Leaderboard

I know most of you hate the new style idiot proof gas containers with the lack of a good vent when pouring So here are some pictures of what I did to mine. Got the partial idea from someone off the forum. Works great! Drill a hole that matches a valve stem you want to put in. These are pressure fit, so it has to be exact - in my case 1/2 inch. Feed a wire through the hole and out the spout. Take the guts out of the valve stem, attach to the wire and pull up into the hole. Spray some silicone on and attach this to pull it up through, Leave the guts out, put the cap on and remove for pouring. Goes without saying . . .blow out any debris with air so it doesn't end up in you tank. Takes about five minutes

Hey everyone! I finally bought a Techy! Oh, and it came with a tractor! It is a 1969 Work Horse 700, in wonderful shape! I took a two state away trip, but the tractor came with wheel weights, chains, a snowy rear discharge mower deck, and a snowblower and it feels like is has very low hours, it drives super smooth and easy and is very clean for being a 46 year old tractor, the seat only has two little tears in it! The worst part is the rear seat pan is a bit rusty under the seat. Everything seems to work as it should, which is a plus! The motor on it is a "Hurricane" 6.5 hp Chinese Harbor Freight motor, which really runs smooth and quiet, and seems quite powerful. The previous owner said that the original motor ran fine, but was very VERY hard to start, (Which after doing research, seems about right ) so he swapped the motor. The tractor came with the original Tecumseh motor that was on it, the original gas tank, engine mount, air filter/cleaner assembly and ignition parts, and a full new gasket kit for the whole motor! It also came with original paperwork for the mower deck, snowblower and the headlight kit! I have the original headlight kit and plastic non headlight cover, but the muffler of the new engine points straight out of the front of the tractor, and the P/O melted a bit of the original headlight . He was quite upset that he did that, and I felt for him. He was a very nice and kind guy and said that he had a big snowblower on his backhoe and just did not need the tractor any more. I hope that I get to use the snowblower before the end of the season! C'mon Mr. Winter!

Took the 520 with blower out to the pond to get the heavy snow off then used the GT1848 with blade to get a nice surface.

I FINISHED THE 310-8 TODAY,I JUST NEED A NICER SEAT. REPAINTED THE WHEELS,FRONT AND REAR AXLE,FOOT RESTS AND HOOD GRILL BLACK. THE REST WAS SOAP WATER AND POLISHING. YOU GUYS LIKE PICTURES HERE THEY ARE. I THINK I WILL SELL MY 1982 SK486 THAT I BOUGHT NEW. IT IS UNRESTORED $1500

while trying to cobb together a dial indicater with a sparkplug bottom at work to time a h60 my buddy asked what i was building after telling him he said i got one u can have for $10 at home i got in a bunch of stuff from neighbor is that luck or what?????????

Well I got two of the five grandkids out.(14/12),the ice could of been better. The temp got to 35 today and put a just enough slush down to make it not as slippery as nice frozen ice surface. But had some fun then went into warm shop to listen to the games. Sorry to see the Pack lose but what a game the Seahawks had. Here's a couple pics of the grand kids.

I do the same. Sometimes I just fire one up and run it through the field next door. Or if it snows through my yard and over my sandmound a few times. The neighbors probably think I'm nuts driving a deckless tractor all over the yard They then confirm that when I go flying down the road on this

Its a good idea to run them all for about 15 or 20 minutes every week. But of course I'm the worlds worst at taking my own advice regarding this...............................

In my experience, I would have to say that quite the opposite is true. The K-Series is one of the toughest engine out there. The rod is not a weak point if the engine is maintained properly. Old oil, lack of oil, and general misuse will cause any engine to have problems. Sometimes, when someone rebuilds an engine, they will install the connecting rod backwards with the oil hole in the cap pointing away from the camshaft, or they will not torques the bolts tight enough. Other times, in the process of disassembling or reassembling, they will damage the dipper, causing it to break off under load. I currently have 6 Wheel Horses with K-Series engines, and none have thrown a rod in all the hours they have been in service.

