that.... and that will not be tolerated here of WheelHorseStable or any other forum. So my opinion. I personally like RedSquare, but I have also joined up on WheelHorseStables.com. It is somewhat out of curiosity but also in support of the effort. I am certain that many of you will enjoy both forums, and some will prefer WheelHorseStables and some RedSquare, and that's okay with me, I don't feel that there needs to be a competition. No one is going to get banned from RedSquare because they joined another forum and like it better, really it's okay, there's no such thing as one size fits all in this world. Now, that said, we will insure that proper respect is given to all other communities here on RedSquare, and that means that we can't be having talk of the "other" forum. It's fine to reference posts and information on WheelHorseStables via links where applicable, but please be sure to respect the intellectual property from WheelHorseStables.com as I am sure they will respect ours on RedSquare. So that's my opinion, I hope that you are able to enjoy both, of course RedSquare a little bit more

I finally figured out how to download these pictures. This particular one goes about 25 mph. Its also dirty in these pictures because I was out playing with it. What do you all think?

So so you can keep up with the latest Traffic lights with countdown indicators . A pen that lets you scan and write in any color. Wall outlets with USB chargers. It should also come with a built-in night light . And the ultimate outlet would also have extension cords built into the wall . Small tiles you can attach to your keys, wallet, computer, or pretty much anything. If you lose anything, you can then look up their location on your Smartphone . Fresh pizza vending machines . Benches that you can turn to always have a dry seat . Power strips that you can expand and rotate . Mug that catches any drips . Parking garages with lights showing open spaces . Stairs with slides . Supermarkets with build your own 12-packs of soda . How to stop littering . Back pack with hood -- where was this when I was in school? Device that charges your phone from hot or cold drinks. Or this solar powered charger. Water fountains with built-in water bottle filling station. Subways where you can pay by recycling. Device to lift the Pringles up. A fun way to clean. A hair brush that is easy to clean . Ear buds that won’t tangle. USB rechargeable batteries. Packing tape that is easy to open. Bike racks that don’t take up sidewalk space. Caution signs that are funny. Movie theater screens in the bathroom so you don’t miss anything. Even better if the theater has bean bag seats. And a Red Garden Tractor that just goes on and on and does everything . . . Oh, we have that, a Wheel Horse. ct: RE: What's new in 2015

Don't know how I missed this little tidbit of entertainment the last few days ... but all I can say is ...wow ....

Add one more to the "very well stated Karl" pile. Very well written and thought out

Being a younger man, a couple years before 30 I didn't grow up with these older tractors and systems. I have been enjoying learning about how these old starter/generators work on our beloved horses. After venturing through my first teardown (cleaning commutator and new brushes/ bearings) things seem a little simpler and my want to further check these things out before putting them back to service enticed me to buy this little gem. I know there are ways of checking armatures out with multi-meters, but there is something about preserving these old tractors, along with the technology and nostalgia of these old tools. I have re-wired the whole unit (except for the transformer), and turned it on for the first time today and she worked! just thought I'd share.

Well,I really didn't need another 416H,but you know how it goes.I've been watching this 416H on Craigslist for about 3 weeks.With all the snow we've gotten lately,I couldn't believe it wasn't sold by now.Went and looked at it yesterday,made an offer, and brought it home.Has a single stage tall chute blower,plastic wheel weights,and tire chains.It's a 1995.I think it's the newest Horse in my stable.Just over 400 hours.I haven't been overly impressed with the 2 stage blowers.I'm gonna try this one out.Maybe I'll have 2 or 3 two stage for sale here soon.I can't believe the shine on the original paint on this tractor.Gotta put my cab on it for next Winter.Enjoy the pics.

I disagree, he's not abusing it. You wont burn out the eaton pushing snow in high gear... All of the eatons up until the XI series ONLY had "high gear". Pushing snow/dirt is harder on it than mowing, but they were designed for that. There are MANY 30+ year old hydros still going strong. I DO agree though, that if you have the traction (weights and chains) that slow and steady is the more effective in most conditions... There are plenty of times i've had to just get some momentum behind it and I am just careful to make sure I'm not going to 'hit a wall' with it. If you feel the case it will be hot, the eaton manual states that operating temps can and should be up around 180*F. If you are getting hotter than that, then it is an issue, but I doubt you are.

