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Hi fellow Wheelers I just completed the fabrication of a Three Point Hitch for my 70"s GT14. Parts List include: 1. Used Wheel horse Rear Axle Bracket to which I added two Class One Hitch Pins with a steel bar welded across (bar was from an old shaft from a bad shock absorber) 2. Lower lift and Center lift bars and center lift arm (purchase from e-bay for $150) Note: One side was adjustable and the other solid, I changed the solid one so that is also adjust so that I could obviously adjust it and also make it fit better by removing a section and welding-in two threaded bolts 3. A twenty inch Class One tow bar from Tractor Supply for $139 Think you'll agree it came-out pretty good. Comments or suggestion appreciated As a side note might someone know what the rear pulley on the GT14 is for..... I assume perhaps the rototiller... but it looks so flimsy for that? Thanks

I bought this rust bucket from John Campbell over a year ago. it had a nice wheel horse high back seat. Worth what I paid for the tractor. It was rusty and had a broken rod. Few weeks ago I decided not to part it out and bring it back to life. a quick sand blast and lots of wet sanding rust pits, its all back together. I didn't have any intention of making this a show tractor. John claims it is now. I have to clean up some wiring and finish the deck and its all finished.

So I just couldn't bring myself to put that ugly Rural King battery in the horse, so I made a cool decal to cover it ... trouble is, you can't see even an edge of it!! grrr Had to do something with the front of the battery box ... looks cool, if it will stand the heat!!

My winter projects are coming along nicely. I wanted to get everything done last fall because it was such a tuff winter last year, and I did. So my winter projects are...sleep late in the mornings, go ice fishing when the temp is in the 20's, light the fire place and watch as much football & basketball as I can, eat a lot of comfort food. I can report that the time line is looking good for a successful winter this year.

I got my raider 10 today I put a rear end in it put a carb on it it fired up second try(forgot to install battery first try lol)has the HH100 tecky.electric PTO.had a electric lift but sadly was missing it I'll find one for it.thing runs and drives great.what's everyone think

All good advice, but they all failed to warn you about the main problem you will encounter if you buy a Wheel Horse. It has been studied and proven, 99% of first time Wheel Horse buyers will contract the dreaded WHA Welcome to the

I tried making my wife a dancing pole with that stuff . . . the burrs made it a disaster Conduit maybe

k so I guess I got it figured out -kinda!

I just got this 502 at last years mid mo meet and greet and it has studded tires on it haven't got to try it in the snow yet but in the garden and on muddy hills its performed great

A update on project A HORSE WITH NO NAME.

Got my winter project mocked up today. It's frame is a1973 no name 8hp. 1967 Lawn Ranger hood stand & front axle & wheels. With a David Bradley Hood. I got a long way to go but I think it will be cool.

Just got ready for the snow, lets hope we don't need it! 16hp kohler,48in. deck and a 3-point

Ran across this site while looking around for some additional info on Starter/Generator and Regulators used on tractors. Maybe not a WH site, but I found it very informational. It actually assisted in saving one of my regulators from going to the "look at later" parts bin. http://www.simpletractors.com/service/electrics/electrical_systems.htm Dennis

Has anyone used studded tires instead of chains? If so did you by the tires with the studs in them or put them in yourself. I just wondered if they work as good or nearly as good as chains. I did see it mentioned in other forums but nobody really talked about the traction they provide. I was looking to put them on a tractor that my sister has I didn't really want to give her one of my chain sets her driveway is almost flat and there is weights on the wheels and I filled the tires.

A friend and I are having a hard time figuring out what the long flexy rod on the top of the transmission is for. We've seen it on many tractors, and have no clue what in the world it is called or what it is for... any help would be appreciated!

The Tecky club continues to grow.

After that comes: W.H.A.S. !!!!

Looks pretty good!

no difference between 91 and 96 tractors the difference is between 89 and 90. eric j

Yep, what both of them said.

I would not pay $350 for any used vertical shaft lawn tractor. If you keep looking, I'm sure you could find a good C, 300, 400, Raider, Charger for the same price. All have horizontal shaft Kohlers and stronger rear drives.

Here's a pic of the sprockets on my blower. All the blowers I have had (6-7) had two idler pulleys. You can see the drive sprocket on the upper right, the auger in the center, and the two idlers on the upper and lower left. It's hard to get a good pic of the inside. Kelly is right, your one idler pulley turns the auger in the right direction, but it only has about 1/3 of the tooth engagement on the auger as the two pulley arrangement.

Now that's some serious hitch.

The easiest ones to find will probably be C series or 300, 400 series. If you get serious snow, not much will beat a 520 with a 2 stage blower on it. That will probably be the most expensive option with the highest maintenance costs (2 stage blower gearboxes, twin cylinder Onan, hydro) If you do a handful of snows (as you are saying) you could get by with any C series, 300, or 400 series with a single stage blower and a snow plow. (Never underestimate the need for a snow plow when the blower just isn't working). I would go with a single cylinder Kohler for the reliability and low maintenance costs if you dont need the big 2 stage. Go for a twin cylinder Kohler or Onan for power/ego factor (i have one, I cant deny its mostly because its cool. Everything I need could be done with 14hp) and you arent afraid of putting a little money into maintenance. Dont bother with the 516 or 518H tractors, the transmission isnt worth it. So all that to say my highest recommendations are: C160 if you like the older style, C-145, C-165, 414, 416 (Kohler single) These should be cheap and reliable 416 (Onan twin), 417, 418, 520 if you want the biggest with a little ego factor (the twins do sound real nice) The debate between Hydro and 8 speed is a long battle, but you cont go wrong either way, each has its strong point. Personal preference kind of thing. All of the frames and basic components on all of those models are EXACTLY the same so really you are deciding between some body work and the engine. Get wheel weights and chains.