What else does a retired guy hafta do with his time but make movies! We Got slammed w 18" last night Chucked this morn and probably will later this Eve. Nothing like more seat time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQKNiU3fOD4&list=UU7wuEBq4kYyHz0ytg3WDv2g

This particular tractor was purchased "just to get me through winter plowing" while I located a new engine for my 520H. I don't know who had it before WHfan74 but Scott cut me a deal and Tom hauled it my way on one of his trips through Indiana. It ran so nice and I found it a very capable machine the more I worked it. Most of you are collectors and I've had my fair share of them over the years but this one really surprised me. I put a 48" deck under it and it cut my lawn with 1/2 the fuel my 520H. Even if the lawn got away from me in the spring it still did a decent job in tall grass situations. I have bad shoulders so I converted the front end to the forward swept axle and gear reduction steering. I put the 8.5" 520H rear rims on it to match. Being a huge fan of the hydro I didn't like the ground speed so after some reading I purchased a 5.5" hydro engine pulley from Kelly. 2nd gear hi and 80% throttle works perfect and I saved additional fuel and got the job done 15 minutes sooner. My ***ONLY*** dislike it reverse is to fast and you really have to watch it. I just plowed some with it today and took a few pictures of it. The charging system works perfectly. This is now my favorite Wheelhorse I've owned since I've started.

I would be good if you could post some pics of both. Based on your information I recommend you purchase the 308 because it runs. As BooVuc said, you can always drop in a 12hp engine if you need more power. I have swapped a 12hp Kohler into a 310-8. If possible, try to make a package deal including the C125. If its in decent shape, try to get it running or you can upgrade the wheels and tires from the C125 to the 308. If the seat on the C is good and the seat on the 308 is bad, you can swap that too.

SAVE YOUR WHEEL HORSE FENDERS FROM SCRATCHES OR DENTS The best way to keep your Wheel Horse fenders from experiencing scratches or dents from the metal seat hitting the fenders from a weak spring or heavy load is to raise the seat. Here is what you can do to lift the seat off the fenders and give yourself a little more leg room and peace of mind! You need the pipe spacers in the center of the rectangular steel pipe to hold everything in place. Neat trick you buy a 2 1/2 by one inch metal tube (rectangular). Cut about 4 1/2 long. drill two 5/16 holes to match metal seat holes (carriage bolts) and put pipe spacers cut to go in rect. tube between carriage bolts and you are lifted off the fenders. Place this on top of the spring. Kind of hard to tell in my photos but I placed a foam block on end with a reflector too

c125

I was in a bar last night for awhile and it wasn't empty or wide. (Some of the patrons were pretty wide though). I use Chrome and Internet Explorer 11 and see no corruption of the homepage screen. If your using a Windows PC and your using Explorer, go to the little "Gear" icon or if your using a real old version, click whatever gets you to the link "About Internet Explorer" and tell us the Version Number you have. Under help, you should be able to see a link that says "update Internet Explorer". Can't help you on an Apple or an Andriod tablet.

Williams Grove Speedway (Dillsburg, PA...45 minutes up RT 15 from G-burg).....Super Sprints Friday night......Sportsman, Late Model, and a special Midget Class Race on Saturday..... Sprints turn the 1/2 mile track in less than 20 seconds.....midgets like 2 seconds slower.....but they are fast and wingless..... http://www.williamsgrove.com/divisions.htm http://www.williamsgrove.com/schedule.htm If you have an interest in racing and never attended a Sprint/Dirt Track circuit race.....the sound, smell and feel is pretty intense..... Midget Specs.....,1075 lbs W/ driver....400 HP....bout the weight of a decked out C-160 with wheel weights.... ARDC Engine size: 4cylinder Fuel System: fuel injection Horsepower: 350-400 Speed: 100-120mph Power Train: Quick change rear Weight: 1075 with driver Steering System: power Cost $ 20,000.00

Thanks James.. Yep the extra width will help with stability which can only be a good thing Thank you Sir Thanks Jerry, here's the next update to keep you going... I hope to have enough video footage tomorrow to string another video together, so keep ya eyes peeled for the next vid maybe Wednesday.. Not much to report, I have made a rather big washer.. Which will become the new center for this wheel.. Which with some holes drilled will be able to bolt on the new front wheel hubs.. Here's one of them in it's "before being cut up" state.. This wheel won't be fitted, but while I had it to hand I thought it would be too good a photo opportunity to miss It's not a JD wheel, it was just painted the wrong colour at the factory The time had come to cut one of the centers out... The wheel is slightly too large to fit on my lathe, but it will fit on Nigel's lathe with a few tweaks.. A bit of chain drilling and chisel work later.. The inside of the wheel had some extra cutting to make the hole a little larger.. And on the lathe the wheel went. The inside taking shape. A few hours later... And to finish up this small update, a groove being cut in one of the new centers. This will center the new center in the rim