Just wanted to thank you guys for your help. Just got a new fuel pump installed today and the tractor fired right up and kept going. For anyone who is interested this is the model I got. http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8016S-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000C1LW0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423252669&sr=8-1&keywords=Airtex+E8016S+Electric+Fuel+Pump I hooked the positive wire to the ignition on the switch and before I go to start the engine I let it sit there for a second to let the gas get to the carb. Then I start the engine and it fires right up. Now onto the snow blower.

It's actually pretty difficult roasting nuts, in single digit temps...hence the wool jacket.

Go it back together today...rear end actually ended up being pretty bad., one of the bushings was badly worn, which made the axle move up and down which just about destroyed the axle/gear as well as the other gear. Luckily I had a parts tractor I bought at the big show that had gears in it I used to fix this one. Also noticed it only drove from one wheel, it looks this one was messed up from the factory as they welded the plate on backwards that cause the pauls to engage, the hub is however in great shape on that side which is a plug, to get it driving again just ended up welding where the dimples were and now it guides the springs and the paul engages driving the wheel! Also cleaned up the spindles old dried up grease and got everything nice and smooth, also added a set of the pins that go in the tie bar which helped tighten it up some. Here's a few pictures of it in progress and back together, Gear case cover cleaned up... where the plate was installed wrong and welded hubs/pauls cleaned up and back side of the case and finally a shot before the cover was installed Back on all 4's

To put the trans back on to the frame it really helps to take a couple of 3/8 x 2" bolts...cut the heads off and the burrs from that...use those bolts, as studs, in opposite holes to line up the trans on the frame. It makes it so much easier to start and tighten the other 2 bolts...then remove the studs with a pair of pliers and place the last 2 bolts. This is the best tip there is.

Geno, thanks for posting in this thread finally. I do not think anyone wishes you "ill will" with what you are doing. Actually, I wish you luck in what you are trying to do. I just think you went about it wrong...as it was stated you were trying to run a business. Quite honestly, your attitude is going to keep me from being a part of your endeavor. Your post #40 is testament to what I am saying. I wish you no ill will and I hope it works for you...I hope you understand that I will not be a part of your ego. Fair winds and following seas Mate.

Join a forum and in less than 12 months as a member start advertising your own forum.

OK Blue...what is it...honestly??? Geno has said nothing in this thread...it is all just a few guys speaking for him. I feel like I am in the 5th grade again.

Gentlemen...I have to add this. If you are going to have a site to enhance your business (which makes perfect since), why would you want to have it closed to members only?? I would think that I would want to make it available to any Ja-moke that was interested in what Geno has for sale, prices for things, and a list of inventory. Just thinking.

Why another WH site?

What I didn't show on my exhaust stack Engine Run was what I had hidden under the yellow rag. I have procured the Parts and fabbed some and have put together a remote oil filter Kit for the Onan P220G Engines. The Oil Filter on these presently blocks approx 35% + of the airflow to the rear Cylinder? Could this be part of the reason for the Valve Seat Problem Due to the increased heat? what I do know it sure doesn't help. spending a good majority of my life dealing with Heat Transfer of one type or another I can see where the filter is located on these engines, could cause a problem. The pluses to having a remote mounted oil filter would be. 1. Increased Oil Capacity 2. Increased Filter Capacity (Larger Filter) 3. Broader Range of Filter Availability. 4. Easier Filter Changing. 5. Reduced Rear Cylinder Temperature's. The Oil Filter adapter Part (4) on the drawing below # 122-0369 is No Longer Being Offered Since Nov 2010. Onan told me that Is when they quit Offering These and their last price before that time just for that Part # 122-0369 was over $200.00. To purchase all the parts to make up one of these kits would cost around $ 450.00 I currently found an Onan Dealer that had the adapters and I have purchased all that he had. What I have left is 12 of these adapters, and will be putting together 12 complete kits to convert these engines oil filters over remotely. I will be selling these Kits for $285.00 for a Wix/Nappa Gold filter or $300.00 For an Amsoil Filter with Nano Fiber Technology filtering down to 20 microns. Just the These prices includes shipping. If anyone wants just the Oil Filter Adapter Part (4) it will be $175.00 Shipping is Included and I will ship the adapter Immediately. Here is what you will Get in the Kit 1 Oil Filter Adapter 1 Oil Filter Adapter Gasket 2 1 1/4" Bolts. 2 1/2 X 3/8 300 PSI push on barbed fittings. 2 1/4 X 3/8 300 PSI push on barbed fittings. 10' 3/8 300 PSI Braided Hose 1 Filter Blank off with Oil Line Holes 1 Remote Oil Filter bracket & Hardware 1 Oil filter as explained above. Anyone Interested in this Kit for the price above, PM Me.They will be offered on a fist come first serve basis.sometime early spring before mowing season starts. If no interest shown, Not a problem Ill put them on flee bay, but not for this price. Here are some Pics and examples of how much the oil filter blocks the airflow to the head and the components and the increased size of the filter & finally a Movie of it Opperating.