Nice job......VERY nice job.Nice GT-14.Love them.I have four or five myself.Whatcha gonna use the 3 point for??

I f you replace the lining on the old disk you won't have the problem. I bought a new disk for my C-120 and wore out a couple sets of clip before I found the problem. I added a thin spacer behind the disk to line up the metal disk with the groove in the spacer.

Sure, you've spoiled 'em.

Thankfully, no images... that title made me nervous.

Don't let Tankman see the picture, he will use them as exhaust pipe tips

It is the cable housing, it is for running a cable through from the rockshaft to the rear for lifting the slot hitch or clevis hitch and or attachments

This may be too late, but worth mentioning, the older briggs twins were offered with 2 different cylinder types; bare aluminum (aka cool bore), or cast iron sleeve. If your block has the bare aluminum cylinders, and it has scratches but is not out of round, or worn too much, you can usully re-ring and reduced the oil consumption significantly. If it is out of round, it may be better to overbore and have sleeves installed. If you are lucky to have the cast iron sleeves, it will be a real easy one to rebore and rebuild. Aluminum blocks as a whole are not a bad thing, they can still be machined. I got lucky to get a 1999 era L-Twin 18HP on my Workhorse GT-1642, and it has the ball bearing crank bearing w/ cast iron sleeves. The downside is I need to tear it down and have the valve seats fixed. It is a very low hour engine, but sometimes you get unlucky. I beleive the failure was from a blown intake gasket.

Its tough to tell from the pics but I dont see the sloted hole for the idler/tensioner on the blower. I was under the impression that some of the older models did not have this second idler. I always thought it was added down the road. I am not near my blower but I beleive it was also pressed inward where the slotted hole is for alining the idler pulley with the rest of the drive. Could be done with spacers I guees if one wanted to add them.

Your drive chain set up is missing a idler, I think the chain is going the right way, but your not getting full contact with the drive gear on the auger, I'll get pics of mine later if no one else does

Zane, those SG's are a lot like you and me. The minute we area born we start to wear out and die. This gradual decline is only a problem if you choose to dwell on the decline and not enjoy the ride. If you lose sleep over the low battery effect on the SG, Replace the battery.

Got an easy 20. I am feeling old.

I have a Sears SS12 with HH120. Solid State ignition died a couple years ago and I replaced it with a conversion from Overnight Solutions. I think it was less than $100.00 and it works great. It's a very smooth running engine.

If I post big pics, when I'm finally done, there will be very little of the "holy crap" factor!! I want to keep you guys panting!! Kind of like foreplay!! LOL

That is kind of what I would like to see in that engine when I finally pull it and take it a part, decksetter. My spare engine now looks like a Wheelhorse 520 engine! It didn't for years with the shrouds and muffler/intake off of it! Need to steal a bolt or two from the original motor and get my 9 pin connector fixed. I have another drive pulley coming from Joe's. I'll use the current PTO that is on the tractor now. Hopefully this weekend we will see how that spare engine idea I had works out!

I thought I was gonna be the first to build a rat rod tractor... Well at least I can watch someone else build one then I wont have to!

I've had that idle bounce smooth out completely after a valve adjustment. I've had multiple engines work their intake valves tight so there was no clearance at all, then the valve wouldn't hold tight against the seat. No wonder the seat pops out after a few thermal cycles without pressure from the valve holding the seat tight in its place.

Probably right either throw it back or use it for chum for full growed ones Couldn't leave it where it was

I'm trying too decide how I want this one to look. First pic is as I bought it, second is the idea stage.. Once I decide on what I really want to do with it I'll tear it all down and put a real nice paint job on it. I might go with the big tires in back with tri ribs on stock front rims painted white? (as the slots are off of my Suburban.) I might go with a different decal idea.,the 855 decals are kinda boring. Oh, and I hope to find something big too stuff under the hood. Maybe an Onan, Kohler twin or a Briggs Vanguard twin. I gotta have at least 18 hp on this one...

Here's my 1257 I built this summer, added 8 speed trans, rebuild 12hp kohler, rebuilt starter generator, new wiring with solenoid. Love mine glad I built it. It's my go to horse. Tom

In my experience, I would have to say that quite the opposite is true. The K-Series is one of the toughest engine out there. The rod is not a weak point if the engine is maintained properly. Old oil, lack of oil, and general misuse will cause any engine to have problems. Sometimes, when someone rebuilds an engine, they will install the connecting rod backwards with the oil hole in the cap pointing away from the camshaft, or they will not torques the bolts tight enough. Other times, in the process of disassembling or reassembling, they will damage the dipper, causing it to break off under load. I currently have 6 Wheel Horses with K-Series engines, and none have thrown a rod in all the hours they have been in service.

let me run a pipe cleaner thru my brain and put on something I can understand https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMqGpuQdIwk

new wheels

Don't know if this has been mentioned. The following 1523 open bearing for the break shaft should be part # b-1210 NOT b-1212: http://www.motionindustries.com/productDetail.jsp?sku=00092728 The chart shows b-1212, which combined with the oil seal, binds the brake shaft. Either that, or you can't get the oil seal on. Hope that helps.