YOU COULD ALSO DO WHAT I DID.... MY VERYFIRST WHEEL HORSE.. SAT APART 5 YEARS WHEN I PUT IT BACK TOGETHER,,,I DIDNT REALIZE I PUT THE SEAT SPRING AND TOOL BOX ON BACKWARDS... EVERYTHING FIT... I DIDNT HAVE A LIFT CABLE AT THE TIME,,THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN MY CLUE.. IT TOOK SOME ONE ELSE TELLING ME... KINNA LIKE WHEN YOU ZIPPER IS DOWN,,,ONLY KINNA ..... WORSE.. LOLOLOLO AND THE SPRING ON BACKWARDS..... THE SEAT NEVER TOUCHES THE FENDERS.......EVER

Well I had some nice weather today so I cleaned up the electro 12 took the rear fender and tool box off to give the hydro trans a good cleaning and engine shrouds this thing was probably the dirtiest one I've had yet but everything seems to work good hydraulic lift is nice also changed out the hood the one that came on it had been ran into something pretty hard here are a few pics didn't have time to put the seat back on

i guess i'm odd man out, i've never figured it was that hard to get the pin in and out of the flag i think i use a pair of needle nose pliers but never thought of it being that hard to do. i thought it harder to hit the hole in the lift tube with the flag mounted, but like i said i guess i'm odd man out on this eric j

Thanks to a fellow member and another fellow I met from Fulton county, I got great deals and I will be ready to start the garden in the spring... Question is do I hit them up with original brinly color paint or match them to the horses that are going to pull them? I'm normally a purist with this stuff but figured I would get the clans perspective as I'm liking the red idea.

On a couple of previous 520's that I replaced that connector, I took it one step forward and got a extra HD 2 prong for those 2 wires that overheat the connection and wire it besides the new 9-pin, 2 pins I don't use. My $.02

Congrats!!! What a great find.

Here's my 1257 I built this summer, added 8 speed trans, rebuild 12hp kohler, rebuilt starter generator, new wiring with solenoid. Love mine glad I built it. It's my go to horse. Tom

Nice score! I saw that one listed and I was tempted myself. The only reason I didn't go for it was I didn't know he had the original engine! That one will clean up real nice... The excitement of dragging a new one home never wears out..

Did you see my message?

Looking good!

Lol Ed I wasn't talking about that good lookin plow, that stays like it is but the other two need something to help them.

Well then Christopher the choice for me would be easy. Purchase the one that runs and drives. That reduces the stress factor if you need a working tractor now. You will be looking at spending close to $100 plus your time in replacing a carb and battery (plus little stuff) in the C125 just to see if it runs. Then there is the work to be done from that point to get it running well.

I never have but when I was growing up the neighbor always used his WH to clear the snow on the pond. My brothers and I use to wear old boots and hang on the back of the tractor while the neighbor drove around in circles. Great fun.

OK, now I have somethng else to add to my "Bucket List". In 24 years of owning and driving Wheel Horses, I have never once given thought to driving one on a frozen body of water like a pond, lake or river!!! Threads like this are another terrific reason for being a membr of Red Square! Thank you kiotikin for starting this thread and posting some great pics!

I havnet got a clue that's a good question their 857 horse

Well checked the battery first and it drops all the way down to 5 volts or so when I turn the key.......looks like I'll be looking at batterys. Any thoughts on minimum cca for good winter starts? Also would a bad battery have any affect on my s/g rate of charging? Thanks Much Tom

:handgestures-thumbsup: I swear that it's not what it looks like! First tractor I got to bring home in my new truck! :) but because of the new truck, I think this is the last tractor I'll bring home for a while. :teasing-whipyellow:

Work on 520-HC is coming along. Foot motion control is installed along with new bushings throughout. Made new front axle kingpin and installed. Steering is now nice and tight. Dash and gauges are installed. Wire harness is awaiting the new 9 pin connector before being installed. Engine has had heads pulled , all carbon removed, valves set. No wear at all in the cyl. bores. Engine has also been cleaned and de-greased on the exterior. Once new 9 pin connector is installed, engine will be re installed. Cleat

I have a 314-A, 314-8, 314-H, 520 and a 1968 raider 12 and i like them all. My wife wants me to scale back but i can't make myself sell them off. It really is a sickness!