A little humor from Texas. Get most of these from out of state...hmmm.

Nice tall shoot but for a maybe a vertical....can it be converted easily? Bolt on parts?

I think this has run it's course.

I wish I thought of that one!

If your 2 stage is not impressing you, then I agree with ericj. Check the PTO. There is a lot of machinery on the 2 stage that the PTO has to drive without slipping. I had to replace the PTO clutch disk on my 520H with a 2 stage. Or, maybe don't bother and just sell us your poorly performing 2 stage real cheap?

Welcome to another session of SOI University a recognized institute of higher learning, experimentation, investigation and serious shenanigans are the norm for the day. An old friend called me up to help him work on his lawn tractor - how could I refuse. We tried to get his non wheel horse 11Hp tractor started the other day. I was rewarded with this - a top terminal starter solenoid with symptoms of a good click but no power to the starter. We substituted a good solenoid and the tractor worked fine. I put this one in my pocket and had something to take apart and play with over the rainy weekend. Around here, rain means something comes apart ... A quick trip to the drill press to drill off the heads of the rivets securing the metal frame / base to the housing gets us this far removal of the nuts holding the copper studs and the trigger lead and pressing the studs out from the housing label a few interesting items on the back side of the coil assembly a closer look at the spot welding of the negative coil lead to the grounded body of the solenoid coil closer inspection of the problem area of this solenoid - vaporized contactor studs and contactor disc one contactor stud was really blown away in the area touched by the contactor disc the edges of the studs are vaporized because the disc only touches the studs in a limited area - this tractor also sat for years and the engine had seized - and many attempts were made to start the engine before it was free to turn over. so I cleaned up the contactor studs rotated both studs 180 degrees in the housing to provide a fresh area for the disc to contact flipped the disc over in the plunger mechanism to provide a clean non-pitted surface for the studs to contact and reassembled the parts back to original a few small bolts to attach the bottom ground plate to the body and the solenoid is now fully functional again. So if you have that one off type solenoid or just have to keep stuff original at all costs - this may work out for you. For me, its just a cheap date on a rainy weekend.

Sounds like you're playing games. When are you going to really start using it? I have a 522xi with a factory loader. It has approx 1100 hours. In the 3 years I've owned it maybe I put 50 hours on it. It was traded into a dealer where I picked her up. Every nut and bolt was loose. It wouldn't get anywhere near top speed. The steering linkage was a mess. The loader hardly picked itself up, forget about trying to put a load in the bucket. The dealer also had a mower deck 2 stage snow blower, snow plow, & cab. All of that equipment looked like it had been abused as well. I left all of the equipment there and brought her home. I saw it for the diamond in the rough that it is. It seemed to do everything it should just very poorly. Several hours with some wrenches and loctite turned out to be a solid investment. Adjudted the loader valves too. Today she reached top speed, loader & extra weights add 600-700 lbs + driver @ 260lbs. She easily moves just about any load I can get in the bucket. As much as I adore our original lil red tractors they don't hold a candle to the Xi series. Back to your original question concerning a "limit." Just when you think you've maxed her out PUSH HER A LITTLE HARDER. Heres a simple test. If your really bored one day.... Hook her up to a full size pickup truck, like my F150 crew, and tow the truck up hill with your Xi. Almost forgot about the squeezing sound from your lift. It's just to remind you that it's there. They all seem to do that, even my 314h.

Hey guys! My friends down in Bama are hosting their annual plow day. These guys always put on a great time and have nice sandy soil that turns easily. Mostly Green and Yellow are the ones that show up, but you can help change that. I think they usually have around 20-30 guys and gals plowing. Long and straight runs make for a nice day. There isnt very much in the area for food, but i remember them sometimes having lunch or folks just bring their own. Most of the out of towners stay at the Microtel Inn in Albertville. The plowing starts on the afternoon of the 20th and will start again the next morning. Come if you can. Come even if you dont have something to plow with, as im sure someone will need a break at some point. Address is: 1209 Lena Rd. Horton AL. 35980 Heres a little video they took last year.

I took it upto around 15 mph and I started to get G force in my face lol, you are probably right she would do a tad more mph. It just so happens that I bought another one last week

All great suggestion. Just try to keep the seafood out of the onan. Especially shellfish, really tends to clog things up Sorry, cracked me up this morning.

Not to hijack the thread, but it also had wheel weights mounted inside the hubs. I estimate the machine's weight to be about 1300lbs in that configuration. It didn't have chains on it, and would push 6" of the wet-heavy stuff straight up that driveway --which is about 80' long and an incline of about 35 degrees. Can't say I miss it, though. Wasn't fun to work on --not that it really ever needed it. I prefer my small, nimble tractors.

I typically paint the rims with a brush using semi gloss rusto and it seems to give the look I want. I am not looking to make the rims too glossy but clean. I then use miller's tire paint and paint the tires. On the paint I have wet sanded and/or scotchbrite pads. I have used new motor oil, old motor oil, WD-40 and Marvil Mystery oil. I tend to like the mystery oil sprayed out of a bottle because I can get in into the areas I cannot reach with a rag. I can be dirty but I like the look.

Love the "count down red light"! Takes me back to drag race days.

Just thought I would post this picture.

Karl. Very well stated. My hats off to you sir. Glenn

Made SOME progress this week, After discovering the trans was in need of some attention. so i put in all new seals and bearings and of course I had to track down a cluster gear and both sliding gears. it was also missing both shift levers and the input pulley,(not sure why the previous owner removed then lost those) Thanks to Shuboxlover for those. Got a bunch more small parts on their way from Daveoman this week also. This poor tractor has been raped and pillaged something awful. LOL So as of now the tranny is in one piece again and bolted to the cleaned up frame.

I used to be real big into guitars before cars came into the picture, then jet ski's, then houses, then kids and now tractors. Lol. I still have five guitars and amps buried away in hopes that someday my son will find an interest. This is a pic of my sunburst strat 12 that I custom ordered through the Fender custom shop back in the early 90's. In the late 80's these were produced for a very short run. I had an opportunity to buy one but never did. I always wanted one though. When I finally had a chance to custom order one, I went through The East Coast Music Mall in Danbury, CT (which is now long gone) and according to them, Fender claimed to only have two original 12 string necks left from the original production run. This is supposedly one of them. I have all the order paper work with it too. Funny thing is, I think I've only used it a handful of times - and was scared to death taking this picture afraid it might get scratched.

Those look fantastic, you wouldn't happen to be interested in making one with a campfire on it would ya?

I am currently going to school to be a mechanic. I am fortunate enough that my instructors grew up with these generators and growlers and are willing to spend some extra time teaching me more about them.

A slipping pto clutch will emit quite a squeal if it is not tight enough to take the load. Try shortening up the trunnion on the clutch rod about 2 turns and see if it goes away. Garry

OH MAN! Looks like the poster child for the Original Cab Company.

Maybe it's just me but this sure seems to be heading in the direction that defies the one rule. "Just be nice?" Oh wait....that's a different site. Never mind.