Nice job! Looks like lots of seat time too.

If the battery tests OK , measure the voltage drop from the positive battery lug to the power terminal of the starter.. Make the measurement while the starter is cranking. Good wiring will show very little voltage drop (less than 0.5 volts). Poor wiring will show several volts dropped and therefore slower cranking. You can perform the same measurement on the ground wire from the battery to the starter case. This process will allow you to tell if the poor connection is in the positive wiring or the negative ground wiring.

Before you tear anything apart, measure the battery voltage AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS while cranking the engine. If the battery dips below 10 volts, strange things can happen at the starter.

If you have a voltmeter, just measure the voltage drop from the battery lug to the Generator terminal on the SG. I understand these illustrations do not show an SG system, but the concept is identical. Make the measurement while the SG is cranking. Good wiring will show very little voltage drop (less than 0.5 volts). Poor wiring will show several volts dropped and therefore slower cranking. You can perform the same measurement on the ground wire from the battery to the SG case. This process will allow you to tell if the poor connection is in the positive wiring or the negative ground wiring.

Another hobby of mine is building electronics and electronic systems of all sorts. I've cobbled together all sorts of wire, cables and connectors for those activities. From that experience, I don't think the wiring harness on the D250 would be all that difficult to build yourself. I'm lucky, in that most of the wiring on my D250 is in relatively good shape. But I do have a couple of shorts that seem to cause the occasional lighting flicker. I've already begun to look at the possibility of replacing at least some of my wires on that tractor. The wires in my '76 D250 all seem to be 16 or 14 AWG "color coded" wires for the 8 amp circuits, or the '70's metric equivalent of these US sizes. The terminals are all crimp-type spade or push-on (the flat guys) connectors. These all can be found at the likes of your favorite auto parts, hardware (HD & Lowes for sure) and RadioShack or Best Buy. With this, you can simply replace one wire at a time, with the existing wires and the diagram as a reference. Unlike the autos of today, these tractors don't have a true cable harness with Molex connectors, but rather a collection of wires zip-tied together. I've learned a couple of tricks for automotive type wiring: I like the crimp terminals with heat shrink wrap for a permanent connection. They do well to protect the copper wire coming into the connector. I don't recommend using a flame to shrink, heat shrink. It will often melt the wire jacket. A hair dryer or heat gun are best. Crimp twice and tug. Make sure the connector doesn't slip off with a solid tug. "Bundle" wires where you can, once they are all flowing in the same direction. Zip-tie down any individual wires through their path, every 12-18". Rattling wires can be incredibly annoying. The same stores I mentioned sell sheathing that you can either wrap around a set of finished wires, or feed them through and zip-tie or tape the ends. This does a few things: - makes for a nice clean compartment, with wiring - provides added protection from the elements - keeps one wire from getting loose and finding it's way into moving parts While you're replacing wires you may also want to consider replacing the original fuse block with a new one. Generic ones are available at the auto parts store for less than $10. That will give you the opportunity to switch to the type of automotive fuses we use here in the US, which are much easier to come by. If you feel comfortable with a wire cutter and a crimper, you should have little trouble replacing the wires. Good Luck! ~Greg

I took this little guy to a news years day show and it received lots of attention

Great progress Ian, I love the look of this project. Can't wait for the next update. Thanks so much for the videos. Thanks for sharing.

like it ian, good to see even little bits happening, she is wide but that will held will some stability james

Its always exciting when another one gets dragged home!

Nuther one jumped on the trailer this morning. Any guesses? Man, that's not much of a clue. Maybe this'll help.

Nope. Had to cross three state lines so had a little bit of a ride. Here it is. It's going to work with me and gonna fire up our steam Jenny and give it a proper cleaning. Then when I get home it'll get some compound and wax to see how it really looks.

?

D 250 with Ark loader Had to put a new pump on it. Remember guy's don't use Hyd oil in them PO did burned the loader pump up. It;s for sale kinda lol

I don't have a loader but I do have a Johnny Bucket Jr. like this ... (not my photo below) I've used mine on a 310-8 but I'm going to switch it to either a 416 or 520 for the extra weight. I picked it up for $200 on Craigslist and it looks practically brand new.