I will try to answer everything one at a time Steve. I know there are a lot of questions out there. I didn't build the site to enhance my business. I built it so whoever bought something from me could get help when they needed it from people that could help, especially when I'm not around. When warm weather hits I will be gone a lot. That's why the decal has the site and phone on it and doesn't even mention sales or service. If you concentrate solely on service the sales will follow. I've never advertised in my lifetime, ever. My business has never even had a sign, a name on the building, or the mailbox. It's even pretty much hidden with trees on a hill, and people here who have been to my shop will tell you that it is hard to find even though it's on a main 4 lane highway. I have always said if you treat people right they will beat the door down to get to you. Seems like someone who retired at 52 to play with the Horses has proven that point pretty well. It took me 2 weeks to get the board the way I wanted it, then I wanted about 2 more weeks with the mods to find the obvious bugs, run it through some paces, and do moderator training. Being the Admin, I couldn't even see what other groups could see. It is still member and my customers only now to give it a better shakedown and I'm finding a few more things I have to fix. I'm not new to this board thing either, I owned one over 12 years ago with 60K members. If things stay the way they have been I may never even mention what I have for sale on my site, like I never did here. It's hard to mention what's for sale when I have 14 on a waiting list right now. I can't get them restored fast enough. My CL ad even says the ones pictured are sold and we are getting others ready because we can't keep up... That is what I'm up to as far as sales go, but there is a whole lot more coming. We are also turning a part of the shop it into a fabrication area and going to get much deeper into parts this year We have a shear, roller and brake on the way now. You guys should know by now when I do something I don't mess around...

I have to agree 100 percent. I myself belong to a few other sites, talk wheel horse stuff there to. I also met Gene, a great regular nice guy. I like wheel horse, I like getting around and chatting with others about them. Glenn

Yes Blue. Some of us already know that.

Thanks Blue! I see it's a members only sight. You can't even have a look around to make a choice to join. Doesn't seem very welcoming. Oh well, to each their own I guess.

Depends what you like Brrly. Our show will have a lot that the Big Show doesn't from what I've heard. We will have 100's of acres to play on and will actually be able to use them. There will be fields surrounding the main show area set apart for mowing, plowing, tilling, etc. If anyone wants to use any equipment we will have a place for it. I can't wait to see all the horses at work. There's more but that's enough spoilers for today...

Let me just say that I was in no way questioning your workmanship. After I wrote that post I looked at several loaders and noticed that (like you said) all are designed that way. Sorry you're having trouble getting it to run right. I'm sure you'll get it working perfectly. I just bought my daughter (14 going on 40) a Sony Handycam so she can video some of my projects when she visits me. It's a great way to spend time together without her getting her hands dirty. lol

A three pronged solenoid does not have a wire going to ground. The solenoid gets ground by being bolted to the frame. Cable from positive side of battery to one side of solenoid. Cable to starter on other side of solenoid. Center post gets wire from the key switch marked S. The fourth wire with the fuse is attached to the post coming from the battery and carries power to the switch marked B.

I did this bearing mod on my 312H. I made a plate, cut off the bearing flanges and welded it to the plate. I then bolted the plate to the sheetmetal. The control rods pass thru it.Here are some pics.

Putting diesel in a gas engine is harmless to the fuel system. Going the other way will make short work of a diesel injection system...... So if the choke is off, and assuming the air filter off, open the throtlle to full on your cable. When the governor arm opens up and the engine sounds like it is overfueling (black smoke) begin adjusting the main jet clockwise until the engine runs perfect. Once you get it running perfect, most manuals have you turn the jet in until it runs rough, then back out (counter clockwise) until it runs rough again, and then go right in the middle for you final adjustment. This always works great for me. If during operation it needs another fine ajustment, then I will consider it. On the idle mixture screw, when the engine is at idle, and you open the throttle full very quickly, the engine should not die down and then pick up. That would indicate you need to turn the mixure screw counter clockwise until it accelerates smooth. If you open the throttle quick and the engine accelerated but you get a puff of black at anytime during this transition, then you need to turn the mixture screw clockwise to lean it out. The air filter element will get destroyed if diesel gets on it. It is bascially an oil and will block the paper from flowing air.